Posted on 02/09/2009 12:36:11 AM PST by nw_arizona_granny
Growing Organic Food
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by Judith Schwader
A to Z Gardening
Everyone - including the backyard gardener - who wants to
grow food in a way that is sustainable and that respects
the natural environment can benefit from using the federal
organic guidelines from the Organic Food Production Act
that took effect in 2002. These federal standards for
organic cultivation were designed by people with a profound
knowledge of how to produce food ecologically.
With the home gardener rather than the market gardener
especially in mind, what follows here is an overview and
some highlights of the standards and regulations. For more
details, visit the US Department of Agriculture (USDA)
website: www.ams.usda.gov. Click “National Organic Program.”
~~Soil~~
In an organic gardening system, soil health is fundamental
to success. Even though natural fertilizers and other
inputs are used in organic gardening, they are minimized by
regular additions of organic material to feed and improve
the soil. This material can come, for instance, from
tilling in cover crops and from using approved soil
amendments such as compost.
Raw animal manures are not to be used as soil amendments
within six months of harvest for root crops. For crops
where the edible part never touches the soil, raw animal
manures are not used within three months of harvest. Sewage
sludge is absolutely banned. Crop residues can be chopped
into the soil, but not burned.
~~Pests~~
Biological pesticides can be used, but should be viewed as
a last resort. Before spraying a pesticide, organic
gardeners can use predators of the pest species, develop
habitat to encourage the natural enemies of pests, and use
controls like traps and non-synthetic repellants.
~~Diseases~~
Prevention is the idea. Plants grown in healthy soil are
naturally resistant to disease. Crop rotation and selecting
the right varieties also contribute to disease control. If,
however, there is still a problem, visit the USDA web site
mentioned above and select from the National List of
biologicals and botanicals that are permitted to certified
organic growers.
~~Weeds~~
The federal organic standards allow no herbicides. Control
weeds by tilling, hand weeding, mowing, etc. Also, natural
mulches (e.g. straw) are useful.
~~Seeds and Transplants~~
These must also be organic for the crop to be labeled
organic.
The backyard gardener who is interested in growing
organically for the nutritional and environmental benefit
rather than for the purpose of marketing, probably doesn’t
need all the nitty gritty details of the Organic Food
Production Law.
Just use the basic guidelines and act with respect for
nature, and you’re on the way to producing organic food.
It’s well worth it: healthier for people and healthier for
the environment.
About the Author:
Life-time gardener Judith Schwader specializes in organic gardening methods. She shares expertise, humor, and advice for your gardening success at A to Z Gardening. Also visit FB Home for additional home and garden information.
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This article may be reprinted in its entirety so long as the
author’s credits and all links remain intact.
http://www.atozgardening.com/articles/14-growing-organic-food.html
Organic Fertilizers: Mix Your Own Special Blends
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by Judith Schwader
A to Z Gardening
Organic gardening involves a system that centers around
healthy soil - a mixture of sand, clay, silt, and
decomposed organic material (humus). But even when the soil
is well-balanced and healthy, plants benefit from additions
of specifically formulated organic fertilizers.
You can buy prepared organic fertilizers, or blend
individual fertilizer ingredients for specific purposes,
such has high nitrogen blends for leafy greens or high
potassium blends for root crops.
Since the following organic fertilizer recipes all involve
dry ingredients, they can be blended ahead of time and
stored in labeled plastic containers with lids. Most
gardening centers will have the individual ingredients, but
if you can’t buy them locally, they are available from
online sources, such as WhitneyFarms.com which sells only
organic products.
For all of the following recipes, make any amount using
the volume ratios given. Use anything from a yogurt
container to a lemonade pitcher as a scoop. Each full scoop
equals one part.
An all-purpose, basic organic fertilizer recipe is useful
to have on hand in a large quantity. If you’re making a big
batch, mix it up in a wheel barrow and stir to blend with a
hoe. Then store in a labeled, plastic container with lid.
Basic Organic Fertilizer Mix:
~~For use as at planting time or side dressing for all
types of plants~~
3 parts blood or fishmeal
3 parts steamed bone meal
1 part kelp meal
1 and 1/2 parts Sul-Po-Mag (a brand name at Whitney Farms
for a sulfur, potassium, and magnesium mixture, but you can
substitute any such mixture.)
The following specially formulated mixes are fast acting
and work well when used at planting time and as side
dressings. Although these balanced mixes will generally
give desired results, soils do vary. You can experiment and
find what works best for your soil.
Generally, the fertilizers are applied at the rate of: 1/2
cup per transplant, or 5 pounds per 100 square feet or 100
row feet.
High Nitrogen Mix
~~For plants that are grown with the leaf or follar
structure as the edible part~~
4 parts blood meal
2 parts cottonseed meal
1 part steamed bone meal
1/2 part Sul-Po-Mag (a brand name source for sulfur,
potassium, and magnesium)
1/2 part kelp meal
High Potassium Mix
~~For crops that are grown with the root or tuber as the
edible part~~
2 parts cottonseed meal
2 and 1/2 parts Sul-Po-Mag
1 and 1/2 parts steamed bone meal
1 part greensand
1 part kelp meal
High Phosphorous Mix
~~For crops that are grown for the fruit or seed as the
edible part~~
4 parts steamed bone meal
1 part fish meal
1 part meat and bone meal
1 part soft phosphate
1/2 part Sul-Po-Mag
1/2 part kelp meal
Additional ideas for organic fertilizers include an Acid
Mix for plants that prefer lower pH, (blueberry,
strawberry, potato, tomato and squash); or a Super Grow Mix
that has two ingredients for each nutrient, releasing at
different rates.
