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Posted on 12/30/2004 7:01:16 PM PST by HairOfTheDog
Yeah, the bowel has germs. I think he meant that horses pee all over the place and I could step on something that had been peed on. Too me, if you have a horse with bacteria in the urine you have a sick horse though. I had not read anything about this but thought maybe it was something that I missed.
I think you're right... soo.... you gonna soak your feet in it or not ;~D
Oh yeah.... and she died in the street.
That is really a horrible story!
I ask because I'm putting a 1st aid kit together. I was mad at myself today because I didn't even have anything to clean Sarah Lee with.
No, but I guess I'm gonna wear the damn boots:')
That might cause me to break wind too:')
Horse rectal thermometers are a little longer than most, about 5-6 inches, and might have thicker heavier duty glass for stronger muscles... and they have a string to tie on the end... so it doesn't get lost ;~D
Vets sell thermometers that have a special hole in the top that you can tie a string to and clip on the tail. That's the type you want. That way if they, well, try to suck it in accidentally, it won't get lost "up there"
*snicker*
They've got a kit there you might look at... in the lower right hand corner
It really is a horrible story if you think about it, but it's always been one of my long time favorites. I remember reading Black Beauty and the Black Stallion in one sitting when I was a kid. I have a hardcover beautifully illustrated copy of The Black Stallion at home. My Black Beauty copy is all worn to pieces.
I guess they don't know what's coming and try to close the door:') Can you get them at supply stores? Vets are high. My son went shopping for me. On the list was alcohol, H2O2, cotton balls, q tips, iodine, wipes without scent, and gloves. What else?
LOL.
Oh yeah. I told him to get me a plastic carrying box that I can lock.
Thanks, I can't open it here but I'll look later. Most human kits have just samples sizes and a bunch of over priced fluff you probably will never need.. I have found it cheaper to build my own. Hopefully horse manufactures more practical .
Oh sorry. For some reason I read first aid pack. I guess because I was just talking to Beaker about it. I'll look at it tonight.
I agree... I thought it might give you good ideas on what to put in it. It did have DMSO in it.... which you won't find in human drug stores.
First Aid Supplies Here is a list of basic first aid supplies that will be useful in most cases of injury:
Disinfectant: For cleaning wounds. Always dilute with clean water, according to manufacturer's instructions.nn Apply to wound using cotton wool, always wiping from the center of the wound out towards the surrounding skin.
Antiseptic Swabs and Scrubs: These enable to wound to be cleaned even without access to a water supply.
Wound Powder/Ointment: To prevent new infection from entering the wound. Ointments have some water resistance but are less easily absorbed than creams. Powders avoid the need to touch a wound, but are only absorbed by broken skin. Following cleaning, no preparation should be used on a wound that has yet to be seen by your veterinarian.
Antibiotic Aerosol: For treatment of wounds to prevent infection without damaging tissue. Often colored (eg: blue or violet) to help with targetting. Take care to spray gently from the recommended distance.
Fly Repellent: To keep flies away from healing wounds.
Wound Dressings: To cover wounds without sticking to them and to promote healing. Come pre-packed for sterility.
Bandages: You need to keep a supply, but two would be a bare minimum. They should be 3 - 4 inches wide and stretchy - VetrapTM is excellent for this as it sticks to itself and not to the horse. If you choose to use ordinary crepe bandages, they can be washed and re-used. Any bandage should be applied over either "gamgee" - see below for the definition of this English term, cotton wool wrapped around the leg, or a padded leg wrap, carefully applied to prevent pressure points. Avoid open-weave or felt bandages with no "give" in them.
Elastoplast/Bandaids/Insulating tape or safety pins: For fastening bandages.
Gamgee/Field Wrap: Cotton wool sandwiched between two layers of gauze. Comes in rolls. Cut to shape for padding beneath bandages; also can be used as a pressure pad to stop bleeding. You can get this from your vet, or from an equine supply store. Padded leg wraps may be used, as long as they are well-fitting and do not bunch under the bandage and cause pressure points.
Cotton wool: Include several large rolls. Usefull for cleaning wounds if no swabs are available, mopping up and dabbing on powders. Not suitable for applying dry directly to wounds or for use as padding underneath bandages as it will stick to the wound. Take care to keep clean.
Epsom Salts: For soaking abcessed feet.
Scissors: Must have rounded ends and should be kept sharp.
Tweezers/forceps: To remove splinters etc.
Thermometer: Modern digital thermometers are easiest to read. Attach a string with a clip and make sure you don't lose the thermometer by attaching it to the horse's tail.
Vaseline/petroleum jelly: To help insert the thermometer. Also protects soft tissues from soreness and chafing.
Some Things to Remember Remember that a first aid kit is only useful in an emergency if it is right where you need it. You might want to put together more than one kit - one for the barn, one for the trailer and a small kit containing non-stick gauze and a crepe bandage, to take with you on the trails.
Write down your veterinarian's phone number on all first aid kits. First aid kits are intended only for immediate, emergency action or for dealing with small cuts and scrapes, not for dealing with major injuries or illnesses. When in doubt, call your veterinarian.
Because we give our own shots a lot, our first aid kit has suringes and needles, and in the fridge, tetanus toxiod, penicillen, banamine and a couple of other things.
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