Posted on 01/01/2009 9:38:24 PM PST by Dallas59
Depending on the work that is needed, you should be able to get a good price. I think $15k is probably too high and 2k is too low. Throw the bait out there and see if you get a bite. There are many DIY people that would love to take a chance on this. It wouldn't surprise me if you got $5k-$7500 for it. Especially if GM goes under.
I wrenched every day for almost a decade and did my share of bringing cars that had sat for years back to life. Here’s how I’d approach getting this one back without spending a fortune in time and materials: Pour four or five bottles of dry gas into the tank, bounce the car up and down a few times to mix it up. Drain the tank an hour later, but don’t refill it yet. Pull the spark plugs after marking the wires’ locations with masking tape and squirt some liquid wrench into each hole — load them up with the stuff, then change the oil and filter after you’ve let the old oil drain out overnight. Drain the tranny oil at the same time, replace the filter, but first let it drain overnight. Next day, load up the spark plug holes with Marvel Mystery Oil and let it sit overnight. The following day, slap in a new battery (after draping rags over the spark plug holes) and see if the sucker turns over.
If it doesn’t and your starter and its wiring are ok, you’re probably looking at engine removal and disassembly, though you can try putting more Mystery Oil into the plug holes and waiting a few more days before trying again. If it does turn over, spin it until the oil light on the dash goes out — that means you’ve built oil pressure and all the critical lower-end parts are getting lube. Now spin in a new set of spark plugs. Go with the platinum ones — it’s harder to foul them. Now, check the coolant level and add as necessary (you’ll have to change the old coolant before driving the car, but for now it’ll do). Check the fluid level in the power steering pump — again, you’ll want to replace the fluid but for now it’ll do. Now, put 4-5 gallons of fuel in the tank and try to start the thing. (For God’s sake, do this outside since if it starts, the car will smoke like crazy for at least a few minutes. If she won’t go, check the usual stuff — fuel pressure and delivery, spark. I don’t know what type of injection system the car has, but my guess is throttle body. If you have spark but no start after all this, pop the air cleaner and as someone cranks the starter, peer into the throat of the throttle body to see if fuel’s squirting in. Do this from the side so you don’t get a face full of flame if the engine backfires! If it still won’t start and fuel’s being squirted into the intake and you’re getting spark, the injection system probably needs a little love (have fun — to the repair shop you go). If it does start and lifter “chatter” disappears in 10-30 seconds, awesome — let it run and check for leaks until the engine reaches operating temp. If the exhaust smokes heavily after 20 minutes or so, congratulations — you’ve probably cracked a piston ring! If it stops smoking within this amount of time though, replace all the belts and hoses and take it from there. Before putting it on the road I’d also replace the tires and flush out the brake system with denatured alcohol and make sure none of the wheel cylinders or calipers were frozen or leaking, which they probably are.
If memory serves me correctly, in the mid-80s GM got the bright idea to design an aluminum block engine (4.1L?) for this chassis style. It was a disaster — the crank journals would warp into misalignment after low miles and the engine would trash. If your car has that engine installed (research it online),dump the rat for a few grand and walk away. Lol!
Not at all. The Feds won't let a dealer sell a tire older than six years. I stored my four brand-new BFG race tires inside my bedroom closet (out of the weather) and one tread split open after only four years of storage. (BFG's Dave Sanders made good on it).
A spare NOS 185x15 Michelin, stored on the front of my microbus, had a belt separation. It had never been on the ground!
All that said, a new buyer might want to keep the old [non-belted] tires for a car show, so don't let them go.
If you don't need the money right now, you might want to see what happens in a possible inflationary period ahead. "Items" are more valuable than cash—over time. Watch the "art" market for a guide.
Keep the original tires, hoses, belts, and battery with the car. The value premium is because the car is all original.
I missed your reply while typing mine.
You have a good handle on this, but I like the idea of turning the engine over by hand—first—at the flywheel. If it doesn't turn, give it to a private shop. Marvel Mystery Oil is great stuff, but can be substituted with much-cheaper automatic transmission fluid. They're both "high-detergent" oils.
Wasn't this engine used in the RVs of the time? There may be a market for just the engine, and part-out the rest at a profit. (Depending on the outcome/circumstances of storage.)
I agree, sell it as is, If I found a Duesenburg that was in storage I would leave it alone, let a collector do as they wish. In this case of this car there is not much to be gained by spending several thousand dollars replacing anything that may have deteriorated, its still what it is, maybe if it was found after a hundred years it would be worth something.
Me being a mechanic all my life I would check the fluids replace the battery and just fire it up as is, if it croaks it croaks. Don’t run it on the road though. The brake system is probably shot, all of it.
Let me know how that one works out, I live in Wasilla Alaska, same place you are?
Another good option, if the owner doesn’t want to sell, is to lend it to a museum. That way the car is cared for and enjoyed by many.
Actually thats a pretty good idea, or donate it to a high school for students to learn from.
I would definitely do the museum. You can give a bunch of teenagers a beater to tear apart.
obamas new ride is ready
Junk it in my back yard!I love those boats!!!!!
As you know, race tire rubber compounds are not made with storage in mind. In fact, three months and a single day of use is probably about the design life.
A spare NOS 185x15 Michelin, stored on the front of my microbus, had a belt separation.
I'm going to guess you parked it immediately downwind of a sulfur plant or someone vandalized it or damaged it in an accident.
Failures like like that unknown around here, except for gross design or material defects.
The original 1963 tires on my boat trailer are fine. They aren't kept dry, either!
And I read last night that the Feds won't allow used childrens' clothing to be sold at thrift stores starting next month.
Given the imbecilic nature of this, I'm even less inclined to rely on nanny state policies to determine what makes sense.
My dad bought a 64 Belvedere for $1,500, cash on the barrel head. It had the pushbutton auto transmission.
Where did you read that about used childrens’ clothing at thrift stores? That’s going to bite a lot of people! What would be the reason for such egregious nanyism?
I don’t know but I can ask Silky,....”Hey Silky, this guy’s git a primo ride for you!!! How much?”
Oh, it started out as a Washington Post article yesterday, IIRC, mainly concerning toys and the possibility of lead contamination but it applies to sales and resales of all non-certified childrens’ items. Even would apply to new sales of the 20” tubes I use in my own BMX bike!
Disclaimer: Opinions posted on Free Republic are those of the individual posters and do not necessarily represent the opinion of Free Republic or its management. All materials posted herein are protected by copyright law and the exemption for fair use of copyrighted works.