Posted on 06/07/2015 9:26:39 PM PDT by djf
Enjoy it and ride often.
That said, as the resident FR bike snob
You’ll need to spend more on that bike than you think
I bet you’ll also need new cables, chain, freewheel/cassette bar tape, brake pads and then need to repack the hubs, bottom Bracket and headset. Then after the must haves you’ll think “Hey that saddle could be replaced.” “How about some lighter wheels?” “Wow I could really use nicer derailleurs”
Just be careful, used bikes don’t have a lot of value and it is easy to invest more in updates than the bike is worth.
You may want to look at one of the online bike shops like Bike Nashbar or Chain Reaction Cycles (I am not affiliated with either of them) If you get a basic tool kit you can do a lot of the maintenance done yourself
If you really get the bug for a nice bike:
http://www.rivbike.com/product-p/f-sam.htm
Is the most comfortable road/light trail bike on Earth.
http://peninsulaclarion.com/stories/081902/ala_081902alapm0060001.shtml#.VXVq089VhBc
I second the mirror recommendation. I ride a lot on country roads with relatively limited traffic. I would not go out without a mirror.
FR really needs a ‘like’ button
I’m one of those jerks you see riding all the time. It’s a Salsa Blackborow fatbike and I ride it year ‘round. I’d encourage you, and everyone to wear a helmet. Most folks I know who ride a lot have fallen and cracked at least one. Save your brain.
A helmet is a good idea. Lots of options out there. Many of the newer helmets are ventilated, lightweight, and pretty comfortable when adjusted to your own noggin. A helmet has helped me many times while mountain biking when I've clipped the bottom of a low hanging tree limbs along a trail.
That's uphill all the way! Just look at a map!
As a casual rider (maybe 100 miles a week at my peak), I concur with the suggestions for gloves (I wear fingerless padded palm style), rearview mirror (I clip one on my eyeglasses), and would add that a decent pair of riding shorts or pants with chamois or terrycloth crotch will make a difference, especially on the few-hours long rides. I also agree with the advice to think of your legs as spinning, not pushing. Get and use toe clips. My comfortable cadence is 90-110. You'll get more mileage out of yourself with less effort by choosing the gear that allows you to spin with modest effort.
One thing to consider is a protective liner between tube and tire.
**************
Curious. What is this liner made of or like? I’ve never
seen one but then I’ve never looked either. Thanks.
Fix it up enough to enjoy riding it, but don’t go crazy. That old a bike frame is likely steel, heavy, and difficult to find modern parts for. You’ll likely find that your bottom bracket, wheel bearings, chain rings & derailleur are all worn - and might not be easy to replace.
Best advice is get it running as smoothly and safely as you can with minimal investment. If you get bitten by the bug (as I did 8 years ago), you’d be better off saving for your next bike. Once you know what proper sizing of the frame is for you, search Craigslist and eBay. It took nearly a year, but I found THE mountain-bike I wanted on eBay, and got it for 1/3 of the new-bike price.
If you ride regularly, you’ll get it great shape in no time. It’s the closest thing to the fountain of youth I’ve found!
On another note, It's because of my rear view mirror that I've actually got so comfortable riding at night that I prefer it to daytime. I go with two rear tail lights and they are bright.... made by Bontrager. I've had a few headlights over the years and my favourite is made by this company.... http://www.lightandmotion.com/choose-your-light/urban the model I have is 500 lumens and the battery lasts more than 12 hours in low power mode. If I'm going on a serious trek, I'll take a spare light with me as well that is quite small that is about 70 lumens and makes for a great backup.... https://www.serfas.com/products/view/144/referer:products%7Cindex%7Clights%7Cheadlights%7Cpage:2 I sometimes fasten it to my helmet if I want to be able to tilt my head to look at things.
Oh and if you get serious, buy a decent set of padded bike shorts....they are not that expensive and make the ride far more enjoyable if it is any serious length at all.
We love biking...wife and I have bike trailers and we go camping with our bikes. Nice time with the kids biking...
My youngest son bike cost us 275...but it is worth it.
I would recommend getting the wheels trued and the derailluer adjusted at a bike shop.
My Diamondback is great... I love it. Found it in a pawn shop for $100...800 bike new.
I’ve had Walmart mongoose mtn bike 29 inch over three years. I’ve had three...all replaced “free” under warranty (about $25 for warranty when purchased)...they sent me my money and tax because no one locally is contracted to fix them. So I keepo the bikes for parts and buy a new one. I put about 5500-6000 miules ona year. I weigh about 280 so I beat the cra* out of the bikes. Cost: about $225 new. Great bikes for the price.
“Curious. What is this liner made of or like? I’ve never
seen one but then I’ve never looked either. Thanks”
I believe they are kevlar.
Have any frame failures?
Word on the street is, that most bikes are max out at 200?
At just under 200,some of my rear wheels have not lasted.
A Velocity cyclocross rim ($$) the spoke pulled a chunk of the rim out!!! Miles from home, with a crescent wrench and disconnected brake, made it in.
Yes, I have and use a tension meter.
Thanks. I’ve ridden a bike for several years for exercise, fixed many
flats but never heard of or saw the inner lining referred to. I knew
they had one on the rim protecting the tube from the spoke connections.
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