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Let's talk washers and dryers.

The washers and dryers today have sensors to meet EPA Standards.

I want to put a big frontloader washer and dryer in my garage which hardly ever gets too cold. When the plumber looked at the set up he said, you are right, there is no danger of the pipes freezing, however, there is water in all the sensors of the washers (and probably dryers) and that minute amount of water will freeze and ruin the sensor and render the equipment inoperable.

I have been thinking about this. Is there a way to find a good workhorse big frontloader washer and dryer, bypass the electronics and just have them have mechanical dials that do wash spin rinse repeat, or time the dry of x minutes? Without sensors. so the only water I need to concern my self with would be the pipe in and the drain?

Your input appreciated.

1 posted on 06/19/2012 6:05:54 PM PDT by Chickensoup
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To: Chickensoup

Might be simpler to just find an old washer and dryer that don’t have the modern electronics.


2 posted on 06/19/2012 6:12:05 PM PDT by DuncanWaring (The Lord uses the good ones; the bad ones use the Lord.)
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To: Chickensoup

Bypass the sensors.


3 posted on 06/19/2012 6:12:11 PM PDT by lewislynn ( What does the global warming movement and the Fairtax movement have in commom? Misinformation)
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To: Chickensoup
Small, low power heater tape to keep it above freezing. $12 at Lowes, last I looked.

/johnny

4 posted on 06/19/2012 6:14:13 PM PDT by JRandomFreeper (Gone Galt)
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To: Chickensoup

The simplest would be to get good used machines that already have the mechanical controls.

How often and how cold is hardly ever?


6 posted on 06/19/2012 6:14:23 PM PDT by Elderberry
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To: Chickensoup
My parents have a washer/dryer in their garage, but they live in the New Port Richey, FL area. Where do you live?

I can't imagine any sensor in the dryer that has minute amounts of water in it. Dryers usually have two metal strips that measure conductivity between them. When wet clothes touch the strips, a small current flows, signifying that the clothes are still wet. When they dry, the current no longer flows, and the dryer ends the dry cycle.

The washer usually has a water level sensor for measuring how much water is in the wash tub, for small, medium, or large loads, but are dry when not being used. There is also a temperature sensor so that the washer can mix hot water and cold water to make "warm" wash water, and again they're not wet when not in use.

Your main source of freeze damage are the hoses that run from the water spigots to the washer, and the solenoid operated water valves that open to fill the wash tub. If eitehr of those freeze and split, then when they thaw you will pour water into your garage until you shut off the taps at the wall. And there is no way to "bypass" these in the way that you ask.

The main question is how cold does it get where you live? A couple of 30° nights won't freeze pipes, but a day or two of 20° weather will.

11 posted on 06/19/2012 6:18:41 PM PDT by Yo-Yo
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To: Chickensoup

Well my dryer tore up yesterday. Today I took it apart and noticed the belt which goes around the tub is broken. It is a hair over 92 inches and it seems a whole lot of replacement belts are that exact same size but they are 1/4 inch wide while mine is 5/8 inch wide. Also mine has four grooves and all the replacements have 3 but say they will work on many with four grooves.

Should I just buy the belt even if it is a tiny bit too narrow? Prices are generally not bad.


12 posted on 06/19/2012 6:19:07 PM PDT by yarddog
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To: Chickensoup

When Ihad a Maytag washer in my unheated garage, I ran RV antifreeze through it bsfore storing it for the winter, three winters, and it workrd OK in the spring. But this was several years ago maybe those new sensors were not yet in my washer at that time


14 posted on 06/19/2012 6:21:21 PM PDT by tommix2 (,)
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To: Chickensoup

Put a small electric baseboard heater in the garage near the washer. Take the edge off the cold and keep the temperature above 35 degrees.


16 posted on 06/19/2012 6:22:56 PM PDT by muir_redwoods (I like Obamacare because Granny signed the will and I need the cash)
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To: Chickensoup

Years ago, I owned a couple of coin operated laundries that utilized tumble action washing machines. This was before all the electronics and therefore the machines used electromechanical timers to move them through the cycles. I was my own mechanic ( and I am, as it turns out a degreed Mechanical Engineer), and I can tell you that there were no sensors that contained water. You had a solenoid controlled mixing valve that admitted hot and cold water ( just like the machines do today) and you had a sump and a pump with a solenoid-operated dump valve to allow the water to be removed from the machine. Today, we have a modern tumble action washer (Maytag) here at home. I have had to make repairs on it and I have yet to find any sensor that contains any water. Water levels are managed by a pressure switch but the switch itself is dry. Frankly, I don’t know what your plumber is talking about, but then I only know about the equipment that I have owned. Perhaps he is concerned that because of the small amount of water in the mixing valve when it is not being used, that it could be more susceptible to freezing, but other than that, I cant ‘t imagine what concerns him.


