Posted on 09/03/2007 8:59:58 AM PDT by oneolcop
Just a question about BSA scopes
I'm particularly interested in the 3-10x44mm Catseye Riflescope, 1/4 MOA, European Reticle model. Any help would be appreciated
Bump, I’m curious about them too.
What caliber rifle are you planning on mounting this on?
I haven’t decided yet. I plan to hunt elk with my ‘06, but I like to shoot long-range with my Bushy E2S. I thought I’d keep my current scope on the ‘06 until after hunting season, then switch it over and try it on the Bushy.
Correct and consistent eyeball alignment will make up for a lot of small deficiencies within a scope. That and range practice will bring what I might determine a cheap, dollar wise, scope into being classed as a personal favorite scope.
Using good mounts, lapping the rings, not over torquing the rings and high quality ammo should set you off to a good start.
Have fun!
Thanks for the input. I was wondering about what specifically makes a scope “good” or “bad” I know light transmission has a good deal to do with it. What are your thoughts on that?
I appreciate quality optics as does anyone, but I'd settle of less in that area, and not worry about fogging and broken reticles.
I've been happy with my "L" scopes for many years, and I have great respect for the old Weaver K series.
BSA's prices are certainly inviting though I hear very little about them.
I have a 20X Unertl that, back in the days when my eyes were good, I swear, you could see the wake turbulence of a honey bee landing on a wildflower at 500 yards. It is the most sensitive scope I ever owned. The heat waves rising from the ground made it worthless for varmit hunting after 10 AM.
The light transmission on that scope is perfect. There is no flare -inside the tube reflections-, everything comes right to the crosshairs and then to the rear lens. When assembled, the front of it has a tube, probably six inches long that screws onto the end where the lens cover goes. The owners manual cautions you not to touch the inside of the tube, contaminate it with body oils, in other words.
Now that scope is good on a sunny day because of the long *glare* tube, Remove the tube and it is a whole different scope. Now there will be some flaring, the crosshairs aren’t quite as sharp. Aim it 180 degrees away from the sun and it changes again. The crosshairs are clearer, the flare is gone, etc. On a cloudy day that trick won’t work.
So, as you can see there are many variations that the scope manufacturer has to think about when assembling a ‘new model’. No one scope is going to be good for all conditions.
If you are making long range shots, take a small dull green canvas cover with you to drape over the end of the scope. By sliding it backward or forward you will be able to *adjust* the light transmission affecting the lenses and the crosshairs.
Well that’s my 2 cents. Isn’t worth much, but I’ll share it.
One of the hardest things you can do to a scope is bring it from a nice warm house out to a cold truck, then from a warm truck cab to the cold morning air. Ot take it from the direct sun into an airconditioned truck.
I don’t care whose name is stamped on the tube, they aren’t built to withstand repeated temperature shocks and remain perfectly aligned.
Longevity for rounds in the .308/06/.270 range is almost endless if you treat them like the high tech, sensitive equipment that they are.
Anytime you have to realign your scope and you are using the same ammunition, ask yourself if you have been treating it like a crowbar. If not then it may be time to send it back in for a lens calibration. Something is coming loose inside the tube.
I appreciate you guys’ comments. I’m tempted to try the scope I mentioned above because it has a lifetime guarantee. I just wonder what qualitative differences in scopes. I guess for a hundred twenty bucks or so I can find out.
In scopes these days you generally get what you pay for. Last I’d heard, BSA has stopped using plastic lenses. Myself, I prefer to use scopes at least as valuable as the rifle, but these days with my eyes I need all the help I can get.
Yep.
You get what you pay for.
BSAs are getting better. i’ve got a 4x on my .22 and a red dot on my shotgun. they work just fine for field rifles- but i probably wouldn’t even consider them for any long range shooting.
I have a BSA air rifle scope on my light shooting Beeman R7. After about 300 rounds, the vertical sight adjustment stopped working. I’m looking for a new scope and won’t consider BSA.
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