Ok Martin Markwell. An angel was obviously on your shoulder!
Now, if you were such an experienced surfer....(and thank goodness you were able to ride to safety)...WHAT were you doing in the ocean when the tide went OUT like it did!!!!!
Credit where it's due -- unlike a lot of folks, after the first one he realized that *another* one was on the way, and got himself and his family the heck out of there immediately.
Too many other people went *towards* the beach to look at the strange events after the first wave came in, then got caught by "The Big One".