growing or raising something to feed themselves<<<
You are correct, most who rely on the gov for every need, would never think of growing their own food, it does not matter which country.
I have found it interesting, that some of the younger group are now making having a garden, into an important desire, as in the guerilla gardening that is now going on. post 1836.
Glad you came to the thread and I hope that you will join in posting too.
http://www.frugalfolks.com/files/emergency/100items.txt
100 Items That Disappear First in a Disaster
1. Generators (Good ones cost dearly. Gas storage, risky.
Noisy..target of thieves; maintenance, etc.)
2. Water Filters/Purifiers (Shipping delays increasing.)
3. Portable Toilets (Increasing in price every two months.)
4. Seasoned Firewood (About $100 per cord; wood takes
6 - 12 mos. to become dried, for home uses.)
5. Lamp Oil, Wicks, Lamps (First choice: Buy CLEAR oil.
If scarce, stockpile ANY!)
6. Coleman Fuel (URGENT $2.69-$3.99/gal. Impossible to
stockpile too much.)
7. Guns, Ammunition, Pepper Spray, Knives, Clubs, Bats &
Slingshots
8. Hand-Can openers & hand egg beaters, whisks (Life savers!)
9. Honey/Syrups/white, brown sugars
10. Rice - Beans - Wheat (White rice is now $12.95 - 50# bag.
Sam’s Club, stock depleted often.)
11. Vegetable oil (for cooking) (Without it food burns/must be boiled, etc.)
12. Charcoal & Lighter fluid (Will become scarce suddenly.)
13. Water containers (Urgent Item to obtain. Any size. Small:
HARD CLEAR PLASTIC ONLY)
14. Mini Heater head (Propane) (Without this item, propane won’t
heat a room.)
15. Grain Grinder (Non-electric)
16. Propane Cylinders
17. Michael Hyatt’s Y2K Survival Guide (BEST single y2k handbook
for sound advice/tips.)
18. Mantles: Aladdin, Coleman, etc. (Without this item,
longer-term lighting is difficult.)
19. Baby Supplies: Diapers/formula/ointments/aspirin, etc
20. Washboards, Mop Bucket w/wringer (for Laundry)
21. Cookstoves (Propane, Coleman & Kerosene)
22. Vitamins (Critical, due 10 Y2K-forced daily canned food diets.)
23. Propane Cylinder Handle-Holder (Urgent: Small canister use is
dangerous without this item.)
24. Feminine Hygiene/Haircare/Skin products
25. Thermal underwear (Tops and bottoms)
26. Bow saws, axes and hatchets & Wedges (also, honing oil)
27. Aluminum foil Reg. & Hvy. Duty (Great Cooking & Barter item)
28. Gasoline containers (Plastic or Metal)
29. Garbage bags (Impossible to have too many.)
30. Toilet Paper, Kleenex, paper towel
31. Milk - Powdered & Condensed (Shake liquid every 3 to 4 months.)
32. Garden seeds (Non-hybrid) (A MUST)
33. Clothes pins/line/hangers (A MUST)
34. Coleman’s Pump Repair Kit: 1(800) 835-3278
35. Tuna Fish (in oil)
36. Fire extinguishers (or.. large box of Baking soda in every room...)
37. First aid kits
38. Batteries (all sizes...buy furthest-out for Expiration Dates)
39. Garlic, spices & vinegar, baking supplies
40. BIG DOGS (and plenty of dog food)
41. Flour, yeast & salt
42. Matches (3 box/$1 .44 at WalMart: “Strike Anywhere” preferred.
Boxed, wooden matches will go first.)
43. Writing paper/pads/pencils/solar calculators
44. Insulated ice chests (good for keeping items from freezing in Wintertime)
45. Workboots, belts, Levis & durable shirts
46. Flashlights/LIGHTSTICKS & torches, “No.76 Dietz” Lanterns
47. Journals, Diaries & Scrapbooks (Jot down ideas, feelings,
experiences: Historic times!)
48. Garbage cans Plastic (great for storage, water, transporting -
if with wheels)
49. Men’s Hygiene: Shampoo, Toothbrush/paste,
Mouthwash/floss, nail clippers,etc
50. Cast iron cookware (sturdy, efficient)
51. Fishing supplies/tools
52. Mosquito coils/repellent sprays/creams
53. Duct tape
54. Tarps/stakes/twine/nails/rope/spikes
55. Candles
56. Laundry detergent (Liquid)
57. Backpacks & Duffle bags
58. Garden tools & supplies
59. Scissors, fabrics & sewing supplies
60. Canned Fruits, Veggies, Soups, stews, etc.
61. Bleach (plain, NOT scented: 4 to 6% sodium hypochlorite)
62. Canning supplies (Jars/lids/wax)
63. Knives & Sharpening tools: files, stones, steel
64. Bicycles...Tires/tubes/pumps/chains, etc.
65. Sleeping bags & blankets/pillows/mats
66. Carbon Monoxide Alarm (battery powered)
67. Board Games Cards, Dice
68. d-Con Rat poison, MOUSE PRUFE II, Roach Killer
69. Mousetraps, Ant traps & cockroach magnets
70. Paper plates/cups/utensils (stock up, folks...)
71. Baby Wipes, oils, waterless & Anti-bacterial soap
(saves a lot of water)
72. Rain gear, rubberized boots, etc.
73. Shaving supplies (razors & creams, talc, after shave)
74. Hand pumps & siphons (for water and for fuels)
75. Soysauce, vinegar, boullions/gravy/soup base
76. Reading glasses
77. Chocolate/Cocoa/Tang/Punch (water enhancers)
78. “Survival-in-a-Can”
79. Woolen clothing, scarves/ear-muffs/mittens
80. BSA - New 1998 - Boy Scout Handbook
(also, Leader’s Catalog)
81. Roll-on Window Insulation Kit (MANCO)
82. Graham crackers, saltines, pretzels, Trail mix/Jerky
83. Popcorn, Peanut Butter, Nuts
84. Socks, Underwear, T-shirts, etc. (extras)
85. Lumber (all types)
86. Wagons & carts (for transport to & from open Flea markets)
87. Cots & Inflatable mattresses (for extra guests)
88. Gloves: Work/warming/gardening, etc.
89. Lantern Hangers
90. Screen Patches, glue, nails, screws, nuts & bolts
91. Teas
92. Coffee
93. Cigarettes
94. Wine/Liquors (for bribes, medicinal, etc.)
95. Paraffin wax
96. Glue, nails, nuts, bolts, screws, etc.
97. Chewing gum/candies
98. Atomizers (for cooling/bathing)
99. Hats & cotton neckerchiefs
100. Goats/chickens
[Not all topics moved, sharks and airplanes are at link]
http://www.frugalfolks.com/files/emergency/Survival%20Tips.txt
How to Escape from Quicksand
1. When walking in quicksand country, carry a stout pole-it will help you
get out should you need to.
2. As soon as you start to sink, lay the pole on the surface of the quicksand.
3. Flop onto your back on top of the pole.
After a minute or two, equilibrium in the quicksand will be achieved, and
you will no longer sink.
4. Work the pole to a new position under your hips, and at right angles to
your spine.
The pole will keep your hips from sinking, as you (slowly) pull out first
one leg, and then the other.
5. Take the shortest route to firmer ground, moving slowly.
How to Avoid Sinking
Quicksand is just ordinary sand mixed with upwelling water, which makes it
behave like a liquid. However, quicksand-unlike water-does not easily let
go. If you try to pull a limb out of quicksand, you have to work against
the vacuum left behind. Here are a few tips
The viscosity of quicksand increases with shearing move slowly so the
viscosity is as low as possible.
Floating on quicksand is relatively easy and is the best way to avoid its
clutches. You are more buoyant in quicksand than you are in water. Humans
have a specific gravity just under 1.00, while fresh water has a specific
gravity of 1.00. Saltwater is slightly more dense at 1.02, and floating is
significantly easier in saltwater than in freshwater. Spread your arms and
legs far apart and try to float on your back.
~*~ How To Deal With A Tunnel Collapse
Structural collapse of a tunnel is possible, but fire danger is more
significant, and will likely precipitate any structural failure.