About the Author:
Life-time gardener Judith Schwader specializes in organic gardening methods. She shares expertise, humor, and advice for your gardening success at A to Z Gardening. Also visit FB Home for additional home and garden information.
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http://www.atozgardening.com/articles/15-organic-fertilizer-recipes.html
Flower Drying Made Simple
by Villette Mastase
http://www.flowerki.com
The first step in flower drying is to make sure the right
flower for the right project is chosen. A basic rule is
that the faster a flower is dried, the more vibrant the
color will remain. However, it must be remembered that the
more heat applied, the more the flower will shrink. By
bearing in mind these factors, the best method can easily
be determined.
Depending on your purpose, there are three main methods of
flower drying to choose from. The application of silica gel
(or proper alternate), drying by use of a dehydrator, or
the absorption of glycerin are the most efficient ways for
turning that blossom into a craft.
Since silica is actually a form of sand, you can substitute
it with clean sand, borax or cornmeal. To use this method,
you will need a dry container with a lid. First, line the
bottom of the container with a thin layer of the gel. Next,
place the flower in the container while adding more gel
around the bloom in order to avoid crushing it. Once it is
secure, sprinkle some gel over top and cover it with the
lid. Let it sit for about a week or until completely dry.
When it is ready, a small paint brush can be used to remove
the silica.
Using a dehydrator is your best bet if you are making
potpourri. This is the speediest method as well as the
most efficient for preserving fragrance. Remember, the more
heat, the quicker your flower will dry.
If you want to keep your flower pliable when it dries, try
using glycerin. Glycerin is used by having the flower
absorb the glycerin. Sometimes glycerin will turn the
leaves and the flower another color.
http://www.atozgardening.com/articles/02-flower-drying-made-simple.html
Gardening Without Pests
by Peres Deturs
http://www.leegardening.com
Deer and raccoons, rabbits and gophers, moles and chipmunks!
They capture your heart when in a book or zoo, but when they
invade your garden. Oh! That’s a different story. Yet how
can a rabbit resist munching on your crisp lettuce? Or a
possum or raccoon stay away from your sweet corn patch? And
your berries will always be attractive to a squirrel.
Unless you have a garden. Then, watch out. Those adorable
bunnies and possums are not quite as cute after they’ve
munched away at the lettuce and stole most of your carrots.
Rest assured, however, there are safe, animal friendly ways
to keep those furry critters from invading and destroying
your garden. For many years, gardeners used pesticides and
other poisons on their fruits and vegetables to deter
animals.These would later be proven to be detrimental to
the people who later washed and ate them.
Birds are probably one of the easiest garden predators
to discourage. They pose slightly less of a threat to a
garden than other animals, but most still prefer to
discourage their presence.Accomplishing that is really quite
simple because birds are easily scared and have many enemies
in nature. A thin, nylon humming line which will vibrate in
even the gentlest wind is an easy solution to a bird
infestation. This is a particularly good deterrent near
strawberry patches, and though humans won~t hear the humming
of the line, the birds will.
A humming line made of very thin nylon will vibrate and
hum in even the slightest breeze. It’s inaudible to us,
but heard by the birds. This works well with strawberries.
Unusual noises can be created with aluminum pie plates
loosely tied to stakes or leaving a radio on at night.
Installing some blinking lights, hawk-like balloons or
kites that mimic larger birds can also be effective.
And of course, the two old stand-bys - scarecrows, or a dog
or cat ~ always help out with the bird problem. Because
birds and other animals need a source of drinking water,
eliminate any standing water near the garden.
Night time is prowl time for the four-legged pests. Each
animal has a distinctive footprint and each has its favorite
delicacy to munch on. Many of them, such as deer and
raccoons, can be eliminated by putting an electric fence or
other barrier around the garden. Pocket gophers can be
stopped by putting a fence made of hardware cloth two feet
below and two feet above the surface of the garden.
A chicken-wire fence works the best for rabbits, but the
holes need to be 1, or smaller. Those young rabbits aren’t
very big. To keep the mice from eating your fruit tree’s
bark, sink wire mesh or hardware cloth several inches
into the ground around the fruit trees.
To keep mice from destroying fruit trees, put wire mesh or a
quarter-inch of hardware cloth at least several inches into
the ground.
Possums will only eat one or two, and then come back later
for another one. Some animals will only be eliminated by
being caught in a trap. After they are caught be sure to
take them at least one mile away and release them in a
natural habitat. And, be careful not to get bitten. Rabies
is a reality among wild animals.
With some thought and a little work, you can keep those
furry friends from turning into garden gremlins.
http://www.atozgardening.com/articles/04-gardening-without-pests.html
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/view_org_research/id/31/
Baking Soda
Baking soda is one of the first alternative products that had university research. Most organic products are available now and the toxic chemicals simply are never needed. They don’t work well anyway.
