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To: onona
Wow. I'm a logger and I see some things in here that are spot on and some that made me laugh. A chainsaw has bar and a chain not a “blade”.
A small round file????? Different chains take different files. A great way to screw up a good chain is to file it with the wrong size of file.
I do hand file but also have several extra chains ready to go at all times. Find a good saw shop and have them sharpen your chains ever fourth or fifth time you need them sharpened. If they grind the chain correctly it will not take that much off of it and it will fix any mistakes you have made with a file.
Keep the chain out of the dirt and rocks period. But know that if you use a saw in the real world all day that you will “rock” the chain now and then. Don't fight a dull chain. Either file it or change it right off the bat when you mess it up or realize it is dull.
The last thing I will say is to use a saw big enough to get the job done. Take care of the saws by keeping them clean, air filters as well as the bar and case, and the chains sharp. Don't be afraid to grease what needs it. Husky and the other saw, just kidding about the white one, (stihl) both make homeowner saws and pro saws. You get what you pay for. I like high speed husqvarna pro saws, the XP series. I like blondes too.
17 posted on 11/21/2012 1:40:57 AM PST by oldenuff2no
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To: oldenuff2no

Have you ever used carbide cutter chain? I’m thinking of giving it a try. It’s about twice as expensive via ebay.


18 posted on 11/21/2012 1:49:43 AM PST by Errant
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To: onona; oldenuff2no
Like oldenuff2no mentioned above, different size files and grinders for different size chains. Dealers have charts if you know your chain size and it's listed on the file/grinder package.
19 posted on 11/21/2012 1:53:01 AM PST by Errant
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To: oldenuff2no

I’ll bet you use a skip tooth or chipper chain too. They’re more dangerous but have a far superior performance than the ones that come with the Big Box sold saws. There’s something really special when you’re bucking a nice size tree and the chips are flying 5-6 feet behind you. Almost as good as sex! Best saw I ever owned was a Stihl O38. Torque was unbelievable. I started working with my dad in Southern Oregon in evenings and weekends cutting wood for sale when I was about 8. Still have my timesheets where he paid me ten cents an hour.


27 posted on 11/21/2012 4:05:02 AM PST by Portcall24
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To: oldenuff2no

onona

You are spot on I use to hand file all the time after about 40 years of useing a saw. I now do like you do after every 4 or 5 sharpings I take them to the shop for 5 bucks each I have them sharpen them.

I keep 4 chains on hand they are normmaly good to cut around 20 plus pickup loads. Before they go back to the shop.

Its not a good feeling when you rock a chain about an hour after you get it back from the shop.

One can cut a lot of wood if the only thing you cut is wood but dang the rocks and ground just seems to jump up and hit the chain.


28 posted on 11/21/2012 4:11:39 AM PST by riverrunner
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To: oldenuff2no

My local lawn mower repair shop does an excellent chain sharpening job for $5.
I can get through a cut with a small rat tail file but have learned to keep a couple of spare chains in the carry case.

And always keep the chain up out of the dirt. Lasts longer that way.


34 posted on 11/21/2012 5:25:31 AM PST by Eric in the Ozarks (In the game of life, there are no betting limits)
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To: oldenuff2no

Exactly.
You will totally screw up a good chain if you use the wrong size/wrong angle file. Even to the point where it’s junk and can’t be sharpened.

I had to get a new chain for my Mcullouch earlier this year and I spent an extra ten bucks to get the right sized/angled file.

Even though the correct file is the SAME diameter as the one I was previously using, the difference is like night and day, this one goes through and don’t even sweat doing it.


43 posted on 11/21/2012 7:09:47 AM PST by djf (Conservative ideals help the poor. Liberal practice help them STAY poor!!!)
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