Posted on 01/22/2020 5:27:02 PM PST by Attention Surplus Disorder
all data got that from yoda ;)
good luck with the peoples republic of commifornia..
That sounds better than a previous post that said to touch the neg cable to the positive cable while the positive was still connected to the battery (and don’t worry about the spark!). It might be okay, but I don’t know. (I always search the internet for many solutions and then go with what I think makes the most sense.)
I finally solved a problem in our Hyundai - it was going into the “stall” mode for some reason. I had worked on the safety switch between the brake and the gear shift and got the computer confused.
I was almost going to give up and take it to the dealer, but I persisted and tried various things to no avail.
Finally I figured it might just be a confused computer. To reset it they said to disconnect the negative terminal and wait a few minutes. Then step on the brake pad to dissipate any built up charge in the system (as it tries to light up the brakes I guess?).
Then within five minutes to connect the battery again and start the car. (Darn - their might have been something about having the car in neutral or something?).
I never had such a new car (2018), and the computer will relearn how you drive - and maximize the performance for your style (slow city, sporty city, highway, etc.)
Speaking of smart cars, I see on the 2020 Hyundai Sonata they have a thing where you can drive into a narrow parking spot, back out, get out of the car, and then have the car pull forward into your spot again so you don’t have to mess with the narrow spot! I think it probably would work to just back out of a spot, if someone pulled in after you and crowded you in.
Just a thought after reading run requirements. Make sure your thermostat is working right as well as the sending unit.
Somebody could put a 170 degree t stat in it. too low temp would not meet run requirement of 176 degrees. Or, it could be not quite working right and dash gauge appearing to be ok but computer not seeing what it needs.
I would shine my in-fared temp tester on the block by the sender.
At least by clearing the ECM you are starting at a known place.
Over.
I would probably just drive the car for a good while with no license until it works...but, thats me.
Plenty of help on here, but a few more suggestions...
Usually a bad cat will cause drivability issues (poor performance under load/high RPM). At any rate, it can be tested easily.
Test the cat inbound exhaust temp vs the outbound with an IR thermometer (usually under $20 on Amazon or Harbor Freight). If the cat is working, and the required chemical reaction is happening, the outbound side temp should be higher that the inbound.
Also, depending on the camshaft configuration, compression ratio, etc, some cars require AIR/smog pumps. These inject extra outside air into the exhaust to help burn unburned fuel (usually because of larger cam overlap). Problems with these systems (if your car has one) can cause “cat issues”.
Also, all of this is assuming your O2 sensors are good (even though they’re new, I’ve seen bad sensors out of the box - very frustrating). The post cat sensor is the one I’d question if drivability is good.
Outside of that, I’d guess and electrical issue (like many others on here). O2 sensors display voltage on a scanner. This should reflect any ground/short without too much effort.
Last, I don’t know how smog checks work (I live in TX), but is clearing the code just prior to the inspection an option?
Good luck, and sorry you live in California!!
Plenty of help on here, but a few more suggestions...
Usually a bad cat will cause drivability issues (poor performance under load/high RPM). At any rate, it can be tested easily.
Test the cat inbound exhaust temp vs the outbound with an IR thermometer (usually under $20 on Amazon or Harbor Freight). If the cat is working, and the required chemical reaction is happening, the outbound side temp should be higher that the inbound.
Also, depending on the camshaft configuration, compression ratio, etc, some cars require AIR/smog pumps. These inject extra outside air into the exhaust to help burn unburned fuel (usually because of larger cam overlap). Problems with these systems (if your car has one) can cause “cat issues”.
Also, all of this is assuming your O2 sensors are good (even though they’re new, I’ve seen bad sensors out of the box - very frustrating). The post cat sensor is the one I’d question if drivability is good.
Outside of that, I’d guess and electrical issue (like many others on here). O2 sensors display voltage on a scanner. This should reflect any ground/short without too much effort.
Last, I don’t know how smog checks work (I live in TX), but is clearing the code just prior to the inspection an option?
Good luck, and sorry you live in California!!
(sorry for the multiple posts —going to blame that one on my phone!)