1. Communicate. If you have a cellular phone, call for help immediately.
2. Look for marked and lighted emergency phones in the tunnel if no
cellular phone is available or if your cell phone is inoperable.
3. Check the air quality. If smoke is visible and breathing becomes
difficult, do not wait for help. Get out of the tunnel as quickly as
possible, and leave your car behind.
4. Stay low. If smoke is close by, breathable air will be lower to the
ground. If available, use a wet blanket over your nose and mouth.
5. Look for emergency exits. All tunnels should have well-marked emergency
exits to the surface. Locate the nearest one and get out of the tunnel. If
you are close enough to see the tunnel entrance, exit that way. Do not look
for an emergency exit.
6. If fire is present, do not prop open emergency exit doors: this may
cause the exitway to fill with smoke. Do not hesitate to leave your car behind.
Tunnel dangers
Road and rail tunnels disasters are uncommon, but when they do occur, death
is generally caused not by collapse but by one of the following:
Smoke. Cars with engines running produce carbon monoxide, which is deadly.
Fires produce even more. A severe fire may cause ventilation systems to fail.
Heat. While extremely rare, tunnels can collapse due to structural
deterioration caused by the heat from a severe fire. Bricks tunnels are
very safe, but concrete can break down badly if it has no fire protection.
For this reason, most concrete is fireproofed. Death in a tunnel fire is
usually due to fire or smoke, not structural failure.
Road tunnels
While tunnels have effective ventilation systems, severe fires can cause
death by asphyxiation. If in a tunnel fire, ask yourself the following
questions immediately.
How can I continue to breathe relatively unpolluted air ?
Does the tunnel have designated “places of safety” along its length for use
in emergency ?
Are emergency exits visible?
Where are the means of communication?
Is fire warning/fighting equipment nearby?
Rail tunnels
The main danger in rail tunnels is fire, followed by derailment, followed
by structural collapse of the tunnel.
Circular tunnels are very resistant to collapse provided they are built
properly and they are inspected regularly. There are hundreds of rail
tunnels around the world built more than 100 years ago that are still
safely in use.
A severe train derailment is unlikely to damage the tunnel structure to the
point of collapse. (This was considered during the design of the Channel
Tunnel, the biggest and most expensive tunnel project in the world).
Flooding of subway tunnels is a possibility, though such a flood would
likely be due to slow rising of the water level rather than a catastrophic
event.
In the event of catastrophic flooding, rescue would be unlikely. In
addition to the water danger, electrocution would also be a distinct
possibility.
How to Take a Punch
Take a Blow to the Body
1. Tighten your stomach muscles.
A body blow to the gut (solar plexus) can damage organs and kill. This sort
of punch is one of the best and easiest ways to knock someone out. (Harry
Houdini was killed by an unexpected blow to the abdomen.)
2. Do not suck in your stomach if you expect that a punch is imminent.
3. If possible, shift slightly so that the blow hits your side, but do not
flinch or move away from the punch.
Try to absorb the blow with your obliques this is the set of muscles on
your side that wraps around your ribs. While a blow to this area may crack
a rib, it is less likely to do damage to internal organs.
Take a Blow to the Head
1. Move toward the blow, not away from it.
Getting punched while moving backward will result in the head taking the
punch at full force. A punch to the face can cause head whipping, where the
brain moves suddenly inside the skull, and can cause severe injury or death.
2. Tighten your neck muscles and clench your jaw to avoid scraping of the
upper and lower palettes.
To Fend off a Straight Punch
1. The straight punch-one that comes straight at your face-should be
countered by moving toward the blow.
2. A punch can be absorbed most effectively and with the least injury by
the forehead.
Avoid getting taking the punch in the nose, which is extremely painful.
3. Attempt to deflect the blow with an arm.
Moving into the punch may result in your attacker missing the mark wide to
either side.
4. (optional) Hit back with an uppercut or roundhouse.
To Fend off a Roundhouse Punch
1. Clench your jaw.
A punch to the ear causes great pain and can break your jaw.
2. Move in close to your attacker.
Try to make the punch land harmlessly behind your head.
3. (optional) Hit back with an uppercut.
To Fend off an Uppercut
1. Clench your neck and jaw.
An uppercut can do much damage, whipping your head back, easily breaking your
jaw or your nose.
2. Use your arm to absorb some of the impact or deflect the blow to the
side-anything to minimize the impact of a straight punch to the jaw.
3. Do not step into this punch.
If possible, move your head to the side.
4. (optional) Hit back with a straight punch to the face or with an
uppercut of your own.
~*~ How to Jump from a Building into a Dumpster
How to Jump
1. Jump straight down.
If you leap off and away from the building at an angle, your trajectory
will make you miss your dumpster. Resist your natural tendency to push off.
2. Tuck your head and bring your legs around.
To do this during the fall, execute a three-quarter revolution-basically, a
not-quite-full somersault. This is the only method that will allow a proper
landing, with your back facing down.
3. Aim for the center of the Dumpster.
4. Land flat on your back so that when your body folds, your feet and hands
meet.
When your body hits any surface from a significant height, the body folds
into a V. This means landing on your stomach can result in a broken back.
Risks
If the building has fire escapes or other protrusions, your leap will have
to be far enough out so you miss them on your way down. The landing target
needs to be far enough from the building for you to hit it.
The Dumpster may be filled with bricks or other unfriendly materials. It is
entirely possible to survive a high fall (five stories or more) into a
Dumpster, provided the Dumpster is filled with the right type of trash
(cardboard boxes are best) and you land correctly.
~*~ How to Jump from a Bridge or Cliff into a River
When attempting a high fall (over twenty feet) into water in an emergency
situation, you will not know much about your surroundings, specifically the
depth of the water. This makes jumping particularly dangerous.
If jumping from a bridge into a river or other body of water with boat
traffic, try to land in the channel-the deep-water area where boats go
under the bridge. This area is generally in the center, away from the
shoreline.
Stay away from any area with pylons that are supporting the bridge. Debris
can collect in these areas and you can hit it when you enter the water.
Swim to shore immediately after surfacing.
How to Jump
1. Jump feet first.
2. Keep your body completely vertical.
3. Squeeze your feet together.
4. Enter the water feet first, and clench your buttocks together.
If you do not, water may rush in and cause severe internal damage.
5. Protect your crotch area by covering it with your hands.
6. Immediately after you hit the water, spread your arms and legs wide and
move them back and forth to generate resistance, which will slow your
plunge to the bottom.
Always assume the water is not deep enough to keep you from hitting bottom.
Risks
Hitting the water in this way could save your life, although it may break
your legs.
If your body is not straight, you can break your back upon entry. Keep
yourself vertical until you hit the water.
Do not even think about going in headfirst unless you are absolutely sure
that the water is at least twenty feet deep. If your legs hit the bottom,
they will break. If your head hits, your skull will break.
~*~ How to Treat a Bullet or Knife Wound
1. Do not immediately pull out any impaled objects.
Bullets, arrows, knives, sticks and the like cause penetrating injuries.
When these objects lodge in the vital areas of the body (the trunk or near
nerves or arteries) removing them may cause more severe bleeding that
cannot be controlled. The object may be pressed against an artery or other
vital internal structure and may actually be helping to reduce the bleeding.
2. Control the bleeding by using a combination of direct pressure, limb
elevation, pressure points, and tourniquets (in that order).
Direct pressure. You can control most bleeding by placing direct pressure
on the wound. Attempt to apply pressure directly to bleeding surfaces. The
scalp, for instance, bleeds profusely. Using your fingertips to press the
edges of a scalp wound against the underlying bone is more effective than
using the palm of your hand to apply pressure over a wider area. Pressing
on bleeding arterioles (small squirting vessels) is also controlled better
using the tips of the fingers. While surgeons sometimes clamp bleeding
vessels with a hemostat, the novice is at high risk of inadvertently
harming nerves and other tissues.
Elevation. When a wound is in an extremity, elevation of the extremity
above the heart, in addition to direct pressure, may reduce the bleeding
further. Never make people who are in shock sit up simply to elevate a
bleeding wound.
