Posted on 07/12/2008 3:39:52 PM PDT by Tijeras_Slim
When dealing with any of the aforementioned materials, it is the care given at the joints which provides the most efficiency.
Go for the highest R-value you can AFFORD. Do a little at a time, and your savings will add up over time.
I live in a 1906 3-story American 4-square Colonial. The thing leaked heat like there was no tomorrow, but over 15 years we’ve added insulation, better windows and got in the habit of turning things OFF and DOWN when we weren’t home. I also had the oven on today to bake a quiche for breakfast. Since then, I have also baked a cake, muffins, bacon, and brats. Got it all done in one day and most at the same time. Saves a LOT on natural gas.
We also went on a “budget plan” years ago for both natural gas and electric. We pay a little each month, versus having HUGE heating bills in the winter. We also have some months where we don’t pay a dime. (That’s coming up right now. Usually between August and December we don’t have ANY utility bills. Wa-Hoo!)
Works like a charm for the household Bottom Line.
Were their names Hansel and Gretel?
I just didn’t have the motivation to deal with kelvin square meters per watt (K·m²/W), a cold beer will do that to ya.
Now that I have answers should I hit “abuse” or take my beating? :)
Gosh I just love Freepers. In all honesty, I'm reading this to see if I can learn anything.
Thanks great elder FReeper (10 days - sheesh!) ;)
Pronounced, “Braaahts,” smarty-pants, LOL!
http://www.johnsonville.com/home.html
If that link doesn’t make you drool...you’re either dead or a brain-addled, card-carrying member of PETA, LOL! :)
Slim, When I lived in Alaska, our garage door had what I would guess, the highest R value. They work. At temps reaching -56, my garage would stay at a comfortable 65.
Get the highest you can afford.
By definition a newbie is anyone who signed up after November 24, 2000.
Sorry, but it’s not like I make this stuff up.
I'm sure there is and it probably has something to do with the time it takes for X number of BTU's to raise a specified insulated space 1 degree Celsius, but I have no idea what that would be, but thankfully, the ratio's tell me all I need to know. The higher the R value the better.
We recently built an earth-sheltered home and separate shop with R-50 ICF's (insulated concrete forms) with a closed loop geothermal heating and cooling system. We heat and cool 3500 sq ft for under 700/year.
It’s a 12 year old house, but the garage has always been a weak spot.
Wisconsin... brrrr.... Have a buddy in Kenosha.
I’ve been lookin for a good pirate video to help explain the RRRgh value but alas I’ve had to walk the plank.
Seriously though I’d imagine the weather stripping around the door is more important than the R value of the door itself.
The conversion factor is 1 ft²·°F·h/Btu ≈ 0.1761 K·m²/W, or 1 K·m²/W ≈ 5.67446 ft²·°F·h/Btu
Yes, that’s right, it is proportional.
...that’s in Wisconsin, by the way.
This is America. Speak English!!!
Ooops, forgot to add a math challenged smiley face to post #38. I am in awe of you.
Had a good mix of fixins’.
I think I got a few converts from the Bar-B-Que crowd down here in the Carolinas.
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