Posted on 03/13/2015 1:53:45 PM PDT by elder5
My Father in law passed away and left me his M-1. I'm ex-army (M-16 days) and other than the time I spent in the military I haven't had too many weapons in my hands.
The weapon is in great shape except for a small amount of rust in front of the rear site.
My question is how to remove the rust without damaging the weapon.
Thanks.
Gun oil and one of those green scrubby pads you use on crusty dishes. Be firm but gentle.
You can send it to me so I can take a closer look at it ;)
Actually that same CLP you used on your M16 should remove any light rust....
There is a metal polish that is called “Flitz” does a good job of taking off small spots of rust without hurting the bluing. Use a light touch.
Just give it a good cleaning with CLP or something similar. Don’t get too aggressive or use anything abrasive.
Have it checked by a competent gunsmith for safety and then have fun with it.
L
I wouldn’t know. All the firearms I used to have are rusting too. They were in the boat, and . . .
Join the M-1 CMP forums. They know EVERYTHING about that sexy rifle. One of these days I’ll make it to Camp Perry to find my own.
http://forums.thecmp.org/forumdisplay.php?f=7
Great rifle. As others have said, CLP. Keep a CLP soaked rag on it for a day or two then go slow. CLP will dry out so keep it wet.
Tetra. Clenzoil. Gun Scrubber. Or just old fashion Hoppe’s #9. Finger nail. Or finger pressure should do it. If not, spray it down good and leave overnight. Let the stuff work.
No!!!!!!!!!!
Anything abrasive will remove some of the Parkerizing. A scotch brite pad might be okay for a blued gun, but I wouldn't use one on a Parkerized gun. Not even steel wool.
A soft rag and CLP or Flitz would be my first instinct.
Better to have to clean it a second time than to strip the finish.
Be sure to oil the stock with a mixture of Boiled Linseed Oil, Turpentine and Bees Wax (equal parts of each). It will clean, polish and protect the wood. Best to let the stock sit in the sunlight for a few hours before and after to open up the pores of the wood before and to help the mixture absorb into it after.
Be sure to use the correct M1 Garand .30-06 ammo for it. Heavy hunting loads might be too much for it.
BTW be careful in your choice of ammo in a Garand. The fast burn rate of many commercial '06 loads causes a high bolt velocity and can damage the operating rod.
Surplus ball ammo, or ammo made to military specs is good to use for general fun shooting. Remington 150 grain in the green box is a good hunting load.
If you get into handloading, IMR4895 is a good powder to use that has a correct burn rate.
Don't store any firearm in a case or a bag, those are made just to take them to the place where you're going to shoot. Keep it in a dry, well-ventilated place that is (obviously) secure. A gun case will trap moisture next to a gun.
Fortunately now with the internet there's a world of information available at your fingertips, like how to break it down and clean it. And load it...
Have fun!
It’s a terrible gun. Totally unsafe. Worthless. Worse than garbage. Very dangerous. Don’t even touch it.
Just send it to me for safe and eco-friendly disposal.
You may want to look into using some Ballistol oil as a metal protector once you get the thing cleaned up. It’s great as an anti-corrosive.
It should have its own song.
WD40 takes rust off pretty well. Then wipe it down and oil with Hoppe’s.
WD40 takes rust off pretty well.
WD40 is an All American story.
WD, stands for Water Depressant.
40 is the 40th attempt to get the formula right.
“Gun oil
It should have its own song”
The smell should be made in to a cologne!
Be careful oil, elbow grease and TLC.
If it were mine I’d have it put in a display case. What a great foundation to a Man Cave collection.
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