The research done on baking soda is from Cornell University. Dr. Kenneth Horst and his staff discovered that baking soda mixed with water and sprayed on plants gave very effective fungal disease control. They later discovered the closely related product potassium bicarbonate worked even better and of course the potassium in many parts of the world is more beneficial to the soil than the sodium in baking soda. They also did research on combining products with horticultural oil and also had good to excellent results. In most cases results were as good or even better than toxic fungicides that are on the market. This is a good example though of EPA registered products now that contain potassium bicarbonate that are still ignored by the people that recommend the toxic chemicals. By the way, cornmeal juice works even better. We’ll get the research done someday. In the meantime we just use this wonderful food material with great success.
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/view_org_research/id/32/
Cornmeal
Cornmeal has become one of the staple products that I talk about every day as I’m sure you know but it is confusing. The confusion comes in because there is grocery store cornmeal, horticultural cornmeal, whole ground cornmeal and corn gluten meal.
The research on cornmeal was done by the Texas A&M Research Station in Stephenville. Dr. Joe McFarland headed that work before his retirement. The discovery of cornmeal’s fungal disease control came about by noticing the peanut crops. Under research observation at the research center these crops didn’t have fungal diseases when they followed the corn planting in rotation. Lab tests related to that later discovered the beneficial organisms in cornmeal were as effective or more than chemical fungicides at shutting down fungal diseases. That’s why we now recommend it for use on brown patch in St. Augustine grass, damping off in seedlings, black spot on roses and many other fungal diseases. Dr. Nick Christian’s stuff at Iowa State University discovered the use of corn gluten meal for use as a natural weed and feed. Time to put it out right now before weed seed germination, at 15-20 lbs. per 1,000 square feet.
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/view_org_research/id/33/
Corn Gluten Meal
The research on corn gluten meal was done at Iowa State. Although quite complete, this rearch is ignored by most other Universities. For more on the work, consult the web site.
http://www.gluten.iastate.edu/daily.html
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/view_org_research/id/123/
Composting with Worms
Let worms eat your organic waste! They will happily turn it into some of the best fertilizer on earth - worm compost, otherwise known as worm castings or vermicompost. This is a fascinating, fun, and easy way to recycle your organic kitchen wastes. Worm composting, or vermiculture, requires very little work, produces no offensive odors, and helps plants thrive. Only a few things are needed to make good worm compost: a bin, bedding, worms, and worm food. By following the steps listed below, you will learn to make, take care of, and use your own worm compost.
Worm Bins.
Your bin needs to be only 8-16 deep, since compost worms are surface feeders. You can build your own bin, use a washtub, a dish pan, a used shipping crate, or a commercially available worm bin. Just be sure your bin has a lid to keep out flies and rodents, and holes in the bottom a quarter inch or smaller, for ventilation and drainage. The rule of thumb for bin size is two square feet of surface area per person, or one square foot of surface area per pound of food waste per week. Because worms like moderate temperatures, place your bin in a shady location where it will not freeze or overheat. Here are some good choices: kitchen corner, garage, basement, patio, outside back door, laundry room.
How to build your own worm composter.
Bedding Materials.
Black and white newspaper is the most readily available and easy-to-use bedding material. Tear it into strips about one inch wide and moisten so it is as damp as a wrung-out sponge. Cow or horse manure can be used to lighten bedding and absorb excess moisture. A handful or two of soil, ground limestone, or well-crushed eggshells every few months are good for providing grit and calcium. Fill your bin with moistened bedding, toss in a few handfuls of soil, and you are ready to add the worms and food. Over time, the bedding and food are eaten by the worms and turned into dark worm compost.
Worms.
The best kind of worms for composting are gred worms,h or gred wigglers.h They are often found in old compost piles, but are different from the earthworms you would normally find in the ground. These worms have a big appetite, reproduce quickly, and thrive in confinement. They can eat more than their own weight in food every day! When purchasing red worms, one pound is all you need to get started.
Feeding Your Worms.
Worms like to eat many of the same things we eat, only they arenft so picky. Stale bread, apple cores, orange peels, lettuce trimmings, coffee grounds, and non-greasy leftovers are just some of the food worms love that we usually discard. Here are some basic gdofsh and gdonfts.h Do compost: vegetable scraps, fruit peelings, bread and grains, tea bags, non-greasy leftovers, coffee grounds and filters, well-crushed eggshells. Do not compost: meat, bones, fats, dairy products, rubber bands, twigs and branches, dog and cat feces, greasy foods. Begin feeding your worms only a little at a time. As they multiply, you can add larger quantities of food wastes. Bury the waste into the bedding regularly, rotating around the bin as you go. When you return to the first spot, most of the food you buried there should have been eaten. If not, donft worry. Just feed the worms less for a while.
Harvesting Your Worm Compost.
After you have been feeding your worms for three to six months, you may notice the bedding has been eaten, and you can begin harvesting the brown, crumbly worm compost. Harvesting the compost and adding fresh bedding at least twice a year is necessary to keep your worms healthy.
Here are a few simple methods for collecting your finished worm compost.
Method 1. Move the contents of your worm bin to one side, place fresh bedding in the empty space and bury your food wastes there for a month or so. Harvest the other side after the worms have migrated to the new food and bedding.
Method 2. Remove one-third to one-half of the contents of your bin, worms and all, and add the worm compost to your garden soil. Add fresh bedding and food to your bin.