Presssure points. To reduce blood flow you usually have to compress an
artery (where you can feel the pulse) near the wound against an underlying
bone. Just pressing into the soft belly of a muscle does not reduce blood
flow by this mechanism.
Tourniquet. A tourniquet is a wide band of cloth or a belt that is placed
around an extremity and tightened (usually using a windlass) until the
blood flow is cut off. The amount of pressure necessary typically causes
additional vascular and nerve trauma that is permanent. Thus a tourniquet
should only be used as a last resort—to save a life at the expense of
sacrificing a limb. The blood supply must be compressed against a long bone
(the upper arm or upper leg) since vessels between the double bones in the
lower arm and lower leg will continue to bleed despite a tourniquet. It
should be noted that tourniquets are rarely helpful—it is uncommon to have
life-threatening bleeding in an extremity that cannot be controlled by the
methods described above. The areas that cause fatal bleeding (like the
femoral arteries or intra-abdominal bleeding) do not lend themselves to the
use of a tourniquet. Even most complete amputations do not bleed all that
much, and are controlled by direct pressure. Arteries that are severed only
part of the way through tend to bleed more profusely than those that are
completely severed.
3. Immobilize the injured area.
Using splints and dressings to immobilize an injured area helps protect
from further injury and maintain clots that have begun to form. Even if an
injury to a bone or joint is not suspected, immobilization will promote
clotting and help healing begin.
4. Dress the wound, and strive to prevent infection.
Use sterile (or at least clean) dressings as much as possible. Penetrating
injuries may allow anaerobic (air-hating) bacteria to get deep into the
tissues. This is why penetrating wounds are typically irrigated with
sterile or antibiotic solutions in surgery. While this is rarely practical
outside of the hospital, it is important to remember that smaller
penetrating wounds (nail holes in the foot and the like) should be
encouraged to bleed for a short period to help “wash out” foreign material.
Soaking an extremity in Hydrogen peroxide may help kill anaerobic bacteria
as well. Do not apply ointments or goo into penetrating wounds as these may
actually promote infection.
Emergency Tip
Some data indicates that pure granular sugar poured into a penetrating
wound can decrease bleeding, promote clotting, and discourage bacteria. You
are not likely to see it used in your local emergency department, but it
might be worth consideration if your circumstances are dire.
5. Get medical attention as soon as possible.
~*~ How to Perform a Tracheotomy
This procedure, technically called a cricothyroidotomy, should be
undertaken only when a person with a throat obstruction is not able to
breathe at all-no gasping sounds, no coughing-and only after you have
attempted to perform the Heimlich maneuver three times without dislodging
the obstruction. If possible, someone should be calling for paramedics
while you are proceeding.
What You Will Need
A first aid kit, if available
A razor blade or very sharp knife
A straw (two would be better) or a ballpoint pen with the inside
(ink-filled tube) removed. If neither a straw nor a pen is available, use
stiff paper or cardboard rolled into a tube. Good first-aid kits may
contain “trache” tubes.
There will not be time for sterilization of your tools, so do not bother;
infection is the least of your worries at this point.
1. Find the person’s Adam’s apple (thyroid cartilage).
2. Move your finger about one inch down the neck until you feel another bulge.
This is the cricoid cartilage. The indentation between the two is the
cricothyroid membrane, where the incision will be made.
3. Take the razor blade or knife and make a one- to two-centimeter (about
half an inch) horizontal incision.
The cut should be about half an inch deep. There should not be too much blood.
4. Pinch the incision open or place your finger inside the slit to open it.
5. Insert your tube in the incision, roughly one-half to one inch deep.
6. Breathe into the tube with two quick breaths.
Pause five seconds, then give one breath every five seconds.
7. You will see the chest rise and the person should regain consciousness
if you have performed the procedure correctly.
The person should be able to breathe on their own, albeit with some
difficulty, until help arrives.
http://www.frugalfolks.com/files/emergency/car.txt
Here is a list of what the writer has rattling around in the trunk of their car.
Misc. loose stuff
Jumper Cables
Wool Blanket
Poncho
“Space” blanket(aluminized mylar)
“Space” sleeping bag
Plastic reinforced tarp w/grommets, one side camo, other side aluminized mylar
Large Screwdriver
Vice-grips
Leather work gloves
Magnesium bar/flint
KA-BAR knife
Box of heavy trash bags.
Spare fans belts, fuel filter, oil filter, oil, wiper blades
Machete
Folding shovel/pick
ground cloth (4 mil plastic drop cloth)
Spinner wrench
Fire extingusher
Tow rope w/hooks
12 volt DC spot light, flouresent light, and work light (magnetic mount)
Plank of wood( to use under car jack on soft ground)
Tire pump, tire gauge
Parka with 2 pr. gloves, wristlets(sock with toe removed to cover up the wrist
between glove and sleeve), wool scarf, pen, pencil, paper, handkerchief
cheapo $9.95 style 40 pc. socket set english and metric
1 gal. of water
Wood for splints
NEED TO ADD: Flares
Medical kit (13” X 10 1/2” X 2 1/4” box)
Cotton swabs
Fever Themometer
“Kling” rolled gauze 4” X 5 yards
80 assorted strip and spot band-aids
4 pr. disposable gloves
Cylume sticks 1 red, 1 yellow
Wet-proof adhesive tape 1/2” X 10 yards
Paper adhesive tape 1/2” 5 yards
4 oz. drinking water, retort pack
Eye bath cup (1 Tblspn capacity)
Neosporin (antibiotic cream)
6 - 2” X 3” pads
7 - 2” X 3” adhesive pads
4 - Butterfly closures
5 - 1 1/2” X 2” pads
10 - 3” X 4” adhesive pads
7 - 4” X 4” pads
5 - 2” X 3” Biolclusive dressings
1 - triangle bandage
12 - safety pins
2 - 2 gal. zip-loc bags
1 - Cold compress, crush to activate type
Pump style snake venom remover
TRIAGE - EMERGENCY CARE HANDBOOK 191 pages 7” x 9”
Vial of Boric Acid Powder (mix 1/64 tsp. of B(OH)3 to 1 Tbl. for eyewash)
Vial of Alchohol
Vial of Hydrogen Peroxide
Vial of Witch Hazel
Vial of Dr. Orient’s electrolyte replacement formula
Contents of 1 - 15” X 5 1/2” X 11” mortar box or 2 - 7” X 5 1/2” X 11” 50 cal.
boxes (weight of mortar box 7.625 pounds, contents 10.625 lb., total 18.25 lb.)
Wool Balaclava (pullover for head and neck)
G.I. leather/fabric mittens long wrist w/ wool liner gloves
Israeli gas mask w/filter
Wool socks
8 oz. butterscotch
Wire saw
Ontario pilot knife w/ sheath and stone
Dental floss, waxed (50 yd.) and unwaxwd (200 yd.)
3” X 5” signal mirror
Dental floss handle
Funnel w/filter paper holder
Filter paper (fast and slow)
Pocket purifier water straw
Cylume sticks, 12 hr. 2-red, 2-yellow, 1-green
5 feet glow in the dark string
Toothbrush
Vial of Metalic Iodine crystals
pocket knife
multi-sizing wrench
5 pr. disposable gloves
doz. balloons
Potassium Iodide
Magnesium bar w/flint insert
3 boxes waterproof matches
6 ft. tape ruler
Whistle w/lanyard
Folding camper’s stove with 2 packs of hexamine
“space” blanket
“Dynamo” flashlight (hand squeezed generator flashlight)
500 aspirin
5 sticks gum
36 - 100mg caffeine tablets
3 - survival candles 2”D X 3/4” in metal cup
1 lb. baking soda
Butane lighter
7:1 block and tackle w/ 60 feet of rope
4 - 2 gal. zip-loc bags
http://www.frugalfolks.com/files/emergency/Protect%20Yourself%20From%20Mosquitoes.txt
What can we do to protect ourselves from mosquitoes?
- Get rid of standing water: empty buckets, plastic containers,
bird baths, unused horse troughs, usused swimming pools
- If you want/need your bird baths or horse troughs full change
the water at least once a week.
