Posted on 12/12/2005 4:10:41 PM PST by NautiNurse
A friend recently gave me a bottle of Chapoutier's 1999 La Bernardine Chateauneuf-du-Pape. I was very much looking forward to trying this wine, which had received high 80s scores from both Robert Parker and the Wine Spectator. I rarely drink Rhone wines, so I was eagerly anticipating comparing this wine to the California Rhone Rangers and Australian Shirazes with which I am more familiar. Unfortunately, this bottle was corked to the point of being undrinkable, so it went down the drain.
I like old things. Old ideas. Old books. Old wines. I guess that's part of the reason I'm a conservative. Yet, the intelligent conservative combines a disposition to preserve with an ability to reform. And so we come to the question of closures for wine.
For generations our ancestors used cork to close wine bottles, and they were wise to do so. Indeed, cork is a nearly perfect closure for wine. It is mostly impermeable, yet apparently allows just enough minute amounts of air into the bottle for the wine to evolve with age. And cork lends a certain romance to the otherwise mundane process of opening a bottle, as anyone who has popped a champagne cork knows. (For real romance, of course, port tongs can't be beat.)
Yet, sometimes change is necessary. And when it comes to wine closures, change has no greater advocate than the Wine Spectator's James Laube, who recently observed:
there are days when 15 percent of the wines we taste in our Napa office are flawed and undrinkable, the result of bad corks. ...
Most wine drinkers are aware of the hassles caused by corks. Those who say theyve never tasted a corky, or spoiled, wine are undoubtedly mistaken. They just didnt know it, perhaps because theyre not sensitive to the taint. Those who havent lost a good, old, cellared bottle to a crumbled cork, well, that too is hard to imagine. I can only say their time is coming.
Crumbling corks are a hassle, but one that is easily dealt with by decanting the wine through an unbleached coffee filter. Wines with bits of cork floating in them, however, are not what wine geeks mean when they talk about corked wines. Instead, as Laube explained, a corked wine is one tainted by 2,4,6 trichloranisole (aka TCA), which ruins otherwise fine wines by imparting a musty character to the wines aroma and flavors. I've come to believe that Laube is hyper-sensitive to TCA taint. His estimate that 15% of wine bottles are tainted is way too high in my experience. Yet, one does encounter enough corked wines to think experimenting with alternative closures is highly worthwhile. So whats the answer? I hate to say it, but I am persuaded that the answer is the Stelvin screw cap. To be sure, a lot of high-end California wineries have switched to synthetic corks. Unfortunately, there is growing evidence that wines sealed with synthetic corks tend to oxidize after only about two years in bottle. Consider these informed remarks:
If I may be indulged a personal note, I'm particularly concerned about Behrens & Hitchcock, which uses solely synthetics, and in whose wines I've invested quite heavily. Their wines tend to huge, with obvious aging potential. A recent tasting of B&Hs 1998 Napa Valley Merlot was very reassuring, as the wine was developing just fine, but I still worry that their wines will go south too quickly because they've chosen a lousy closure. Many fine California and Australia wineries are now experimenting with the Stelvin closure. In my experience, wines capped with screw tops taste just as good as those closed with corks and, of course, loads better than those closed with tainted corks. But will wines capped with screw tops age as well? According to the Spectator, Bordeaux and Burgundy wineries are starting to conclude that they can:
So the next time you see a $20 bottle of wine topped by a screw cap, don't assume you're being ripped off. As Laube opined:
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Wine news ping.
pronounced Chateau-newf-du-pop. One of the best table wines for the money I have had.
Wine snobs will have a hard time eschewing corks, but they'd better get used to screw tops. They're cheaper, and, as the article says, preferable.
I know some women who say the same thing about electric vibrators.
I have a hard enough time eschewing beef jerky. Are corks worse?
Boxed wines are also preserved from air contact after opening because the plastic bladder doesn'r require internal air to pour. I've had some great Aussi wines in boxed containers.
I don't think it will get too far. the sentimental attachment to real cork also keeps most from using the rubber corks too.
The price of wine includes the vintners/sellers fudge factor to cover spoilage.
Then again, I'm mainly a beer drinker! ;o)
I like the corkscrew ritual. Corky wines are not one of life's major problems. I vote for keeping the cork.
For some reason I keep thinking of Redd Foxx and his "cham-pipple" Anyone else as old as I?
I have several wine snob friends who will definitely eschew the screw caps because..........well, they are wine snobs.
I've had some quite nice boxed wines from Australia. Not all things modern are bad things.
Oops, should have read further. I like Australian box wines.
The loss rate from cork approaches 15% for some closures. How can any industry withstand that rate of waste?
I am a waffler about the cork situation. I voted for the screw cap the last time I used my manicure kit to open a wine bottle. On the other hand, I am heavily invested into an over-the-top estate corkscrew purchased barely two years ago.
bttt
I was extremely lucky. I stumbled onto 6 bottles of Bertani amarone vintage 1986 at an out of town discount house and bought all six. They must have been stored properly because I didn't have a bad cork in the lot. This is unusual. At $160/bottle I got lucky.
Somehow this changeover was related to dropping the lead seals on the bottles. I'd rather take my chances with the lead ... ;-(
Oops! Thought I was still reviewing the post - can you spot the typo? ;-)
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