Well, the last sentence of the article explains that:
“Farming,” he says, “is a place where the many queer people struggling with not feeling good in their heads and bodies can put their fingers in the soil and feel right, feel nourished.”
However I will leave it to others - probably, to botanists - to try to comprehend what it means to "put their fingers in the soil and feel right, feel nourished." Most people that I know are markedly different from plants.
You don't know a lot of LIVs, I take it...