- Unclog rooftop gutters
- Discard spare tires or store indoors.
- Drill holes in the bottom of recycling or garbage containers so
water will drain out or put covers on them.
- Turn wheelbarrows & wading pools upside down when not in
use.
- Store boats unside down, cover or drain water weekly.
- If you have a pool make sure it is properly chlorinated and
don’t let standing water accumulate on the cover.
- Fill in low spots in your yard if water sits there for a long time.
- If you have an ornamental pool, stock it with mosquito-eating
fish (e.g., minnows, “mosquito fish,” or goldfish which eat
mosquito larvae)
- If you can’t drain standing water put fine netting (16” mesh)
over it or apply mosquito larvacides.
- Keep weeds and tall grass cut short; adult mosquitoes like a
shady place during hot daylight hours.
- Wear light colored, long sleeved shirts & pants.
- Mosquito’s are most active at dawn & dusk so stay indoors
at that time.
- Use mosquito repellents when outdoors. Use mosquito
repellents with DEET according to product directions. Use a
repellent with less than 10% DEET on children 2 - 12 & never
on infants.
- Use mosquito netting over baby playpens & carriages.
- Repair any holes in your screens.
Here’s some other suggestions which may or may not work but
some are worth a try :-)
- Use mosquito repellent soaps
- Burn citronella candles when outdoors
- Wipe yourself with Bounce Fabric Softener Sheets
- Take one Vitamin B-1 (Thiamin Hydrochloride 100 mg) tablet
a day. The odor the tablet gives out through your skin (you
cannot smell it) repels mosquitoes, black flies, no seeum’s, and
gnat’s. It does not work on stinging insects.
- Don’t eat bananas - apparently gives you a scent that attracts
mosquitoes.
- Vick’s Vaporub mixed about half and half with alcohol.
- Use Avon Skin-so-Soft although I have read it only lasts for 40
minutes.
- Mix clear real vanilla (not the grocery store vanilla extract which
is mostly alcohol) half and half with water. This is the pure vanilla
that is sold in Mexico. If not, health food stores usually carry it
or
can order it for you.
- Put some water in a white dinner plate and add a couple of drops
of Lemon Fresh Joy dish detergent. Set the dish on your porch,
patio, or other outdoor area. I’m not sure what attracts them, the
lemon smell or the white plate color, but mosquitoes flock to it, and
drop dead shortly after drinking the Lemon Fresh Joy/water
mixture, and usually within about 10 feet of the plate.
- Catnip is being tested as a mosquito repellent. The results are not
in. If you decide to try this do not put pure catnip oil on your
skin.
Scientists working on this are using a mix containing 1 - 5% catnip
oil.
- Mosquitoes are attracted to lights so lights AWAY from where
you’re sitting may help but they may just attract more bugs to your
yard!
Are there plants that you can grow in your yard which will repel
mosquitoes? From what I understand - no. I’ve had rose geraniums
and marigolds suggested to me. Some plants like lemon balm,
lemon thyme, rose geranium & citronella have oils in them that are
effective as mosquito repellents. I understand that if you crush the
leaves of lemon balm & rub them on yourself you’ll smell lemony
fresh & the mosquitoes will stay away.
Wishing you a mosquito free summer :-)
+++++++
Wendy Kennedy owns and operates www.CanadianCountryGifts.com
which carries a wonderful selection of country products including
citronella candles & handmade mosquito repellent soaps.
Sign up for her free biweekly newsletter by sending an email to
ccg-request@newsletter.cndcountrygifts.com with `sub’ as the subject.
http://www.frugalfolks.com/files/emergency/LongTerm%20General%20Supplies.txt
LONG TERM STORAGE
GENERAL SUPPLIES FOR FOUR
CAMPING GEAR
36 each Candles
200 each Fire Starters (jelly, ribbon, tablets, impregnated peat
bricks, wax-coated pine cones, magnesium block, flint)
1 each First Aid Kit (see list)
2 each Fishing Kit
4 each Foam Mattress Pads (for under sleeping bags, swags, etc.)
4 cans Insect Repellent
1 each Kettle, huge, with lid (at least lobster pot size) for
boiling water
18 each Light sticks (12 hour)
4 each Lighter (butane)
4 bottles Liquid Detergent for clothes and dish washing
1 each Mosquito Netting
4 each Plastic Sheeting or Tarps (waterproofing between sleeping bag
and ground)
2 each Propane Lanterns and Extension Poles
2 each Propane Tank (20 lb or 9 Kg,)
4 each Propane Wicks or Socks
1 each Portable Clothes Line and Pegs or Clothes Pins
2 each Prescriptions for current medications
4 each Sleeping Bag, Bedroll, Swag or Wool Blankets
1 each Snake Bite Kit
4 each Space Blankets (reflects up to 90% of your body heat and only
weighs 20 oz)
2 each Tents (2 person)
5 each Trash Bags*
1 each Wash Board
1 each Wash Tub for laundry
10 boxes Waterproof Matches
* Purchase the heaviest and largest trash bags available-countless
uses like extra tent, emergency wind/rain protection/keeping pack
and contents dry)
CARRYING ITEMS
4 each Backpack for supplies
4 each Fanny pack for short excursions
1 each Five Gallon Pail with Lid
4 each Water Canteen
CLOTHING
24 each Bandanas (inexpensive shield face, head cover, wash cloth,
bandage, sanitary pad)
12 each Complete Change of Clothing* (3 for each person)
2 each Current Prescription Glasses
12 each Dust Masks
12 each Extra 3 sets of underwear (3 for each person)
8 pair Heavy Socks for boots
4 each Rain Poncho OR Rubberized Parka and Rain Pants (oversized to
layer clothing underneath - these items are preferable over the Rain
Poncho-offers more protection)
4 each Sturdy Boots
4 each Sunglasses
4 pair Tennis Shoes
4 pair Work Gloves, heavy duty
*The majority of people will need to consider seasonal changes.
Every season, update your stored change of clothes for appropriate
weather conditions. In winter, include coats, hats, gloves, thermal
underwear, snow boots and clothes for layering.
COMMUNICATION ITEMS
1 set $1000. in cash and change (during times of disaster charge
cards and checks will not be honored*
2 each Compass of good quality
6 each Notepad
2 each Map of your local area
4 each Pen
4 each Pencil
1 set Phone numbers and addresses of friends/family
1 set Pre-addressed, stamped postcards of friends and family out of
state (if a disaster is widespread, you’ll want to contact someone
out of the area)
1 each Radio (solar or battery powered)
8 each Road Flares (these are not legal is Australia)
1 each Short-wave Radio (plus extra batteries)
12 each Signal Flares (these are not legal in Australia)
4 each Signal Mirror
4 each Signal Whistle
*Money is always hard to tuck away and pretend it isn’t there, but
in this instance, it is a necessity. One can’t assume to put
expenditures on credit cards during a crisis. Think about it.
Whenever you make a purchase, it is always verified by a telephoned
authorization number. If phone lines are down and these numbers are
not obtainable, chances are your purchase won’t be allowed.
COOKING ITEMS
2 rolls Aluminum Foil, heavy weight
2 each Boning Knife
2 each Bread Loaf Pan
1 each Butcher Knife
1 each Camp Stove
1 each Can Opener, manual, heavy duty
1 each Corkscrew
6 each Dish Cloths
1 each Dutch Oven, large with lid, stainless steel best*
Food/Water Supplies (see Long-Term Storage suggestions)
Fuel for Camp Stove (see Propane Tank listed in Camping Gear)
1 each Grater
1 each Grain Grinder, manual
1 each Hot Pad
6 each Melamine Plates and Cups (aluminum gets too hot)
1 each Metal Coffee Maker or Billy Can
1 each Mixing Bowl, Large
1 each Mixing Bowl, Small
2 each Pancake Turners, metal not plastic
1 each Paring Knife
1 roll Plastic Wrap
2 each Quart Containers with Lids (for purifying water, you need 2
so water can be poured back and forth to re-oxygenate)
1 each Sauce Pan, large with lid, stainless steel or cast iron best*
1 each Sauce Pan, small with lid, stainless steel or cast iron best*
1 each Spoons, Metal
2 each Spoons, Wooden
1 each Skillet, large with lid, stainless steel or cast iron best*
5 pkgs Water Purifying Tablets (50 count)
2 each Water Purification System (see article water purifiers)
2 boxes Ziploc Freezer Bags, gallon
2 boxes Ziploc Freezer Bags, quart
*If for some reason you are cooking outside, you’ll need to be
able to cover food to guard against insects. In Australia we
have Blowflies (Blowies in OZ talk) which do rather rude things
(lay maggot eggs) in any meat, given the chance. Using lids will
also expedite all cooking times and boiling water which will
reduce fuel consumption.
