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I’ve trained 2 Shepherds in solid real-world obedience, and they were excellent dogs, well-behaved on their own even and trustworthy.

“Kicking” is relative. There is tapping, and there is brutally beating in. And everything in between. You can hardly tell what is going on in this hazy film as it is, much less does it looks like brutal kicking to me. Wouldn’t stand up in court. Never mind the “whipping”. It’s like a casual slap with the reins.

Milan has already been accused of being abusive with his kicks, exactly as I stated. Look on the ‘net.

“The Koehler Method” was a sadistic book of abuse.

“Hanging”, “drowning”, etc.

I do not know *one single trainer* who does not now consider that “book” a canine version of the Malleus Maleficarum.

Anyone who wants, can read it here.

http://www.walagata.com/w/the-salamander/THE_KOEHLER_METHOD_OF_Guard_Dog_Training.pdf

A charming example is ‘how to correct a chewer’

Rather than waste time on discussions of such maneuvers as pointing to
the damage a dog has done and saying, “No-no-naughty-naughty,” tying the
damaged article to his neck, or going through calisthenics with a folded
newspaper to the rhythm of “Shame-shame-shame,” let’s start out with
some methods that the record shows are a bit more effective. So that
you might better understand the aversion, and even revulsion, caused by
the first correction we’ll discuss, try the following experiment.
Select a food that you like exceptionally well, cram your mouth full of
it, and hold it there for awhile without chewing. In a surprisingly
short time, you will experience a gagging sensation and will want to
empty your mouth—not by swallowing, either. This gagging sense in
association with the taste causes a revulsion. This same principle can
be used to discourage your dog from destructive chewing.
The specific technique is to select a piece of the material he has
chewed (and you needn’t catch him in the act) and place it well back,
crossways, in his mouth. Use a -strip. of adhesive tape, to wrap the
muzzle securely in front of the chewed material so that no amount of
gagging and clawing can force it from his mouth.
Perhaps you are wondering if these frantic efforts to rid himself of the
material will cause the dog to scratch himself painfully. Yup!

Yes, y’all read right.

TAPE HIS MOUTH SHUT with a huge gob of whatever you want not chewed and wait util he injures himself, trying to dislodge it.

Sound training methods, right there.

Koehler “housebreaking”

Occasionally, there is a pup who seems determined to relieve himself
inside the house, regardless of how often he has the opportunity to go
outside. This dog may require punishment. Make certain he is equipped
with a collar and piece of line so he can’t avoid correction.
When you discover a mess, move in fast, take him to the place of his
error and hold his head close enough so that he associates his error
with the punishment. Punish him by spanking him with a light strap or
switch. Either one is better than a folded newspaper.
It is important to your future relationship that you do not rush at him
and start swinging before you get hold of him.
When he’s been spanked, take him outside. Chances are, if you are
careful in your feeding and close observation, you will not have to do
much punishing. Be consistent in your handling. To have a pup almost
housebroken and then force him to commit an error by not providing an
opportunity to go outside is very unfair. Careful planning will make
your job easier

Hole digging [aka Drown The Bastard]

HOLE DIGGING
After a dog has dug a few ruinous holes in a lawn or flower bed, it is
almost certain his master has shown him he disapproves, and the dog has
not been particularly impressed by the disapproval. Generally, the first
action of the master is to focus the dog’s attention on the hole that’s
been dug and spank him. Sometimes this procedure accomplishes the
purpose, but there are other ways that seem more effective.
if you come home and find your dog has dug a hole, fill the hole brimful
of water. With the training collar and leash, bring the dog to the hole
and shove his nose into the water; hold him there until he is sure he’s
drowning. If your dog is of any size, you may get all of the action of
a cowboy bull-dogging a steer. Stay with it. I’ve had elderly ladies
who’d had their fill of ruined flower beds dunk some mighty big dogs. A
great many dogs will associate this horrible experience with the hole
they dug. However, to make sure of a permanent impression, fill the
hole with water and repeat the experience the next day, whether the dog
digs any more or not. On the third day, let him watch you dig a hole
and prepare it for a dunking. Class surveys have shown that more than
seventy percent of the dogs who experience this correction for as many
as six consecutive days swear off hole digging. If the master takes the
first sign of repentance as a permanent change, and stops the dunking
after only a couple of days, failure is generally the result.
Another correction, found to be very effective and easier to administer,
is the policy of putting a screw-in stake in the ground adjacent to the
hole, tying the dog to it on about two feet of chain, and leaving him to
meditate for an hour or so. If this is the inevitable result of each
excavation, the dog will eventually turn his energy to other channels.
It is not necessary to “catch the dog in the act” in any of the above
instances of correction. Be consistent in your corrections and your dog
will come to find the smell of freshly dug earth quite repugnant

How to properly lynch your dog:

The only justifiable course is to hold him suspended until he has
neither the strength nor inclination to renew the fight.
When finally it is obvious that he is physically incapable of expressing
his resentment and is lowered to the ground, he will probably stagger
loop-legged for a few steps, vomit once or twice, and roll over on his
side.
The sight of a dog lying, thick-tongued, on his side, is not pleasant,
but do not let it alarm you.

Ah, yes, Herr Koehler.
Pretty sure he came here after WW2.