Method 3. Spread a sheet of plastic out under a bright light or in the sun. Dump the contents of the worm box into a number of piles on the sheet. The worms will crawl away from the light into the center of each pile and you can brush away the worm compost on the outside by hand. Soon you will have wriggling piles of worms surrounded by donut-shaped piles of worm compost.
Using Your Worm Compost.
Worm compost is more concentrated than most other composts because worms are so good at digesting food wastes and breaking them down in their digestive tracts into simple plant nutrients. Use it sparingly for best results.
*
How to mulch and amend soil
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How to use worm compost in houseplants
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How to use worm compost in potting mixes
Mulching and Amending Soil.
To mulch with worm compost, apply a one-inch layer to the soil around plants. Be sure the worm compost is not piled against plant stems. To amend soil, worm compost can be spread one-half to two inches thick over garden soil and mixed in before planting, or mixed into the bottom of seeding trenches or transplanting holes.
1.
Houseplants: Sprinkle worm compost around the base of plants to fertilize. Each time you water, plant nutrients will seep into the soil.
2.
Potting Mixes: For healthy seedlings, mix one part worm compost with three parts potting mix or three parts sand and soil combined. Peat moss, pearlite, and worm castings are also good ingredients to add.
Symptoms
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If your worms are dying
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If your bin smells rotten and/or attracts flies
Worms Dying. If your worms are dying there could be several causes. It may be that they are not getting enough food, which means you should bury food into the bedding. They may be too dry, in which case you should moisten the box until it is slightly damp. They may be too wet, in which case you should add bedding. The worms may be too hot, in which case you should put the bin in the shade. Or, it could be the case that the bedding is eaten, and it is time to add fresh bedding.
Bin Smells. If your bin smells rotten and/or attracts flies, there may be three causes. First, it may be that there is not enough air circulation. In this case, add dry bedding under and over the worms, and do not feed them for two weeks. Second, there may be non-compostables present such as meat, pet feces, or greasy food. These should be removed. Third, there may be exposed food in the bin. In this case, secure the lid, cover food scraps with bedding, and cover worms and bedding with a sheet of plastic.
by Earth 911 Staff on April 2nd, 2007
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/view_org_research/id/26/
Cinnamon Oil Kills Mosquitoes
Contact: Michael Bernstein
202-872-6042
m_bernstein@acs.org
FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE
Cinnamon oil kills mosquitoes
Cinnamon oil shows promise as a great-smelling, environmentally friendly pesticide, with the ability to kill mosquito larvae, according to a new study published in the July 14 issue of the Journal of Agricultural and Food Chemistry, a peer-reviewed journal of the American Chemical Society, the world’s largest scientific society.
The researchers also expect that cinnamon oil could be a good mosquito repellant, though they have not yet tested it against adult mosquitoes.
Besides being a summer nuisance, mosquitoes pose some major public health problems, carrying such deadly agents as malaria, yellow fever and West Nile virus. While conventional pesticide application is often effective in controlling mosquito larvae before they hatch, repeated use of these agents has raised serious environmental and health concerns.
“These problems have highlighted the need for new strategies for mosquito larval control,” says Peter Shang-Tzen Chang, a professor in the School of Forestry and Resource Conservation at National Taiwan University and lead author of the paper. Scientists are increasingly turning to more benign natural chemicals to ward off mosquitoes and other pests.
Chang and his coworkers tested eleven compounds in cinnamon leaf oil for their ability to kill emerging larvae of the yellow fever mosquito, Aedes aegypti. “Four compounds - cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl acetate, eugenol and anethole - exhibited the strongest activity against A. aegypti in 24 hours of testing,” Chang says.
Larvicidal activity is judged with a measurement called LC50. “The LC50 value is the concentration that kills 50 percent of mosquito larvae in 24 hours,” Chang explains. Lower LC50 translates into higher activity, because it takes a lower concentration to kill larvae in the same amount of time. All four compounds had LC50 values of less than 50 parts per million (ppm), with cinnamaldehyde showing the strongest activity at an LC50 of 29 ppm.
Other common essential oils, such as catnip, have shown similar promise in fighting off mosquitoes, but this is the first time researchers have demonstrated cinnamon’s potential as a safe and effective pesticide, according to Chang.
Cinnamaldehyde is the main constituent in cinnamon leaf oil and is used worldwide as a food additive and flavoring agent. A formulation using the compound could be sprayed just like a pesticide, but without the potential for adverse health effects - plus the added bonus of a pleasant smell.
Bark oil from the Cinnamomum cassia tree is the most common source of cinnamaldehyde, but the tree used in this study - indigenous cinnamon, or Cinnamomum osmophloeum - has been of interest to researchers because the constituents of its leaf oil are similar to those of C. cassia bark oil. The leaves of C. osmophloeum, which grows in Taiwan’s natural hardwood forests, could be a more economical and sustainable source of cinnamon oil than isolating it from bark, Chang says.
Though the team only tested the oil against the yellow fever mosquito, cinnamon oil should prove similarly lethal to the larvae of other mosquito species, the researchers say. In further studies they plan to test cinnamon oil against other types of mosquitoes as well as different commercial pesticides.
“We think that cinnamon oil might also affect adult mosquitoes by acting as a repellant,” Chang says. The researchers haven’t yet tested this theory, but they plan to find out in the near future.
The Council of Agriculture of the Executive Yuan, a government agency in Taiwan, provided support for this research.
