Re: herb sorbets
Posted by: “Neal”
I have made a number of different herb sorbets. Two of my
favorites are strawberry-lavender and rosemary-grapefruit.
There are several methods you can use. The hardest is to
use an ice cream maker, following the manufacturer’s
directions. The next method is to make your base and put
it in the freezer. Every so often, stir mixture to help it
freeze more smoothly. The easiest method is to freeze most
of the mixture, reserving some of it in liquid form. When
the frozen portion is solid, cut it into chunks and put
them in your food processor with a bit of the liquid
portion. Process until smooth, adding more liquid if
necessary.
The second method of freezing and stirring will yield a
sorbet could be called a granita. There are 70 recipes for
granitas and 167 recipes for sorbets at www.epicurious.com.
You could add an herb to most of the ones that don’t have
an herb already.
Here’s one for a granny smith, ginger, and basil granita:
Neal O’B.
Raleigh, N.C.
http://herbsociety.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
5a. Re: herb sorbet, part 2
Posted by: “Neal”
For a small batch of sorbet, Donvier makes a small ice cream
maker. I see the 1-quart one for sale at Amazon.com, but
there are also smaller versions available. It’s a simple
container that you freeze in the freezer overnight. When you
are ready to make the ice cream, you pour the chilled liquid
into the maker and use the handle to stir the liquid every
two to three minutes until the mixture has hardened. It’s
really simple to use.
I bought mine at a yardsale. The Donvier ice cream makers
were a fad back in the ‘80s. You may also be able to find
a cheap one at a thrift store or on eBay.
Our newspaper had an article about gourmet popsicles this
week. It had a good tip about tasting for sweetness, and
knowing that when frozen the mixture will not taste as
sweet as it does when liquid.
There are links from the article to four recipes for the
popsicles—and you could adapt them by adding herbs as
desired. Lemon and mint, grape with thyme, mango with
lemon verbena, etc.
Neal O’B.
Raleigh, N.C.
http://herbsociety.tripod.com
________________________________________________________________________
May our roots always run deep and may our branches keep stretching to the sun
To visit group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/AnHerbGarden/
At noon today San Luis Obispo County Fire/San Luis Obispo County Unit of CalFire announced that the duty chief is ordering all fire apparatus to be parked outside their respective stations until tomorrow.
This no doubt relates to this morning’s M4.4 earthquake. I wonder if this is routine or not.
Typically right after a significantly felt earthquake the fire service will move their apparatus outside their stations in case a large jolt is soon to follow.
However, this announcement comes 6-1/2 hours after the event and follows a M4.4 event and not something larger.
Is this routine for a quake this size or has some information been sent from the USGS to Cal EMA and on to CalFire suggesting something out of the ordinary with this seemingly mere aftershock to the San Simeon Earthquake of 2003?
Kim Patrick Noyes
Atascadero, CA
—
Check out http://groups.yahoo.com/group/californiadisasters/
http://www.grillin-n-chillin.net/
Nut Candy
3 cups sugar
½ cup thin cream or milk (canned milk is ok)
If milk is used add small lump (1 tablespoon) of butter
1 cup Karo syrup
1-cup nuts (black walnuts if possible)
Cook sugar, syrup and milk until candy forms a soft ball in water. When the mixture starts to thicken use a teaspoon to remove a small amount and place that into a dish of water. When you can roll it into a small ball the candy is cooked.
Remove from heat and allow it to cool. When it is partly cooled began beating the mixture with a large spoon and beat until thick, adding the nuts while you are beating. Pour into a buttered baking pan and allow to completely cool. When cool cut into squares with a buttered knife.
D. M. Simpson
Walnut-Apple Stir Fry
8 mixed variety apples (green, red, etc.)
½ pound butter (2 sticks)
½ box brown sugar
1-package walnuts (about 6 ounces)
Remove the apple core and seeds and slice the apples into ¼ inch thick slices.
In a large wok or deep skillet over medium to low heat melt the butter then stir in the brown sugar. Stir in the walnuts then the apple slices. Cook until the apples are tender, remove from the heat and serve.
fried spaghetti or spaghetti pancake
2-4 eggs (depends on the amount of pasta, they egg mixture needs to thoroughly coat the pasta)
salt
pepper
Tabasco
cooked spaghetti pasta
In a medium-mixing bowl beat the eggs, salt, pepper and “Tabasco” to taste. Add the cooked pasta to the eggs and thoroughly mix. Allow to sit a few minutes then mix again.
In a medium to large frying pan heat a small amount of olive oil. Add amount of the egg-coated pasta to form small pancakes. Cook until brown, remove and enjoy.
927 links, not checked.
http://www.grillin-n-chillin.net/links/ThemeIndex.html
[One of my favorite sites/catalogs....granny]
RICHTERS HERBS
357 Highway 47
Goodwood, ON L0C 1A0 Canada
Tel. +1.905.640.6677 Fax. +1.905.640.6641
Herb plants, seeds, books, dried herbs and more – Richters is your best source for everything herbal!
Richters Herb and Vegetable Seeds
Richters Herb and Vegetable Plants
Richters Dried Herbs
Richters Fluid Extracts
If you grow your own herbs or make your own herbal products, or if you are in the business of herbs, make Richters your destination.
Richters has been growing and selling herbs since 1969. Our first catalogue dedicated to herbs came out in 1970. We have lived, worked and breathed herbs ever since.
If you are in the Toronto area, come and visit our greenhouses and gift shop.
Come Visit Richters
http://www.richters.com/link.cgi?linkno=077&cat=Crop%20Production&cart_id=5917710.7099
Crop & Food Research [BROAD sheet] Number 29 March 2001
Rose - Rosa damascena
‘Trigintipetala’
The fragrance of the rose flower, captured by extraction, is
one of the most valuable flavour and fragrance products
used. The most common aroma concentrates of rose are
rose oil and rose water, derived from steam distillation;
and rose concrete and rose absolute from solvent
extraction. Of these, rose oil and rose concrete are
produced in the largest quantities. The world production
of these was estimated to be 15-20 t in 1986, with Bulgaria,
Turkey, Morocco, France, and Italy being the largest
producers.
Commercial rose oil production has never existed in New
Zealand. A research programme in progress at Redbank
Research Station, Clyde, is investigating the potential for
rose oil production in New Zealand from the damask rose,
R. damascena ‘Trigintipetala’.
The most common and sought after source of rose extracts is the damask rose
(Rosa damascena). Other sources are Rose-de-mai (R. centifolia), Apothecary’s rose
(R. gallica), white roses (R. alba) and China rose (R. rugosa).
Although roses grow
exceptionally well in New Zealand, the climate of Central Otago, with cold winters
and hot summers, most closely matches the traditional rose oil-growing areas of
the Mediterranean region
Uses
Rose oil is used primarily as a fragrance component in
pharmaceutical preparations (e.g. ointments and lotions),
and is extensively used as a fragrance ingredient in
perfumes, creams, and soaps. The maximum use level
is 0.2%. Rose oil and absolute are also used extensively
as flavour ingredients in fruit-type flavours. Food products
in which they are used include beverages, frozen dairy
desserts, sweets, baked goods, gelatins, and puddings.
Reported use levels are generally below 2 ppm and are
thus in minute quantity.
New Zealand Institute for Crop & Food Research Ltd
A Crown Research Institute
Environment
The damask rose enjoys heat, water, and high fertility, and
under these conditions it flowers well. Roses can be
successfully grown on a wide range of soils but they do
best on well-drained soils, with a soil pH of 6.0-6-5.
Adequate water is essential throughout the vegetative and
flowering periods, and where irrigation is needed, basal
watering, such as drippers, are favoured as they avoid
wetting the flowers at harvest time. The frequency of
watering depends on the porosity of the soil and the
seasonal weather conditions. Roses are gross feeders
and enjoy high fertility conditions. Fertilisers containing
nitrogen, phosphorus, sulphur and potassium are needed
for high flower production, and the chosen fertiliser
dressing should relate to soil analysis. In the
establishment year a multi-analysis fertiliser such as
Cropmaster 15 (15-10-10-7) is a suitable dressing at rates
of up to 500 kg/ha. Annual soil tests will aid future decisions
for fertiliser and lime needs.
Establishment and management
In general, roses are grown on rootstocks to improve their
vigour and flower production. Rosa damascena
‘Trigintipetala’ will grow from cuttings, but overseas trials
have shown that flower production is lower than from plants
grown on rootstocks.
The production block of Trigintipetala at Redbank was
established with plants budded on R. multiflora stock.
Dormant buds (budded plants where the bud has not yet
started growing) were used, rather than grown-oil plants,
to help reduce costs and establish the crop in the field as
soon as possible. Some failures, where the bud does not
take, must be expected using this method.
Where large numbers of plants are ordered through the
nursery trade, at least one year must be allowed for the
propagator to grow sufficient rootstock and bud the
required number of plants. Budded stock can be planted
into the field in early spring. Plants should be spaced 1.5
m apart within rows, and 3.0-5.0 m between rows for vehicle
access. As the plants begin to grow, the establishing bud
and extending new growth are vulnerable to wind break. A
previously established wind shelter around the production
area will lessen this risk. As they mature, the plants form
hedgerows up to 2 m in height and have good wind
resistance.
No flowers are produced in the establishment year. The
summer damasks only flower well on mature wood and
pruning requirements are minimal. The production block
at Redbank was left unpruned, and flower production levels
continued to increase over three seasons as the plants
grew in size. Under Central Otago conditions there has
been minimal incidence of pests and disease, and control
strategies for pests such as aphids have not been
warranted.
Harvesting
Trigintipetala flowers during November and December in
Central Otago. The flowers are picked into sacks as early
as possible each day on the basis of flower maturity. A
flower is picked as it reaches full bloom and unopened
buds and flowers are left for subsequent picking. The
number of flowers ready for picking each day and the total
weight of flowers harvested is variable and reflects the
daily climatic conditions of the season.
Picking is extremely labour intensive. Although there is
variation in picker efficiency, plant size and flower density,
the best pickers have not exceeded 6 kg of flowers/hour,
and typically the average is closer to 3 kg of flowers/hour.
At 2.5-5.0 g/flower, this represents 200-400 flowers/kg. At
Redbank Research Station, the crop produced 5.6 kg of
flowers/plant in the third flowering season. This equates
to a total flower yield of around 9.2 t/ha at a density of 1650
plants/ha. The picked flowers should be chilled
immediately to prevent heating, and distilled as soon as
practical.
