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How much to replace HVAC?

Posted on 02/25/2015 7:07:59 AM PST by Phillyred

I am looking into replacing my 25+ year old gas furnace (forced air) and AC unit for a 1900 sq ft home.

How much should I expect to pay total if using existing duct work?

Does anyone have a reputable recent low cost recommendation in the Philadelphia suburbs? Anything to watch out for? Thanks!


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To: Phillyred
Here it would be $5K to $7K depending on the difficulty of the installation.

As an aside ask about a piggy back system, that is a heat-pump combined with a gas furnace. It could save $ in operating costs in a few years enough to justify the extra $1K cost. (at least it does in my area)

21 posted on 02/25/2015 7:44:23 AM PST by virgil283 (..The Founding Fathers!: The Gun loving, Bible thumping, Constitutionalists Who Started America)
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To: Phillyred

Shop around. This time of year you can probably get a deal on the A/C if you’re replacing both at once. Be sure to ask.


22 posted on 02/25/2015 7:45:35 AM PST by DoodleDawg
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To: Phillyred
Cannot imagine less than $5K, especially in Philadelphia area. No offense...

You may want to have existing duct work cleaned/vacuumed out by professionals. Makes a BIG difference especially in older homes. Amazing the stuff that comes out! Prob $600 for your size home. Well worth it.

23 posted on 02/25/2015 7:45:58 AM PST by donozark (On the other side of fear lies freedom)
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To: Phillyred

freepmail for you


24 posted on 02/25/2015 7:52:38 AM PST by Albion Wilde (Why would you want to "fundamentally change" a country you love?)
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To: Phillyred

Is your A/C unit a space-pack system, separate from the furnace? Or, is it part of the entire system? Have you thought about zoned systems? HVAC contractors not only look at square foot estimates but also degree-days in your part of the country. When I was in architecture school, we had to work out optimal BTU output through a series of calculations (now offered in many construction software packages).

My parents’ 60 year-old boiler was working fine but we replaced it in an attempt to conserve energy. The new boiler’s performance is stellar, cutting winter heating bills by more than half even with old, drafty windows. However, I miss the sturdiness of the old boiler.

One of the most efficient sources of even heat is a radiant floor heating system. The Journal of Light Construction has had numerous articles over the years about radiant systems. As an architect, I was leery at first but designed a system for clients in a loft condo to augment the forced-air system that existed; their feet always felt cold. They have been really enjoying it, especially this year.


25 posted on 02/25/2015 7:52:59 AM PST by 12Gauge687
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To: Phillyred

A friend of ours works in the industry and swears Bryant is the best, and the brand he would use in his own home. But it’s not cheap.
I wouldn’t trust Sears with anything after they told me I needed new brakes for my car when I knew they were only a month old.


26 posted on 02/25/2015 7:53:44 AM PST by Wiser now (Socialism does not eliminate poverty, it guarantees it.)
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To: Phillyred
Do yourself a favor and ask your neighbors, co-workers, and maybe even
a couple company owners in the area who they've used and relied on.
Most business owners in your area will be prudent and money wise for value
and could give the best referral. Then go make a deal. If you meet a
company you can trust paying an extra few hundred will be worth it.

Also make darn sure the company you hire is bonded. Ask for their bond number
then call the city to check up on it for being current. Any company who refuses
or distracts from offering you that number by request cannot be trusted, period.
The Bond amount should be well over the amount of the job you are seeking. That's your
insurance that the job will be done right, and completed after they take your deposit.
And read their contract! $50 will get an attorney to look it over for you.

27 posted on 02/25/2015 7:54:44 AM PST by MaxMax (Pay Attention and you'll be pissed off too! FIRE BOEHNER, NOW!)
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To: Hawthorn

I agree completely with Hawthorn above. If you can find a family-owned business that has been around for a long time and who can provide references, at least give them a chance to bid.


28 posted on 02/25/2015 7:55:45 AM PST by Albion Wilde (Why would you want to "fundamentally change" a country you love?)
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To: Wiser now

>> I wouldn’t trust Sears with anything <<

Yep, except the work-clothes department always seems to have exactly what I need, winter or summer.