- Jason Gorss
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/view_org_research/id/103/#
Use Olive Oil
New Year’s Resolution No. 1 for 2007: Prevent Cancer, Use Olive Oil
Science Daily — If you want to avoid developing cancer, then you might want to add eating more olive oil to your list of New Year’s resolutions. In a study to be published in the January 2007 issue of The FASEB Journal, scientists from five European countries describe how the anti-cancer effects of olive oil may account for the significant difference in cancer rates among Northern and Southern Europeans.
The authors drew this conclusion based on the outcomes of volunteers from Denmark, Finland, Germany, Italy, and Spain, who consumed 25 milliliters (a little less than a quarter cup) of olive oil every day for three weeks. During this time, the researchers examined urine samples of the subjects for specific compounds known to be waste by-products of oxidative damage to cells, a precursor to cancer. At the beginning of the trial, the presence of these waste by-products was much higher in Northern European subjects than their Southern European counterparts. By the end of three weeks, however, the presence of this compound in Northern European subjects was substantially reduced.
“Determining the health benefits of any particular food is challenging because of it involves relatively large numbers of people over significant periods of time,” said lead investigator Henrik E. Poulsen, M.D. of Rigshospitalet, Denmark. “In our study, we overcame these challenges by measuring how olive oil affected the oxidation of our genes, which is closely linked to development of disease. This approach allows us to determine if olive oil or any other food makes a difference. Our findings must be confirmed, but every piece of evidence so far points to olive oil being a healthy food. By the way, it also tastes great.”
Another interesting finding in the study suggests that researchers are just beginning to unlock the mysteries of this ancient “health food.” Specifically, the researchers found evidence that the phenols in olive oil are not the only compounds that reduced oxidative damage. Phenols are known antioxidant compounds that are present in a wide range of everyday foods, such as dark chocolate, red wine, tea, fruits, and vegetables. Despite reducing the level of phenols in the olive oil, the study’s subjects still showed that they were receiving the same level of health benefits.
“Every New Year people make resolutions that involve eating less fat to improve their health,” said Gerald Weissmann, MD, Editor-in-Chief of The FASEB Journal. “This academically sound, practically useful study shows that what you eat is just as important as how much you eat. No wonder Plato taught wisdom in an olive grove called Academe.”
The FASEB Journal (http://www.fasebj.org) is published by the Federation of American Societies for Experimental Biology (FASEB) and is consistently ranked among the top three biology journals worldwide by the Institute for Scientific Information. FASEB comprises 21 nonprofit societies with more than 80,000 members, making it the largest coalition of biomedical research associations in the United States. FASEB’s mission is to enhance the ability of biomedical and life scientists to improve — through their research — the health, well-being, and productivity of all people. FASEB serves the interests of these scientists in those areas related to public policy, facilitates coalition activities among member societies, and disseminates information on biological research through scientific conferences and publications.
Note: This story has been adapted from a news release issued by Federation of American Societies for Experimental Biology.
Source:Federation of American Societies for Experimental Biology
Date: December 12, 2006
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/view_org_research/id/43/
Vinegar
USDA “Vinegar as an Herbicide” Information Page
USDA press release on vinegar
USDA greenhouse and field research have been conducted at Beltsville, Maryland, to determine the efficacy of vinegar for controlling weeds. The results indicate that vinegar can kill several important weed species at several growth stages. Vinegar at 10, 15 or 20 % acetic acid concentration provided 80-100 percent kill of selected annual weeds, including giant foxtail up to 3 inches in height, common lambsquarters up to 5 inches, smooth pigweed up to 6 inches, and velvetleaf up to 9 inches. Control of annual weeds with vinegar at the 5 % acetic acid concentration was variable. Canada thistle shoots were highly susceptible with 100 percent kill by 5 % vinegar.
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/view_org_research/id/38/
Orange Oil
One of the most interesting specific products that I talk about that has a considerable amount of research is orange oil. Orange oil can be used in gardening and pest control in several ways.
One of the fire ant products that is currently on the market and has EPA registration for fire ant control is Safer’s Fire Ant Control. It used to be called Citrex so you may have heard me talk about it in the past. It is an orange oil or d-limonene product that has very detailed research both from Texas A&M in the field and the University of Texas at Austin in the lab. The product is currently owned by the Woodstream Company and is sold under the name Safer Fire Ant Control Give it a try. It works very well. Another orange oil product with the research behind it needed for its EPA approval is Orange Guard. It is registered for the control of many household insect pests. There are of course many other uses for orange oil and its extract called d-limonene. Just a few of the products include air fresheners, cleaners and soil detox products. Why use toxic chemicals when non-toxic food products work just as well.
Orange Oil is available commercially, or you can make your own:
Put a bunch of citrus peelings in a container and cover them with water.
Let them sit for a couple of days, then strain off the liquid. You can extract more oil by simmering the peelings.
The strength of homemade orange oil varies significantly, so you will have to experiment when using it in recipes. It is impossible to duplicate the concentration of commercial orange oil or
d-limonene.
Orange oil is a pleasant smelling solvent. Commercial d-limonene at full strength can replace a wide variety of products, including mineral spirits, methly ethyl ketone, acetone, toluene and glycol ethers. Be careful when using strong solutions since it can melt plastic and ruin paint finishes. For most practical purposes, 1 - 2 ounces per gallon of water should be the maximum concentration.
