Thanks for introducing me to Twain's "Roughing It."
Here is the citation of which you speak (write? type?)
http://www.mtwain.com/Roughing_It/81.html
Chapters 12-17 are particularly good and focused on Utah and Mormons. I especially recommend Twain's analysis of the Mormon Bible: http://www.mtwain.com/Roughing_It/17.html