Distillation and yield
The finest and most powerful rose perfume is the otto or
attar, which is a product of steam distillation from the rose
blossom. When steam is the extracting medium, the
traditional system has been to undertake hydro-distillation
with a boiling mixture of rose flowers and water, and the
steam condensed and collected. The waxy constituents
of the rose oil that float upon the water are decanted off
while the water is transferred to a more efficient still and
distilled again to recover any remaining oil. These oils are
combined to make rose oil. The agitation associated with
boiling prevents the rose petals from forming a compact
mass that steam cannot penetrate. At Redbank, perforated
trays covered with thinly spread rose flowers within the
charge vessel have been used with direct steam
distillation, and the problem of the flowers coagulating to
prevent steam entry is avoided. While distilling, the
condenser temperature is held at 45EC to prevent
deposition of the waxes in the condenser, and at a specific
gravity of about 0.85 the oil constituents sit on the water
surface. Unfortunately, however, owing to the loss of
phenyl-ethyl alcohol, a large proportion of which remains
dissolved in the distillation water, the otto does not
accurately represent the flower odour. An oil yield of 0.01-
0.02% (0.1-0.2 ml oil/kg flowers) was achieved in trials at
Redbank Research Station. Around 5 t of flowers would
be needed to produce one litre of rose otto.
Solvent distillation is now more frequently used to extract
the aroma of rose blossoms. The product of solvent
extraction is a waxy, light brown, semi-solid material, known
as a concrete. This material contains phenyl-ethyl alcohol
in the same ratio as the blossoms. A typical solvent is
hexane. Rose absolute is prepared from the concrete by
extraction with alcohol. The absolute is a reddish liquid
with a typical rose odour. The phenyl-ethyl alcohol content
of its volatile portion is 60-70%. Typically, solvent extraction
yields about 10 times that obtained by steam distillation,
in the order of 0.1-0.2% (1-2 ml concrete/kg flowers).
Chemical composition and description
Rose oil is a colourless or yellow liquid and has a
characteristic odour and taste of roses. At 25EC it is a
viscous liquid. Upon gradual cooling it changes to a
translucent, crystalline mass, which can be liquefied by
warming.
Although rose oil is a very complicated mixture of more
than 100 different components, the major component
recovered from the blossom is phenyl-ethyl alcohol. The
other main components are rose alcohols geraniol,
citronellol, and nerol. Many other components are present
only in trace amounts but are very important for the overall
quality of the oil. An example is the compound
damascenone, which is an important odour constituent
and is only present in minute amounts. As noted, phenylethyl
alcohol is a major oil component, but because of its
solubility in water it is usually lost in the distillation waters
unless collected as rose water. This alcohol is, however,
present in the absolute extracted by solvent.
Prospects for New Zealand
Meeting the quality criteria for the market is critical when
producing an essential oil. A commercial sample is
needed to test the market and evaluate opportunities for
sale, and to ensure that the oil or absolute meets the
market standard. Preliminary evaluation of rose otto from
Redbank by professional perfumers was very favourable,
but further testing and confirmation of its acceptability to
the market is needed.
At present, top quality rose oil sells for around NZ $10
000/kg on the wholesale market. It takes 5 t of rose, flowers
at Redbank Research Station to produce one litre of rose
oil by steam distillation. Irrespective of other costs, the
Contacts
www.crop.cri.nz
Invermay
Malcolm Douglas
Crop & Food Research
Private Bag 50034, Mosgiel
Tel. 03 489 0673
Fax. 03 489 0674
Email douglasm@crop.cri.nz
wages for picking are a major cost and have a dominating
effect on the economics of production. It is worthwhile
noting the major producers of rose oil or absolute are
countries with very low labour pay rates. For this reason,
the investigation of mechanical harvesting methods is
warranted.
Because of the nature of the industry and the need to meet
quality standards, it is imperative that production
investment begins on a small scale. Product quality must
meet market requirements and returns must cover
production costs for production of rose oil to become a
viable industry in New Zealand.
Further reading
Guenther, E. 1952: Oil of rose. In: The essential oils. Vol 5.
Kreiger, Florida, USA. pp. 3-48.
Lawrence, B. 1991: Rose oils and extracts. Perfumer and
Flavorist 16(3): 43.
Merry Marigolds
By Harvest McCampbell
The name “marigold” originally belonged to several early blooming English plants; two that may be familiar are calendula and marsh marigold. These plants were often in bloom during the Feast of the Annunciation of Mary (March 25). In the early days of this celebration these spring flowers provided gold color to Mary’s celebration, thus they came to be called Mary’s Gold, which was later shortened to marigold.
Today, when we think of marigolds it is the bright, frilly, yellow, orange, and gold flowers that belong to the Tagetes genus that are most likely to come to mind. These Mexican natives bloom in yards and gardens through summer and fall here in Northern California. Like the marigolds whose name they borrowed they are sacred to the Native people of their homeland. Since pre-Columbian times Aztec Indians associated these flowers with celebrations of their beloved dead. The scent of marigold was believed to form a spiritual path that the souls of deceased family members could follow. The flowers were much used for decorating graves, alters, especially during the holiday that is now called the Day of the Dead. Over the centuries the lines between the ancient and modern religions have blurred; Mexican marigolds are now just as likely to be associated with the Virgin Mary as the original calendula and marsh marigold.
Rich with history and color, marigolds will soon be available in six packs at nurseries and garden centers. They like lots of sun and can be planted out as soon as the danger of frost has past. There are a number of varieties of marigolds available, some going by names such as African and French. These names were developed by the nursery industry to make their offerings seem more exotic and sophisticated, as if marigolds did not all ready have enough mystique of their own.
The African or Aztec Marigold (Tagetes erecta) is not only bold and beautiful the flowers are considered medicinal. These plants grow up to two feet tall and their sturdy yellow flowers are excellent in arrangements. The non-hybrid form commonly sold as Cracker Jack is rich in the anti-oxidant “lutein.” Lutein is considered especially helpful for protecting the eyes from the ravages of sun and aging. Marigold flowers were once routinely fed to chickens because the lutein content gave the yolks and the chicken skin a rich color. Research on dietary supplementation with lutein and on the amount of lutein present in marigold flowers is still in progress. However, if you decide to give your Cracker Jack marigolds the taste test, tossing them into an occasional cup of tea or adding them to a salad is not likely to hurt a thing; people have been eating them for thousands of years.
French marigolds (Tagetes patula) produce small colorful flowers on neat compact plants. The flowers are available in shades of orange, bronze, maroon, and yellow. Popular with fans of heirloom flowers, these are the ones that have that strong marigold scent you may remember from Grandma’s flower bed. Modern hybrids and cultivars have been developed to minimize that characteristic marigold scent, but for organic gardeners, the stinkier the better. The smell is caused by a chemical known as “a-terthienyl;” it lends a natural insecticidal property to these small marigolds. Many organic gardeners use French marigolds as companion plants to reduce nematode damage. Nematodes are microscopic worms that can build up in the soil under certain conditions. When their infestation becomes severe they can damage crops and reduce garden yield. There have been studies that show that French marigolds also reduce infestations of cabbage worms, while at the same time they attract beneficial insects to the garden.
Mexican or sweet marigold (Tagetes lucida) is sometimes sold as Mexican or Spanish tarragon. In the kitchen it is used as a seasoning anywhere its sweet spicy flavor will bring advantage. While most marigolds have fancy lacy or scalloped leaves, Mexican marigold has narrow willow shaped leaves. These plants can grow up to 3 feet tall, if they are happy, and they often produce single bright yellow flowers late in fall. Like all other marigolds, they will not make it through our winters and must be replanted every year.
Spring seems to have sprung! Any time now you can start checking out local garden centers and nurseries for a selection of colorful marigolds. They can be tucked into the garden in any sunny spot. While, like most plants, they will do best if they have some nice loamy soil to sink their toes in, they will adapt to most any soil you have to offer. They do need to be kept evenly moist for the first 3 weeks after planting. After that they will survive occasional benign neglect. Keep an eye on your marigolds though, if it gets too hot and dry they will show you their need for water by looking sad and droopy.
Once your flowers have begun blooming you will have to decide if you want to “dead-head” so your plants will produce more flowers or if you want to let them produce seed for fall and next spring. If your plants are hybrids the seeds may not be worth saving. Many hybrid marigolds do not produce fertile seeds. Dead- heading involves removing the spent flower heads from the plants. It stimulates dormant buds to grow and produce more flowers. However, if you can’t be bothered with saving seed or with dead heading your marigolds might surprise you by producing volunteers next year all on their own.
Marigolds are also available as seed. The seeds like to be between 75 and 80 degrees to germinate. You can either wait until summer to sow the seed in the warmest spot in the garden or start them a little later this spring in six packs that you bring in at night until the young plants have three or four leaves. If you have a nice warm window, a special heating mat for starting seeds, or another really warm spot you can start seeds now. Just about the time they are ready to plant in the garden, the weather should be warm enough for them to thrive.
Marigold seeds are commonly available almost everywhere seeds are sold. If you have trouble finding the non-hybrid varieties mentioned here check out Richters Herbs. You can find them on line at: http://www.Richters.com or call to request a catalog: 905-640-6677.
That’s all for now, but say tuned, next time we will be talking about some very colorful and delicious beans. Meanwhile you can find me out in the garden getting sun-burnt while I am Digging the Dirt.
Harvest McCampbell’s column, Digging the Dirt, appears in the Hoopa People Paper, the official newspaper of the Hoopa Valley Tribe, located in Hoopa California. Reprinted from The Hoopa People Paper, March, 2007. © 2007 Harvest McCampbell.
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Basils Make Truly a Feast Sublime
From the National Garden Bureau
Whether you say bay-zil, and I say baa-zil, there’s one thing everyone will agree on. Juicy, sun-warmed tomato chunks mixed with olive oil, freshly torn basil and garlic spooned over hot pasta is truly a feast sublime. What’s pesto without fresh basil?
Besides having extraordinary taste, basil is incredibly easy to grow. Not only does it add grace to the herb garden or tomato planting, but the numerous shapes and sizes make excellent additions to a perennial garden, shrub border or container garden. Tuck basil plants into unused garden corners, display them among vegetables, edge a flower garden or plant them as an aromatic groundcover along a path where they gently release pungent, anise aroma when brushed against. Basil even grows fairly well indo ors on the windowsill or under lights.