[I buy Orange Essential Oil for cleaning, and use a few drops in my dishwashing.
It is the cheapest of the essential oils, now about $8.00 per pound, or 8 ounces in the bottle.
granny
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/view_question/id/558/
Ants & Grits
Abamectin is the natural product of a fungus, Streptomyces avermitilis, and is commercially available for killing mites and other insects including but not limited to ants and roaches. See Fire ants or the specific ants you have.
Grits for Ant Control
We have found that corn grits work better than orange oil. Use the regular or quick grits, not the instant grits.
The latter have already been expanded. If in doubt, check the weight on the box and the quick grits will be at least twice as heavy for the same volume as the instant grits.
We find that the quick grits work much better than the orange oil which has the tendency to kill grass. The grits kill all of the ants within 1 to 2 days while the orange oil may not. For that matter, grits works just as fast as most pesticides. But, the ants may come back as they will continue to hatch. In that situation, just apply more grits.
As far as the dried molasses and beneficial nematodes, ours were doing fine until late August. Before then if a mound started, the ants would die out within 3 or 4 days. But, with the hot, dry weather I believe the we have lost some of our nematodes near the surface. Some mounds do die, but some get large and have required the grits.
My wife claims she like to listen to the ants going pop.
David Griffith, Plano
Here is my take on why grits or cornmeal can inhibit Fire Ants.
Fire Ants vary their diet seasonly. Typically they go after proteins more in the Summer(worms or dead bugs or meats or animal oils, etc.). In the Fall and Winter, they diet more on carbohydrates. This is when starches (grains) are more appealing to their diet.
Probably what makes the cornmeal (or the cornmeal nature of grits) more effective in inhibiting Fire Ants is that they feed this to substance to their larvae in order to break it down into a digestible food source for the adult Fire Ants. Their food source normally is based upon a type of fungal breakdown in concert with their young. This is inhibited by the cornmeal. The antifungal nature of the cornmeal/grits upsets this feeding cycle where the adults can not obtain their final food product (a fungus-based food secreted via the larvae). Essentially, the Fire Ants start to starve because their primary food source isn’t happening — it has been “infected” as a result of the antifungal activities of the grits or cornmeal.
Some of the details of this cycle might be rough around the edges on my rendition, but this is probably why people find success with grits this time of year. In the summer, grits will probably be less effective.
I am no Scientist, but I do a lot of research along with experimentation in the real world.
Tom Theimer
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/view_question/id/758/
Aphids
Common names: Aphid, Plant Louse, Greenbug, Ant Cow
Scientific name: Order Homoptera, family Aphididae, many species
Size: Adult—approximately 1/10”
Identification: Small soft-bodied insects of all colors, pear-shaped, with long legs and antennae. The most common color is green, but many species are black, red, yellow, or bluish. Adults are winged and wingless; they usually have a pair of tubes (cornicles) sticking out of the upper end of the abdomen. These tubes spray an oil or waxy fluid on enemies. Aphids also produce a sticky honeydew excretion that ants love; whitish skin casts are left after molts. Some species like the woolly aphids are covered with a waxy white coating.
Biology and life cycle: In general, eggs are laid in fall and hatch in spring. Nymphs feed in masses by sucking plant sap. These aphids are mostly females that give birth to live young. Sometimes a generation of winged aphids appears and migrates to a new host plant where they feed and produce more wingless females. A generation of true males and females appears in late summer or early fall when temperatures start to drop. These aphids mate, and the females lay eggs that overwinter and hatch the following spring to start the process all over. During warm weather, aphids may go through a complete generation in less than two weeks. They have an incomplete metamorphosis.
Habitat:
You name it. Most ornamental and fruit crops. Foliage of plants, especially the underside of leaves and stems on tender new growth.
Feeding habits: Aphids normally feed in groups on leaves or stems. They pierce foliage or tender stems and suck plant juices, causing leaf curling and stunted growth. The digested sap is excreted as the honeydew commonly seen shining on foliage. Some feed on roots.
Economic importance: Aphids reduce the health of stressed plants even further, roll or turn foliage yellow (reducing photosynthesis), and ultimately kill plants. On the positive side, they help to eliminate unfit plants. Some aphids are vectors of disease organisms like viruses.
Natural control: Plant adapted varieties and encourage natural biodiversity, healthy plants, and beneficial insects such as ladybugs, green lacewings, hover flies, praying mantids, and braconid wasps. Avoid feeding plants heavy amounts of nitrogen.
Organic control: Strong blasts of water, garlic-pepper tea, liquid seaweed, and the release of ladybugs and green lacewings. Citrus oil spray can be used for heavy infestations. Biological sprays are also now available. Plant oil products will also work.
To control aphids, plant adapted varieties, encourage biodiversity especially beneficial insects such as ladybugs, lacewings, hover flies, and predatory wasps. Avoid heavy amounts of fertilizers. Spray infested plants with strong blasts of sugar water and release ladybugs. Garlic-pepper tea, Garrett Juice with garlic, neem, and citrus oil based sprays will also help.
Insight: Aphids, one of the most prolific insects, are considered one of our biggest pests. There are over 200 species. They may produce up to fifty generations per year. Some species produce several generations without mating. The females can lay eggs or give live birth, and those already have within them developing embryos for the next generation. The young can be born with or without wings. It all depends on whether they need to migrate away from a natural enemy or to a better food supply. The life cycle varies widely between different species and may even vary within the same species in different geographical locations.
