Posted on 01/16/2015 1:33:31 PM PST by Little Bill
I have a Grizzly 10 inch saw, which is not bad as saws go. My problem is the, swear word, tape measure locator on the cross fence support.
There is no repeatability swear Word. If you change blades you must make a mental note of the difference in width between blade you replaced and the blade you are using.
Now because I of an advanced age you have mind farts or lose where you wrote it down so I started to look around for an alternative.
Back when I was young and CNC machining came out I was working for GE. I discovered that if you did a set up on a run and if you repeated that run later, if you punched in the right numbers, you got the same result.
I was amazed and poorer because you couldn't play with set up times, that is another story. ( You who have worked with Swiss screw machines will Understand.)
So to make matters worse I abandoned working for a living got an education, went into Management and made some real money with out having any sweat on my brow.
Now in my dotage I have a similar problem with measurement so I looked around and found the Wixey digital locator that is resettable, The Question is: Is it accurate?
Whaaa??? A bit esoteric.
How much have you had to drink today? ... :-) ...
Well when i was framing always use the same tape measure so it its wrong at lest its consistent
oh yeah i never ever use the ruler on any powersaw table use a tape from fence to front of blade and back of blade to make sure its parallel
I have no experience with “digital locators”, but I’m curious - working in wood, what kind of tolerance are you looking for ?
We have a local enterprise with both metal and wood shops that have numerically controlled machinery you can join by the month. There are a number of these springing up all across the country. (3-D printer too)
How much have you had to drink today? ... :-) ..
Should he answer in ounces or liters ?
http://www.techshop.ws/
0.001 inch on small pieces is a good target
+/- .01, I have seen people use dial indicators during set up.
FWIW, I use a Wixey digital angle gauge on my table saw blade and I’m very happy with it.
Don’t know anything about a digital locator, however.
Engrave the size difference ON THE BLADE. You can’t misplace it, and it’s handy every time you use it.
1. Always use scrap wood to make test cuts.
2. Cut slightly long and then do one or two finish cuts to size.
3. Wood cut on Tuesday may be too short or long on Thursday when doing the final fitting due to humidity changes. Control your workshop temperature and humidity if accuracy and precision are critical.
4. You need to choose the right wood for a project. Something sensitive to humidity like a soft pine won’t work well when making a puzzle box with tight joints.
LOL
My saw has 25# Shop Fox Tee Square Fence. If you run the fence against the Blade and set zero to compensate for the blade off sets will you get the same number the second time?
Time consuming, but very, very accurate.
I always do this with my radial arm saw, don't give a hoot about the saw's various markings for precision work.
Can’t say I’m familiar with a saw without a locator that’s easily adjustable, but another (cheap) option is to have it preset for your thickest of blades, and then for thinner blades have a few fence-spacers (the length of the fence) available. Each spacer need only be a thickness of 1/2 the difference of blade thickness.
I also do that with my Radial Arm.
I have their digital angle gauge and the digital height gauge on my planer and have found both to be accurate and very handy.
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