Smaller basil cultivars make superb edging for the perennial border or vegetable garden, or handsome foliage contrast in containers of flowers. Plant a large maroon-leafed basil between ruby lettuce and leeks for a splash of rich color. Cinnamon basil and orange-scented geraniums in a sunny container radiate the scent of warm orange-cinnamon rolls. Use basil as a foil for bright annuals or summer-flowering bulbs in pots or baskets.
Seed racks and catalogs are filled with amazing varieties. There are sweet, scented, Italian, Thai and Greek basils, each with a different leaf shape and flavor.
Most edible basils are cultivars of the species Ocimum basilicum. The smooth-leaved types that grow two to three feet tall are the best-known for culinary use. There are also highly perfumed crinkly-leaved and ruffly-leaved varieties, all of which make superb pesto and double as smashing focal points in the landscape.
Opal basil’s deep red to purple leaves display a striking color contrast to green, gray and blue-leaved plants in the perennial border. Culinarily, they make beautiful soft pink sorbets and vinegars. Although their flavor is superb, be cautious abo ut using them in delicate-colored foods such as chicken or white cream soups — their color may lend a dark purple or gray color to food, not very appetizing by most standards.
In contrast to the large types, the tiny-leaved basils produce small, 6” mounds and are unmatched as edging plants. These small globe basils have a delicate flavor that is best used fresh.
For an entirely different taste, try a scented basil such as cinnamon, anise or lemon. Holy basil, a different species than culinary basil, is a sacred herb in the Hindu religion. Like many of the other scented basils, its fuzzy leaves are used for tea .
Thai basils, fairly new to the American market, have deep maroon-tinged leaves on purple stems and whorls of intense purple flowers. Although the concentrated anise flavor may overpower all but the strongest foods, this is one of the most beautiful for use in the landscape.
Basil asks for nothing more in the garden than full sun and well-drained soil. It grows quickly from seed, giving you plenty of basil by seeding after the last frost in late spring. Basil thrives on warm weather and is frost sensitive, so don’t get impatient and sow your seeds too early. Wait until the soil is warm.
Harvest basil just as the flower buds begin to form, when the leaves contain the most concentrated oils and provide the best flavor and fragrance. Once the plant begins to expend energy in flower and seed production, it loses some of its potency.
Cut or pinch basil just above a leaf or pair of leaves, removing no more than a quarter of the plant. This leaves plenty of foliage to keep the plant healthy and looking good as a landscape plant.
Simple air drying produces tasty basil for use all winter. Rinse the leaves in cool water and gently shake off extra moisture. When thoroughly dry, tie a handful of stems firmly into a bundle. Place the bundle in a paper bag, gathering the top of the bag around the stems and tying again. Label and hang the bag in a dry place where the temperature doesn’t get above 80 degrees (an attic or garage is ideal). After two to four weeks, the herbs should be dry and crumbly.
To oven-dry, place leaves on a cookie sheet and put into a 180 degree oven for three to four hours, leaving the door ajar. In the microwave, heat the herbs on a paper towel or paper plate for one to 30 second intervals for a total of one to three minute s. Turn or mix as needed until dried.
Once basil is dried, store it in an airtight container in a cool, dark cupboard. Keep the leaves whole if possible to preserve the oils, and crush or grind only when using them.
To retain just-picked flavor, freeze basil in water or olive oil. Put a handful of washed leaves in a food processor or blender with enough water or oil to make a slurry. When processed, pour into ice cube trays, make sure each cube has enough water to cover the chopped leaves, and freeze. When frozen, turn out the cubes and store in a well-labeled freezer container.
Basil vinegar is a staple in many kitchens for salads, sauteing and marinades. Simply fill a jar with washed leaves and pour cold cider vinegar over them (use white vinegar to take advantage of the beautiful pink color of opal basil). Tighten the lid a nd set in a warm pantry or on a sunny windowsill for 3-4 weeks. Then strain the vinegar into decorative bottles and add a sprig or two of fresh basil for decoration.
To grow basil indoors in winter, find a spot that receives a few hours of sun each day or use fluorescent lights. Plant seeds in porous potting soil and keep moist. The basil plants will not get very large or sturdy, but if you clip them regularly and plant seeds every two weeks, you will have fresh herbs to add to soups, pasta or pesto all winter.
© 1998, National Garden Bureau, Inc.
Index for herbs:
http://www.richters.com/link.cgi?cart_id=5917710.7099
http://www.richters.com/link.cgi?linkno=197&cat=Crop%20Production&cart_id=5917710.7099
Astragalus, or Milk Vetch, a member of the Leguminosae (Legume Family), includes many species that grow around the world. There are several which are native to Saskatchewan, although none of the native species are grown commercially and some (such as locoweed) are known to be poisonous, particularly to livestock.
Chinese Milk Vetch, Astragalus membranaceus, is native to China, where it is known as Huang Qi or Huang Ch’i. In the past decade, it has become a popular medicinal plant in North America and has recently been planted in Saskatchewan.
The Plant
Astragalus is an herbaceous perennial that appears fully hardy in Saskatchewan. The multi-stemmed plant grows to about 1 to 1.5 m in height and has alternate, compound leaves composed of 12 to 18 pairs of small leaflets. Mature plants have yellow pea-like flowers in long clusters during early summer. These are followed by seedpods growing up to 15 cm in length. The roots are rhizomatous, black with a yellow core, have a peculiar odour and a sweetish taste.
Medicinal Uses
Astragalus has recently come into prominence in North America for its medicinal properties, but it has long been known in traditional Chinese medicine to invigorate vital energy and strengthen resistance to disease. In China, the dried roots are frequently sold and are boiled along with other herbs or even chicken broth to prepare a tonic or medicinal soup. The roots are used for their immunostimulant, antimicrobial, cardiotonic and diuretic properties. Because it increases production of white blood cells, it has been found useful in therapy for cancer patients who have undergone chemotherapy or radiation. It has also been used for treating chronic diarrhea and reducing blood pressure, and for treating the common cold. Astragalus root contains polysaccharides (astragalans), saponins (astragalosides), flavonoids, phytosterols and essential oil, as main compounds. Polysaccharides and saponins are believed to be biologically active constituents. Astragalus has been marketed as dried roots, ground roots in tablets and capsule form, liquid extracts, or as a component in herbal teas. Use of flowers and foliage has also been reported, but documentation of their value is lacking.
Propagation
Astragalus is propagated by seed. Seeds typically germinate in two to four weeks, and germination rates of 50 to 60% have been experienced locally. The seeds benefit from scarification and soaking in water overnight before sowing. Planting can be done in fall or early spring, directly in the field. Seeding in greenhouse plugs has also been successful, provided deep containers and well-drained media are used. The plants are somewhat prone to transplanting shock. Transplanting should take place before the plants become rootbound in their containers.
Culture
Limited information is available on the culture of astragalus in Saskatchewan. The plants are adapted to deep, alkaline soil and need very good drainage and full sun. Although drought tolerant, astragalus should receive reasonable moisture for good yields. Fertility requirements are thought to be low. A sowing rate of 6-8 kg/ha for direct sowing, or 3-4 kg/ha for transplants, is recommended. Plants should be spaced about 25 cm apart in rows 75 – 100 cm apart. During the summer, astragalus requires cultivation to control weeds, and minimal irrigation. As yet, pests have not been a problem in Saskatchewan. In wet areas, plants may develop root rots. Young seedlings are especially susceptible. Greenhouse plugs have been susceptible to spider mites.
Harvesting and Drying
The roots are not harvested until the fall of the third to fifth year. When mature, the roots can be more than a meter long. They are dug by hand or machine. Lateral roots and the crown are trimmed off, then the main root is cleaned and partially dried. They are then sliced into 0.5 cm slices and dried further. This may take 7 to 10 days. Dryers at temperatures below 40ºC may be used to accelerate drying. Root yields of 7000 kg/ha have been recorded elsewhere.
Marketing
The market in North America is just developing, and growers should look for potential buyers well in advance. There are currently no buyers of astragalus in Saskatchewan. In 2006, the price of dried root was around $5.75/lb. for certified organic product, but prices can vary considerably from year to year and may decrease as growers become more plentiful in North America. Asian markets generally rely on local product. At the present time, this crop should be planted only on a limited scale because of relatively low prices and limited markets.
Related Plants
* Astragalus mongholicus (or A. membranaceus mongholicus) is also called Huang Qi. In China, it is used for the same purposes as A. membranaceus and may be mixed with it.
* Astragalus chinensis, also called Chinese Milk Vetch, is known as Sha Yuan Zi in China. This species is grown for its seeds rather than its roots. It has not been grown in Saskatchewan.
* Astragalus complanatus is also grown for its seeds, and is used in traditional Chinese medicine to improve liver and kidney function and visual acuity. At present, it is not being grown here.
* Astragalus chrysopterus, A. floridus, A. tongolensis and A. adsurgens are other species that may be used medicinally in China.
Written and edited by:
Crop Development Branch, Saskatchewan Agriculture and Food
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Papaya Growing in the Florida Home Landscape1
Jonathan H. Crane2
Scientific name: Carica papaya L.
Common names: Papaya and pawpaw (English and Spanish), malakor, loko, ma kuai thet (Thai), and du du (Vietnamese).
Family: Caricaceae
Origin: Lowlands of Central America and southern Mexico, possibly West Indies (Caribbean). Center of diversification southern Mexico to Nicaragua.
Relatives: Mountain papaya (Carica candamarcensis Hook.f.).
Distribution: Throughout the tropical and subtropical world; in protected culture in cool subtropical regions.
History: Papaya was taken to the Caribbean and Southeast Asia first and then spread to India, Oceania, and Africa.
Importance: Papaya is a major commercial crop throughout the tropical and subtropical world and exported widely to areas where production is not possible. Florida has a small commercial industry.
Invasive potential: Carica papaya has not been evaluated using the IFAS Assessment of Non-Native Plants in Floridas Natural Areas (IFAS Invasive Plant Working Group 2008).
Description
Tree and tree types
Giant arborescent plant to 33 ft (10 m)tall; generally short-lived although may live up to 20 years; usually single trunked, no secondary growth.
Leaves
Leaves are palmately-lobed and short-lived, 6-8 months.
Flowers
There are 3 basic tree types, male plants, female plants, and hermaphroditic (bisexual) plants. Fruit is normally only produced from female and bisexual plants.
