I think you’re getting the drift that propane is preferable, and I would wholeheartedly agree *especially* for indoor use.
Fuel handling; dealing w/liquid fuel and the opportunity to spill it. Not a big deal outdoors but not nice if you spill indoors trying to fill your heater. Bad deal for kerosene. In a truly rotten situation, should the heater fall over (think: big dog) and produce a leak, say, on an absorbent rug that gets ignited, that’d be a hell of a problem. That is not to say that the same dog knocking a propane heater onto a flammable surface could not ignite things; but there isn’t a spilling liquid involved.
The amount of time a tank might last: Propane, no contest.
The only bad thing about propane is that the vapor is heavier than air. That’s one of the reasons why boaters tend to dislike it. You can have little leak after little leak accumulate in the lower part of a boat’s bilge, and without ventilation, can build up to an explosive mixture over time.
With people walking around and doors being opened from time to time, I can’t see this being an issue.
I have also heard, but it has not been my experience that burning propane in stoves, etc; produce lots of condensation = humidity in a home. That’s a nat gas vs propane comparison, you don’t have that option, otherwise you’d be using nat gas.
Absolutely will. Each gallon of propane burned will generate 6.8 pounds of water vapor. If combustion is not vented to the outside, this large amount of water vapor will raise the humidity inside. How much the humidity goes up is dependent on a number of factors, basically how leaky the structure is to air.
If no leakage of air occurs to the outside, in a 10,000 cubic foot structure (1000 square feet x 10' ceiling), burning 5 pounds of propane will generate ~30 grains of water vapor per pound of air.
That 30 grains per pound will raise the relative humidity at 70F from 50% to 77%, high enough to grow mold nicely.
Burning 10 pounds of propane would raise RH to 99%.