Anybody ever use Rough Country lift kits?

6/20/2017 | Self

[wally_bert]

A weaker than well water F-134.

It has a 2 bbl. Weber on it though. A noticeable improvement over the one barrel.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e4kDxBvvf3w

I’ve done some straightening up some since then.

[wally_bert]

I will look at it.

Thank you.

[Lean-Right]

Hello fellow Jeeper.
I currently own a 1979
CJ7 and a 2006 Wrangler
Rubicon, and am a
mechanical engineer by
trade.
I’ve owned a Jeep of one
model or another for many
years. I ran a Skyjacker
2” lift on a J10. Very
bouncy stiff ride. The
spring rate was too high.
Switched out the
Skyjacker for a set of
Rancho Springs with a two
inch lift. The ride is
much improved. Tires are
BFG 32X10.50X15. Sidewall
flex is minimal which
illuminates some of the
bounce. Shocks are Rancho
RS9 adjustable.
The springs on the Rubicon
are coils, ProComp
3” lift, RS9 shocks,w/a
Rubicon Express short arm
kit.
I wheel with a friend who
ran a Wrangler Skyjacker
coil suspension kit
(bushings, springs, shocks,
track bar, and steering
stabilizer). After he
borrowed my Jeep for a day,
he has set his up the same
as mine.

[OregonRancher]

Check out my ‘03 Rubicon on http://clearlidz.com/

[Rio]

Nothing wrong with that. It’s all in the gearing. I knew a couple of guys who went to great lengths to get 327s put in there.

[wally_bert]

That’s a squeeze.

I made it a point to de-clutter the compartment.

If it only had a Dauntless V6......

Say something chronic happens to the 134, I might be a little more open to modernizing if possible and not too whacked out costly. There is a crowd down the interstate that has done stuff like that.

There are re-man 134 long blocks for at least now.

Other than a little valve clicking on #1 sometimes, the engine seems tight.

Putting in a electronic ignition did so much.

I’m 50/50 on doing the kit myself for a few reasons. Sending it to that shop has been a back burner for a while.

Logistically, I’m in weird situation here in the burbs. The spouse has 0 interest in it and with that, any kind of moral support or much else.

I won’t lift the CJ7 or the Blazer.

A knockoff replacement OEM spring set costs almost as much as the skyjacker kit. I’ve had some grief with the knockoff stuff.

I get the Willys roadworthy, it can live in the backyard. Getting the CJ7 home where doing the rest of the jobs I want would follow.

The blazer for the short term will live part time at the folk’s place. Long story.

[wally_bert]

I have never heard of clearlidz until now. That is a neat product.

Nice looking 03, I like the wheels especially.

Thanks for sharing.

[wally_bert]

I can see why your friend liked yours.

My other one is a project 82 CJ7. I got it fairly cheap since the engine was bad.

I looked at it as a chance to have one my way for the most part.

It’s partially disassembled.

I’m going with the idea of if I build it, it will come.

It’s gotten some body parts swapped, a few pieces installed, some stockpiled for later.

The biggies will be a painless harness and a replacement engine.

It has a 6-258 and I guess that’s what will go in it. As much as I would love a V8, I’ll have to pass probably.

Something like a Vortec V6 would be nice though.

My dad has a 69 Willys with the Dauntless V6. That is one peppy little motor.

[Seruzawa]

If you aren’t going to utilize it off road don’t lift it. Jeeps have enough rolling problems as it is.

[11Bush]

Had a '79 CJ-5 with a V6-258 w/manual trans. Not the fastest in an A to B race but it could climb any trees that were in the way.

Just past 150K it blew a rod on the DC Beltway going about 70. Looked like someone hit me with a stinger MPAD. Got a used 258 from the junk yard and it went another 50k until I gave it to my Dad.

[wally_bert]

Very light off-road is the most I have in mind. Good enough for light go pro fodder.

2 inches isn’t much. I would never, ever go over that in a jeep.

Jeeps springs in old CJs tend to sag on the driver’s rear or at least the majority I’ve seen and the ones I had.

The project CJ7 will not be lifted. I like it just the way it is in that regard.

http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah208/Todd4077/cj7%20project%201-0284%20reduced_zps9eljii7g.jpg

Ditto project K5:

http://i1381.photobucket.com/albums/ah208/Todd4077/1977%20k5%20blazer%202_zpsp0jtbyxy.jpg

[Lean-Right]

You can swap out that 6
banger with a AMC V-8.
Simple process with
virtually no engine mount
mods. I run a .030 over
360 cid w/401 heads in mine.
The main problem with the AMC
V-8’s are the crankshaft oil galleries,
(need to be chamfered) and the oil galleries
at the rear of the heads. The engine blocks
have a high nickle content and are
are a little tougher to machine, but
all in all, AMC v-8’s
are pretty durable. A
big plus for me is having
the distributor up front
eliminating mods to the
firewall. Just some stuff
to consider. AMC engines
are still out there, but
parts will be a little
higher priced.