The inflorescence is a an elongated (25-100 cm long), branched cyme in male plants and a much reduced cyme for bisexual and female plants. Papaya is a polygamous species with 3 basic plant types. Male (staminate) plants, in which small, tubular, yellow flowers possessing only 10 anthers are held in cymes at the ends of long peduncles. Female (pistillate) plants with large yellow to whitish flowers which possess a large, superior ovary which is held on a much reduced cyme in the leaf axils along the trunk. Bisexual (hermaphroditic) plants possess perfect flowers held on a much reduced cyme in the leaf axils along the trunk.
Fruit
Papaya fruit is a berry with a thin, smooth exocarp (peel) and thick, fleshy mesocarp surrounding an open cavity containing many small seeds. Fruit may be globose, ovoid, obovoid, and pyriform, 7-35 cm long, and 0.250-10 kg in weight.
In addition, some plants may produce more than one type of flower and exhibit different degrees of male or femaleness. This may be triggered by temperature, changing day length, and soil moisture availability. Female plants produce medium to large round-shaped fruit of good quality and a large seed cavity. Bisexual plants produce small to medium elongated fruit of good quality and a smaller seed cavity. Male plants with bisexual flowers may produce a few, elongated, poor quality fruit.
Pollination
Papaya plants may be self-pollinating (bisexual plants) or cross pollinated by insects or wind. Pollinators include honey bees, wasps, midges, thrips, surphid flies, and butterflies.
Varieties
There are numerous varieties of papaya. However, very few are available to most urban residents because of the seeds are not commonly for sale in small amounts. Important varieties in the U.S. include ‘Red Lady’, ‘Maradol’, and various Solo-types.
Climate
Any climatic factor such as cool or cold temperatures, lack of water (drought), high constant winds, or shade will reduce papaya growth and production. Papaya plants grow and fruit best in areas where temperatures remain warm to hot (70°F-90°F; 21-32°C). Root growth is best if soil temperatures remain above 60°F (15.5°C) and slow or decline below that temperature. Papaya plants are not tolerant of freezing temperatures and are damaged or killed below 31°F (-0.6°C). High temperatures above 90°F (32°C) may cause flowers to drop, and low temperatures below 59°F (15°C) may inhibit flowering or cause misshapen fruit. Well distributed rainfall is required for best plant growth and fruit production. Any non-favorable weather conditions may lead to a reduction of plant growth and fruit production.
Papaya plants are susceptible to wind damage and will not establish or grow well in continuously windy areas. Papaya plants with a large amount of developing fruit are very susceptible to toppling due to high winds. Therefore plants should be planted in wind-protected areas of the landscape.
Propagation
Papaya is mainly propagated by seed, but tissue culture and rooted cuttings are practiced to a limited extent. The sex of the plant is determined by its parents.
To propagate by seed, remove the seeds from an elongated ripe fruit and place in a colander. Press the seeds against the side of the colander to break the sarcotesta (sac) surrounding the seed (this sac inhibits seed germination). Rinse seeds thoroughly and place on a paper towel to dry (not in the sunlight). Once seeds are dry they may be placed in a plastic bag and stored in the refrigerator for several years for later use.
In general, propagating and planting 2 to 3 plants is best to insure fruit production from at least 1 plant. This is because depending upon the source of seeds, they may produce female, bisexual, or male plants. Plant 2 to 4 seeds in each 1-gallon (3.8-liter) container in a clean, sterile artificial media. Water thoroughly, and place the containers in a warm sunny location. Germination may take 2 to 3 weeks. Once seedlings have emerged, select the most vigorous one and snip the others off at the soil line with clippers. Fertilize the seedlings with a dilute complete fertilizer solution every 10 to 14 days. Once plants have reached 6 to 12 inches (15-30 cm) tall, plant in a sunny location.
Production (Crop Yields)
Well-cared-for plants may begin to produce flowers 4 months after planting and fruit 7 to 11 months after planting. The amount of fruit produced by a papaya plant varies with the general climate, weather conditions during the year, and plant care. Yields vary from 60 to 80 lbs per tree over a 12 month period.
Spacing and Pruning
Papaya plants should be planted in full sun and at least 10 to 20 ft (3.1-6.1 m) away from other plants, buildings, and power lines. In general, planting 2 to 3 papaya plants 7 to 12 ft (2.1-3.7 m) away from each other will insure that at least one will be fruitful, and it will also facilitate fertilizing and watering.
Papaya plants are not pruned because their main growing point is terminal, and branched trees generally do not produce as well. If the main growing point is damage or killed, side sprouts may grow. Selecting 1 or 2 of the most vigorous shoots and removing the others will facilitate growth and fruiting of the remaining shoots. Tying these side shoots to a stake will reduce the chance they may break off due to a heavy fruit load or high winds.
Removal of dead leaves is a good practice and results in less scarring of the fruit from the base of the leaf petiole. It also reduces disease and insect problems.
Soils
Papaya plants grow and fruit well in many well drained soil types. Plants will do well with care in sands, loams, and rocky soils with a pH of 4.5 to 8.0.
Planting Papaya Plants
Properly planting a papaya tree is one of the most important steps in successfully establishing and growing a strong, productive tree. Some nurseries offer papaya plants and the first step is to choose a healthy nursery tree. Commonly, nursery papaya trees are grown in 1- to 3-gallon containers and trees stand 6 inches to 2 ft tall. Large trees in smaller containers should be avoided as the root system may be “root bound.” This means all the available space in the container has been filled with roots to the point that the tap root is growing along the edge of the container in a circular fashion. Root bound root systems may not grow properly once planted in the ground.
Inspect the tree for insect pests and diseases and inspect the trunk of the tree for wounds and constrictions. Select a healthy tree and water it regularly in preparation for planting in the ground.
Site Selection
In general, papaya trees should be planted in full sun for best growth and fruit production. Select a part of the landscape away from other trees, buildings and structures, and power lines. Select the warmest area of the landscape that does not flood (or remain wet) after typical summer rainfall.
Planting in Sandy Soil
Many areas in Florida have sandy soil. Remove a 3- to 5-ft-diameter ring of grass sod (0.9- to 1.5-m). Dig a hole 3 to 4 times the diameter and 3 times as deep as the container the papaya tree came in. Making a large hole loosens the soil next to the new tree, making it easy for the roots to expand into the adjacent soil. It is not necessary to apply fertilizer, topsoil, or compost to the hole. In fact, placing topsoil or compost in the hole first and then planting on top of it is not desirable. If you wish to add topsoil or compost to the native soil, mix it with the excavated soil in no more than a 50-50 ratio.
Backfill the hole with some of the excavated soil. Remove the tree from the container and place it in the hole so that the top of the soil media from the container is level with or slightly above the surrounding soil level. Fill soil in around the tree roots and tamp slightly to remove air pockets. Immediately water the soil around the tree and tree roots. Staking the tree with a wooden or bamboo stake is optional. However, do not use wire or nylon rope to tie the tree to the stake because they may eventually damage the tree trunk as it grows. Use a cotton or natural fiber string that will degrade slowly.
Planting in Rockland Soil
Many areas in Miami-Dade County have a very shallow soil and several inches below the soil surface is a hard, calcareous bedrock . Remove a 3- to 5-ft-diameter ring of grass sod (0.9- to 1.5-m). Make a hole 3 to 4 times the diameter and 3 times as deep as the container the tree came in. To dig a hole, use a pick and digging bar to break up the rock or contract with a company that has augering equipment or a backhoe. Plant trees as described in the previous section.
Planting on a Mound
Many areas in Florida are within 7 ft or so of the water table and experience occasional flooding after heavy rains. To improve plant survival, consider planting fruit trees on a 2- to 3-ft-high by 4- to 10-ft-diameter mound of native soil (0.3- to 0.9-m x1.2- to 3.1-m).
After the mound is made, dig a hole 3 to 4 times the diameter and 3 times as deep as the container the papaya tree came in. In areas where the bedrock nearly comes to the surface (rockland soil), follow the recommendations for the previous section. In areas with sandy soil, follow the recommendations from the section on planting in sandy soil.
Care of Papaya Plants in the Home Landscape
A calendar outlining the month-to-month cultural practices for papaya is shown in Table 1.
Fertilizer
Frequent applications of small amounts of fertilizer are best for continuous papaya growth and fruit production (Table 2). Young plants should be fertilzed every 14 days with 1/4 lb of a complete fertilizer with the amounts increasing as trees become larger. Complete fertilizers include nitrogen (N), phosphate (P2O5), potash (K2O), and a source of magnesium (Mg). Once trees become about 7 to 8 months old they should be fertilized with 1 to 2 lbs every other month. Minor elements may be applied up to 1 time per month. Minor elements including manganese and zinc may be applied to the ground in soils with a low pH (7 or less) and foliarly applied for plants growing in high pH soils. Similarly, iron sulfate may be applied to the ground for plants growing in low pH soils. However, for plants growing in high pH soils, chelated iron should be mixed in water and applied as a soil drench.
Irrigation (Watering)
Watering is essential for best papaya plant growth and fruit production. Papaya plants that lack water (drought stress) may drop flowers, leaves, and young fruit and produce small fruit of low sugar content.
Plants growing in sandy or rocky soils that are well drained and do not hold much water should be watered every other day or every day during hot, dry conditions and less often during cool parts of the year (late fall, winter). Plants growing in soil with a capacity to hold water (loams, sandy loams) should not be overwatered and therefore should be watered at 3- to 4-day intervals, especially during hot weather.
Mulch
Mulching papaya trees in the home landscape helps retain soil moisture, reduces weed problems adjacent to the tree trunk, and improves the soil near the surface. Mulch with a 2- to 6-inch (5- to 15-cm) layer of bark, wood chips, or similar mulch material. Keep mulch 8 to 12 inches (20-30 cm) from the trunk.
Insect Pests and Nematodes
Papaya plants are attacked by a number of insect pests including:
The papaya fruit fly (Toxotrypana curvicauda), which lays eggs through the papaya fruit peel into the fruit cavity where the larvae feed and eventually emerge from the ruined fruit. This fly is commonly mistaken for a wasp due to its long abdomen and yellow and black markings. Fruit infested with papaya fruit fly may show yellow areas and may drop from the tree prematurely. The easiest control for this pest is to place a paper bag over individual fruit when they are small and leave the bag on until harvest.
The papaya webworm (Homolapalpia dalera) is mainly a pest of the developing fruit peel and papaya stem and is usually found in, on, or near the stem amongst the flowers and fruit. Control includes hand removal and hosing off the plant with a strong stream of water from a garden hose.
The papaya whitefly (Trialeuroides variabilis) is generally only a pest of the leaves causing, leaves to drop and reducing fruit production. Control includes removing infested leaves and applying appropriate pest control products.
