Setting the table for the new year

Madison Capital Times & Wisconsin State Journal ^ | 12/31/03 | Lesley Rogers Barrett

[Holly_P]

Growing up on Madison's South Side, Robert Pierce remembers the traditional black-eyed peas served every New Year's Day. <

"It's a tradition that (goes) way back to slavery," Pierce said. "It's supposed to bring good luck." <

Pierce, an African-American organic farmer in Oregon, has continued making the traditional dish once prepared by his grandmother and mother and served on Jan. 1. <

"My mother made sure we always had the black-eyed peas," Pierce said. <

Traditional food on the first day of the year often varies with region and ethnicity, said Ruth Olson, associate director of the Center for the Study of Upper Midwestern Culture. <

The Dutch eat doughnuts, believing the ring-shaped treat is symbolic of "coming full circle" and brings good luck. Pork is a common New Year's food, with the thought that it brings good health. <

Along with the Southern tradition of black-eyed peas, eating greens - collards, kale, turnip - symbolizes money and it is thought to bring good fortune. The peas and greens are often combined with rice to make a good fortune New Year's dish called Hoppin' John. <

"I would have to be in a coma or on my death bed not to cook black-eyed peas and pork on New Year's Day," said Topf Wells, who grew up in Little Rock, Ark., and is chief of staff to County Executive Kathleen Falk. <

A food connoisseur, Wells said he carries on the Southern family tradition. He never uses canned beans and likes to include several different cuts of pork. In honor of his move to Wisconsin, Wells said he "always uses a bottle of beer in there." <

An Italian tradition is to eat lentils on New Year's Day, said Bonnie Miller, food ways coordinator at Dodgeville's Folklore Village. <

"The tradition is that it will bring good luck throughout the year," Miller said. <

Eating fish for luck on Jan. 1 is another custom. Olson remembers celebrating the new year with oysters - an exotic treat growing up in northern Wisconsin. <

"It was rich," Olson said. <

Olson said traditions are often started for several reasons - the food might be easily available or affordable, or it's a typical ethnic food. <

But it's how the traditions are maintained over the years that's important, she said. <

"They may change a little, but they are passed down generations," Olson said. <

In Scotland, the New Year is called Hogmanay, and black buns - a fruitcake baked weeks in advance - are eaten. <

In Spain, some people eat 12 grapes as the clock strikes midnight, one with every toll to bring good luck in the months to follow. <

Pierce, who makes a barbecue alongside his black-eyed peas, said the traditions of holiday food are important to continue. <

He'll cook this year for his extended family including his four children. <

"We've always had black-eyed peas," Pierce said. "I hope my kids keep doing it."

[ijcr]

Perhaps I am not Southron enough...I cannot handle Hog Jowls. I would rather chew one of my dog's pig's ears.

[Rhetorical pi2]

Pork Chops, blackeye peas, rice and potato salad are the most served dishes on New Year's Day by Southern families.

I've never known anyone who had "Hog Jowl".

After the celebrating the night before, having the bloody mary's and country ham biscuits for breakfast, it feels good to eat the plain, wholesome tasting food.

Then it's on to the beer and chips and dip for all the ballgames.

Atkins Diet begins Monday morning. :o)