INFANT SUPPLIES
3 sets Baby Clothes
2 bottles Baby Powder
2 bottles Baby Wash
2 each Blankets
3 each Bottles
26 boxes Diapers, disposable (24 count)
1 bottle Diaper Rash Ointment
? cans Formula
2 bottles Lotion
1 each Teething Ring
2 boxes Towelettes, Pre-moistened
Toys
LATRINE AND GENERAL HYGIENE
12 pair Surgical Gloves (these are inexpensive and can be obtained
in discount stores)
1 each Camping Potty
2 bottle s Disinfectant
3 gallons Liquid Bleach and Eye Dropper
4 bottles Liquid Detergent for clothes and dish washing
4 each Sponges
2 boxes Steel Wool Pads like Brillo
40 rolls Toilet Paper, rolls flattened
2 boxes Towelettes, Pre-moistened (in addition to ones for infants)
120 each Trash Bags, large (for human waste and misc. rubbish)
4 bottles Vinegar
MISCELLANEOUS
1 each Bible
1 each Board Games: Scrabble, Monopoly, Chess, Backgammon, Checkers,
8 each Books for pleasure
1 set Certified Copies of:
wills,birth, death, marriage certificates and divorce decrees
house and life insurance policies
inventory of valuable household items
deeds and contracts
stocks and bonds
charge card account numbers and their “lost or stolen” notification
numbers
bank account numbers
medical records including immunizations
social security numbers
passports, where pertinent for each family member
*Keep these items in waterproof containers. Many survival
and camping stores sell flat, water tight pouches. If you
have a food vacuum sealer, this is another great use for it!
Ammunition, when appropriate to and if firearm is selected
2 each Firearm, (pistol and rifle recommended, personal choice item
1 each Clock, wind-up manually like Big Ben and Baby Ben
1 each Hunting Knife
2 decks Playing Cards
1 each Magnifying Glass
1 box Paper Clips, assorted sizes
1 box Rubber Bands, assorted sizes
1 box Safety Pins, assorted sizes
1 each Survival Manual
PERSONAL HYGIENE
1 bottle After Shave
2 months Birth Control
2 bottles Body/Hand Lotion
4 each Comb and Brush
1 set Cosmetics
2 each Dental Floss
4 each Deodorant
3 bottles Liquid Soap for personal washing
1 box Panty Liners
1 bottle Perfume
3 pkgs Razor Blades (10 count)
3 bottles Shampoo
1 box Tampons/Sanitary napkins
4 each Toothbrush
3 tubes Toothpaste
1 each Tweezers, pointed
8 each Wash Cloths & Towels
PET CARE
18 each Chew Bones
10 bags Dog Food, dry (4 Kg or 10 Lb each)
2 each Food Bowl
2 each Leash and Collar
2 each Muzzles
5 bags Litter
1 each Litter Box
1 pkg Litter Box Liners
2 each Toys
1 each Water Bowl
? gallon Water*, one gallon per dog per day. For a cat, it is
about 1 pint.
*(Even if it is a small animal, plan on the unexpected.
SOMEBODY will undoubtedly spill their day’s ration and the
pet’s water can be used in emergency.)
SENIOR CARE
2 each Batteries for Wheelchairs and Hearing Aids
1 each Crutches or Walkers, Tips and Pads
2 boxes Denture Care Items
1 spare Eye Glasses
2 months Heart or Blood Pressure Medications
2 months Prescriptions
Special Dietary Items
3 sets Warmer Clothing (generally the elderly have trouble with
poor blood circulation and get cold easier)
TOOLS & HANDYMAN ITEMS
2 each ABC Fire Extinguisher (check for expiration date)
1 each Axe
6 each Bungee Straps (variety of lengths)
1 each Bush or Tree Saw
1 set Buttons, assorted sizes
1 each Crowbar
1 each Drill, Hand-operated
3 rolls Duct Tape
4 each Flashlight (extra batteries, spare bulbs)
1 each Generator, diesel preferably 5 KW
1 each Hammer
1 each Hatchet
1 roll Masking Tape (for labelling, etc)
1 pkg Needles and Thread, assorted “eye” sizes
1 box Pins
1 each Pliers
100’ (30 meters) Nylon Rope
1 each Scissors
1 each Screwdriver, Phillips
1 each Screwdriver, Flat Head
1 each Shovel, Rounded V-shaped for digging
1 each Sledgehammer with short handle
1 each Swiss Army Knife
100’ (30 meters) Twine or Heavy String
1 each Vice Grips
1 each Wire Cutters
1 each Wench and Cable, manual
1 each Wrench
http://www.frugalfolks.com/files/emergency/disaster.txt
From: sheresa
Your Family Disaster Supplies Kit
Disasters happen anytime and anywhere. And when disaster strikes, you may
not have much to respond.
A highway spill of hazardous material could mean instant evacuation.
A winter storm could confine your family at home.
An earthquake, flood, tornado or any other disaster could cut off basic
services - gas, water, electricity and telephones - for days.
After a disaster, local officials and relief workers will be on the scene,
but they cannot reach everyone immediately. You could get help in hours, or
it may take days. Would your family be prepared to cope with the emergency
until help arrives?
Your family will cope best by preparing for disaster before it strikes. One
way to prepare is by assembling a Disaster Supplies Kit. Once disaster hits,
you won’t have time to shop or search for supplies. But if you’ve gathered
supplies in advance, your family can endure an evacuation or home
confinement.
To prepare your kit
Review the checklists in this document.
Gather the supplies that are listed. You may need them if your family is
confined at home.
Place the supplies you’d most likely need for an evacuation in an
easy-to-carry container. These supplies are listed with an asterisk (*).
SUPPLIES
There are six basics you should stock in your home: water, food, first aid
supplies, clothing and bedding, tools and emergency supplies and special
items. Keep the items that you would most likely need during an evacuation
in an easy-to-carry container—suggested items are marked with an
asterisk(*). Possible containers include
a large, covered trash container;
a camping backpack; or a duffle bag.
Water
Store water in plastic containers such as soft drink bottles. Avoid using
containers that will decompose or break, such as milk cartons or glass
bottles. A normally active person needs to drink at least two quarts of
water each day. Hot environments and intense physical activity can double
that amount. Children, nursing mothers and ill people will need more.
Store one gallon of water per person per day (two quarts for drinking, two
quarts for food preparation/sanitation)*
Keep at least a three-day supply of water for each person in your household.
Food
Store at least a three-day supply of non-perishable food. Select foods that
require no refrigeration, preparation or cooking and little or no water. If
you must heat food, pack a can of sterno. Select food items that are compact
and lightweight.
*Include a selection of the following foods in your Disaster Supplies Kit:
Ready-to-eat canned meats, fruits and vegetables
Canned juices, milk, soup (if powdered, store extra water)
Staples—sugar, salt, pepper
High energy foods—peanut butter, jelly, crackers, granola bars, trail mix
Vitamins
Foods for infants, elderly persons or persons on special diets
Comfort/stress foods—cookies, hard candy, sweetened cereals, lollipops,
instant coffee, tea bags
First Aid Kit
Assemble a first aid kit for your home and one for each car. A first aid
kit* should include:
Sterile adhesive bandages in assorted sizes
2-inch sterile gauze pads (4-6)
4-inch sterile gauze pads (4-6)
Hypoallergenic adhesive tape
Triangular bandages (3)
2-inch sterile roller bandages (3 rolls)
3-inch sterile roller bandages (3 rolls)
Scissors
Tweezers
Needle
Moistened towelettes
Antiseptic
Thermometer
Tongue blades (2)
Tube of petroleum jelly or other lubricant
Assorted sizes of safety pins
Cleansing agent/soap
Latex gloves (2 pair)
Sunscreen
Non-prescription drugs
Aspirin or nonaspirin pain reliever
Anti-diarrhea medication
Antacid (for stomach upset)
Syrup of Ipecac (use to induce vomiting if advised by the Poison Control
Center)
Laxative
Activated charcoal (use if advised by the Poison Control Center)
Contact your local American Red Cross chapter to obtain a basic first aid
manual.