The two-spotted mite (Tetranychus urticae) is a major pest of papaya leaves and may cause defoliation and early leaf drop. Symptoms include a browning of the leaf surfact and eventually upper leaf surfaces and skeletonizing of the leaf. For current control measures please contact your local County Extension Agent.
A number of nematode species (Meloidogyne incognita, Rotylenchulus reniformis). Nematodes are small, microscopic, worm-like organisms that feed on papaya plant roots, causing plants to decline in vigor and making more plants more susceptible to toppling over because of the loss of roots. Papaya plants should be planted in areas with clean soil, avoiding areas of the landscape with known nematode problems.
Diseases
Papaya plants in Florida are susceptible to a number of diseases:
Papaya ringspot virus is the most important disease of papaya in Florida. The earliest symptoms are a yellow mottling of leaves and vein-clearing of leaves. As the disease progresses, the lobes of the leaves become distorted and leaf size is greatly reduced. Dark green streaks may develop on leaf petioles and the main stem. Fruit symptoms consist of dark circles or C-shaped markings on the fruit peel. Homeowners wishing to grow papaya in their home landscapes should avoid using seed from small, pear-shaped Solo-type fruit which, tend to be more susceptible to this virus than the larger, elongated, oval-shaped fruit found in many local markets. All papaya plants showing symptoms of the virus should be removed so as not to be a source of infection for new plants. Due to the problems with this virus, we recommend replanting papaya plants every 18 to 24 months.
Anthracnose (Colletotrichum gloeosporiodes) primarily attacks the maturing fruit. Symptoms include small water-soaked spots that enlarge, turn brown or black and become sunken. Eventually the fungus grows into the fruit tissue, ruining it for consumption. Please contact your local County Extension Agent for current control recommendations.
Powdery mildew (Oidium caricae) is primarily a disease of the leaves in Florida. A superficial white growth on the leaf surfaces leads to small, light yellow spots on the lower surfaces of the leaves. Next, pale yellow spots appear on the upper leaf surfaces. Eventually, dead leaf areas fall out of the leaves, giving them a shot-hole effect. Control includes removing infested leaves and removing them from near the plants.
Phytophthora blight (Phytophthora spp.) includes a number of diseases including damping-off, root rot, stem rot, and fruit rot. These diseases decrease plant vigor and may result in plant death.
Corynespora leaf spot (Corynespora cassiicola) is a disease of the leaves and begins as small, yellow areas which expand into larger (0.2-0.4 inches) circular brown spots.
Papaya apical necrosis is a relatively new virus in Florida. Symptoms include a drooping and downward cupping of the leaves, reduced leaf size, and browning of the leaf margins. At present there is no control for this disease.
Papaya Trees and Lawn Care
Papaya trees in the home landscape are susceptible to trunk injury caused by lawn mowers and weed eaters. Maintain a grass-free area 2 to 5 or more feet (0.9-1.5 m) away from the trunk of the tree. Never hit the tree trunk with lawn mowing equipment and never use a weed eater near the tree trunk. Mechanical damage to the trunk of the tree will result in weakening the tree and if severe enough can cause dieback or kill the tree.
Roots of mature papaya trees spread beyond the drip-line of the tree canopy and heavy fertilization of the lawn adjacent to papaya trees is not recommended because it may reduce fruiting and or fruit quality. The use of lawn sprinkler systems on a timer may result in over watering and cause papaya trees to decline. This is because too much water too often applied causes root rot.
Harvest, Ripening, and Storage
Papaya fruit may be harvested green for use as a vegetable and ripe when full yellow to orange color develops on the peel. Generally, fruit may be picked when yellow color covers 1/5 to 1/3 of the surface peel, however, greater color development of the fruit while on the tree increases fruit sugar content. After picking fruit, should be placed at room temperature to fully ripen before being stored in the refrigerator. Ripe fruit will keep up to 4 to 7 days.
Uses and Nutritional Value
Papaya fruit are commonly used as a ripe fresh fruit alone, in fruit salads, drinks, and desserts. Non-ripe fruit may be used as a vegetable or used in green salads. Fruit is also dried, candied, and made into pastes, jellies, and jams. Papaya fruit is low in calories and high in potassium and vitamin A (Table 3).
Tables
Table 1.
Cultural practices for fruiting papaya plants in the home landscape.
[continues for the tables....]
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3. Hydroponic herb production as a new industry
The story of Robert Hayes of Freshzest Pty Ltd
RMB 2520
Leongatha South, Victoria 3953
Telephone: 03 5674 5575
Facsimile: 03 5674 5527
Lot 59 Hunter Street
Burringbar NSW 2483
Telephone: 02 6677 1792
Facsimile: 02 6677 1793
[Robert Hayes addressed the Testing the Waters Symposium, Agriculture Victoria in 1995, in his capacity as a hydroponic grower since 1983 and as the then President of the Australian Hydroponics Association Inc.; several of the observations in this article were first made then; the current article has been updated by the author]
Robert Hayes was a field grower of herbs from 1978 until 1982. In 1989, he formed a partnership with his wife to produce and market fresh culinary herbs under the brand name Herbzest. In 1993, the company Freshzest was incorporated.
A research and development greenhouse was first established near Leongatha in 1982 to trial hydroponically grown herbs.
A substrate drain to waste hydroponic system was chosen over other techniques trialled including NFT, root spraying and flood and drain systems.
Research into the herb market was also conducted. From 1978 to 1982, the target market was the restaurant/hotel wholesale trade in fresh herbs.
In 1983 to 1985 research was also carried out to identify retail consumer requirements and trends in the usage of fresh herbs.
The three key consumer issues to emerge were:
* quality (being flavour, freshness and shelf life),
* continuity of supply and
* price.
Although there was a trend towards convenience foods at this time, there was also the emergence of the health conscious consumer who was buying fresh produce for home consumption.
A major problem was the delivery of a herb product with acceptable shelf life and reasonable quality when consumed, after passing through a typically unreliable supply chain.
Post-harvest handling techniques and product packaging and presentation were investigated and an education campaign undertaken with the company’s customers to show them proper handling practices.
This challenge was referred to as the ‘long march to idiot proofing’ the product’s supply chain.
In 1988, they developed a borrowing proposal for the bank, but were referred to the bank’s finance company who took a second mortgage over their home and loaned the money at extortionate interest rates.
Although they had thoroughly researched the herb business, the economic recession began within six months. Although the plan had been to produce a profit by the start of 1991, the Hayes were not able to make any drawings from the business until 1995, as indicated in the table on page 10.
The figures in the table include interest and depreciation. Capital invested included greenhouses, plant and equipment, research and development costs and unfunded operating losses from 1989. No land cost has been included. The management input from 1983 to 1995 has also not been accounted for!
[continues and has a section on what could have been done better, interesting to anyone with a business in mind....granny]
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[all titles are live links on url page]
Tropical Fruit for the Home Landscape
Publications
* Preparation for and Recovery from Hurricanes and Windstorms for Tropical Fruit Trees in the South Florida Home Landscape
* Abiu Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
* Ackee Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
* Atemoya Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
* Banana Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
* Barbados Cherry
* Black Sapote Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
* Caimito (Star Apple) Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
* Canistel Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
* Carambola Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
* Cashew-Apple Fruit Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
* Cocoa (Chocolate Bean) Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
* The Coconut Palm in Florida
* Coffee Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
* Jackfruit Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
* The Jaboticaba
* The Macadamia
* Mamoncillo (Genip) Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
* Mango Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
* Monstera Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
* Papaya Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
* The Passion Fruit
* Pejibaye (Peach Palm) Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
* Pitaya Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
* Tea Growing in the Florida Home Landscape
* White Sapote Growing in the Home Landscape
http://edis.ifas.ufl.edu/HS305
Black Sapote Growing in the Florida Home Landscape1
Jonathan H. Crane and Carlos F. Balerdi2
Scientific Name: Diospyros digyna
Common Names: black sapote and black persimmon (English), sapote negro, zapote prieto, and matasano de mico (Spanish)
Family: Ebenaceae
Relatives: persimmon, velvet apple
Origin: Mexico, Central America, and western South America
Distribution: Tropical and subtropical Latin America, the Philippines, Moluccas Islands, Sulawesi Island, and North America.
History: Black sapote was consumed by indigenous people in Mexico and Central America and distributed by the Spanish to the Caribbean and Asia.
Importance: Black sapote is not widely grown. It is usually consumed by local people who are familiar with the fruit.
Description
Tree
Medium (25 to 30 ft; 7.6 to 9.1 m) to large trees (30 to 80 ft; 9.1 to 24.4 m) with an oblong canopy. In Florida, usually a medium sized tree. Black sapote is usually dioecious, meaning that some trees produce only male flowers and no fruit and other trees produce female or bisexual flowers and fruit. Some trees may produce both male and female (or bisexual) flowers on the same tree.
Leaves
Evergreen leaves are alternate, oblong, leathery, 4 to 12 inches (10–30 cm) long, glossy, and dark green.
Inflorescence (Flowers)
Flowers arise in leaf axils and may be either hermaphroditic (possessing male and female plant parts) or male. Some trees may produce only male flowers. Male flowers are usually in clusters of 3 to 7, and female flowers are usually solitary. Flowers are white and tubular, with a green calyx and an 8- to 12-carpelled ovary.
Fruit
Fruit are oblate to globose, 2 to 6 inches (5–15 cm) in diameter,with dark olive-green to bright green peel and a persistent green calyx. Immature fruit are hard with a yellowish-orange pulp, becoming very soft and turning brown to black when fully ripe. There may be 0 to 12 flat, smooth, brown seeds.
Pollination
Flowers are pollinated by insects. Some varieties may be self-incompatible and therefore require cross pollination with another variety or seedling that produces male or bisexual flowers in order to produce fruit.
Varieties
There are a few black sapote varieties available in Florida including ‘Merida’ (also called ‘Reineke’) and ‘Bernicker’. There are a number of other varieties that are not available locally yet. These include ‘Mossman’, ‘Cocktail’, ‘Maher’, ‘Ricks Late’, and ‘Superb’.
*
‘Merida’ (’Reineke’) produces – fruit 2.5 to 4 inches (7-10 cm) in diameter, oblate, 7 to 16 oz; mean, 10 oz (190-440 g; mean 290 g), very sweet, good to excellent in quality, 5-10 seeds per fruit; season early to mid-Nov. to Jan., 132 to 165 lbs (60-120 kg) per tree.
