Posted on 02/16/2019 11:47:39 AM PST by taxcontrol
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Contracts,
Use alot of data,
Infrared?
I have a couple systems. A Swann and a First Alert. I chose the portable monitor types. The wireless cameras are not truly wireless, power connections are still required. They will not take images through glass at night unless the outside is lighted up. I like the First Alert better than the other one. I suspect some other brands have a high rate of refurbishment.
I have two at different locations.
Look for a Power Over Ethernet system, sometimes abbreviated POE. This will give the best resolution, and has the following advantage:
I am not a big fan of wireless systems. If the cameras are battery powered, you will find that the battery is always dead just when something interesting happens. If you are going to supply a power cord to the cameras, just install the ethernet wires and get the better resolution available. Use the best wire available. I think that is CAT 6 these days. The cost is minimal compare the the cost of installing it. If you upgrade the system later, the better ethernet wire will still be good.
The ones I have are a few years old — Swann brand. Resolution is very good. One of the systems is at a remote location. In theory the images are available on the internet with an application on either my iPad or computer. In practice, this capability is very, very hit or miss. About 50% success is the best I can claim, which is fairly frustrating. It does record to local storage, essentially a hard drive in a case that looks like a VCR. That is reasonably good.
We had problems with rats chewing the ethernet wires, that were stopped with a few traps, but you might want to consider armoring the wires. The rats will knock out a camera, but is not brand specific.
If I were doing it again, I would very careful read on line reviews, especially of the software provided with the system. It might be me, but I am not 100% satisfied with the software that come with mine. OTOH, I haven’t compared to any others, so they could be worse.
Our system has a dedicated monitor. For a long time we just used an old one that had been retired from a computer. Don’t do this. We got a better monitor and everything is much more clear.
Put the cameras in places that are high up and as hidden as you can, but be aware that you may need to clean them with a cobweb brush much more often than you might think at first. Do not make it so you need a tall ladder for this task. Ours have built in infrared lights and even a few cobwebs in front of the camera light up very brightly and completely obscure the image at night. During the day, cobwebs do not interfere with the image.
That was MY first thought, also.
Happy with Ring mounted to outdoor overhead light. No batteries.
Dog that barks when it hears any odd noise, mailman, or person at door...
I prefer the cameras with the ring of IR emitters rather than a couple higher powered ones - they seem to last longer. I've already had to replace the ones in the back yard which had the three emitters as they started failing within a year.
I also prefer two 4 channel systems (one for the front, one for the back.)
The biggest issue for cameras is that absent some nifty software, you can't really use them for more than evidence of what happened. The cameras can have a dramatic deterrent effect, but in areas where they've decriminalized much of the property crime, it just generates images you can share on Facebook or NextDoor with neighbors.
Far more effective are motion activated lights in my decriminalized region - a few high powered spotlights turn night into day (and cause the walking dead to scatter.)
Mr Beam's battery powered motion lights on the perimeter keeps people away even from remote areas of the property, and I tend to use the wireless linked versions to have an entire zone trigger when it detects motion. Easy to screw in anywhere, just have to buy a boatload of D cells to keep them powered (I generally get about 6 months of use out of them.)
Free advice: Your question is MUCH too vague.
Companion information which would be useful:
Motivation
Location (e.g. urban, rural)
Dead end, culdesac, easement driveway, gated/controlled access (in general, property access)
Type of structure
Yard?
Pets?
Garage?
Current structure’s strength’ & vulnerabilities
Kids? Others with access & knowledge/information?
Valuables on site? Yes or no
Weapons on site? Yes or no
Gun safe?
Valuables safe?
Irreplaceable objects?
Adequate insurance coverage and proper endorsements
Local laws (a consideration for some installations)
Crime rate in your area and predominant types of crime (there’s a good reason the answers to that question)
Result (evidence, notification or early warning)
Purpose: Property or person protection.
Last but not least: Budget.
A professional would ask you many, if not all, of those questions.
An opportunist would feed on your emotions.
Everything else is inconsequential to the question you pose as everyone’s answers to those questions differ and, so goes the theme, the answer to your own.
I ask this for good reason. One factual example:
A client was inquiring about how to both protect and insure his collection of silver bars.
$80,000 at the rates 2 years ago.
I won’t post the advice in an open forum, but suffice to state that the advice did NOT include a security system of any type and the permanent solution cost under a few hundred bucks.
Hence the 20 questions (more could come up). You needn’t answer them all, but certainly a few of them.
Arlo has worked fine for me.
Scared off a burgular lady a few years ago, she didn’t see ituntil she was on the porch.
Videofied
I’ve got two in two states. Immediate alert on my devices. Really good, practical interface. Not too much data that I notice. Easy contract options. Good auto night vision.
Here is a capture: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JZsatKUm8Jc
Have you ever cleaned up velociraptor poop?
A 12-foot fence topped with concertina and a pair of Belgian Malinois.
Guinea Fowl+dogs+AR15
Belgian Malinois are the best, the number one breed chosen to be trained as war dogs!
Mines.
It’s a multi-pronged approach out here, in the sticks, in Southern Ohio.
We have a number of dogs. I trust my family to their care when I’m not home.
Of course, we are armed and well trained (military and LEO training, lots of practice, and competitive shooting).
I use deadbolt locks on all the doors, and inside bolts on the windows.
I had been toying with video surveillance for several years. Finally settled on Blink cameras. I’ve installed four, so far, and will add a couple more based on current coverage areas. The Blink cameras are small, unobtrusive, battery powered and run through my wireless network. I view them on my iPhone. I get alerts when any of them trigger (motion sensitive) and the audio recording is pretty good, too.
All that being said, it’s also fair to say that if someone wants in, they will get in. Inside we have valuables secured in safes and such.
It all depends on where you are and the threat you want to protect against.
Anyone who says otherwise, doesn’t know.
“Have a chihuahua as the alarm dog and a pit/shep as the greeter.”
I have the alarm, but his back-up is a pump 12 gauge with 00. And a .357.
All cheap and effective.
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