I remember my first experience with the ocean (I'm from Wisconsin).
I ran into the surf (maybe 3 or 4 foot waves). I'm about 400 pounds, the first wave picked me up and slammed me down, thank you very much.
My wife has a picture and thinks it was funny, but I got some skin left in the sand.
I have a lot more respect for the ocean.
On a clear bright day in Florida, when I go to the beach and I see whitecaps on the waves, I avoid them. The calmest most innocent looking waves knock me around VERY easily. I got scared a couple times from just one small wave...they knock me right down and I can see how easy it is to drown.....they are STRONG. I can't imagine how powerful a constant wave could be.