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ON TO IMPORTANT STUFF - FREEPER WITH PERGO/BRUCE FLOORING QUESTIONS
Posted on 10/12/2003 7:24:14 PM PDT by Chancellor Palpatine
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To: Miss Marple
That sounds pretty dog friendly to me. Thanks for the info. :-)
To: Chancellor Palpatine
but would I have to remove the vinyl in the other half? Nope, just make sure you use the foam underlay. You could install the appropriate thickness particle board or plywood underlayment on either side to bring the two halves to the same height after the carpet removal. Be sure to use proper nailing pattern if you do this. A floor levelor (like Fix-all) can smooth over the small gaps and repair damage to the existing vinyl or subfloor.
OR if the two floors don't end up at the same level and you don't want to mess with the plywood, etc. Splice the two laminate floors where they meet using an available matching riser or T bar.
Bridging a considerable gap in the heights with laminate flooring will provide a springboard effect at that location. Hey that might be fun.
To: Chancellor Palpatine
FR NEEDS MORE VANITY POSTS JIM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
To: Chancellor Palpatine
You asked, "am I biting off more than I can chew, and how long an I expect to be at this.
Second, for those who paid for this installation, what was the rate per square foot, and how long were they at it?
The answer to the first question can only be answered by your reply to further questions.
First, are you mechanically inclined? Can you, read instructions and understand what why and how? Can you operate power tools and are you experienced with them? Or better yet; have you ever done anything quite like this before?
If you are mechaniclly inclined and able to follow directions, then I am relativly sure that you can do the installation. And you may well do a pretty good job of it!
However, 600 sq' will take some time, (at least a full day and maybe then some) and unless you are very committed to staying with it no matter how long it takes, I suggest that you bite the bullet and hire a certified installer.
To answer the second part; You may find a "jack leg" installer who can install it adeqately for as little as $1.00 per ft. But I highly reccomend that you contact a certified instlaller, and for 2 reasons.
First, He has been factory trained and must back his installation, and secondly, he will do the job right, because his certification will be on the line if he does not.
The cost is higher for a certified installer, but the peace of mind knowing that the installation is backed by the manufacturer is well worth the price. Hey Brother: You get what you pay for.
Now that I have answered your questions, ( and I hope adaquatly) might I ask you a couple?
Why are you considering laminate for your flooring?
Are you familiar with the drawbacks of the product?
TOPICS
To: Hillarys nightmare
Fairly mechanically inclined, and I will follow directions. Further, I generally understand why things are done in particular steps, and how they work. I'll admit, it is a project I haven't done before.
I've been advised about one particular drawback - but am all ears as to others. I like the notion of the laminate so I can use it in the kitchen area without worry - something I couldn't do with wood. My other understanding is that its more tolerant of abuse from my kids and my dog.
To: Chancellor Palpatine
Mrs. Slim and I just got wood floors upstairs (3/4" prefinished oak by Columbia). We looked at the laminates, but the good ones seemed about as expensive once labor was included. Wouldn't suggest wood in the kitchen.
46
posted on
10/13/2003 6:19:38 AM PDT
by
Tijeras_Slim
(There's two kinds of people in the world. Those with loaded guns and those that dig.)
To: Chancellor Palpatine
get the video from HD. it will show you how to do it.
To: Chancellor Palpatine
You are correct that the laminate is very durable and well suited to high trafic areas and has great dent resistance. But I don't know that you have been told about it's "hollow sound that it makes as somebody walks on it. Some people hate it for this reason alone and the sound deadening underlayment does little to cure it.
I don't mean to discourage you on the product, but I believe that you need to be aware of this, because after you buy it, it's too late! If you complain, you will hear then that its characteristic of the product and that you don't have a problem.
I used to sell the stuff for a distributor. I know of what I am saying. Other than that, it's a decent product.
To: Chancellor Palpatine; hoosiermama
Pergo Select (not Home Depot Pergo) is the best synthetic stuff. It is the best for allergenic people. Pergo Select is new, just came out this summer. It is glueless
The Pergo Select foam underlayment is great stuff and does not sound hollow.
I installed Pergo Select this summer. It is relatively easy to install except for the detail on the edges, where it seems to me to require a bit of cabinetry-quality carpentery detail, esp. around door jambs. I'm using stuff like a grinder and epoxy for that. It's probably a generic issue common to all interlocking synthetic flooring.
I use a sharp 44-tooth skilsaw.
Instead of Pergo molding, we are using Marley molding, to minimize horizontal surfaces which can collect dust, bad for allergies.
I used a hand mitre saw but I suspect a power mitre saw might have been better and more convenient. The hand mitre saw (Stanley) is top of the line, but still seems to leave noticeable gaps at the joints for some reason I haven't quite figured out yet. I fill it with white Borden-glue like wood putty.
49
posted on
10/16/2003 2:06:20 PM PDT
by
SteveH
To: South40
South40 & all...regarding underlayment. I have a "dainty powder room" just off the kitchen/living room area. It used to have carpeting but I pulled that up and it has 12 x 12 "tiles" (rubbery, Formica, glued-down?); 5 rows x 3 columns worth. Under that is cement.
Whenever anyone used the "dainty powder room," sound - ahem - travels everywhere. You cannot have a gathering and not get to know your guests more than you want to know them.
Would Pergo and the underlayment solve that problem? The room only has sink, mirror & toilet...would Pergo withstand powder room traffic/accidents/pets? Or, would something else work better for sound & clean up issues in a small but very noisy area? TIA!
50
posted on
05/17/2004 9:35:32 AM PDT
by
hummingbird
("If it wasn't for the insomnia, I could have gotten some sleep!")
To: hummingbird
Carpeting, with its soft, sound absorbing surface would cut down on the noises you describe. Tile or wooden floors would not. Make sure you have a limited gap under the door. Close whatever's there with weather stripping.
51
posted on
05/17/2004 2:05:27 PM PDT
by
South40
(Amnesty for ILLEGALS is a slap in the face to the USBP!)
To: South40
Good point about limited gap under the door...hadn't thought of that! Thanks!
52
posted on
05/17/2004 2:34:16 PM PDT
by
hummingbird
("If it wasn't for the insomnia, I could have gotten some sleep!")
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