Posted on 07/26/2005 10:55:35 AM PDT by rface
ping
oh well ..... as they say, "you can't argue with results".... and I know the results - and with a substantial background in the sciences, I am able to recognize traps that some may be susceptible.
the results are unambiguous - I dare you to investigate your self. If you do, then you too will also know that the increase in mpg is as claimed - BUT - the smaller, more efficient engines won't see the benefits that a large engine does. I don't know why.
also - the lingering question I have is what effect the acetone has on the rubber and plastics within the system. So far, I have had no problems...10 ml acetone/gal gasoline seems like a pretty dilute mix to me. Time will tell.
I travel some 500 miles per week following a pretty much set routine. Doubt what you want, but I can prove you wrong.
I find that a small, neatly cut piece of black hockey tape makes the 'Check Engine' light go away quite nicely.
Yes, but it's very pricy.
What do you think? Between a SUV and 2 vans, any improvement would save me some bucks.lol
Read the article linked in #16, Toronto.
Sounds like it. It happened to my Escape too. I took it to the shop and $28 later I had a new EGR valve and no check engine light.
I do know that it fixed that damn blinking 12:00 on my old VCR.....
yep - that's why I add it. It were an easy answer. :^)
BTW - you don't use "all the acetone you want". It has to be between 3 and 4 oz. per 10 gal or you'll just screw up your fuel system. I use 10 ml/gal because it's easy to calculate at the pump. (3.3 oz per 10 gal). e-mail me in a couple months and I will honestly tell you any pitfalls I encounter. I put on 2,000 miles in a month
I dunno about you, but I'd go to Autozone, have the code pulled, and fix the problem reported by the code.
Biodiesel does have better lubricity. While B-100 does have gelling problems at low temperatures, the biodiesel blends (up to B-20) do not. Major diesel engine manufacturers are recognizing up to 20% biodiesel blend (B-20) as far as warranties are concerned.
Check your fuel tank cap. When that is not secure it can cause your check engine light to come on.
Anybody here know anything about a good fluid for my differential on my 88 Volvo with 200K miles? The thing is round-toothed and noisy, but I'm not going to make a repair that costs more than the car is worth. I have used Trans-X on transmissions, and find it to be miraculous (for a while, that is).
Is there something similar, to cheat on the differential (for a while, that is), make it work a little tighter? Appreciate.
By the way, that old saw (pun intended) about sawdust quieting and tightening a bad transmission is true--it works, an old mechanic told me. For just a little while, till the gears grind up the sawdust and make a wood-oil sludge. It works just long enough to unload the car....
Hey, any of you guys wanna buy an '88 Volvo? It's a real runner.....
Damn, I wanted to put that on another thread. Doh!
kinda like running 2-cycle fuel ....... I had one guy tell me it's not such a bad thing to run a little oil in your gasoline....but I wonder about the catalytic converter. Anyway, I always siphon the 2-cycle gas out of my boat (50:1) and run it in the riding lawnmower. This is all it runs on - it's all I use. Seems to run good to me.
I might have got around to it one day, but now I don't have a problem. The light went off. I ignored the problem away!
I watched an Andy Griffith Show a couple nights ago - and the "Old Lady Crook Car Dealer" put sawdust mixed with oil in the transmission to make it run smooth for a while. Maybe it would work in your differential .... of course Barney got screwed in the car deal, but that's what made the show funny.
You ignored away the indication of a problem.
blah...blah...blah...
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