Posted on 04/20/2016 10:41:00 PM PDT by sdpatriot
thank you, i appreciate your advise on this..
thanks so much for that link..... don’t know why i waited so long to ask FR banglist guys for help on this....
i’ll check around...... thanks so much for you advise on this..
Your Bodyguard’s trigger pull is working as intended. This is a gun made for use at near contact ranges. Inside of twenty feet. It’s just fine as it is right now for a self defense gun. I have a friend who bought one and didn’t like it. He loaned it to me to get my opinion but I found I actually liked it. He then wanted to make a trade with me but I ultimately turned him down.
If it were ME who wanted a .38 snub-nose revolver for CCW — and I don’t — I’d try to find a vintage 5-shot S&W Model 36 Chief’s Special. There are so many out there in great condition. The ones made in the ‘50s and ‘60s have really nice fit and finish. I’d get the Nickel because it’s a little easier to clean. Their only downside is that they hold their value and people want all the money they can get for them. Only reason I don’t have one is that I don’t want to pay what they cost. Only reason I wouldn’t carry one is that I have a compact .45 that I trust.
My advice to you is to just learn your trigger, double-action only. If there’s one thing to say about someone who chooses a small revolver for self defense is that their pistol is absolutely going to work when needed unless somehow their assailant can grab the cylinder to prevent it from turning. I prefer bigger sidearms because they’re easier to get a handle on when you need to grab it and anyone in a self-defense situation can pretty much count on having to grapple and fight hand to hand with an assailant.
The Dept I use to work for in the 80's had one and the guy could tune a Md 66 real fine ;-)
Ed
26 replies on a technical firearms question at 2:00 am. Only on FR!
>> i do love the laser sight..
Use it to train your trigger pull:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oN1XxFzgi8U
https://www.crimsontrace.com/about-our-lasers/lasers-for-training/
Also check out:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hwOzjH1sOuc
try practicing with it.
My wife carries a stainless 2 1/2” Speed Six, it’s a medium frame so it’s fairly light. And, has an exposed hammer. So, I’ve taught her to fire her first shot as single action being first shot is most critical one. Concerning the exposed hammer, she’s never had a problem with it snagging on anything. FYI, sadly, the Speed Six is out of production. But, there are similar pistols that are in production to consider. Btw, imho the double/double semi is the worse choice possible. Wouldn’t take one if it was a Christmas present.
If it were ME, and it is, I would look for a S&W Model 60 Chief's Special, and they have all of the advantages of the Model 36, only in Stainless Steel. They can be had in the classic S&W quality if you buy used up to the mid '80s, or you can buy a new one today if you don't mind MIM parts and the internal lock.
I inherited my Model 60 from my Father, and it was made in 1986.
There is nothing wrong with a semi-auto for a truck gun, a purse gun, or for holster carry.
I wouldn't recommend the Bodyguard 380, but if you're a Smith girl I would recommend the S&W Shield in 9mm for carry and on body concealment, and the S&W M&P in 9mm for the nightstand.
Me, I prefer Glocks, and I would recommend the Glock 42 in .380 (my wife's gun of choice), the Glock 43 in 9mm (similar in all respects to the Shield,) and the Glock 19 in 9mm (similar to the M&P.)
Semi-autos can be just as tough and take just as much abuse as any revolver, and maybe more. Look at the exposed cylinder face on your revolver, then imagine what would happen if it got dropped in the mud or snow. Almost all modern semi-autos pass the drop in the mud test with flying colors (and flying mud in your face when you fire the first round!)
I once blindly relied on the S&W mark also. But over the course of acquiring near 20 S&W revolvers built all the way from 1917 up through last year, my practice now is to examine the revolver very very closely before purchase.
I take range rods, check cylinder end shake, excessive turn lines and cylinder rattle, etc. If the shop won’t let me do that I don’t buy it. Most brand new are acceptable but I have run across several that just didn’t make the grade.
Why do I do this now? I bought a Model 22-5 of a US 1917 revolver to match the real one I own. It had to be ordered from S&W and over $1000. It finally came and guess what? They omitted and entire machining operation - no lanyard ring, not even drilled for one. It took another two month trip back and forth to get that fixed.
And on a JM 625, the extractor rod spindle housing was misaligned in tightening and it kept backing off during firing, eventually locking up the cylinder from turning. Several other guns had issues associated with quality that didn’t meet the name reputation IMO.
Don’t get me wrong. I don’t have a ‘thing’ against S&W, if I did, I wouldn’t have so many of them. But these guns are more expensive than others and I expect more. Overall, they are excellent.
Lastly, if the trigger pull is too hard, be glad you don’t have a Mosin Nagan 1892 gas-seal revolver. Its pull on a double action shot is very, very high - my trigger pull gauge maxes out at like 15 lbs on it.
Just watched the movie again last night - this time with the wife who loved it.
Do you shoot one-handed or use the other hand as a brace? With a gun like the Defender, the main intent is more defense than target accuracy. I suggest practicing and learning to compensate - it will change over time if a lot of rounds go through it but most of us put through enough rounds to "sight it in" then occasionally shoot it from time to time. I shoot my defense weapons (compact 380 autos) more for stayng in a 6" circle at 25' but can stay inside 3' if I take my time. Then I have the weapons that allow some real accuracy 1911 made in 1914 for instance and a .357 with long barrel - both are more accurate than I am as I age.
Ping,
Show it a picture of Hillary.....
My brother has two S&W Model 28s. The only difference is that one of them had a trigger job done at the S&W Custom shop. If you shot both of them you would swear that the one from the custom shop has a much light trigger pull, but they’re both 7 lbs. It’s just the custom 28 is so smooth it seems much lighter.
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