29 posted on 02/25/2015 7:55:48 AM PST by Hawthorn
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To: Phillyred

If you have the available funds and plan on being in the house more than five years, consider geothermal.

You can get a 30% tax CREDIT and the bills afterward are amazingly low.

In our 5800 sq ft house, our highest electric bill (including all lighting, TVs, electric range, fridge, etc) has been $275 in the past 3 years.

Try to do that with gas forced air heat and AC!

Payoff between just replacing with a modern system and the higher initial cost but lower bills with geo will be five years +-. After that, the lower bills are money in your pocket.


30 posted on 02/25/2015 7:55:52 AM PST by Bartholomew Roberts
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To: Phillyred

Sorry ...if you have to replace a gas furnace with another gas furnace it will be more.


31 posted on 02/25/2015 7:58:21 AM PST by nuconvert ( Khomeini promised change too // Hail, Chairman O)
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To: Phillyred

Thanks for posting this. I’m in the exact same situation, except my AC has a 1986 date on it and still hums right along. I fear it won’t much longer, and summer in South Carolina is unbearable without air conditioning!


32 posted on 02/25/2015 7:58:46 AM PST by PistolPaknMama
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To: virgil283

>>As an aside ask about a piggy back system, that is a heat-pump combined with a gas furnace. It could save $ in operating costs in a few years enough to justify the extra $1K cost. (at least it does in my area)

AKA a dual-fuel system. And I’d check that assumption. What was true before Marcellus Shale natural gas hit the market, may not be true now. Gas prices have dropped significantly, and I believe will stay low for at least 20 years.


33 posted on 02/25/2015 7:58:47 AM PST by FreedomPoster (Islam delenda est)
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To: Phillyred
What Sizes of AC Units Do I Need for 1,900 Square Foot Houses? Read more : http://www.ehow.com/info_12206869_sizes-ac-units-need-1900-square-foot-houses.html
34 posted on 02/25/2015 7:59:51 AM PST by Robert DeLong (u)
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To: Mr. K
How about you just ignore a thread if it doesn't interest you. That's the "conservative way". This was published in the General/Chat area where all sorts of things are talked about.

Actually, although I'm not in the market for HVAC right now, I got some good hints from this thread in case any of my friends are.

35 posted on 02/25/2015 8:01:11 AM PST by 2nd amendment mama ( www.2asisters.org | Self defense is a basic human right!)
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To: Phillyred
What Size Heat Pump Should I Use for an 1800 Square Foot Home?
36 posted on 02/25/2015 8:02:55 AM PST by Robert DeLong (u)
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To: Phillyred
How to Calculate Air Conditioner Size for a House
37 posted on 02/25/2015 8:04:57 AM PST by Robert DeLong (u)
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To: Phillyred
The Best Heat Pump Brands
38 posted on 02/25/2015 8:06:59 AM PST by Robert DeLong (u)
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To: Phillyred

Sometimes, the HVAC company may offer 0% financing over 1-2 years.

For one of the estimates on our most recent installation, we started with our previous system’s installation/maintenance company (got 3 estimates all together). We did ultimately use them for the new system. One of the incentives was their 0% financing for two years. The financing wound up being thru Home Depot. Just divided the total by 24 and paid by auto-bankdraft for 2 years.

Don’t miss a payment though...all interest is due then.


39 posted on 02/25/2015 8:09:02 AM PST by moovova
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To: Phillyred

Let me elaborate a little on Contracts. They are written to protect the Company
from you, not you from the Company. The one key word to watch out for is
Arbitrator. This allows the company protection from Civil suits and forces you
to hire an Arbitrator should any problems arise. This forces you to pay out
of pocket for somebody to negotiate a settlement agreement out of court
and most times also forces you to pay for their Arbitrator afterwards.

This also means a contract that isn't fulfilled cannot be taken to court
until all other means are exhausted, $,$$$.$$

Those arbitrators could cost you into the thousands for a job that costs the same
amount and is an immediate red flag with Any contract, period. That one word is
very common in many contracts so read them carefully. You may also write your own
addendum to any contract before an agreement is met to annul that pesky word.

40 posted on 02/25/2015 8:11:39 AM PST by MaxMax (Pay Attention and you'll be pissed off too! FIRE BOEHNER, NOW!)
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