Posted on 11/10/2008 7:14:34 AM PST by thefrankbaum
what do you plan on using the rifle for?
Whatever you do, do it quick and beat the rush.
Get something with a medium-heavy 1-8 twist barrel, i.e. capable of using the Sierra 77-gr bullets. Those can do two things the standard ammo can’t, i.e. kill deer and hit things past 600 yards.
You can buy AR’s that are 308. Get one of those.
Emergencies. If I need to actually use it, this country will be in a world of hurt already.
For low cost and reliability, I’d look closely at the Ruger Mini-14 in .223 (5.56)
Well, don’t forget to practice.
Go with the A3 (flat-top, 1913 railed) receiver. Mounting optics to an A2 is problematic and even if you achieve a stable zero, the height over bore is insane.
There’s really no reason to go with the A2 anymore.
I have had both rifles, both an AR-15 and a mini. The AR-15 is far and away better than the Mini-14. I could only see getting a Mini-14 over an AR if cost was a real issue, and there was no other options.
Lower cost? Maybe, slightly. AR mags are cheap, Mini-14 mags can be very expensive.
Reliablilty? Really? The AR has it over the Mini in every way.
Relatively cheap.
Reliable.
Accurate.
Configurable.
Yep.
Only in a ban state would the Mini-14 be an option.
Model 1 makes decent stuff.
However, it’s the upper receiver that really takes the forces of firing and recoil. Investigate what components they’re using in their barrels and bolts. Just like bargain PCs, where cheaper HDDs and memory will drive the price down, so it is with AR components.
Almost any decent lower will work. I have a collection of Colt, Bushmaster and Rock River receivers and, besides age, there’s not much difference between them. I highly recommend the Rock River two-stage trigger and MagPul grips and buttstocks.
WHERE can you buy one today?. Even 80% receivers are backordered.
for these reasons I'm planning on an AK WASR or equivalent.
Make sure you torque the barrel nut correctly. A friend who is a very good gunsmith, and who builds “race-guns” for a number of top competitors as well as the military suggests:
* Torque Barrel Nut to 50lbs
* Back it off all the way
* Torque it to 50lbs again
* Back it off all the way again (the two 50lb torques are done to cut any parkerizing that may be on the threads of the barrel nut and receiver)
* Torque it to 35lbs
* Adjust the barrel nut either way (just a bit tighter or looser) as necessary to align the barrel nut with the gas tube hole
Also, the Rear Takedown Spring Detent Pin Spring can be a bit tricky when you're threading the Buffer Tube Nut on. I used a plastic card (VISA, it's everywhere you want to be) to hold it down so the nut didn't catch so the spring as you turn it and bend the spring.
The gas tube can be tricky, but I run it through from the rear (inside the Upper) and take my time. As long as you properly aligned the hole in the receiver with a flange on the barrel nut it's fine. Other than that, it's pretty much like building a model when you were a kid. Plus, you'll know every part on your gun, and you'll have the satisfaction of having done it yourself. Have fun.
Get an M1A.
I’ve had a Mini-14 since 1978 and had no problems with it at all...Very reliable field weapon, IMO...
I trashed a couple of M-16’s in Vietnam so maybe I have a bias against that weapon...relied mostly on M-14’s and a very nice Stoner 63A most of the my time there...
Confession Time: I purchased an AR-15 in 1980. It was beautiful. Had a periscope stock, half a dozen 30 round banana clips. Just beautiful. Purchased it for $480 through my ships gun club. Sold it in 1993 for $600 to help pay for my Wife’s engagement ring.
You can beat up on me now……..
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