*
‘Mossman’ – large fruit, few seeds.
*
‘Bernicker’ – few seeds, prolific.
*
‘Cocktail’ – excellent flavor
*
‘Maher’ – very large fruit, good quality
*
‘Ricks Late’ – from NSW Australia
*
‘Seperb’ – small fruit, nearly seedless.
Climate
Black sapote trees are adapted to tropical and warm subtropical areas and may be planted from sea level to an altitude of about 6,000 ft. Trees are not cold tolerant with young trees damaged or killed at or below 30°F (-1°C) and mature trees at or below 28°F (-2°C). Black sapote is reported to be flood tolerant but only moderately drought tolerant. Trees appear to tolerate moderately windy areas, and if pruned regularly to limit tree size and open the canopy to wind movement can withstand hurricane- force winds without toppling.
Propagation
Black sapote may be propagated by seed, marcottage (air-layering, budding, and grafting. Black sapote varieties do not come true from seed and seedling trees may take up to 5 or 6 years to flower. Trees with only male flowers will not produce fruit; trees with female or male and female flowers will bear fruit. Superior fruit varieties and selections are therefore propagated by budding and grafting.
Production (Crop Yields)
No information is available on the typical crop yields. However, large trees may produce several hundred pounds per year. Harvest of black sapote varies and may be December through February or June through August.
Spacing and Pruning
Planting distances depend on soil type and fertility, current technology, and expertise of the homeowner. Black sapote trees in the home landscape should be planted 25 to 30 feet or more (7.6 to 9.1 m) away from buildings and other trees. Trees planted too close to other trees or structures may not grow normally or produce much fruit as they grow older due to shading.
Soils
Black sapote trees grow well in most well drained soil types including sands and limestone-based, high-pH soils.
Planting a Black Sapote Tree
Proper planting is one of the most important steps in successfully establishing and growing a strong, productive tree. The first step is to choose a healthy nursery tree. Commonly, nursery black sapote trees are grown in 3-gallon (11-liter) containers and trees stand 2 to 4 ft (0.6–0.9 m) from the surface of the soil media. Large trees in smaller containers should be avoided because the root system may be “root bound.” This means all the available space in the container has been filled with roots to the point that the tap root is growing along the edge of the container in a circular fashion. Root bound root systems may not grow properly once planted in the ground. Inspect the tree for insect pests and diseases and inspect the trunk of the tree for wounds and constrictions. Select a healthy tree and water it regularly in preparation for planting.
Site Selection
In general, black sapote trees should be planted in full sun for best growth and fruit production. Select a part of the landscape away from other trees, buildings and structures, and power lines. Remember black sapote trees can become very large if not pruned to contain their size. Select the warmest area of the landscape that does not flood (or remain wet) after typical summer rainfall.
Planting in Sandy Soil
Many areas in Florida have sandy soil. Remove a 3- to 10-ft-diameter (0.9- to 3.1-m) diameter ring of grass sod. Dig a hole 3 to 4 times the diameter and 3 times as deep as the container the black sapote tree came in. Making a large hole loosens the soil next to the new tree, making it easy for the roots to expand into the adjacent soil. It is not necessary to apply fertilizer, topsoil, or compost to the hole. In fact, placing topsoil or compost in the hole first and then planting on top of it is not desirable. If you wish to add topsoil or compost to the native soil, mix it with the excavated soil in no more than a 1:1 ratio.
Backfill the hole with some of the excavated soil. Remove the tree from the container and place it in the hole so that the top of the soil media from the container is level with or slightly above the surrounding soil level. Fill soil in around the tree roots and tamp slightly to remove air pockets. Immediately water the soil around the tree and tree roots. Staking the tree with a wooden or bamboo stake is optional. However, do not use wire or nylon rope to tie the tree to the stake because they may eventually damage the tree trunk as it grows. Use a cotton or natural fiber string that will degrade slowly.
Planting in Rockland Soil
Many areas in Miami-Dade County have a very shallow soil, and several inches below the soil surface is a hard, calcareous bedrock . Remove a 3- to 10-ft-diameter (0.9- to 3.1- m) diameter ring of grass sod. Make a hole 3 to 4 times the diameter and 3 times as deep as the container the black sapote tree came in. To dig a hole, use a pick and digging bar to break up the rock or contract with a company that has augering equipment or a backhoe. Plant the tree as described for sandy soils.
Planting on a Mound
Many areas in Florida are within 7 ft or so of the water table and experience occasional flooding after heavy rains. To improve plant survival, consider planting fruit trees on a 3- to 4-ft-high by 4- to 10-ft-diameter (0.6- to 0.9-m by 1.2- to 3.1-m) mound of native soil. After the mound is made, dig a hole 3 to 4 times the diameter and 3 times as deep as the container the tree came in. In areas where the bedrock nearly comes to the surface (rockland soil), follow the recommendations for the previous section. In areas with sandy soi, follow the recommendations from the section on planting in sandy soil.
Care of Black Sapote Trees in the Home Landscape
A calendar outlining the suggested month-to-month cultural practices for black sapote is shown in Table 1.
Fertilizer
Black sapote is not demanding in its fertilizer requirements. After planting, when new growth begins, apply 1/4 lb (113 g) of a young tree fertilizer such as a 6-6-6-2 (%nitrogen-% phosphate-% potash-% magnesium) with minor elements with 20 to 30% of the nitrogen from organic sources (Table 2). Repeat this every 6 to 8 weeks for the first year then gradually increase the amount of fertilizer to 0.5, 0.75, and 1.0 lb (227 g, 341 g, 454 g) as the tree grows. Use 4 to 6 minor element (nutritional) foliar sprays per year from April to September.
Black sapote trees generally do not develop iron deficiency, even when grown in the rocky, calcareous, high-pH soils of Miami-Dade County. If iron deficiency symptoms appear (chlorotic leaves with green veins) apply iron. For trees in acid to neutral soils apply dry iron sulfate at 0.25 to 1 oz (7-28 g) per tree to the soil 2 to 4 times per year; water the iron into the ground. In alkaline soils with a high pH, drench the soil next to the tree trunk with 2 to 4 oz. (57-113 g) of iron chelate 1 to 2 times per year from June through September.
For mature trees, 3.0 to 5.0 lbs (1.4-2.3 kg) of fertilizer per application 2 to 3 times per year is recommended. The fertilizer mix should also include phosphate (P2O5) and potash (K2O); use a 6-6-6, 8-3-9 or similar material. Use 2 to 3 minor element (nutritional) foliar sprays per year from April to September.
Irrigation (Watering)
Newly planted black sapote trees should be watered at planting and every other day for the first week or so and then 1 to 2 times a week for the first couple of months. During prolonged dry periods (e.g., 5 or more days of little to no rainfall) newly planted and young black sapote trees (first 3 years) should be watered once a week. Once the rainy season arrives, irrigation may be reduced or stopped.
Once black sapote trees are 4 or more years old watering will be beneficial to plant growth and crop yields only during very prolonged dry periods during the year. Mature black sapote trees do not need frequent watering and over watering may cause trees to decline or be unthrifty.
Black Sapote Trees and Lawn Care
Black sapote trees in the home landscape are susceptible to trunk injury caused by lawn mowers and weed eaters. Maintain a grass-free area 2 to 5 (0.6-1.5 m) or more feet away from the trunk of the tree. Never hit the tree trunk with lawn mowing equipment and never use a weed eater near the tree trunk. Mechanical damage to the trunk of the tree will weaken the tree and, if severe enough, can cause dieback or kill the tree.
Roots of mature black sapote trees spread beyond the drip-line of the tree canopy. Heavy fertilization of the lawn next to black sapote trees is not recommended because it may reduce fruiting and fruit quality. The use of lawn sprinkler systems on a timer may result in over watering and cause black sapote trees to decline. This is because too much water too often applied causes root rot.
Mulch
Mulching black sapote trees in the home landscape helps retain soil moisture, reduces weed problems next to the tree trunk, and improves the soil near the surface. Mulch with a 2- to 6- inch (5- to 15- cm) layer of bark, wood chips, or similar mulch material. Keep mulch 8 to 12 inches (20-30 cm) from the trunk.
Insect Pests and Diseases
At present there are no major insect pests and diseases of black sapote in Florida.
Pruning
Formative pruning during the first 2 years may be desirable to encourage lateral branching and growth. After several years of production, it is desirable to cut back the tops of the trees to 12 to 15 feet (3.6 to 4.6 m). Selectively removing a few upper limbs back to their origins (crotches) each year will help prevent the loss of the lower tree canopy due to shading by the upper canopy. In addition, maintaining a smaller tree facilitates tree care and fruit harvest, makes it easier to spray the tree, and greatly reduces possible storm damage.
Pruning should be done soon after after danger of frost has passed. Severe pruning is sometimes used to reduce tree height or width of very large trees. Pruning does not injure black sapote trees, but may reduce fruit production for one to several seasons. Once black sapote trees become 30 ft tall (9.1 m) or taller extreme caution should be used in pruning the trees. Climbing trees to prune them is dangerous and not recommended. Pruning of large black sapote trees should be done by a professional arborist who is licensed and insured.
Harvest, Ripening, and Storage
Mature black sapote fruit change from a shiny green to dull green color and the lobes of the sepals (called the calyx) reflex upward. Harvested fruit take 3 to 14 days to soften to eating quality. After fruit become ripe they may be stored in the refrigerator for several days for later use.
Uses and Nutritional Value
Black sapote fruit are eaten when fully ripe and soft. The soft pulp may be eaten fresh or is commonly added as an ingredient of drinks, ice-cream, cakes, and milk-shakes. Black sapote is very high in vitamin C and a good source of calcium and phosphorus (Table 3).
continues with tables....
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Shiitake Mushroom Kit Growing Instructions
The shiitake mushroom (Lentinus edodes) prefers cool temperatures (45-70 degrees Fahrenheit, 7-21 degrees Celsius), and a high humidity (75-85% relative humidity). It requires light – direct sunlight is too strong, but “skylight”, or light from a fluorescent lamp up to about 15 ft. away, is fine. It requires fresh air, but, a lot of air movement will tend to be too drying and may sweep away too much of the carbon dioxide produced by the growing mycelium.
