shoot the paper, adjust turrets to the bullet hole.
lather rinse repeat
His recommendations are pretty similar to the method I figured out on my own. 1, Remove bolt and bore sight on target at 25 yards. 2. Fire one round. Make any necessary adjustments to align everything in the vertical dimension. The fired round should be an inch and a half low if the bore is in alignment with the barrel, if this is the case when you move to 100 yards it will still be a bit low. If it is dead on you will shoot a bit high at 100 yards. 3. Move to 100 yards and adjust appropriately in both dimensions but you should be less than an inch off horizontal and a couple inches off vertical, at most. Move the crosshairs to the hole, the scope doesn’t change where the rifle shoots. Fire one three shot group before moving and one three shot group afterwards. That should be it, seven rounds.
Gave a sack of the projectiles to another FReeper to mess around with.
“Yeah - once I can put a bullet through the same hole at 20 yards I know I'm good at 200 yards to hit the silhouette. (I'm taking into account a bit of bragging.)
1) never begin your sighting in session at 100 yards. Start at 25, move to 50, then to 100. And know your load’s holdovers (hold unders, really) at 25 and 50 for a 100 yd zero.
B) aiming the crosshairs at the fired bullet only works if you own a lead sled. If you’re shooting off of a bag rest, you need to estimate the number of clicks and shoot at the bull again.
iii) don’t zero with cheap ‘target’ ammo then expect your premium hunting ammo to match zero. After you rough-in your zero with range loads, spend the money and fine tune your zero with your preferred hunting load.
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