SUGGESTIONS AND REMINDERS
Store your kit in a convenient place known to all family members. Keep a
smaller version of the Disaster Supplies Kit in the trunk of your car.
Keep items in air-tight plastic bags.
Change your stored water supply every six months so it stays fresh.
Rotate your stored food every six months.
Re-think your kit and family needs at least once a year. Replace batteries,
update clothes, etc.
Ask your physician or pharmacist about storing prescription medications.
Tools and Supplies
Mess kits, or paper cups, plates and plastic utensils*
Emergency preparedness manual*
Battery-operated radio and extra batteries*
Flashlight and extra batteries*
Cash or traveler’s checks, change*
Nonelectric can opener, utility knife*
Fire extinguisher: small canister, ABC type
Tube tent
Pliers
Tape
Compass
Matches in a waterproof container
Aluminum foil
Plastic storage containers
Signal flare
Paper, pencil
Needles, thread
Medicine dropper
Shut-off wrench, to turn off household gas and water
Whistle
Plastic sheeting
Map of the area (for locating shelters)
Sanitation
Toilet paper, towelettes*
Soap, liquid detergent*
Feminine supplies*
Personal hygiene items*
Plastic garbage bags, ties (for personal sanitation uses)
Plastic bucket with tight lid
Disinfectant
Household chlorine bleach
Clothing and Bedding
*Include at least one complete change of clothing and footwear per person.
Sturdy shoes or work boots*
Hat and gloves
Rain gear*
Thermal underwear
Blankets or sleeping bags*
Sunglasses
Special Items
Remember family members with special needs, such as infants and elderly or
disabled persons.
For Baby*
Formula
Diapers
Bottles
Powdered milk
Medications
For Adults*
Heart and high blood pressure medication
Insulin
Prescription drugs
Denture needs
Contact lenses and supplies
Extra eye glasses
Entertainment—games and books.
Important Family Documents
Keep these records in a waterproof, portable container.
Will, insurance policies, contracts, deeds, stocks and bonds
Passports, social security cards, immunization records
Bank account numbers
Credit card account numbers and companies
Inventory of valuable household goods, important telephone numbers
Family records (birth, marriage, death certificates)
CREATE A FAMILY DISASTER PLAN
To get started...
Contact your local emergency management or civil defense office and your
local American Red Cross chapter.
Find out which disasters are most likely to happen in your community.
Ask how you would be warned.
Find out how to prepare for each.
Meet with your family.
Discuss the types of disasters that could occur.
Explain how to prepare and respond.
Discuss what to do if advised to evacuate.
Practice what you have discussed.
Plan how your family will stay in contact if separated by disaster.
Pick two meeting places:
1) a location a safe distance from your home in case of fire.
2) a place outside your neighborhood in case you can’t return home.
Choose an out-of-state friend as a “check-in contact” for everyone to call.
Complete these steps.
Post emergency telephone numbers by every phone.
Show responsible family members how and when to shut off water, gas and
electricity at main switches.
Install a smoke detector on each level of your home, especially near
bedrooms; test monthly and change the batteries two times each year.
Contact your local fire department to learn about home fire hazards.
Learn first aid and CPR. Contact your local American Red Cross chapter for
information and training.
Meet with your neighbors.
Plan how the neighborhood could work together after a disaster. Know your
neighbors’ skills (medical, technical). Consider how you could help
neighbors who have special needs, such as elderly or disabled persons. Make
plans for child care in case parents can’t get home.
Remember to practice and maintain your plan.
The Federal Emergency Management Agency’s Community and Family Preparedness
Program and the American Red Cross Disaster Education Program are nationwide
efforts to help people prepare for disasters of all types. For more
information, please contact your local or State Office of Emergency
Management, and your local American Red Cross chapter. Ask for “Your Family
Disaster Plan” and the “Emergency Preparedness Checklist.”
Or write to:
FEMA
P.O. Box 70274
Washington, D.C. 20024
FEMA L-189
ARC 4463
http://www.frugalfolks.com/files/emergency/safelady.txt
Subject: FOR WOMEN THAT DRIVE AT NIGHT- NOT A JOKE
BUT A MUST READ.
Pass this on to all your friends, girlfriends, wives, boyfriends,
husbands, sisters, brothers, moms, dads and anyone else you
can think of so that they also can warn the women they love,
cherish and are friends with.
This is a good thing to know. Sometimes emails that get
forwarded are important. I consider this one to think about.
Women Who Drive At Night
In case you haven’t seen the following...please read...very
important for your safety.
I headed for home by myself at approximately 10pm. I was...between
exits...when a car pulled into the right-most lane beside me (I was in
the center lane) and started matching speeds with me. After a minute,
I tried to slow down so he would pass. He slowed, too. I regained my
previous speed, and he sped up with me. Finally after a few minutes
of this, he pulled slightly ahead of me, rolled down his window and
motioned towards my tire as though something was wrong.
The man had already begun to make me nervous by driving alongside
me for some distance on the mostly empty highway, and now my
training took over. “This man is trying to get me off the road by myself
here in the dark,” I thought. This, in case you are unfamiliar with the
area, is basically the middle of nowhere. I know my car. I am very
careful with maintenance,and I am an experienced driver. I know what
a flat tire feels like. I knew my car was fine. I put on my turn signal and
moved to the right-most lane behind the man anyway and slowed down
slightly (there is always the chance that something could have been
wrong, better to be prepared). The other car pulled onto the shoulder
and started slowing down. Now I knew he was definitely trying to get
me to pull over. I passed him, he swerved back on the road and drove
right behind me.
At the next exit, there were two gas stations. They were well lit and
there were a few people there. I exited, he followed. Not only this, but
a car I had not previously noticed, that was in front of us suddenly
swerved off the exit when I put my turn signal on. I know this scenario.
I grew up in some pretty bad areas. I have had training in this. At this
point, everything I had learned was in control. I decided not to stop
anywhere.
By now there was absolutely no doubt that my car was fine. When we
approached the stop sign at the dark, empty intersection after the
gas stations, the car ahead of me put on his left turn signal and
stopped. I checked for traffic as I approached the intersection, then
pulled around him to the right, and headed straight back for the
highway. Both the car that had been ahead and the one that had been
following me turned left across the highway and did not pursue further.
I have now carefully checked my car in a safe place when I knew I was
no longer being followed. It is in perfect condition. This is a classic
scenario for car jackers to use at night. I feel lucky that I was well
prepared and didn’t have to think too much about what to do.
1. Don’t ever let yourself be caught between two cars. Car jackers often
work in pairs, attempting to corner your vehicle.
2. Don’t ever pull off the road at night by yourself in a dark,
unpopulated place.
3. Carry a cell phone - I’m going to get one!!
4. Stay calm. Don’t try any tricks. If you are in an accident,you are
vulnerable.
5. Remember that most criminals want easy victims...DON’T LET YOURSELF
BECOME ONE!!!
6. Make sure you find out how to react BEFORE you are in the situation!
These situations are unfortunately real and dangerous. Thinking about it
when it happens is too late!
7. ALWAYS make sure you do not stop until you are CERTAIN that help is
present (i.e., even if you are in a slight accident, head straight for the police
station, and don’t stop until you are there. Car jackers often slightly damage
vehicles by bumping them from the rear to try to get the driver to get out.)
GOOD ENOUGH TO READ? PASS IT ON!