In a less than perfect environment, it is beneficial to keep the bag on the substrate block as much as possible, to minimize the drying and maintain slightly elevated carbon dioxide levels. Open the top of the bag a little, to allow for increased ventilation which helps to induce fruiting (“pinning”) but minimize drying. The substrate surface should be moist at the times when flushes of mushrooms are wanted. When small mushrooms are evident, open the op of the bag a little more. As the mushrooms develop a little more, slit the bag down the sides of the substrate block to provide room for the expanding mushrooms and to provide more ventilation. If mushrooms appear down the sides of the block under the plastic, then slit the bag at that point, but do not cut the surface of any developing mushrooms or the surface of the block.
During damp, cool weather they will grow well outdoors, if protected from direct sunlight, hard freezing, slugs, snails and crawling insects. Forced air heating or a drafty location indoors may cause excessive drying. Constructing a “tent”, in the form of a large, clear plastic bag placed loosely over the top, or poly supported by wire or sticks may be necessary. When dry conditions prevail, you may need to mist the inside of the tent (remember that cold weather outside may result in low humidity indoors). As a method of keeping your mushrooms humid, frequent misting directly onto them is not a very satisfactory approach and often leads to bacterial problems.
Although they may benefit from an occasional drenching, mushrooms must not remain continuously wet, or they will rot. Often, drenching the pack by holding it under a tepid shower for a minute or two at the start is beneficial. Mushrooms should be ready to harvest in 2-3 weeks. After a heavy harvest the block will have lost much moisture. The water may be replenished by immersing the block in cold (35-50 degrees F) water for 4-8 hours. The soaking water should be as cold as possible. Immersion in warm water for more than a short time may damage your mushroom plant. Warm water does not carry as much dissolved oxygen as cold water and at the same time the mushroom’s need for oxygen is greater in warm water. Drain the block well, and place it in a clear poly bag with about ten 1/4” holes in it, so that it will have a little fresh air and slowly dry out. More mushrooms should appear within 2-4 weeks. If none appear, fruiting may be encouraged by thumping the block down 3 or 4 times on a table. The open the bag for increased ventilation. The reactivation cycle may be repeated 3 or 4 times or more.
Soaking or thumping is sometimes necessary to start the mushrooms initially, if the block has dried out too much before you start to fruit it. Soak in very cold water (a long soak in warm water will damage your mushroom plant) for 4-8 hours. If the surface of your mushroom block is mostly white coloured when you receive it, then it may need to “mature” for a few weeks before it will be ready to brown. Maturing occurs under normal fruiting conditions (55 to 75 degrees F). Some light is essential for maturation. Shiitake mushroom mycelium will be killed at a temperature of about 100 degrees F (just above body temperature), so be careful during hot weather and do not place your plant in direct mid-day sun. Freezing temperature should not damage your shiitake plant unless it is very wet – such as when we ship it to you. If the block has lost a lot of moisture while it matures, it will likely be necessary to soak it.
The Shiitake has an excellent flavour and texture, reminiscent of meat. It makes an excellent addition to soups, stews, stir fries, etc. Dried shiitake chips are a real treat, although strong flavoured. Harvest when white, cottony veil beneath the cap has fully broken away from the stem or, if you want really large mushrooms just let them grow. The substrate on which your mushrooms are growing is made of hardwood dust supplemented with millet grain, rye grain, wheat bran and crushed limestone. No pesticides or chemicals have been added to the medium.
During warm weather, mushroom flies can be a problem. Scraping off any patches in which the larvae are observed will help to control them.
Please Note
This shiitake spawn requires a pre-incubation period of approximately 3 weeks at a temperature of 60-75 degrees F, with some exposure to (low level) light, in as clean a place, prior to fruiting. Humidity is not usually a problem at this stage as the poly bag protects the clock of substrate from drying. However, damp dirty environments often have populations of mites and insects which may infest your fit. During this period the block of sawdust-wood chip substrate will develop patches of brown as it matures. Towards the end of pre-incubation, the sides of the clock will also develop bumps and cracks.
If mushrooms have not started to develop by about 5 weeks, then give the bag a light thumping on a counter top and handle for fruiting as described in the instructions. Temperature changes within the range of about 50-65 degrees F will help to promote “pinning” at this stage. The optimum temperature for colonization and maturing (65-75 degrees F) is a little high for “pinning: (initiation of the fruiting process), and the block should be placed in an environment with a temperature in the range of 45-65 degrees F for pinning and fruiting. high humidity (65-85% relative humidity) is necessary at this stage. Giving the substrate block a thump on the table top will also promote pinning. If mushrooms start to form under the bag, then slit the bag down to that point to allow the mushrooms to expand. Be careful not to cut the developing mushrooms.
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Maitake Mushroom Kit Growing Instructions
The maitake mushroom is quite fastidious in its environmental requirements, and takes careful attention to be successful with. Ideal conditions are a shaded, but not dark place with a cool temperature of 13-18 degrees Celsius (55-65 degrees Fahrenheit), and 80-90% relative humidity.. Choose a relatively clean place to grow your maitake. Dirty environments will have mould spores, mites and insects which may contaminate your plant and damage it. Since the maitake is relatively slow growing, it is more susceptible to contaminate than the Reishi and Shiitake mushrooms for example.
The maitake grows quite slowly at optimal temps, and under most circumstances it is best to leave the mushroom plant in the special polypropylene autoclave bag in which you receive it.
Pull the top of the bag up like a tent over the substrate block, but do not remove the twist tie at the top of the bag. The maitake will “pin” (start to form mushrooms) most readily at a temperature of about 15-18 degrees C (60-65 degrees F). Pinning will be slower at temperatures cooler than 55 degrees F (13 degrees C) and may not occur at all at above 65 degrees F (18 degrees C). Pinning will usually occur on the top of the substrate block in response to the slight increase in ventilation which occurs when the top of the bag is pulled up in tent fashion, but may occur on the sides of the block if there are slits or holes there. It may take a month or so for a mound of dark coloured primordia (pins) to form. After pinning, the growing mushrooms will tolerate a slightly wider temperature range.
Since the mushroom is slow growing it will tend to dry out if the top of the bag is opened too much and too early. Once a mound of primordia has formed, loosen the tie on the top of the bag a little at a time to provide increasing ventilation and more room for the mushroom to grow. Watch for any signs of drying out and reduce ventilation if necessary, or increase the humidity in the greater environment to compensate. As the mushrooms expand loosen the tie more and more. Eventually remove the tie when the growing mound of mushrooms starts to fill the head space of the bag. As the mushrooms fill the head space, gradually pull the mouth of the bag open, a little at a time, and eventually slit the top part of the bag, and then pull the sides of the bag away from the growing mushrooms. As you open up the bag, humidity control becomes critical.
Maitake are slow growing and are very susceptible to drying out if the humidity is low. Although high humidity is essential, the mushrooms do not like to be wet for more than a short time. They may succumb to bacteria if wet for more than an hour or two at a time. As a method of keeping your mushrooms humid, frequent misting directly onto them is not a very satisfactory approach and often leads to bacterial problems. A large clear plastic bag or poly sheet over wire or a 1 inch by 2 inch frame placed over the top may serve as a humidity tent.
During wet, mid weather, a protected outdoor environment may be a good place to let your mushrooms mature. Indoors, during dry weather, or in dry climates, it will be necessary to provide extra humidity by placing a moist cloth inside the enclosure or misting the inside of the tent. The humidity in a room with a damp concrete floor will usually be pretty high, especially near the floor.
During warm weather, mushroom flies can be a problem. A partial solution to this is to scrape off any patches in which the larvae are observed.
Lavender Production, Products, Markets, and Entertainment Farms
By Katherine L. Adam
NCAT Agriculture Specialist
Published 2006
ATTRA Publication #IP243
The printable PDF version of the entire document is available at:
http://attra.ncat.org/attra-pub/PDF/lavender.pdf
12 pages — 362K
Download Acrobat Reader
Abstract
Field of lavender.
This publication is intended for a beginning lavender grower with some horticultural experience. The publication discusses geographic and climatic considerations for lavender, soil preparation and cultivation techniques, lavender propagation materials, and field production. The publication also addresses lavender essential oils, evaluation of the bulk distillation industry, direct marketing of a variety of lavender products, and the potential for lavender agri-tourism. This publication also surveys clusters of lavender farms in Texas, California, and Washington, the lavender entertainment industry, and on-farm lavender product sales. Newly expanded lists of U.S. lavender farms and Web sites are also offered, as well as a list of other resources.
Table of Contents
* Introduction
* Suitable Location for Lavender Production
* Cultivation
* Cultivars and Propagation
* Field Production of Lavender
* Essential Oils
* Lavender and Agri-tourism
* Dungeness Valley Lavender Tourism
* Direct Marketing
* Requirements for Success in Lavender Production
* References
* Additional Links
* Further Reading
Introduction
Lavender is a small, aromatic shrub used in the fragrance, specialty food, and alternative medicine industries. Although family farmers may find large-scale extraction of lavender’s valuable oil too expensive and laborious, small-scale lavender production is feasible for some farmers using alternative marketing strategies. Entertainment farming has been a very successful form of alternative marketing for lavender, especially as a focus for annual festivals and product sales.
Like most herbs, lavender has few if any insect pests. Few fungal diseases attack lavender, but since there are no known remedies for them, chemical applications are not an issue. Lavender ranks high as a sustainable crop because it does not rely on pesticides and fertilizers. It does not require fertilizing, although in rare circumstances irrigation may be called for. The biggest issue is finding a viable marketing method.
Related ATTRA Publications
Herb Production in Organic Systems
Direct Marketing
Edible Flowers
Entertainment Farming and Agri-Tourism
Keys to Success in Value-Added Agriculture
NCAT’s Organic Crops Workbook
Plug and Transplant Production for Organic Systems
Potting Mixes for Certified Organic Production
Sustainable Small-Scale Nursery Production
[continues and it is an excellent article on Lavender...lots of links and information...granny]
http://www.richters.com/Resources/temp3511.html
[live links at url]
A Manual for Commercial Production of Lavender (Delaware State University - U.S.)
Lavender: Images of Harvest and Distillation of Herbs (Michel Vanhove - France)
http://www.gardenhere.com/content/chesapeake-ranch-estates-a-community-based-garden-project
Chesapeake Ranch Estates: A Community Based Garden Project
By mdgardengurl
Created 02/22/2008 - 14:35
Chesapeake Ranch Estates is a private community located in Southern Maryland. We are fortunate to have as one of our amenities, our own Community Garden, which consists of 70 individual garden plots of various sizes. Each of the gardens is fenced in, and we provide our own locks for our individual garden spaces. The Garden area covers over 2 acres of what was originally a tobacco field, and it has been cleared and cultivated for the last 15+ years. There are several water spigots located throughout the garden area so that everyone has access to them from their respective gardens.
