Posted on 04/19/2015 5:48:45 PM PDT by gaijin
There are over 100 pre-oil change treatments products for removing engine sludge. Each product endorser swears on a stack of Bibles that IT is the best --the others are all dastardly liars.
But see, I trust Freepers:
Is there a stand-out product, detergent, or some DIY product for gasoline-powered car engines that average Joe's can buy or formulate and run in their engine for 10 minutes right before an oil change in order to free up engine sludge...?
This gasoline-powered Camry has not changed oil in over 10,000 miles, I believe.
Sorry for the Vanity, I think this is almost my first time doing this.
Any other tips that you can recommend..?
Oops, passenger side was the tough one not driver side.
You run the engine and get it hot (normal engine temp takes 20-30 minutes) then change the oil. When you change the oil put cheap stuff in with 2 cans of seafoam in the oil plus a can in the gas tank. Run the car for about 1 hour again to get the varnish and gunk out. The seafoam will quiet down any noisy lifters and most knocking from the dirty oil.
Change the oil and filter again this time use Mobile one synthetic oil or whatever you can get at Walmart and put one more can of seafoam in to the engine.
I now use seafoam on my own vehicles, lawn mowers, boat, snow blower and it does work!
try this
http://www.auto-rx.com/
Seemed to clear up stuck lifter on my 57 chevy. Engine is newer though.
Bookmark
auto spell correct is not your friend
Just change your oil a couple of times at 2,000 mile intervals. That’ll get rid of the sludge.
.02:
Lots of engine experience, inside & out.
Valvoline does not sludge and has detergents to clean an engine. Castrol sucks. Pennzoil, too.
Buy enough oil for 2 oil changes and 2 oil filters.
Do one oil change, drive for 100 miles. Drain & repeat.
Don’t waste $$ on synthetics unless your engine requires it and ALWAYS buy the type of oil specified for the engine.
It’s hydrocarbon contamination from fuel that damages the additives in the motor oil that causes it to break down and it’s the additives that provide wear protection.
Stick with a decent motor oil per engine specs and change per your driving habits (more severe = more often, perhaps by half).
No substantial sludge will result from only 15k of overdue change, but could if repeated in the past. Valvoline will clean it up.
Again, .02.
Read the comments. Search on Toyota.
http://www.edmunds.com/car-care/stop-changing-your-oil.html
Excerpt
The majority of automakers today call for oil changes at either 7,500 or 10,000 miles, and the interval can go as high as 15,000 miles in some cars.
These car guys should know.
Is an oil change at 10,000 miles too late?
By Tom and Ray Magliozzi
http://blog.nwautos.com/2011/01/is_an_oil_change_at_10000_miles_too_late.html
Oil is a lot cheaper than engines. I’d change it no less than every 5,000 miles although I change my oil and filter at the 3,000 or 3 month figure. I let the dealer do it and he handles all of the mess. And it goes into the computer and proves the engine was properly maintained. Cheap insurance all the way around.
“But see, I trust Freepers”
What you’re SUPPOSED to do is first loosen the oil drain plug until it’s almost ready to fall out. Then you start your car and go for a leisurely drive. The plug will soon fall out and all of the “sludge” will then drain out. When the engine seizes, you know that all the “sludge” has finally drained out, and it’s time to add the new oil. Of course you’ll have to backtrack to find the oil drain plug, though since they’re so cheap, it’s much easier to just buy an extra one when you buy your oil, which is what I usually do.
Trust me. I’m a Freeper.
I had this problem in a 2002 Camry 4cyl that I bought. First thing is to pull a valve cover. If your valvetrain looks like the one in the link, no additive will help. If you’re a decent mechanic, you can fix it for @$300 including a new timing chain set and a big can of carb cleaner from NAPA. I did what was on this link and have had no problems since. http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/sludge/cleaning_sludge.html
Just make sure it’s hot when you change it and you should be good to go...
In late models, it should be fine -if running regular oil, I would consider changing it and running for 2,000 miles, then switching to synthetic and changing it every 5500-6000 miles.
That's true but I also let it rest 10-15 minutes to let the sludge settle to the bottom and it will drain out first.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zks8kLL27-o
Mystery oil is essentially ATF and I usually replace a quart of engine 5W30 with every other oil change. I also put it in with the gas as well
I always drained it right away. That’s fine for about 99% of a shorter interval sludge buildup.
There was one time that really hosed me, I got a steal of a deal on a mint condition 1970 Plymouth Fury I ($200, and that was to keep the new tires on it) with mileage in the 70K range. My usual prerogative for used cars after purchase was get it hot, change the oil, drive the hell out of it, and change it again after about 200 miles.
Worked great, but with that Plymouth apparently the prior owner had always run it with Penzoil or other paraffinic oil in 70K of city driving (Cab in DC) and when I did that it apparently freed up a massive quantity s*** which roached a bearing. I pulled the valve cover after that and it was 50% solids filling open areas inside it.
While I could easily have gotten another Slant 6 195 or 225 CID for it for less than $250, I was kinda pressed for time and I had 6 other cars at the time and was close to entering “The Real World”. It would have been nice for that one to have panned out though, I was planning to get 4 buddies and our back packs, drive it to Alaska, fart around there a while and then sell it and fly back...
Rest of the stable then was 2 Datsun 510’s, 2 Datsun B-210’s (greatest pizza delivery mobile ever!) 84 Trans AM and 70 1/2 RS Camaro. I’m still kicking myself for getting rid of the last one :-(
The Pennzoil yellow bottle conventional oil has a very high level of calcium based, surfactant suitable to breaking down sludge accumulations. Change oil and filter after a shorter running interval. Should take out about 40% of deposits within 2000 miles.
As to using diesel oils cross rated to API-SM for gasoline, the cleaning package may increase oil consumption in the short run. Also the higher zinc / phosphorus could be a problem with catalytic convertors.
If a 10W 40 was listed allowable for the car, my first diesel oil choices would be Valvoline Premium Blue X 5W 40 synthetic or Shell Rotella T5 0W 40 based on cleaning surfactant content.
It's ending is pronounced like the word "pill"......not like the word "aisle".
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