THAT is the barrier..??
Wow, that’s nothing for anyone except a total retard.
The vast majority of people walking into the Shot Show could rectify their “situation” in an hour or two, maybe one day.
Shhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! I’ll be worried if and when you get a fork lift cert.
“THAT is the barrier..??
Wow, that’s nothing for anyone except a total retard.
The vast majority of people walking into the Shot Show could rectify their ‘situation’ in an hour or two, maybe one day.” [gaijin, post 4]
If you are referring to firing pin replacement, it depends heavily on the design and construction of the individual gun.
Many forum members are familiar with the AR-15/M16 family of rifles: removing or replacing a firing pin takes only a few seconds, some field stripping, and rudimentary tools.
The whimsical image posted by Leaning Right [post 11] provides good examples of variety:
The P08 (Luger) is straightforward to disassemble, but any replacement striker (firing pin) must be custom-fitted to the pistol, by a technician both familiar with the gun and skilled in fitting. If a new striker isn’t fitted properly, the pistol is an accident waiting to happen.
The Mosin-Nagant Vintovka o1891g (Russian bolt action rifles at top and bottom of image) 7.62x54Rmm has a firing pin tip on its striker rod, which runs the length of the bolt. The bolt won’t hold together if it’s removed; on reassembly, fitting isn’t always required, but it must be staked in place after the cocking piece is threaded onto its rear end.
The Nagant o1895g revolver at middle left, and the hinged-frame revolver minus grip panels at lower right, have firing pins permanently installed in the hammer face. Installing a new pin (sometimes called the striker tip or hammer nose) required very careful fitting by a gunsmithing technician trained and experienced in the task: the pin is secured by a rivet.
The old rivet holding the old pin or broken stub must be ground away or drilled out, then a new pin is temporarily installed, held by an undersize dowel called a “try rivet,” and the firing pin is tested to see how precisely it fits through the aperture in the standing breech; the upper or lower edges of the firing pin are ground down using a sharpening stone, as needed to readjust the positioning of the tip so it will properly hit the primer of the round to be fired. Then everything is reassembled and the tip position is noted again. The entire sequence is repeated as often as needed, to get the alignment correct.
When the tip of the new firing pin hits the primer close enough to center, the try rivet is removed, and the real rivet is inserted, then struck to flare its ends. When the flaring operation is complete, the sides of the hammer must be reground and polished to enable the hammer to fit into its frame slot once again. Some repaired hammers are left “in the white,” some get refinished according to customer preference.
Can’t say for certain about firing pins for the two PPSh-41 submachine guns in the middle, nor the DP-26 light machine gun at upper right. Both were used extensively by the Soviet Red Army in WW2 and after.