19 posted on 06/19/2012 6:25:07 PM PDT by vette6387
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To: Chickensoup

Don’t even consider a front loading washer.


23 posted on 06/19/2012 6:29:35 PM PDT by gorush (History repeats itself because human nature is static)
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To: Chickensoup
Same as I do in my pump-house. Install a heater of appropriate size... could be a small electric heater, heater tape, or even a light bulb. Then connect it to this:

Thermo-cube

26 posted on 06/19/2012 6:31:23 PM PDT by Rio (Tempis fugit.)
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To: Chickensoup

You live in Maine and your garage doesn’t get “too” cold? What does that mean?


33 posted on 06/19/2012 6:37:36 PM PDT by afraidfortherepublic
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To: Chickensoup

I always buy used washers & dryers and so far they’ve all lasted a really long time. I’ve rebuilt the dryer once when the belt broke. I don’t care what they look like because they’re in the garage.

When in doubt about anything, Google first.


36 posted on 06/19/2012 6:40:05 PM PDT by bopdowah ("Unlike King Midas, whatever the Gubmint touches sure don't turn to Gold!')
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To: Chickensoup

Buy a used set of commercial washer/dryers. they won’t be cheap.


38 posted on 06/19/2012 6:41:24 PM PDT by mamelukesabre
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To: Chickensoup

Salve

Wait a minute friend.. climate you are living in? Winter, Spring, Summer, Autum? Tempetures?

Merci.


44 posted on 06/19/2012 6:47:57 PM PDT by MCSP2008 (Romanian native > ESL)
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To: Chickensoup

Has a front-load washer in a shed behind the house for two years - no heat. I had no problems. This was in central Mississippi so we are not talking about sever freezes for prolonged times.


53 posted on 06/19/2012 6:55:18 PM PDT by Red_Devil 232 (VietVet - USMC All Ready On The Right? All Ready On The Left? All Ready On The Firing Line!)
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To: Chickensoup
Don't get a frontloader.They are all designed with a stainless steel drum (which will last forever) that is attached to what is called a spider arm mount.This arm is made from aluminum casting and will last about 5 years before dissolving and failing during a high speed spin.

The design is really clever,aluminum and stainless steel are on opposite ends of the galvanic reactivity scale,which means that once immersed in water the spider becomes the anode,and the drum becomes the cathode which means that one is consumed by the other.It is in effect a battery.

Where the manufacturers really cash in is that the spider and drum are only sold as an assembly and not separately,and at a cost of about $500.

So there you have it..you have been warned.Don't believe?then do a google look-up "washer drum galvanic corrosion".I wouldn't touch one of these things with a ten foot pole.

65 posted on 06/19/2012 7:03:25 PM PDT by pricilla (one should always try to be smarter than the equipment one is operating - Amajato)
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To: Chickensoup

Speed Queen. Made in Ripon, Wisconsin. No electronics and you can defeat the EPA parts like wash and rinse temperature and tub water levels.

All steel or stainless. Buy locally and they’ll probably “set them up” for you.

They will probably last decades. All but immune to lighting and power outages as well.


68 posted on 06/19/2012 7:05:20 PM PDT by Sequoyah101 (You've been screwed by your government.)
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To: Chickensoup

A 100 watt lightbulb down by the solenoids will keep them warm. I’d get some kind of waterproof cover, though. Heat tape on the hoses to the washer. No sensor has water in it from the factory. They couldn’t ship in winter.


71 posted on 06/19/2012 7:12:42 PM PDT by ebshumidors ( Marksmanship and YOUR heritage http://www.appleseedinfo.org)
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To: Chickensoup

Personally, I would forget about the front loader and just get a reliable old-school washer/dryer.

http://www.speedqueen.com/home/en-us/products.aspx

The Speedqueen is built like a tank.


74 posted on 06/19/2012 7:17:12 PM PDT by smokingfrog ( sleep with one eye open (<o> ---)
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