I read the book, and from my recollection, Beck was left to die, but willed himself to get up and stumble down the mountain....where he was then tended to.
There was a search on the Col during the storm. Beck was part of a huddle of lost climbers. The ones who could walk went back with the rescuer, but Beck and a Japanese woman climber were left for dead.
Beck miraculously awoke and stumbled, literally, back into Camp 4 just a 100 yards away.
They thought he was still going to die but lasted until the storm broke and, since he could walk, they made the descent that saved his life.
Yes, that's what I meant....that's how I remember it.