get some plumber bees and they’ll scare them away by all that butt cleavage they show along with the sewer stink!
They hate fire.
Have them unionize. You will still have to pay them, but they won’t get anything done.
Nuke the site from orbit. It’s the only way to be sure.
pellet gun.
I thought she died of anexeria?
All I know is cockroaches die from sprinkling Boric Acid around their pathways. Work with ants? The rip-off exterminating companies won’t use Boric Acid, I’m told, because it’s too effective and they won’t get to go back every few weeks and steal the client’s money for nothing.
I get a couple cans of bee/wasp spray. I spray my eaves and other areas I know they like, as a precaution. Bees and wasps set up their nests in May/early June. When they are looking to set up a nest, I am hoping my house doesn’t “smell nice” and they move on elsewhere.
I don’t like getting the chemicals on me, but it has worked so far for 5 years, after I had a nest my first year in my present home.
I had some, they drove me crazy too. Look for their hive, it may be a hole, say, in a 2X6 rafter, or at least that’s where I found it.
I filled the hole with epoxy and no more carpenter bees.
A non-insecticidal management approach is to deny carpenter bees access to their galleries by sealing each entrance hole. Thoroughly plug the hole with caulking compound, wood putty, or a wooden dowel affixed with wood glue. If possible, also fill the entire gallery system with a sealant. Carpenter bee galleries are a critical resource, since the bees spend much of their time inside a gallery, and they require its protective conditions to survive the winter. Bees that are trapped inside a caulked gallery typically will not chew out due to behavioral constraints. This barrier approach has promise for reducing future carpenter bee infestations.
In new nests, the single female often can be swatted and killed, or she can be captured and crushed or otherwise destroyed. Larvae and pupae can be killed by inserting a sturdy wire into the entrance hole and probing into the gallery as deeply as possible.
Insecticides
A chemical treatment using an appropriately labeled insecticide can protect wood for short periods, especially in the spring and summer when carpenter bee nesting activity is apparent. Dust formulations typically provide residual effects and are effective due to the nature of carpenter bee gallery construction. Precisely inject the dust directly into each nest entrance hole and as deep into the tunnel as possible and also apply it to the adjacent wood surface. Wait for a few days before plugging entrance holes since adult bees should be allowed to pass freely to distribute the insecticide within the galleries. Newly emerged bees also will contact the dust when attempting to leave their gallery.
For use as a preventive, an insecticide should be applied to wood in early spring before carpenter bees begin excavating nests. The insecticide kills the bees that contact it on the wood's surface. However, a preventive approach has limitations because of the difficulty in applying a chemical to all exposed wood on the house where bees could nest. Furthermore, such insecticides usually degrade in a matter of weeks or months so repeated applications are needed to maintain a lethal dose of the insecticide. Some pest management companies report good results against carpenter bees by spraying wood with a microencapsulated pyrethroid, CS insecticide (registered for use only by licensed professional applicators), which contains the active ingredient lambda-cyhalothrin. A number of other pyrethroids (bifenthrin, cyfluthrin, deltamethrin, permethrin, etc.) also are labeled for use against carpenter bees.
A badminton raquet. Seriously. They don’t sting (at least I’ve never been had one try).
Get some kids, give them each a badminton racquet, and pay a quarter per bee. Make them keep an accurate tally and make a competitive sport out of it.
Seriously.
My kids have never gotten stung and they’ve had some fun doing it.
Also - keep in mind that these bees return to where they were born, so by killing parents you reduce the offspring next year.
Painting with oil or polyurethane based paints
Liquid sprays of Carbaryl (Sevin, etc.
Google it.
Good Luck.
Hunt them with an old tennis racket, swing hard enough and the strings cut em into 2 or 3 pieces.
Let them organize a union then do something that forces them to go on strike......
A professional will cost you $50.00.
Screwing with them will cause untold pain and failure.
Take your pick. I, eventually, spent $50 bucks.
where are they congregating? Doesn’t smoke usually drive them away?
The most effective preventative treatment for carpenter bees is a nice glossy coat of paint they don’t like plastic or plastic looking surfaces. To treat for active bees spray a puff of pyrethrum aerosol with a straw into the hole. Then puff the hole with residual dust such as Borid (boric acid) or Delta dust this kills the larva as they hatch then fill hole with wood putty. Mixed results are obtained by misting wood surfaces with a wettable powder or micro-encapsulated residual insecticide but it does make the customer feel better. Carpenter bees are non aggressive and do not sting the most sever damage to wood happens when woodpeckers discover their holes and tear the wood apart to feast on the larva. Hope this helps.