With all of their life-sustaining abilities, you would think that aphids would soon destroy all vegetation. But they don’t. They have lots of natural enemies in the insect world; more important, healthy, well-grown, and adapted plants have immunity to them. Heavy applications of nitrogen fertilizer will actually attract aphids.
For more information about this and other insects, get Howard Garrett and Malcolm Beck’s book – Texas Bug Book – the Good, the Bad and the Ugly.
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/view_question/id/133/
Peat Moss As a Food Preservative
Doug Mellgren - Associated Press Writer
Viking’s preservative Peat moss could save food industry millions of dollars.
OSLO, Norway – Researchers are looking at an old Viking trick – peat moss – as a way of preserving foods and saving millions of dollars per year in refrigeration and transport costs.
A millennium ago, the Vikings used water from peat moss bogs because it would stay fresh during their months of sailing aboard longboats. Scandinavian freshwater fishermen traditionally used peat bogs to preserve their catches until they could pick them up on their way out of the mountains.
It still works, says Dr. Terence Painter, professor emeritus Norwegian University of Science and Technology in Trondheim.
Fish buried in peat moss or treated with a moss extract stayed fresh weeks longer than untreated fish.
“Definitely, deep freezing and quick filleting are the best way to preserve fish … but it is also darned expensive,” Painter says. “We have all kinds of idealistic ideas about expanding the market for Norwegian fish in countries that cannot now afford it.”
Peat bogs have long been known for preserving organic material. In Scotland, tubs of butter have been found intact after 1,800 years; elsewhere, a loaf of bread thousands of years old was found.
“We seem to have forgotten a lot of this ancient wisdom,” he said.
But Painter, a British-born biochemist who has lived in Norway for 33 years, said what really piqued his curiosity was the 1984 discovery of a fully preserved ancient human body, known as the Lindlow man, in Britain.
Norway, a major exporter of fish caught by trawlers and raised on fish farms, has about 2 billion tons of peat. Little is used, so Painter was seeking industrial applications.
“I thought if it will preserve a body, it ought to be able to preserve a fish,” he said.
Researchers long believed organic material lasted in peat bogs due to a lack of oxygen preventing decay or the presence of a chemical called tannins acting as preservatives.
Painter and his associates Yngve Boersheim and Bjoern Christensen isolated a complex sugar in sphagnum moss, which forms peat bogs after hundreds of years. They set out to prove that the sugar, which they have named sphagnum, was the real preservative in a variety of tests in a government-funded study.
In one test, they buried salmon skins in peat moss or coated them with the extract and did the same with control skins buried in wood cellulose for nine to 28 days. After removal, fish stored in the peat or extract stayed fresh for up to a month, while the non-treated fish stank after two days.
In other tests, the researchers treated ¾-inch long Zebra fish with peat or extract and left others untreated. After two weeks, the treated fish were fine, while the untreated ones had virtually vanished due to decay.
In a demonstration for the Norwegian state radio network NRK, Christensen opened a plastic container in which a Zebra fish had been stored on peat for two years. It was intact and smelled fine.
“When you take a fish and put it on the peat, it will be preserved in a very special way,” Christensen said. “If you had put it in anything else, it would have rotted away and smelled back in a couple of days.”
Painter said freezing fish and shipping it in refrigerated ships or trucks is extremely expensive, while drying fish, although cheaper, removes nutrients.
His team is looking into ways that the fish could be shipped in peat, or even better treated before shipment with the complex sugar, which appears to slow attack by bacteria that causes decay.
Fish isn’t the only food that may be preserved. Painter said his team has had success with apples, carrots, radishes and other vegetables.
“Norwegians had a tradition of storing their root plants, such as carrots and turnips, in peat bogs to preserve them,” he said.
Painter also said there is little chance that it would be harmful to humans, since many villages in places like Finland draw all their drinking water from peat bogs.
The researchers have received a Norwegian government grant to start a pilot project testing commercial applications. Painter said it is not clear when the first commercial uses could begin.
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/view_question/id/424/
Gardening by the Moon
I do recommend planting by the moon but have to be honest and say that I am not very knowledgeable on the subject. I do know that planting plants that produce fruit and seed above ground should be planted during the first two quarters during the increasing light of the moon. Root crops such as carrots or potatoes should be planted during the decreasing light of the moon in the 3rd quarter. Nothing should be planted from seed in the last quarter. That’s the time to do weeding, plant removal, etc. The best book on this subject is Llewellyn’s Moon Sign Book which is published annually.
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/view_question/id/30/
Insect control (General)
Most insects are beneficial - that’s right. Even the ones we consider pests like aphids and spider mites are doing a service. They are telling us by their presence that the infested plants are sick. The plants are in stress because of other real problems like too much or too little sun, water, fertilizer or some other imbalance. Poor plant selection is often the cause of pest problems. The BOP and the release of beneficial insects will control most insect pests.
On the other hand, occasional insect pest infestations can be handled easily with organic products. Insect pests in general can be controlled with garlic, neem or citrus products. Caterpillars can be controlled with Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) products. Hot pepper sprays will also help to control many pests. The Garden-Ville Fire Ant Control formula will control most pests.
