Beijing, one of the fabulous cities of antiquity, is experiencing late-life growing pains as it feverishly struggles to look more modern for the 2008 Olympics. The trip-hammers, cranes and concrete mixers are going full throttle to build what the city confidently promises to be the best stadiums, swimming pools, gymnasiums and playing fields to host the international games since their revival in 1896. But the process of tidying up a city steeped in history but hurtling toward the future threatens to wipe out one of Beijing's unique architectural and social jewels, the hutong. Narrow lanes which lead to the walled...