Below is a 3/4" BSPT to 1/2" NPT adapter that is still warm. It's in Taulman Nylon 230 which means it can be printed at 230C, which is about all the XYZ Pro is capable of.
Sorry for the fuzzy image. The threads are actually quite good.
Posted on 08/08/2019 9:38:43 AM PDT by amorphous
Added! Enjoy!
Guys? I’m stepping away from the ‘puter for a while. Any more will be added when I get back...
That’s funny!!!
Sorry to ask such basic questions but,
1. What does being on this Ping List do for me?
2. I’m very new to 3D printing, but I had an idea to print out a kind of gear which I will describe, but I cannot understand how it would successfully print. So, for the sake of explaining, imagine you wanted to print a small wagon wheel. It has a circular interior hub from which spokes extend to an exterior, circular wheel. The spokes attach to the centerline of the hub and wheel. I can visualize how the hub and wheel would print, but the spokes are suspended above the printing surface, so how would I print such a shape? You could attempt to print it vertically, but it still wouldn’t work for some of the spokes, the ones that extend laterally.
Now if I can just get the damned thing to print the coffee.....
When you read this, bear in mind I’ve been in manufacturing forever, but am not yet a 3D printer user, so this may just be all bs.
In molding, you have to design in flow paths for the resin if the shape of the part isn’t adequate, that get removed later. Similarly here, you might need to put little risers to support the spokes (maybe not full length, you can probably freespan a little), and trim them off later.
Another application for 3D printing is to make molds for the real parts, or a positive of the part which is then used to make a one-shot or a durable mold. (This is informational, to give you new perspectives on how to use 3D, not that it really helps in your scenario)
moved from wanhao to creatbot dx.
v. happy.
Print it horizontally with thin support structures for the spokes, or vertically with none of the wheel spokes exactly lateral. You should be able to position the wheel so that each spoke is at some angle, other than parallel, to the printing bed.
Your wagon wheel will print with support material under the spokes … you remove the support material after the job is complete
Will check it out, thanks!
See #28
Below is a 3/4" BSPT to 1/2" NPT adapter that is still warm. It's in Taulman Nylon 230 which means it can be printed at 230C, which is about all the XYZ Pro is capable of.
Sorry for the fuzzy image. The threads are actually quite good.
Add me as well...thanks.
How’s your results with nylon? I’m printing model battleship detail parts (turrets, etc) in ABS at 255 degrees on my Prusa, and it’s going well, but I might be interested in nylon if it was user friendly/durable/etc.
(If not, I’ll just stick with ABS, it seems to get the job done.)
As for the ping list, count me in, if I’m not already.
Please add me to this ping list as well. Thanks!
bricks--
May I be added too, please? Thank you in advance
Futurama reruns still on the Comedy Channel many mid-mornings - like tomorrow for instance.......
You could get an aftermarket printhead, a few different nozzles, and a seperate camera for a fraction of the cost.
I have an Airwolf3D printer similar to the one in the “2 cups, 1 girl” photo posted by null and void. I ‘upgraded’ and saved enough to buy parts for a second much larger printer. 1m^3 is it's potential range but I don't have a heated bed that large.
@ agatheringstorm
One way is to split the part in 2 and melt together with acetone. (if using ABS)
Nylon can be difficult to work with, but is much stronger and more flexible than ABS or PLA.
Items I printed in ABS, like pads under furniture feet tend to break and not last long. Nylon is strong and lasts forever. A problem is that if you print with support structures you will spend a lot of time cutting it away. A bonus is that you can die it different colors after printing with clear nylon.
I’ve got them all on DVD. Just wish Groening was still making more episodes.
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