Those that play in the ocean should be familiar with their surroundings and understand the ocean. When the entire coast line is breaking all at once far out it is time to get the hell off the beach. I started surfing at age 30 and found out the hard way how to judge the surf and waves until I learned from experienced locals. It was clear from these photos that at least some people knew what was coming and others did not. At sea level the waves are breaking near @20 feet or higher with a 10ft. plus or higher tide behind it pushing in and breaking along the entire beach as the tide first was low and way out before the waves began to break hard with the rushing tide. From the distance the wave moved as the woman ran it was moving very fast @75mph or better.
According to the paper she survived along with her family. The waves broke enough that the tide must have been low enough for them to manage escaping to higher ground.