Posted on 01/02/2021 6:59:49 AM PST by Onthebrink
Please explain more about why you use the Mobil 1 diesel oil. My questions are why, on what parts, and in what quantity. I’m looking to learn. Thanks
My last build was a 10.5" upper from Palmetto, and their one of their lower kits. The lower itself was from Spike's Tactical. I've used one Geissle triggers before, and actually pulled it. While it felt real nice, it was too lightweight with very little creep. Benchrest shooting, probably a dream; but that's not what I wanted.
I think the $80 investment in the Larue trigger has been well worth it; but I'm like you, spending hundreds of dollars for my needs is just a waste. The Larue drops right in, and has a secondary spring in case you want a slightly heavier trigger pull; but I like the 4.5lb spring.
No ARs here....just one old single-shot TC Encore with a worn-out barrel.
AR500 was running some real good deals recently. Just keep your eyes open.
That's about the best single upgrade I can think of.
I never said the chainsaw wasn’t a great mod for sharks. In fact, I’d love to afford one.
Best mod for a standard AR 15 is to shim the barrel and the pins on the upper/lower. Very little cost and relatively simple to do with the right tools, but will make even a cheap Delton kit into a tack driver. We have done several and every one resulted in very significant improvement in accuracy. Add good optics and good to go.
pretty much anywhere you would use CLP (what my Drill Sergeant referred to as CUM ‘cause it looked like it).
Among the HPR shooters I’ve hung out with, with a combined several centuries’ experience in what works, the prevailing thinking regarding a high grade synthetic diesel oil is simple:
1 - it’s cheap. A quart will last a lifetime under most gunowners’ use.
2 - consider the working environment of a modern-day diesel engine. Heat, friction, soot/carbon contamination and how these oils are developed to adhere and perform under such conditions.
3 - decades of use have shown - to me, at least a half dozen friends and a few gunsmiths - that any and all other products are snake oil at best, repackaged/processed synthetics, and wear and tear seems to be less in guns where diesel engine oil are used as compared to anything else.
And WTF needs PTFE in anything?
But I’ve only been shooting actively since about 1973 - not counting my grandfather teaching me to use a Stevens Favorite rolling block single shot model 15 .22LR when I was five.
I have a Dillon reloading press I’ve kept a running count of rounds I’ve put through it and it’s well over 80,000, an earlier press I sold had over 60,000, this isn’t counting HPR handloads (.223, 30-30, .308, .300WM,.338 LPM, .375H&H mag, .458 WM) and specialty loads like .44-40,.45 Colt, .380acp, others.
I’ve owned several hundred different guns of one type or another including class III, am a certified pistol instructor since 1999, I have some experience.
Ask around. Go to any shooter forum and ask “what’s the best lube” and wait for the absolutes to come pouring out.
I use what I use. It works for me.
YMMV.
I’ll still use my lever action Marlin 30-30. You don’t need multiple shots if you hit the first time.
I added a bayonet, slingshot, compound bow, AND crossbow since there’s no ammo.
Very true. As an engineer it baffles me why a product is designed around failures. The jam button on the AR is a good example. Don’t fix the problem, complicate the design and make a work around for the original problem. Sounds like government work.
+1 on the synthetic diesel oil.
I’ve been shooting since I was just a little fella waaaayy back there in the early 60’s.
I’ve done tried just about all of em over the years...some were good, a few were quite messy, a lot of em were way over-priced and some of em just plain sucked.
As you stated: syn diesel oil is relatively inexpensive, a little goes a good long ways and, most of all, it works and works good.
It works great for me too, but I’m only putting a drop or two on the hinge pin of my old single-shot TC Encore with a worn out barrel once a year..... but to each his own....whaddaever one thinks works.
Not familiar with what you suggest- adding shims to the barrel and pins on the upper/lower.
A relative owns a Delton and likes it, so I am game to improve it once I understand what the heck you are suggesting. ;-)
An AR-10 in .308, ready to rock and roll is a lot heavier in my experience than a .223 AR-15.
I would not want to carry a big ole AR-10 on a ruck.
Instead on modding your AR, be sure you have spares for what might break or get broken/ lost.
I have one that weighs in under 7 lbs without a scope.
Save the money and buy another AR, cause two is one and one is none.
Rather than spend a lot of money on a new fancy trigger do two things. First take the trigger apart and use a very fine honing or sharpening stone on the wear or sliding surfaces of the trigger. Then get a small jar of Moly grease and use that on those surfaces of the trigger. The great thing about Moly grease is that if will plate the irregularities in the surface of the trigger making the trigger much smoother the more you shoot. It is a trick I learned from bench-rest shooters at the range I belong to.
Next, optics. As the article say, it depends on what you want to do. Generally, any optic pretty much slows down the ability to get off a quick shot on a target. If you look at most traditional African dangerous game rifles (where your life depends on a quick accurate shot) they have large open sights (no peep sights). Most AR-15 sites are really not suitable for close to moderate distance fast shots. Some “iron” (most likely plastic) sights allow you to choose between peep sight and open notch type sights. If I were to choose between red (or green) dot sight or scope, I would go with a variable power scope of 2x to 7x. As any non-iron sight means you are going to take a relatively slowly aimed shot. The variable scope will allow you to dial in for best choice of field of view (needed for follow-up shots) versus pin point accuracy at highest magnification.
Right now just about nothing is available at a reasonable cost in terms of parts for an AR-15. If you are going to try to get anything, my suggestion would be extra large capacity magazines and a few 10 round magazines, just in case Biden's BAFT gets too crazy.
“All of my ARs were lost in tragic boating accidents.”
If anyone needs a free AR they need only take a boat and diving gear into a nearby lake and jump off and look around. Based on the millions of gun owners’ testimony there are dozens of em off of every shore sitting on the bottom. Just clean and oil and ammo-up and you’re on your way. (sarc.)
Put JP Enterprises reduced power springs in your trigger group to lighten the pull. Should take a pound off your pull. Easy to do and works well. Does not create any safety issues. I often shoot crappy Russian steel ammo with hard primers and have never experienced a light strike or misfire.
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