Posted on 03/10/2011 4:33:36 PM PST by library user
Good tip.
Need to do good troubleshooting or you’ll spend a lot of money. But on the upside, if the shotgun approach works you’ll have a lot of new parts! ;^) Jk
Have you tried checking for fault codes in the computer as well? Get the code and search the web for it, it’ll give you an idea as to what the problem is and help you narrow it down.
Changed your fuel filter?
It's a shame, according to the book Car: A Drama of the American Workplace by Mary Walton , some bean counter chose to save a nickel on a part in the pump that put it out of spec from the designers point of view and caused early failure.
If you don't hear that, It doesn't mean the pump is actually bad. It could be, but you need to check power supply first.
There will be a fuel pump fuse, relay or circuit breaker in the fuse panel. Also there are sometimes a re-settable relay on some vehicles that stop power supply to the fuel pump in the event of an accident. Not sure if yours has this feature. Check your owners manual if you have it.
I was deer hunting with my cousin last fall, and his late '90's Chevy pick-up woudn't start. We did the checks, and confirmed it was a fuel pump. We pulled the pick-up bed off to get to the pump, and found the electrical connector on top of the pump had come off and was just sitting on top. Plugged it in and no problems since.
Hope your issue is resolve as easily. Good luck
Its winter, you may have water in the fuel, which will plug intake screens, filters, and pumps.
Try Fuel Antifreeze products before doing anything else that is more expensive.
Bad ground wire....
if you have a bad alternator it will bleed the battery. try looking at the alternator
I had that prob with a 2000 jeep. It ended out to be a battery problem. New battery no more problem.
I’m answering this before I read the responses, but you shouldn’t be beating the gas tank. Its the starter. Bang on the starter and then take it directly to get replaced.
Thanks for all the replies thus far. The more the merrier. Going to try and few things and be back later. Thanks again!
Check your battery........
Buy an Apple iPad 2, it’s the answer to everything these days!
I have a 2000 Bravada, and when it did that it was the in tank fuel pump.
I have a ‘99 Olds Bravada which stopped starting a few days back (you get the sound like it’s going to start, but it rarely turns over).
We tried two different fuel pumps, thinking that was the problem.
After beating on the fuel tank with a rubber mallet while simultaneously turning the key in the ignition, the car would sometimes start.
My brother is doing the work on the car and thinks the problem could be related to the distributor cap or cap and rotor.
Or possibly a problem with the fuel injectors. We’re definitely getting a spark when we try to start the car.
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OK , here goes ...
The distributor cap or rotor rarely cause a no-start problem ,, a miss under load ,, sure ,, poor fuel economy YEP... to be sure pull the cap and scrub it clean to make sure there is no carbon tracking ... If it is ignition it is likely the pickup or the ignition module (under the rotor??) ,, the modules however usually work well cold and fail when hot.
I don’t know what you mean by “(you get the sound like it’s going to start, but it rarely turns over).” IS THE ENGINE TURNING OVER?? ARE YOU HEARING IT SPUTTER BUT NOT CATCH??
If the battery is weak you could have a slow crank, weak ignition and a low fuel pressure problem all at the same time .. if the battery reads under 12.6V charge it or borrow one out of another car ...
The 45psi fuel pressure tells me that both pumps (low pressure transfer and high pressure) are operating ,,, but if you need 60 and have 45 you obviously have a problem somewhere ... don’t throw parts at it unless you have a u-pull yard nearly .. diagnose it...
If you have a test light or voltmeter, check the pins on the vehicle harness, (not the pump harness), for appox. 12 volts. Or enough voltage to light your test light. Make sure the Ignition key is "on".
One pin may have lower voltage. About 5 volts. That would be power for your fuel gauge. If you have no 12 volt power anywhere on the connector, it's an electrical issue. Check your wiring harness leading to the cab for wire breaks.
Also, people need to know that gasoline and diesel fuel cools these pumps and constantly running on empty is bad for these pumps. I try to fuel up at 1/4 tank or above.
Without seeing the vehicle, I assume it’s equipped with a 4.3 6 cyclinder, probably a vortec. If so, on the very top of the engine is a small square plastic device, on the very top in the center. It is attached with 2 torx screws. Remove those screws and that piece look down in the hole with a flashlight if you see any puddles of fuel the injector assembly is bad. It is commonly nicknamed an octopus. Also check on the back of the engine in front of the driver are steel fuel supply lines going in to the back of the engine. Turn the key on and look for any evidence of fuel leakage right there. That is a common problem and parts are available through GM dealership. Those are 2 very common problems with that particular engine setup. If you have 45 lbs of pressure that is sufficient for the engine to run.
When you turn the key on without cranking the engine, you should hear the fuel pump run for approximately 3 seconds. Then check the 2 things listed above. Can’t do more without talking to you or hearing or looking at the vehicle.
There are a few things to check.
1) When you turn the key to the run position (not start) do you here the fuel pump humming for 2 to 5 seconds?
2) When you remove a spark plug wire and crank the engine over, do you get spark snapping from that plug wire. (Use a screw driver in the end of the spark plug wire and hold close to engine block, 1/4 inch, have someone try to start the engine)
This last one you will only have to do if the first two check OK. If you do not have a “noid” light, you will have to borrow or purchase one.
3) Disconnect the injector harness from one of the injectors and install a “noid” light. Crank the engine over, do you get a pulse.
“distributor cap or cap and rotor.”
On a 99 Bravada. Wow.
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