No kidding. Brilliant.
Sounds like a press toward another cash for clunkers scheme.
A Toyota is just starting to get broken in at 100K.
No problem as long as the vehicle is properly maintained. My F-150 has over 339,000 miles on it and aside from some parking lot rash and normal bed wear looks and drives like it did when it was new. Only thing I’ve added to it are nerf style running boards and an upgraded stereo. It does everything I need and best of all, it’s been paid off for years.
My 2007 Honda Odyssey, also known as The Mighty Kong, is on it’s second transmission. I love this mighty beast. I need to get the sliding door mechanisms replaced, and I need to fix an oil leak in the engine — but the Great Ape/Seventh Wonder of the World is paid for, reliable, comfy and has THE BEST sound system in the world (Rivethead that I am, I need to listen to my Germanic/Belgian industiral bands with sonic purity...)
A new transmission is always cheaper than a new car if you think about it. Kong may not be pretty and enviable... but he’s paid for.
2013 Jeep Wrangler 214k miles and lifetime warranty through Chrysler. Oil changes every 5k, Great fun and sound system, I’ll never give it up.
My 2007 Scoobie Legacy GT has about 245k. Had to get the top end rebuilt at 166k. But it’s been a reliable and fun daily driver.
Sure beats paying $60k for a new truck. Ridiculous prices for cars and trucks now.
Car payments suck. Engine repairs are expensive but still better than a car payment. I’m currently having a mechanic put lifters and a cam in my Silverado. They have a known lifter issue related to the afm (active fuel management” system.
My Acura has 260,000. My Sequoia has 255,000. Both run very well. And yes, Einstein, I’m saving money on insurance, property tax, no monthly payment and few repairs.
Had a Geo Prizm over 20 years, but would no longer pass inspection (body rot mostly).
Still ran like a champ - in fact I sold it to a kid down the street who won a demolition derby with it.
Bkmk
He expects it to run forever.
Jalopnik keeps pushing electric cars despite inadequate electric generating capacity, laughable electric grids, the destruction of the environment caused by battery production, and more. And they keep letting their leftist tendencies slip out from out of their dress. There are better auto blogs out there.
Little old lady out west, had a 1997 Isuzu Trooper that needed some techincal fix. She thought about getting another vehicle.
I suggested that she keep the Trooper. Many good mechanical points. Sturdy truck masquerading as an SUV.
I bought a one-owner 1969 VW Beetle from our best friends. They bought it new.
It sat for 22 years in their garage. We trailered it to our garage. It took 18 months to fully restore and has a brand new (beautiful, sparkling blue) paint job.
The engine runs great. Installed a professionally rebuilt original carburetor.
New interior.
Installed a new clutch, pressure plate and throw-out bearing.
Installed a front disc brake kit on front wheels. New rear brake drum shoes. New brake master cylinder.
It has 85k original miles.
With installed interior insulation and pad under new carpet, it is quieter to drive than when new. The outside molding strips are now stainless steel (originals were aluminum).
New VW badges and script. New running boards. New chrome bumpers. New tires. New hub caps. Repainted original wheels. New tail light lenses.
New radio antenna. The AM (only) radio is original and still works but only picks up German language stations.
After installing new upper and lower ball joints and a front-end alignment, it drives perfectly. New shocks. New spark plugs and wires. Original wheel jack.
Original VW horn beeps like a beloved Beetle horn always did.
All factory numbers match as shipped from Wolfsburg, Germany in 1969.
No rust.
An original VW Beetle is an amazingly well-designed and well-built vehicle. No wonder so many were built and sold.
Total cost to buy and restore - about 15K.
It’s so nice, I am afraid to drive it much...kept in the garage most of the time.
I own two 2007 Jeep Liberty SUVs. Small, lighter, turn tight, and converted to right hand drive. I deliver mail in them. The gold one has 260,000+ and the white one has 300,000+ miles.
The engines are fantastic. they just don’t stop running. Both cars have transmissions replaced or repaired, and ball joints and drive shafts are non stop replacement items.
What would I buy new that would possibly take the abuse any better unless built on a truck frame? A truck frame that wouldn’t turn as well or as tightly, and get worse gas mileage on my stop and start daily circuit?
I also own a 2007 Mercury Montego with over 240,000. My wife’s Nissan is our “road tripper” and has passed 200,000 and drives like a new car with a great Bose stereo system. The lowest mileage vehicle I own is my 2013 F150 with 125,000.
Preventive maintenance is the key. We change the oil and other fluids well before the guidelines and use only synthetic oil. We replace small parts and other sub-systems well before trouble appears. We keep the electronic fuel control system in top shape by replacing all of the sensors periodically, usually within 60K. I have also found it good to reground the frame, engine block, and chassis. The sensors are sensitive to even less that 1/2 a volt and the system is usually grounded only by a strap to the block at the starter. Adding multiple grounds directly from the battery terminal to other points, keeps all of the sensors functioning properly.
I’m almost 55, I’ve only owned 3 cars. Number 1 got beat to death over the course of about 15 years. Number 2 had a good run until some dumb chick made an illegal left in front of it causing number 3 to happen. Jeeze, I’m now realizing that was almost 10 years ago. It doesn’t feel like a 10 year old car. Except the speakers. I really need new speakers.
I drive mine to at least 250k then evaluate.. just do regular oil and transmission service and it’s easy to go allot of years with no payments. At the end i usually give them to a young mechanic kid i know.
No more new cars for us either. Beginning in the mid-90’s most vehicles were good for well over 200,000 miles. All that’s required is to change fluids and filters, keep good rubber on them and wash them once in a while.
The newer the vehicles are the more spy crap that’s on them. Our last new one, a 2018 F150 depreciated $24,000 as soon as we drove it off the lot.
It’s a helluva lot cheaper to fix them as you go.