KAREN L CAMPBELL
Attorney at Law
http://www.frugalfolks.com/files/food/MAKE%20YOUR%20OWN%20LIQUEURS.txt
MAKE YOUR OWN LIQUEURS
BASIC EQUIPMENT
1. 1 quart saucepan
2. Measuring cup
3. Measuring spoons
4. 1 quart bottle (32 oz.) or a fifth (25.4 oz.), empty and clean
BASIC INGREDIENTS
1. Spirits: vodka, gin, brandy, Scotch or grain alcohol
2. White granulated sugar
3. Water
4. Fruit extracts. Various brands of extracts are available at
home winemaking stores. The French brand “Noirot” is highly
recommended.
5. Glycerine. Adds body and smoothness.
BASIC METHOD
1. Make your sweet or medium syrup in the following way:
Sweet syrup - 2 cups sugar to 1 cup water
Medium Syrup - 1 cup sugar to 1/2 cup water
Combine the sugar and water in the saucepan and bring it just to
a boil. Cool for few minutes.
2. Pour the required amount of syrup into your clean bottle.
3. Add the extract.
4. Add glycerine and coloring if required.
5. Fill the bottle to the top with the spirits. A liqueur made
in a quart bottle will have a stronger alcoholic taste than one
made in a fifth bottle.
6. Close the bottle and shake. Cool before drinking.
CHERRY BRANDY
1 bottle Noirot (or similar) Cherry Brandy Extract
1 cup medium sugar syrup
Brandy
APRICOT BRANDY
1 bottle Noirot (or similar) Apricot Brandy Extract
Brandy
(no sugar syrup)
CREME DE COCOA
1 bottle Noirot (or similar) Cocoa Extract
2 cups sweet sugar syrup
Vodka or grain alcohol
CREME DE MENTHE
1 bottle Noirot (or similar) Green Mint Extract
2 cups sweet sugar syrup
Vodka or grain alcohol
HOMEMADE COFFEE LIQUEUR
Ingredients:
3 cups granulated sugar
3/4 cup Yuban Instant Coffee
1 Vanilla bean (available at most health food stores if not at
your local supermarket’s spice section) (4) 1 1 Quart 100 proof
vodka.
Dissolve sugar into three and three quarter cups warm water.
Bring syrup mixture to a boil and boil hard for 15 minutes.
While syrup is boiling, dissolve coffee into three quarter cups
of warm water. Add vanilla bean, split lengthwise. When syrup
boiling time is up; remove from stove and allow to cool for five
minutes. Then add coffee-vanilla bean mixture, and allow to cool
to room temperature. When cool, add all the vodka, stir lightly
and pour into clean gallon jug. Allow to stand for two weeks at
room temperature before drinking. Enjoy! But be careful. This
is a potent drink.
http://www.frugalfolks.com/files/food/7mistake.txt
The Seven Major Mistakes in Food Storage
By Vickie Tate
A month or two ago I met a cute little gal who was talking to me about her
newly begun food storage. “You know,” she began, “I’ve dreaded doing my food
storage for years, its seems so blah, but the way national events are going
my husband and I decided we couldn’t put it off anymore. And, do you know,
it really hasn’t been hard. We just bought 20 bags of wheat, my husband
found a place to get 60 pound cans of honey, and now all we have to do is
get a couple of cases of powdered milk. Could you tell me where to get the
milk?” After I suggested several distributors, I asked, “Do you know how to
cook with your wheat?” “Oh,” she laughed, “if we ever need it I’ll learn
how. My kids only like white bread and I don’t have a wheat grinder.” She
had just made every major mistake in storing food (other than not storing
anything at all.) But she’s not alone. Through 14 years of helping people
prepare, I found most people’s storage starts out looking just like hers. So
what’s wrong with this storage plan? There are seven serious problems that
may occur trying to live on these basics:
1.) VARIETY - Most people don’t have enough variety in their storage. 95% of
the people I’ve worked with only stored the 4 basic items we mentioned
earlier: wheat, milk, honey, and salt. Statistics show most of us won’t
survive on such a diet for several reasons. a.) Many people are allergic to
wheat and may not be aware of it until they are eating it meal after meal.
b.) Wheat is too harsh for young children. They can tolerate it in small
amounts but not as their main staple. c.) We get tired of eating the same
foods over and over and many times prefer not to eat than to sample that
particular food again. This is called appetite fatigue. Young children and
older people are particularly susceptible to it. Store less wheat than is
generally suggest and put the difference into a variety of other grains,
particularly ones your family likes to eat. Also store a variety of beans.
This will add variety of color, texture and flavor. Variety is the key to a
successful storage program. It is essential that you store flavorings such
as tomato, bouilion, cheese, and onion.
Also, include a good supply of the spices you like to cook with. These
flavorings and spices allow you to do many creative things with your grains
and beans. Without them you are severely limited. One of the best
suggestions I can give you is buy a good food storage cookbook. Go through
it and see what your family would really eat. Notice the ingredients as you
do it. This will help you more than anything else to know what items to
store.
2.) EXTENDED STAPLES - Few people get beyond storing the four basic items,
but it is extemely important that you do so. Never put all your eggs in one
basket. Store dehydrated and/or freeze-dried foods as well as home canned
and store bought canned goods. Make sure you add cooking oil, shortening,
baking powder, soda, yeast and powdered eggs. You can’t cook even the most
basic receipes without these items. Because of limited space I won’t list
all the items that should be included in a well-balanced storage program.
They are all included in the The New Cookin With Home Storage cookbook, as
well as information on how much to store, and where to purchase it.
3.) VITAMINS - Vitamins are important, especially if you have children,
since children do not store body reserves of nutrients as adults do. A good
quality multi-vitamin and vitamin C are the most vital. Others may be added
as your budget permits.
4.) QUICK AND EASY AND PSYCHOLOGICAL FOODS - Quick and easy foods help you
through times when you are psychologically or physically unable to prepare
your basic storage items. No cook foods such as freeze-dried are wonderful
since they require little preparation. MRE’s (Meals Ready to Eat), such as
many prepardness outlets carry, canned goods, etc. are also very good.
Psycological Foods are the goodies - Jello, pudding, candy, etc. - you
should add to your storage.
These may sound frivolous, but through the years I’ve talked with many
people who have lived entirely on their storage for extended periods of
time. Nearly all of them say these were the most helpful items in their
storage to normalize their situations and make it more bearable. These are
especially important if you have children.
5.) BALANCE - Time and time again I’ve seen families buy all of their wheat,
then buy all of another item, and so on. Don’t do that. It’s important to
keep well-balanced as you build your storage. Buy several items, rather than
a large quantity of one item. If something happens and you have to live on
your present storage, you’’ll fare much better having a one-month supply of
a variety of items than a year’s supply of two to three items.
6.) CONTAINERS - Always store your bulk foods in food storage containers. I
have seen literally tons and tons of food thrown away because they were left
in sacks, where they became highly susceptible to moisture, insects and
rodents. If you are using plastic buckets make sure they are lined with a
food grade plastic liner available from companies that carry packaging
supplies. Never use trash can liners as these are treated with pesticides.
Don’t stack them too high. In an earthquake they may topple, the lids pop
open, or they may crack. A better container is the #10 tin can which most
prepardness companies use when they package their foods.
7.) USE YOUR STORAGE - In all the years I’ve worked with prepardness one of
the biggest problems I’ve seen is people storing food and not knowing what
to do with it. It’s vital that you and your family become familiar with the
things you are storing. You need to know how to prepare these foods. This is
not something you want to learn under stress. Your family needs to be used
to eating these foods. A stressful period is not a good time to totally
change your diet. Get a food storage cookbook and learn to use these foods!
It’s easy to solve these food storage problems once you know what they are.
The lady I talked about at the first of the article left realizing what she
had stored was a good beginning, but not enough. As she said, “It’s better
to find out the mistakes I’ve made now while there’s still time to make
corrections.” This makes a lot more sense.
If you’re one who needs to make some adjustments, that’s okay. Look at these
suggestions and add the things you’re missing. It’s easy to take a basic
storage and add the essentials to make it liveable, but it needs to be done.
