The pan is held by ten 10 mm nuts featuring 100% health.
The pan also has two 10 mm nuts, one of which has 100% health. The other nuts is the culprit and...is making my life hell.
I did just buy a hammer (Home Depot is 300 meters from this here Starbucks) and believe it or not I do have chisel in the car.
It didn’t work with the dollar store hammer that I just broke but now I have a much stronger $9 hammer.
Aside - When I brought it into the shop they said:
“Your problem will be fixed with a new Oil Pressure Sender Switch and we can do that in two days...it’ll cost you $200...”
AND THEY WERE SERIOUS..!!! Hahahahhahah.
I switched the switch myself at Autozone for $10.
Machinist’s trick....get another 10mm nut that fits on the stud...run the new nut down to the old nut...tighten the two nuts against each other, locking both onto the stud...this will give you leverage on the nuts to back or pull the stud out.
Get a small (1/2 in or so) triangular file from HD. Lay it flat against the nut and file lightly around the bolt.
Then the nut will start out on the threads with your grips.
Watch alignment and you won’t hurt the bolt.
a triangular file is great for light repairs to threads.
I'm confused. What are the 'two' nuts for? If they don't hold up the pan what do they do?
Good luck.
You mean nuts or bolts? Are there studs sticking out of the engine? Or do bolts go in to threaded holes in the block?
grind it off and tap a new hole ... an awful lot to go through for an oil pan.