This article displays what she thinks of women, even more than what she thinks of men. She thinks women, particularly homely or overweight women, are so despicable that "the best night of their lives" was when they had sex with a stranger who happened to be a baseball player.
Both Ms. Dowd and the people she's describing are sad and pitiful beyond words.
I think she's just angry because she was never anyone's "road beef", imported or otherwise! (Being Michael Douglas' road beef doesn't count - ugh!).