I have the same mixed feelings. While it will be a very sad event for the Church and the world, it would be a unique experience to stand in the square and watch for the puff of smoke after each vote. On the other hand--everyone in the world will be there. I'm glad I've got my hotel nailed down!
I have a vague memory of a new pope in the fifties, and the smoke from the ballots coming out wrong. Everyone thought a pope had been elected due to the white smoke but then it turned black and everyone was confused.
Does anyone remember this?