[axxmann]

Find out what the spring rates are. You want the softest springs possible.

[Mat_Helm]

2004 TJ Rubicon with Rubicon Express 2" Budget Boost with 32" GDYR MTR's on 15"x"8 allows flex without rubbing ridding on stock longer Rubicon springs. This is with the Bilstein Montube shocks. Bilstein shocks make a big difference. Considered a 4" lift using pro comp or Old Man Emu with short arm kit, but love the lower center of gravity and don't do serious rock climbing so much. Added a dirtworx bumper with tire carrier and jerry can holder using lunette hitch pulling a Canadian MC101 surplus trailer.

[wally_bert]

Sticker shock is why an AMC V8 probably won’t happen but I haven’t ruled it out completely. I’d love a 360/401, don’t get me wrong.

Every AMC V8 seemed to have lifter problems eventually. A lot of them in the passenger rear and probably due in part to the oil galleries in the back like you mentioned.

The possibility of an engine swap is at the earliest end of the year so who knows by then what the bank book might allow?

That CJ7 is the lowest priority of the three since it’s the furthest away.

[mad_as_he$$]

Skyjacker if you are going to trail it. Rough Country if it will be a mall cruiser. Be aware Rough Country has a rep for the parts not fitting exactly. Not sure it is deserved because older Jeeps are all over the place with frame dimensions.

[mad_as_he$$]

I would not swap an engine from a Jeep and put in an AMC V-8 anything. I would look at 4.0 or a Chevy 4.3 either one with FI.

JMHO.

[GBA]

Cool Jeep!

Fwiw, another vote for ARB's OME suspensions.

I've installed their springs, shocks and struts on my current truck and on last truck and am very happy with their products.

They make the good stuff.

[DBG8489]

Hey,

I just did this to my CJ7 about two months ago. Rather than use a kit, I decided to buy the individual parts to get what I wanted at each step. It was a little more expensive, but the ride of the OME springs is amazing both on and off road.

And I heard terrible things about Rough Country, but nothing too bad about Skyjacker if you want to go the kit route.

If not, you can do the same thing I did:

Get OME lifted YJ springs - the HD ones - all rears. You will need 4 degree shims (at least on the front because your steering will be jacked up otherwise) and because the front springs are mounted backwards, make sure you put the shims on the correct way. There is already a 2 degree shim on the OME spring - look at how it’s mounted to see which way to turn your new shim (it will be opposite because the spring is facing backwards...).

Get a set of Rocky Road YJ “boomerang” shackles front and rear. These come with the hardware and are greasable - you should buy new eye bolts and nuts for the rear - 1/2 13 x 5” (these will naturally not be greasable). Also, the nuts that ship with the shackles are not “nylock” nuts, they are one-use lock nuts that have to be “punched” out if you want to remove them - and you really need an impact gun to mount them so new nylock grade 8 nuts should be bought if you don’t want to deal with that. Look online for pics of how the shackles get mounted. And McMaster-Carr is the place for the nuts and bolts.

I used MORE YJ shackle hangers on the front and the Rocky Road heavy duty hangers on the rear. Both are good, but the RR shackles come with a “third hole” for mounting along with a self-tapping hex screw. This adds a third mounting point that I needed because one of my hanger bolts broke in the frame and I couldn’t get it out.

For bushings I used Daystar poly non-greasable. I had to use a drill press to drill grease holes in the steel sleeves. I honestly don’t remember if Daystar sells a greasable kit. Maybe they do and I forgot to buy it, LOL. I just improvised when presented with the problem.

Rubicon Express Spring Under U-bolt skid plates and Rubicon Express u-bolts and nuts - all very heavy duty.

Skyjacker Black Max shocks.

And I am about to install Rocky Road extended shock mounts (yes, you will need them) and I have new Skyjacker extended bump stops that mount under the u-bolts because you don’t want your new shocks to be bump stops.

Most of this stuff can be bought from Quadratec - but you can find cheaper prices by looking around and buying from different sources.

If you need info or part numbers, I would be happy to help - just email me.

[Seruzawa]

Couple of inches should be okay. I’ve lost count of the rolled jeeps over the years. The things just have too high of a COG.