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/view_question/id/2607/
Homemade Cultured Vegetables
Making fermented or cultured veggies such as Sauerkraut or Kim Chi is a great way to preserve and enhance the nutritional value of winter veggies from your garden or market such as cabbage and root veggies.
These foods have been used since ancient times for their medicinal benefits. Captain Cook sailed with large barrels of sauerkraut which supplied his crew with vitamin C and prevented scurvy. Fermented veggies not only add a nice extra bite to many a dish, but also add a powerful nutritional punch as well. When vegetables are cultured, the Lactobacillus acidophilus and other beneficial bacteria break down the sugars and cell walls in the vegetables making them much easier to digest.
Our gut is directly connected to our immune system. When we consume cultured veggies on a regular basis, we strengthen our immunity by enhancing the flora of our gut. This beneficial flora not only fights off dangerous invaders such as microbes and pathogens, but also produces vitamins and converts nutrients into neurotransmitters such as serotonin. Cultured veggies are said to have hundreds of times the amount of nutrients as veggies that have not been cultured. Simply eating a few bites of something fermented with your meals will not only help you digest your meals, but will also promote good energy and health.
Ingredients:
Equipment – 1-2 quart size mason jars; large mixing bowl
4 cups of shredded cabbage – cut into thin slices; save some whole, large leaves
2 tablespoons sea salt
(the following ingredients are optional; cut all veggies into thin slices):
2 carrots
1 daikon radish
1 turnip
1 bunch scallions
2 tablespoons fresh grated, peeled ginger
2 cloves garlic - slices
Dried red chili (this will make it a little spicy)
Spices: Cumin, coriander, fennel, dill, caraway, mustard seeds
Instructions:
There are many different ways to make sauerkraut or fermented veggies. The old fashioned method involves pounding. There are other new methods which involve juicing or blending. Some methods call for added probiotics. This method is my favorite and it involves massaging. I learned it from Jessica Prentice who wrote the wonderful book, Full Moon Feast.
Simply mix all veggies and/or spices together in a large bowl and sprinkle with salt. Massage mixture with your hands for 5-10 minutes until lots of juices are released. Then place veggie mixture into jars and press down so veggies are tightly packed.
You want the juice to cover the veggies while leaving 1 inch of space from the top of the jar. If you do not have enough liquid to cover your kraut, add some brine which you can make by dissolving 1 teaspoon of salt in 1/3 cup of water. Fold the large cabbage leaves and press them down over your massaged vegetable mixture. Make sure the liquid is also covering the large cabbage leaves. If any of the veggies are exposed to air, they will rot and may turn brown. If this happens, simply remove this part and press your veggies down again under the brine.
The ideal fermenting temperature is 60-65 degrees. When fermented in a jar, this process can take from 3 days up to 1 week. Cover with a tight fitting lid. You can check on your kraut every few days or so, but make sure not to contaminate it with your hands or a fork you have used.
You know your kraut is fermenting when you see little bubbles and when you hear a fiz or slight pop when you open the jar. You can stop the process anytime by placing your fermented veggies in the fridge. They will continue to ferment, but much more slowly. Enjoy this ancient method of preserving vegetables and enhancing your health!
http://www.dirtdoctor.com/organic/garden/view_question/id/2274/
This recipe is very simple and is also gluten and refined sugar free. You can’t get much better than fresh strawberries and whip cream. Strawberries are one of the first fruits of spring and are great to facilitate spring cleansing. Strawberries are rich in Vitamin C and Silicon. They are useful for arterial and all connective tissue repair. They can also help to relieve urinary difficulties and can help to improve a poor appetite, relieve a sore throat and hoarseness.
Make sure you use organic berries as strawberries that are conventionally grown tend to have high levels of pesticides. Many people that are allergic to strawberries are allergic because they are eating berries that are not vine ripened.
If you can not find organic or fresh strawberries, you can substitute any other berry that is fresh and available.
Ingredients:
1 pint fresh organic strawberries
2 cups heavy cream – preferably raw and organic
1 cup -dates
1 cup - pecans
4 Tablespoons Maple Syrup or Agave
1 teaspoon – Vanilla extract
¼ teaspoon – good salt
Instructions:
1. Make the crust: Place dates in food processor and grind till chopped up into small pieces. Then add pecans and grind for a few seconds more until chopped together. Press this mixture into a tart pan or a pie dish. Place in freezer and let chill for 30 minutes of more.
2. Wash and slice strawberries lengthwise. Toss with 2 Tablespoons of either Maple or Agave. You can use organic sugar if you do not have these sweeteners. Place berries in refrigerator and let cool for 30 minutes.
3. Whip the cream and add vanilla and remaining maple or agave.
4. Once chilled, layer berries onto crust and spread whip cream on top. It may fall apart a bit when you cut into it and serve it. Serve with a sprig of mint on top.
Enjoy!!!
One year I decided I HAD it with the ugly fireplace. He was at work. The sledgehammer and crow bar were home with me.
You can guess..., ;)
I got a really pretty new mantle out of that one....bringing me right back to...those tools!!!<<<
I think that I could sell you “those” tools.
Why not ask for them for a Mother’s Day gift?
Then you would have them, if HE needed to use them.
It is difficult to start letting go of your things, a garage sale and some extra money and extra space would be nice.
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