Many of our gardeners are senior citizens, and most are women. We are allowed to grow any (legal) crops that we wish, and our gardeners grow everything from flowers and herbs to vegetables and fruit. We have a few apple trees and a peach tree located within the gardens, which are available for picking by anyone who wishes. Our gardens are one of the amenities that are administered by our board of directors, and there are some rules that must be followed. There is a nominal charge of $15 to $20 each year to help defray the cost of the water that is used. The gardens are inspected at various times throughout the year to insure that they are being maintained, and those that are found to be neglected receive warnings from our inspection team. If repeated warnings are ignored, the garden plots are taken back by the garden club to be reassigned to people on our waiting list.
From Memorial Day through Labor Day each year, we have a weekly Saturday morning garden produce sale from 8 am till noon. Those of us who participate generally arrive at the gardens around 7 am to pick fresh goodies from our gardens. We set up tables in the front of the garden area, under the shade of the apple trees, and sell whatever has been harvested. We also sell home made goodies, jams and jellies, pickles, spices, etc. Many times, we buy from each other! Since we have so many gardeners, we have a lot of different produce to choose from. I, for instance, don’t grow squash or other vining crops in my garden because of the space they take up. I know I can buy these things from someone else, or in all likelihood, trade something I grow for them.
We have 3 large compost bins built in a community area for all the gardeners to use. It is great to have a place to take all your plant materials to be composted. We also have dump trucks full of wood chips delivered, so there is always a big mountain of mulch for us to use. Most of this is courtesy of Hurricane Isabel and the trees it felled. We get manure from our stables, which is another amenity of the community.
Many of our gardeners donate their excess produce to local food banks, our senior citizen center, or to fund-raising dinners held around our area. One of our gardeners hosts a huge free stir-fry meal for the senior citizens each year. We also have a booth set up during our National Night Out each year, where we have a huge basket of produce to give away to the visitors. We have an annual spring plant sale, which has been very successful. The proceeds from this sale go to the garden club to defray the costs of fixing fences, buying tools for everyone to share, building compost bins or other projects the community gardens will benefit from.
We are very happy to share information about gardening, and we give tours of our community gardens whenever anyone wishes. You might even walk away with some garden goodies afterwards!
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http://www.gardenhere.com/content/Itchy-skin-dogs-and-cats
Itchy skin on dogs and cats
By Datura
Created 01/08/2009 - 14:35
Apple cider vinegar sprayed on your pets itchy skin greatly reduces the itching. I have a dog that was taking pills at $3 a day to curb his chewing on himself and itching and googled itchy skin on pets and discovered this tip. it’s amazing what apple cider vinegar can do.
Comments
Wed, 02/04/2009 - 08:36 — ayla45019
Cider Vinegar
Vinegar has so many uses, when growing up, my uncle added it to the drinking water of horses and it helped with deter of horse flies.
Sat, 01/10/2009 - 18:17 — Datura
Dogs
I have two 100+pound golden retrievers, only one has the skin problem. If the skin is raw mix a bit of water with the vinegar before spraying it on. Annette
Sat, 01/10/2009 - 17:06 — lily
lily’s picture
I will have to try this for
I will have to try this for “Romeo” our 129 lb Lab (yes, he’s a beast) He takes medication all summer for itchy skin allergies.
Fri, 01/09/2009 - 10:36 — Penny-G
I do this too, we have a big
I do this too, we have a big dog and he gets itchy skin in the winter, and where we got our dog from, she does this with her’s, so we add Apple Cider Vinegar to his water bucket, for every 50 pounds of dog, we add 1tsp of cider vinegar and it works like a charm, we also keep it up in the summer, he has never had fleas and it deters them, cant stand the taste i guess.
Exchanging Plants and Flowers is the Neighborly Thing To Do
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http://www.gardenhere.com/content/sweet-tomatoes
Sweet Tomatoes?
Fri, 03/21/2008 - 18:01 — DizzyDaffodil
When putting out your tomato plants, sprinkle one (1) tablespoon of sugar in the planting hole at the roots. Don’t know if it make the ‘maters (tomatoes) any sweeter, but it will help kill nasty nematodes. Wink
* Extra Tip - always plant tomatoes extra deep, even pulling off the lower leaves and planting part of the stem will give your tomatoes extra stability and extra roots for more nutrients and sweeter tasting ‘maters!
Here’s a tip for tomato growers that goes totally against everything I ever thought I knew, but I have to admit that it makes a great deal of sense.
When you transplant tomatoes into the ground, you want to fertilize them with a fertilizer that is NOT high in Nitrogen (and nitrogen is the first number listed on fertilizer containers) because nitrogen will promote leaf growth to the point where the plants will expend most of their energy in trying to promote leaf growth and not trying to promote fruit growth. Likewise, when you fertilize them as they are growing, you want to boost tomato production, not aid in leaf growth.
I always thought that a high nitrogen fertilizer was what you wanted, but that’s not so. I just read this yesterday.
Banish Pesky Fruit Flies
By skbeal
Created 04/17/2008 - 14:30
Fruit flies and fungus gnats are pretty much one in the same. Someone suggested using ground cinnamon to get rid of the fungus gnats. I still had a problem so I did some digging and read more about them. A warm moist environment is a perfect breeding ground for these annoying beasts. You can try all sorts of things to get rid of them, but I finally read something that made a great deal of sense!
Fungus gnats or fruit flies lay their larva on the soil. If you don’t get rid of the larva, you’ll never get rid of the problem. I didn’t want to use chemicals, and I didn’t want to have to go on a goose chase to find something that would work so I did an Internet search to find some home remedies.
I discovered that what you really need is something that will soak up the larva of these pests! Once you get rid of the larva, the problem should dissipate.
Here’s the idea:
To get rid of fungus gnats or fruit flies, cut a potato (or however many you need,) into chunks that are approximately 2” thick. Place them on the surface of the soil in the pot. You will need to place them everywhere. Leave them there, but turn them over when the side that faces up starts to look kind of funky. Let them stay there for a couple of days. When you remove the potato chunks, you should be able to see all sorts of larva on the potato. Repeat the process and continue doing it until you can remove a potato that has nothing on it. If you develop the problem again, simply repeat the procedure. The fungus gnats/fruit flies will lay the larva in the potatoes, and what isn’t laid in the potatoes will be picked up by the potato from the top of the soil.
Try this. I’m not kidding. I think I really am noticing results!
Exchanging Plants and Flowers is the Neighborly Thing To Do
Source URL (retrieved on 06/21/2009 - 03:03):
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I have a new book full of great gardening tips. Her’es one I found very interesting...
To prevent fungus growth, sprinkle Cinnamon on your soil/potting mix. It is a natural fungicide.
I tried this about a week ago on some new seedlings and its worked so far - no fungus/gnats yet! Wish I’d known sooner!
Chellflower
This tip will make your gravies have a deep rich taste. When I have cooked a pot roast or smothered steak and need a rich or darker gravey I add some left -over coffee. It can be from the morning pot of coffee. I have not tried it on chicken dishes.
Welcome to Neem Tree Farms
While nearly unknown in the US, neem is one of the most widely used medicinal herbs in the world. Neem is a cornerstone of the Ayurvedic tradition, and was known as sarva roga nivarin or “healer of all ailments” in ancient India. Today, in tropical regions around the world, neem is often called “the village pharmacy.”
We started growing neem in 1992, based on the indirect advice of the US government which published “Neem: A Tree for Solving Global Problems” through National Research Council and the National Academy Press. Still available online, the report details preliminary reports on neem’s use as a “soft pesticide,” medicinal herb and its potential contraceptive properties.
Seventeen years later, universities and laboratories from Bangalore to Baltimore continue to document neem’s benefits. With more than a hundred separate compounds, specific exact modes of action have not been determined but nearly 500 reports available online at the National Institutes of Health website document its efficacy in many applications. Perhaps most importantly, no serious side effects have been documented when neem was used as directed.
In the US, it is most often used as an immune system booster with multiple actions that make it particularly effective. First it increases activity of both the cell-mediated system (the Killer T response) and macrophage response (white blood cells). It also is packed with antioxidants that are critical in preventing age-related disorders.
Other major uses for neem include:
* Topical treatment for skin and hair. High levels of antioxidants combine with long-chain fatty acids and natural glycerides to help soothe even chronically dry, itchy skin or scalps.
* Natural anti-inflammatory compounds provide relief from minor muscle and joint pain.
* Neem chew sticks have been used for thousands of years to promote healthy gums and white teeth.
* Liver-protecting compounds, including glutathione, minimize the impact of environmental toxins and pollutants.
Learn More!
Sherrie Henne N.D., owner of www.usingneem.com, has compiled an enormous amount of information on neem, including clinical research from around the world and reports from people who have used neem in a wide variety of situations. The research is broken down into white papers focused on specific issues with a separate interactive forum where additional questions can be posed.
SPECIAL OFFER: We’ll send you a complimentary copy of the 42-page booklet called “NEEM: A hands-on guide to one of the world’s most versatile herbs” valued at $4.95 with your order of $35 or more.
Other News About Neem!
Links tosome of the latest news about neem from around the world:
* Calgary Herald, Neem tree offers shade, medicine, and insect control, Feb. 8, 2009
* WINK News, Neem toothpaste gaining in popularity, Feb. 4, 2009
* LiveMint.com (Wall Street Journal), Government plans to register neem-based products as pesticide
* Current Drug Targets, HIV: a raft-targeting approach for prevention and therapy using plant-derived compounds (review), January 2009
* Phytotherapy Research, The use of neem for controlling gastric hyperacidity and ulcer, January 2009
* Fine Gardening, Control pests and diseases safely with neem
* Human Immunology, Neem leaf glycoprotein directs T-bet-associated type 1 immune commitment., January 2009
* BBC News, Neem: India’s Tree of Life, April 17, 2006
Disclaimer: Neem Tree Farms does not sell products which are intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease or kill or repel any insect on humans, animals or plants. The research presented on this page is not intended to diagnose, treat, cure or prevent any disease. The statements have not been evaluated by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration. Whenever possible, links to abstracts published by the National Institutes of Health (a division of the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services) are provided.
ALWAYS CONSULT WITH YOUR HEALTHCARE PROFESSIONAL BEFORE STARTING ANY NUTRITIONAL, HERBAL, HOMEOPATHIC, OR DIETARY SUPPLEMENT PROGRAM.