"If it's brown drink it down, if its black send it back". - Homer J. Simpson
Posted on 10/11/2006 5:45:07 PM PDT by Miztiki
The ring. And no, I won't post a link. It creeps me out.
Here's my thread from yesterday describing the symptoms:
http://www.freerepublic.com/focus/f-chat/1716689/posts
Post 54 & 57 are about what the well guy had to say and how it's working now.
Thanks again to everyone for the help. You're all wunnerful!
Yea two problems. The one who worked on it {according to post in other thread said water log. That and the filter {not needed really} 3-5 minutes to fill an empty tank is about right. What puzzles me is it's an 80 gallon tank? That's a plenty big enough even for a large family and a non bladder tank. My parents have a 50 gallon and 8 people have lived there with no problems.
It sounds like {if there is one} the strainer at the pump may be partially clogged but would not mean a new pump though. My well is about 180' deep and I keep the pump at 160' so it doesn't suck sludge, gravel etc. But if I was going to pull a pump to have a look see on the strainer etc I'd replace it. I use flexible black water line and it's still a pill. I built a pulley system above the well so all I have to do is turn the handle and wind it up to me :>}
Geeze, I love FReeRepublic! The knowledge you find here is unsurpassed. We need to start a commune!
(Just kidding!!!!!)
Eventually, the rust "should" clear out (unless it is iron bacteria..., which, though unsightly, is not a health hazard..., it may build up the iron in your blood?). If you are going to stay in the house for some time, I would invest in a good fiberglass bladder tank and scrap that galvanized item. As for iron removal, there are specific water treatment filter units (far different from the little sediment filter which was installed on your system). Do a google search on water treatment and you'll get a full education on the issue.
If you look on the inside of the plastic cover on the pressure switch, you will see what the "cut-on/cut-off" pressures are. Most switches are 20 or 30 "cut-on" and 40 or 50 "cut off". If yours is a 20-40 switch unit, 39 pounds of pressure is "right on" (the pressure switches can be adjusted a few pounds either side of the factory setting and, given the fact that the gauges are not precise... 39 pounds of pressure may actually be 37 to 42 pounds in actuality.
Just recognize that, unlike "city water", your water pressure is never going to be as much as you wish it was..., but you get used to it!
BTW, 3 minutes to reach "cut-off" from "cut-on" is fairly normal for a non-bladder tank of your apparent size (80 gallons?)! Also, for future reference, the bladder tanks, due to their construction, are equal to much larger non-bladder tank sizes. Also, the larger your tank, the less often your pump will have to cycle and the longer it will last (it is the "on-offs" which wear..., just like your heart beats..., you only have so many available for the life of the unit (whether a water pump or a heart)! So, if you get a new bladder tank, don't "save" on the size..., tanks are a LOT less expensive to replace than submerible pumps!!!
"If it's brown drink it down, if its black send it back". - Homer J. Simpson
When i did well service, we would hand pull anything under 400', but that was when i was 22, right out of the service.
We had a rig we mounted on the welhead with 3 small tires and one was motorized to pull pumps. It was usually more of a pain to use than manually pulling unless they were really deep.
You have posted great answers on both threads.
Are you suggesting I should go and see it? ;~)
In a poll of scary movie scenes,
the one were she crawls out of the TV was the top vote getter.
A couple of sources for the story but in light of recent events this one stood out.
>Was he wrong saying that a filter isn't necessary?
ABSOLUTELY! I changed the old filter three times in the past 18 months and everytime I changed it, the old filter was full of brown fine particles. Check my email. Get hold of the guy and ask him to put a paper filter. The carbon filter causes a restriction in flow.
He was also wrong in putting the filter housing on the other side of the tank (if that's what he did). This way the tank will get full of sediments.
Finally, an 80 gallon tank is more than enough and not too small as he said.
I love it too, the little odd threads that expose the experts. LIke wells, I never knew a thing about wells but someone here does.
But a commune? We would fall out in two days. All these strong willed opinionated people.
Thanks, after 50+ years of having to deal with both shallow and deep wells (as an occupant/owner of homes with these), I've learned a bit about their "care & feeding"..., Just as I have with respect to septic tanks and drain fields!
exactly, it is pipe rust. lost of iron ore. little too much to consume though, try to filter it a bit. or get bottled water.
I'm betting it's the 12th Imam.
I hope you never ever use Rid-x!
First, it is vital that you have your raw well-water sampled and analyzed at a laboratory who specializes in water analyses. The colour could be an indicator of naturally occurring iron associated with the groundwater but it also could be a type of iron bacteria and of course it could a number of other issues.
I would also suggest that you retain the services of a well expert (usually he/she is a professional engineer or geoscientist and called a hydrogeologist) to come out and assess your water well and determine if there are any sources of pollution near your well and if your well is acting as a pathway for sources of contamination to enter the well. The qualified professional can also sample your well properly and offer an interpretation of the analysis.
Feel free to give me a PM and we can talk privately some more.
No, Rid-X and its competitors' products are merely expensive "snake oil"!
Mmmmmm....
Freep mail me I have a well and some sugestions to clear it up
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