I am not an expert, and know nothing of your specific issue, but a ways back I had an error code for a problem, and it turned out to actually be the computer, and not what the computer said the problem was. In a few cases like that, killing power to the whole system for a couple of minutes, and then reconnecting the battery can reboot the system, and temporarily fix the problem, until the error comes back. But if the computer is really far gone, it may not have any effect and the error will still be there.
“.... The post cat sensor is the one I’d question if drivability is good.
As the sensors I bot are aftermarket; and the post-cat one looks a little hinkier than the other others, yeah, I have a mental compartment called “What if all/some of these new aftermkt non-OEM sensors are caca” that I’d rather not go into at this exact moment, but obviously will have to if the indications force me.
“Outside of that, I’d guess electrical issue (like many others on here). O2 sensors display voltage on a scanner. This should reflect any ground/short without too much effort.
I am tending to doubt this; but, at any rate, since I *did* disco the batt tonight, I have to go through the bulk of the relearn cycle which I’ll have to start and work through over the next few days. My scanner is only a larval one, not the 2-way type that reads voltages. I’m gonna do a few things and then pop for a real dealer eval pretty soon here.
“Last, I don’t know how smog checks work (I live in TX), but is clearing the code just prior to the inspection an option?”
No, the smog dudes can detect that immediately. From what I hear TX is not that different than CA stringency-wise on smog tests....or at least the major urban areas are-— the rural areas might be a tad relaxed.
Good luck, and sorry you live in California!!”
It’s been a good 50-year run but it’s so over.
I drive a 20 year old car. Definitely black electrical tape.
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haha. If there is any part of this thread that suggests this process hasn’t been a complete PITA, please ignore it.
I used to play on the CANbus, but I’m not in the mood anymore....have played with the ARINC aviation bus as well. It’s a bit scary messing around with avionics data communications..just one tiny mistake and you get 737MAX-itis.
Most folks I have known that worked ARINC had OCD.
Has it been put on a machine to diagnose it?
Good, This is what I do and own a shop. Here are a couple more.
First, did you have someone just plug in and clear the code system? Some makers have hard codes that stay until they are cleared with a code reader.
A wire could be broken up in the loom going to the system it’s self. I check this by putting a jumper from the correct pin in the computer plug to a ground. Then I ground the sensor cable end terminals one at a time with my tester and wiggle/bend the hell out of the wires to see if it breaks continuity.
But here is the most likely issue. One of the new sensors is actually bad it’s self. You have no idea how many times I have bought new sensors that were already bad. And I have had the auto parts suppliers sell me the wrong sensor number for a certain model. Having a good OBD code and engine/analyzer/monitor could show you this because you can monitor the temps of the sensors to see if they are reading correctly. The computer reads the difference in temps between the upstream and downstream sensors, and if this difference is not within the required parameters it will do this.
Move to a free State.
True, but 20 year old obd and the OP didn’t post the code. Like I said easy to verify with the ir gun.
Presuming you’re conservative (a good presumption, since you’re posting here) the magic bullet is: Move to Texas.
More than strongly considering it!
Have you tried finding a good mechanic to diagnose it? It is probably an electrical gremlin. An honest mechanic will charge an hour for diagnostic and if it is something as simple as a loose or damaged wire, fix it right then and there for no additional charge. At least they should be able to tell you where it is bad and a quote to fix it.
The trick is to find a good, honest mechanic of course.
Twenty years isn’t that old (assuming a rust free CA car) and the mileage is low for a Toyota so it would be waste to throw it away for what is probably a relatively cheap fix.
Your suggestion is exactly what I am coming around to. Pay for an hour of diagnostic time and get the instrumented skinny with the proper diagnostic doohickey. The car is great although obviously nowhere near as featured as modern cars.
Believe it or not; apropos of nothing, when my folks (the orig owners) were alive, they had to rebuild the transmission @ $2.4K. If I told you an upper end Toyota would eat a tranny @ 23K mi you’d probably not believe me, but the mechanic showed me the replaced innards and there were all manner of chewed up metal rings he took out of the thing.
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