I should explain something farther...
Tha article on working the gas rod said it was necessary only to take .010 off the face of the gas rod where it goes over the nipple, to keep it from slamming into the shoulder of the nipple mount. I found I had to take like .030 and maybe more, but then ran into another problem. Now the nipple bottomed out in gas rod. So, being the brave soul that I am, figuring worst case, I need to buy new rod and nipple, I took about .040 or .050 off the tip of the nipple and all worked well.
I just kept working it until the locking lug contacted the receiver and there was still clearance between rod and nipple.
I was hoping that a side effect would be to slow the cycling down just a hair so it wouldn't toss my brass 30 feet away, and it did tone that down a bit too. Now I only have to walk 15 feet to get it. :)
You did good.
My story is a little like yours. I created a stop for the op rod so the it wouldn't slam into the barrel. I then screwed the gas cylinder directly onto the stock. That stabilized the barrel so when it heated, it wouldn't be forced upward. The problem was the barrel still needed to be supported a little more so the end was still vibrating. I didn't glass bed like you did so I still need to do that. I also took about .030 off the face of the gas cylinder but it wasn't enough like you said.
I did a lot of trial and error until I read that article.
To tell the truth. I just gave up on it. I did learn that my reloads for my AR didn't work. The twist on the Ruger demands a smaller bullet. I think they have to stay at 55 grains.
I know I can get five round groups on it. It's after that things get stupid.