Asus RT-AC68U
This is the router I currently use. It has beamforming on both the 2.4 and 5 GHz frequency ranges for very long range operation.
Posted on 11/11/2016 9:48:17 AM PST by newfreep
I personally would not use a modem/router combo. We had nothing but problems (netgear) with ours, especially when trying to connect multiple devices.
We use the Arris 6190 modem and added a netgear nighthawk router. No issues since and we have at least 15 devices that connect to it.
Just my opinion, but if you wanted to stick with the combo, Netgear is overall a good brand. I would choose dual-band.
This is dumb, because if you CAN use the 5 GHz signal, you should. It's much less crowded. He is doing this to simply prevent a follow-up service call for people that don't understand the difference.
It also depends on the remote device. Unless it's a newer one, it's unlikely it supports 5 GHz.
But, if you find a dual-band device only works with 2.4 GHz, you can configure it to only connect via 2.4 GHz.
Can anyone explain “Dual-Band” technology and if its only required in Uber-Fast setups?
i.e. Netgear’s 2 models I referenced...
300mbps
300=300 mbps
ooops....
that should be:
“300 mbps” vs “300+300 mbps”
Whatever you choose, make sure to check against this list:
We did have an sb6141 which is rated to over 300mbps, but TW caps it at 100.
Here is their list of approved modems:
https://www.timewarnercable.com/en/support/internet/topics/lease-or-buy-modem.html
It's not "required" at all. But, if you have a 5 GHz device, you would probably get better service.
2 bands - 2.4 ghz and 5 ghz.
2.4 is lower and more crowded, but the signal reaches out further.
5 is higher and less crowded, but the signal strength is not that great, so it won’t go as far in your home.
never buy your own all in one Modem/Router (unless you buy the isp one to avoid the lease cost)
the problem is even time the ISP upgrades the Modem side spec you out of luck
get from the isp just the modem..one Ethernet port out.. there should be no lease charge.. then when they upgrade they just replace that side without you incurring cost
Then get your own wifi router
With a single person, you don’t need the 300mbs Wifi to access a 6-10mbs internet service.
I recommend you NOT purchas a wifi modem. Use what TWC puts in their box and pay the extra $5 per month, inclusive of maintenance, support and replacement if needed.
A novice should not put themselves in a position where they have to know about this stuff.
"Dual band" is unlikely to matter for you, but on the wireless side, dual band is pretty cheap. It does NOT make any setup "uber fast," take it or leave it. I went for it because it is ubiquitous in the more modern wireless router hardware.
I have a netgear 600 modem and it’s great.
Do your homework and you’ll find that there are multiple channels that are bonded together. More channels, more speed.
Always go separate. You can upgrade one without the other.
Netgear routers are great, I have a Netgear triband AC router and it’s more than I need which is good.
I also have 5 ROKU’s 2 phones, ipad, and you will be surprised how much wifi you really need.
Use wired connections wherever possible. GBit Switches are dirt cheap from Monoprice so you’ll never run out of ports.
You can run one wire to the Entertainment Center, get a cheap switch and plug tv, receiver, roku satellite into the switch. It’s really cheaper than buying long Cat6 wires.
Cat6 wires are really easy to make with a couple of cheap tools. Don’t worry about what color goes in which slot, just make sure both ends are the same.
TWC is charging $10/mo for the modem.
Certainly, from a long-term cost perspective purchasing is a better option.
If the modem software/firmware is “upgraded”, would not purchasing a new modem at that time still be the best pathway?
“Certainly, from a long-term cost perspective purchasing is a better option.”
No, it’s not. $10/mo is cheap when considering upgrades, support and replacement of failed units.
Pay the $10 and smile.
I’m in the network business, have been for years. I would pay the $10 and do with AT&T uVerse. It’s cheap at twice the price.
I bought my first cablemodem 10 years ago (still have it - it works fine), and it was NEVER the bottleneck. The software has been upgraded from DOCSIS 2.0 to DOCSIS 3.0, but that difference (which I did upgrade to, what the heck, $45) made no difference in my network performance. I upgraded more as a guard against equipment failure.
Actually, the maximum power transmitted into the antenna is the same for both bands: 1 watt. The maximum radiated power (EIRP) for 5 Ghz is greater: 53 dBM vs. 36 dBM for 2.4 GHz.
You can raise the EIRP for 2.4GHz with additional antenna gain, but must lower the input power to the antenna, limiting the maximum EIRP to 52 dBM.
http://www.afar.net/tutorials/fcc-rules
I think what you meant is that the 5 Ghz signal is more heavily attenuated (reduced) by obstacles like walls. So, equivalent 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz EIRP will have different effective ranges in a typical house.
Asus RT-AC68U
This is the router I currently use. It has beamforming on both the 2.4 and 5 GHz frequency ranges for very long range operation.
Yes
This is generally true, with one proviso:
If you live in an area heavily saturated with WiFi signals (or anything transmitting on 2.4 GHz), the "faster" 5 GHz band has less interference, and therefore better service -- even at the lower throughput rate.
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