Posted on 03/13/2006 12:17:42 PM PST by presidio9
The wines keep rolling in from that sizzling 2003 vintage in Europe, offering further proof that even if it's melting the polar ice caps and threatening us with inundation, global warming may not be all bad.
It hit 104 in Paris, 107 in Frankfurt and triple digits throughout French wine country in the summer of 2003, prompting winemakers to crow about a "vintage of the century," even though the century was only 3 years old.
The point is that, in often-chilly European vineyards, grapes often don't get fully ripe before fall rains set in. It's why Europeans always say their wines are more minerally and elegant, while California's are unsubtle, hot-weather "fruit bombs."
Now the Europeans are turning out something pretty close to fruit bombs, and aren't they proud?
Two weeks ago I wrote that the hot season turned out Bordeaux wines that were round, ripe and ready to drink in a few years rather than the usual decade or more.
More 2003s are arriving, and, based on tastings, the story is the same in other regions.
Chablis, the chardonnay-based wine from France's frosty northern plain, is often steely, austere and puckery; this year it's round, ripe and full of peach and apricot flavors.
Rhone wines, from the syrah, grenache and other grapes, often have tooth-sticking tannins that require years to soften; the '03s are ripe, generous and ready for immediate drinking.
In the past, the occasional French winemaker would refer to such a hot year as a "California vintage" and not mean it as a compliment. This year they have one, and they're ecstatic.
And since they're sending us such generous wines, who are we to complain?
Highly recommended
2003 Domaine Louis Moreau Chablis "Vallons," Chablis Premier Cru: rich green pineapple and green-leaf aromas; sweet-tart apricot flavors; hint of chalk; full-bodied, almost viscous; long, fruity finish; $39.
2003 Domaine Louis Moreau Chablis "Les Clos," Chablis Grand Cru: aromas of honey, apricots and tangerines; flavors of honey and limes; lots of sugar and balancing acids; long, fruity finish; $39.
2003 M. Chapoutier "Les Meysonniers," Crozes-Hermitage: intense aromas of red berries, tar and leather; concentrated red plum and espresso flavors; big, ripe tannins; opulent and generous; $25.
2003 M. Chapoutier "La Bernardine," Chateauneuf-du-Pape: spice, red fruit and barnyard aromas; black plum and mocha flavors; big, ripe tannins; sweet chocolate finish; $36.
2003 M. Chapoutier Gigondas, Gigondas: tar, mint and shoe polish aromas; black raspberry and mocha flavors; very full-bodied; powerful flavors but creamy and smooth, even velvety; $39.
Recommended
2003 Langlois-Chateau Pouilly-Fume "Les Pierrefeaux," Pouilly-Fume: oaky aroma; crisp flavors of green apples, pears and chalk; long, tart finish; $31.
2003 M. Chapoutier Belleruche, Cotes-du-Rhone: aromas of prunes, raisins and spice; $14.
It is interesting to note that most of the grapes were 'chosen' (meaning particular varieties affiliated with particular regions) during the medieval warm period. In other words during an earlier warmer era. Lets face it...people in 1100 weren't putting bordeaxs up for 30 years before they became drinkable.
I also disagree. The hot temps of 2003 created a lot of flabby wines without a good balance of acidity. In some cases the wines are raisiny or have a cooked flavor. I like the slate nuances of a good Riesling and the mineral aspect of a good Chablis.
Michael Creighton says that within weeks of the cold war ending, "global warming" came into the lexicon and with great frequency.
Well, these days many French wines are grown on California bred root-stock, since much of their own was destroyed by blight some years ago. Drink up, France, California saved your wine industry for you. Oh, how that must gall the gauls.
I'll take a pass on the French wine and drink the real deal.
I love real Chablis when I can afford it and I actually get a bottle that's good and not mediocre. If you can get a bottle with that certain chablis taste and flavor it's wonderful, unique and rare. Or maybe I'm just unlucky and got too many bum bottles.
I can't help it. I was interested in good German wine when I was in college. I remember some awesome 1969 and 70 Rheinghaus, Mosels, and Nahes Kabinetts and Spatlese. Great stuff.
Are you primarily a fan of French wine? I really like Rosemont Shiraz for every day but I've had Syrahs handed over for in-place-of and I don't see [taste] the similarity. Red wines are new for me as I always stuck with white wine only.
This full-bided red I found at the tasting felt warm on the palate and the bouquet was full and earthy and a little sweet, then when swallowed the warmth spread like a lovely massage almost to the toes! AWESOME!
Then they can go back to their Budweiser. It's nice to have a thread like this.
I'm a fan of quality wine products, equal opportunity imbiber and consummate wine salesperson. Don't care about country of origin as long as customers are happy. Good is good.
Any advice on how to find that dreamy red I'm looking for? The one that 'spreads' down the throat and makes you all warm inside? Full bouquet, fruity, yummy...
What's your price range?
If I can find "the one" I will be willing to pay whatever, $50-$60?. I'm not one to buy the $1000 wine for I've no cellar, doncha know. ;o) That's in my OTHER castle...
In the mistake category, I'll make attemps at up to $30 per bottle. Did that make any sense?
http://www.jarviswines.com/price_list.html
Although the reserve cab is not listed, I think it is in the $150 range wholesale! A bit much.
However, my favorite has always been the Jarvis Lake William which is a meritage. It has never failed me, ever, on the job. The look on people's faces are as amazing as the wine.
Of course, wine is a subjective thing but I've never come across a 'prettier' domestic wine on the nose and it coats the palate like chocolate milk.
It is the epitome of Napa blends, IMO.
"Of course, wine is a subjective thing but I've never come across a 'prettier' domestic wine on the nose and it coats the palate like chocolate milk."
Yum! Thanks SO much! I will gladly spend $150. A good steak, I can cook at home. Rather to spend on good wine what dinner for two would cost at Ruth's Chris!
Your description sounds like the heaven I remember from the tasting. I didn't throw anything out on that one. Thank goodness I quit smoking years ago as it has greatly improved my senses...and my appetite! :o(
I might not be a "nose", but I "knows" that doesn't sound appealing.
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