Better tires
I was not aware that we had a bicycle thread.
So what’s the most effective way to avoid flat tires?
I've not had a flat in over ten years of road biking. Perhaps it's just luck. Aside from the obvious things like avoiding glass and potholes, I've read that keeping the tires at a high pressure helps prevent pinch flats. I keep mine at 120lbs.
“...what’s the most effective way to avoid flat tires?”
Use Quality Tires and quality tubes and do not ride where rainfall has washed debris from the road to where your tires are riding through. This debrie field is where things like nails screwdrivers screws and other things attract collect after heavy rain and tires (all tires) will pick it up. I also used to use tire scrapers which I can’t seem to find any longer as brake mounting systems have changed.
The are unavoidable. Point is to carry a patch and co2 cartridge inflator kit. If you can’t repair a tube out, don’t leave the house.
If your running on sew ups. Have cell phone at all times, a credit card for a taxi and at least $20 for a passing pickup truck driver.
So what’s the most effective way to avoid flat tires?
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Depending on the wheel set and tires, I highly recommend going tubeless. Pretty much standard now for mountain biking.
I only switched over to tubeless about 2 years ago. Being an avid mountain biker, about every 10th ride I’d manage to ride over a thorn which would cause a slow leak necessitating an inner tube change.
When I brought a new bike with 2.6” tires I decided to give tubeless tires a go. Partly this was due to the fact that inner tubes for plus size tires are hard to come by and they’re heavy; adding about a pound to the rotational weight.
Tubeless does require tires that are tubeless ready. usually designated by a code; such a Maxxis’s “TR” marking. Rims also need to be tubeless compatible. That said, there are lots of differences in just how “compatible” some rims are with tubeless setups. Some rims are super easy, like RaceFace ARC. Others can be a real struggle to seat the tire.
If you’re going to go tubeless, I also recommend being a rapid tire inflator like the “Airshot”. Inflating tubeless tires requires basically supplying a sudden shock-wave of air to the tire and popping the bead onto the rim.
Now if all that sounds like a big pain, the plus side is four-fold.
1. Reduction in rotational weight, especially on wide tires like a mountain bike
2. Self-sealing of small punctures due to the liquid tire sealant used with tubeless tires
3. A more compliant tire due to removal of the inner-tube
4. Ability to run tires at lower pressure providing for better traction over uneven surfaces.
Better tires
I've been commuting for almost 10 years on the Marathon Plus Tour tires. I've had one flat, and that was on a worn tire and a big nail went through it. This is in an environment filled with goatheads and road debris.
1. Puncture flats, round, due to something as small as a 1/4" piece of wire going thru a tire with little tread.
2. "Pinch" flats, around here these are usually due to faulty "bunny hops" over a curb, small horizontal slits, usually two in the same area. Can be front or back tires.
3. Abrasion flats, due to bare spots in the tire, usually as a result of "drifting" = locking the wheel up and skidding.
To avoid flats, there are many options (besides the obvious of avoiding glass, debris, holes), most of which you can combine:
1. Reduce tread width. Use a bike with good quality (like with Kevlar) narrow tires (street bikes). While having less tread thickness, these also have much less contact area with the road, even being as small as your little finger, thus less likelihood of running over something sharp. Keep fully inflated for that reason.
2. Increase tread depth. Use a mountain bike with heavy tread.
3. Get Thorn Resistant tubes (adds some weight, but less than the bottle of water you just drank).
4. Try tire liners (not rim strips) that go inside the tread. Slime 20093 Tube Protector; Stop Flats2 MTB Bicycle Tire Liner, etc. Secure well as they can shift and cause pinch flats. Armour Tire Insert is in a cla$$ by itself, as with the cost.
5. Try solid tires. Tannus seems to be a $tep above.
6. Try tubeless tires.
7. Self-sealing tubes. Not recommended.
Now my instructions on patching a tube:
1. Remove the wheel (axle nuts, if used, are usually 15mm) and deflate the tube (cock the pump nozzle to one side so you hear air and rotate the tire somewhat). Then remove the tire from off the rim (if necessary, use a tire lever to pry off one side of the tire, beginning a foot away from the valve, and after one side of the tire is off then carefully push any of the tube up into the tire, then squeeze the tire and then push the tire lever all the way under the tire, lean the tire to the side and slowly pry it off, carefully ending with the valve).
2. Find out the specific location of the tire leakage by inflating the tire (maybe about 6 pumps using a full pump as this $10 one) until it is spongy like a balloon (you can press it in about an inch) but not stressed. Then, if leak is not found, rotate each side of the tire past your cheek so you can feel the leak. Or, if necessary, vertically submerge each section of the tube in water (begin with the valve) and look for bubbles.
3. Next, clean/dry the area around the leak and if necessary use a marker to make a wide circle around the leak so that you know where it is. Note that if possible, it is best to leave the tube inflated until we get to step 6. Also, try to have clean fingers and minimize skin contact with the leak area.
4. Next, use a buffer to friction-clean the wide area around the leak (blow away any sand if you use sandpaper), and then spread a thin coating of rubber cement onto the leak area on the dry tube, rubbing the cement into the tube for a few seconds until it begins to dry. Note that it is best to use cement that is made for rubber patches, like Slime 1050, and do NOT use super glue or anything else but rubber cement)
5. Next, let the rubber cement dry for about 2 - 3 minutes (outside in windy or sunny warm dry weather it can dry faster), while you slowly remove the foil backing from the patch, holding the edge of the patch. You may also remove the cellophane cover if you want, since that does not stretch like the rubber does - but AVOID putting your fingers on the bottom of the patch (where the foil was).
6. After the cement is dry (it will look dry) deflate the tire if there is much air left in it, and then place the patch over the center of the leak. Then place the tube on a smooth hard surface and press down all area of the patch
7. Wait about a minute or two before putting some air into the tube (about 3 pumps) to make sure the patch is holding and there is no leak (note: some tubes are made of a different material which feels very smooth, kind of like plastic, and for these you may need to repeat steps 4 and 5 if the patch begins to peel off). If all is well then place the inner tube into tire and onto the bike and re-inflate it (about 16 pumps).
Hope this helps. http://peacebyjesus.net