100 ain;t so bad. and It’s not the heat . . .
Block the blazing sun, from the plants and the soil, and keep the plants hydrated (humidity).
Like Don Corleone had with his tomato plants in the back yard, just before his heart attack.
Don’t soak the roots in full sun, that will cook the plant.
Now what to grow in 30 degree weather, that’s a real challenge.
Lots of biennials grow in 30 degree and colder weather. Collards, spinach, beets, chard, turnips....
My maters are hanging in there for a few reasons. They get shade at 4pm. They’re heavily mulched. I water them lightly every 2-3 days in the early evening. I’ve still had some blossom drop but also have a lot of maters coming on. Days over 95 and nights over 75 tend to cause blossom drop and that’s been the weather here most days for over a month now.
30 degrees? Peas, most brassicas, most greens, lettuce, spinach, carrots. Might need row covers on really cold nights.
I’m building something next year or this Fall dammit. High tunnel, low tunnel, lean-to greenhouse against the house, row covers if nothing else. That way I can start things earlier. We had 20s in late March and hit 90s in May this year. That was the end of the cool weather crops and most hadn’t matured yet.If I had cover, I could have started them a month earlier.
In very dry air a 65° breeze can cut to the bone and 100° is comfy. Bring on any humidity over 100° and you can stop laboring and not be called lazy.