As I did the research for my cookbook I wanted to include receipes that gave
help to families no matter what they had stored. As I put the material
together it was fascinating to discover what the pioneers ate is the type of
things we store. But if you have stored only the 4 basics, there’s very,
very little you can do with it. By adding even just a few things it greatly
increases your options, and the prospect ofyour family surviving on it. As I
studied how the pioneers lived and ate, my whole feeling for food changed. I
realized our storage is what most of the world has always lived on. If it’s
put together the right way we’ll be returning to good basic living with a
few goodies thrown in.
Vickie Tate is the author of the popular cookbook, COOKING WITH HOME
STORAGE. She has also lectured for many years on prepardness subjects. For
further information or to order your copy call (801) 835-8283; or write to
her at 302 E 200 N, Manti, UT 84642.
To get rid of fruit flies take a jar or bottle. Put a small piece of fruit in the
bottom and a litte water the make a paper cone with a small opening at
the tip . Place the cone in the jar so that it is a couple inches above the fruit.
Tape the cone inside the jar so it won’t come out. They go in to get the fruit
and can’t figure out how to get out. When you are ready to get rid of them
put a small amount of vinegar or ammonia in the botttle. If you set the flies
free they will come back . It works for us everytime. You do need to move all
other fruit to a fly proof container first.
[The bucket idea could work as an earth box also, with a couple changes...granny]
http://www.frugalfolks.com/files/garden/contain.txt
Container Gardening
My Dear Friends,
Ok, here goes, I will keep these posts general, but my methods can be adapted to many many
flowers and plants.. and forgive me if they are not nicely arranged as I am doing this from my
mental files, as I haven’t really written all of this out before..some things are hard to describe
without pics so if it is unclear let me know and I will try to explain things better.
May I recommend the book Square Foot Gardening, from which I developed most of my
methods.. I am sorry, cannot call the author to mind, but I know www.amazon.com carries it
and you can search for just the title there.
For my ‘buckets’ I love the food containers used by restaurants.. contact a few in your area
and you can probably find some who will give them to you..a local sandwich making company
here also sells them for 50-75 cents each..check facilities that house and feed people regularly,
they often have them, such as elder care homes, county jails, private schools.. the
mom-and-pop type places are best bets as most national chain restaurants and state facilities
recycle the pails nowadays..the buckets hold say 5 gallons or so.. you will want to get a few
together.
My planters are made of two of these stacked one inside the other.
Prepare your planters:
Take two buckets which will fit one inside the other.. you want drainage holes but if you try to
puncture these babies with a nail and hammer, they tend to split..so here is my way..
Fit one bucket into the other, place so that you can see the light through the bucket sides
(most of these are white and you will see the shadow of the inner bucket.. make a mark on
each side of outer bucket some inches from the bottom of the bucket.. but not so high that
the inner and outer bucket are tight against each other.. you want water to be able to run up
the inner bucket to this point and run out at these points, but you want them so that the
planter will hold some water..separate your buckets to make your holes...take a largish nail, a
pair of pliers and a lit candle.. holding the nail in the pliers, heat the nail nice and hot in the
candle flame.. hold the pliers tightly and melt holes into the buckets..for the inner bucket,
melt two holes near opposite corners right in the bottom of the bucket..for the outer one, you
put holes at your marks on the sides, one hole per side.. the importance of these holes will be
explained in later a lesson..now when you fit the inner bucket into the outer one, you have a
planter with drainage and the outer bucket can hold water that drains from the inner one.. fit
your buckets together and you are ready to plant..fill buckets with your preferred soil.. do this
where you want the planter to stay, these babies are heavy once filled..
If you are wishing to plant your goodies to grow inside the house (for winter goodies, for
instance) do not put holes in your outer bucket, put holes ONLY in the inner bucket..
Now you are ready to plant..
Also a note.. I am gonna do the methods for outside containers first, then explain adjustments
for growing your goodies indoors.. and yep, I have roses indoors too these outside directions
are great for planters to be left in your yard (a great fix for icky soil places), on a deck, porch,
patio or balcony..(I had a full garden on balconies of apartments when I stayed in them) once
we get rolling if you want specifics for particular plants, ask and I will try to address them if I
can..
To determine how many plants per planter, here is my method.. use this as general guides and
you should be able to figure it out for virtually any plant..for bushes and vines- 1 per planter-
you can cheat and put two or three of the smaller vines such as cukes and squash, for melons,
gourds and such, stick to one per bucket or you may not get maximum yield
For other plants, try intensive plantings..your planter is equal to about 1 square foot of garden
space..read the planting instructions and divide the spacing distance by 2 (i.e., if it says space 1
foot apart, you will plant 2 in you planter, in each direction, thus you will have four plants total
in the planter)
Note: the Square Foot Gardening book recommends 3 or 4 as a division but I have had much
better luck dividing by 2 because you have to adjust for the fact that the soil and plant are
contained and won’t have access to ground water and minerals
If you are planting a vine or tall plant, get yourself four sticks of some sort.. real sticks, pieces
of 1” x 1’ wood, pieces of 1” plastic plumbing pipe, tomato stakes, something rigid but not much
more than 1” across.. you want 4 of these which will be able to be stuck all the way down into
the bucket and stick up 2 or 3 feet above the bucket..put these in the corners of your planter
(on the inside) BEFORE you fill it with soil, it is MUCH easier than trying to shove them into
the filled bucket (ask me how I know) you may also line your bucket with chicken wire, take
your length of chicken wire (measure around the outside of your planter to find the right length
of chicken wire) and roll it to make a cylinder.. fit into your planter and stretch it to line the
sides extending up out of the planter..chicken wire is great for cut flowers, or any plant which is
kinda tall but won’t want to lean heavily on the wire..you want the frames for plants that you
would stake up in the garden, such as tomatoes..for melons and squash and such, you don’t
want any frames, just plain planters..
Now fill your planter with your choice of soil.. leave 2” or so at the top unfilled..this allows you
to water more easily and neatly..mark your soil’s surface with your finger or guess your
spacing..plant your seed or plant at normal depth by its planting instructions, but dividing the
spacing apart by 2..
Example:
you are planting tomatoes.. you have your planter with your stake frames..you are going to put
4 tomato plants in one planter.. fill you planter with soil... mark the soil into four squares with
your finger.. you will plant a tomato in the center of each of these squares..your babies are in
the ground.. bless them and water them.. water a little at a time until you can see the water
begin to drain into the bottom bucket, then stop..watch your planter to see if it overflows the
outer holes at this point.. if it does you will wish to adjust your watering just a bit, especially if
the water is a problem..this will not be needed in the yard or if it will not drain onto your
downstairs neighbor or some such .. this is why your indoors planters do not have the holes
in the outer bucket.. but it is healthier to have these if you can for reasons discussed later..
For your planters with stick frames..as your plants grow, take some old runned panyhose (yep,
a frugal tip here), and cut the legs off.. tie these to the frames, looping them around each
corner to make a soft ‘cage’ kinda like a hose fence with your frames sticks as the fenceposts..
(egads, hard to describe this one, does it make sense? much easier to understand if you are
actually looking at the darned thing).. keep your plants inside this ‘cage’..
After this it is time to start experimenting.. I am planning to do some posts on some of the
individual plants I have grown in my planters with hints from my experiences with them.. the
next lesson will be on how to adjust this stuff for an indoor garden..
you have your planters and you have your babies all nice and cozy in the soil.. all you gotta do
now is stand by and watch the magic, plus a little maintenance and care..
Planters and pots of any kind have a tendency to hold minerals and sediments in the soil from
waterings and fertilizing/feeding.. these build up and can affect your plants.. here is where
those weird holes on the outside of your planters come in.. once or twice a season, it is a good
idea to flush your planter.. this is not as critical if your planters are outside exposed to rain
(assuming you’ve had any ).. but if they are under a porch or a covered balcony, they need
it..
So to flush your planter, you will water heavily.. simply fill your planter with fresh _warm_
water.. fill the 2” or so you left at the top of the planter from the soilline.. let it sink in and
repeat, watch for the planter to drain as the water fills the outer bucket to the level of the
holes.. keep repeating this until you have flushed quite a bit of water out of these holes.. I use
some five gallons per planter for a good rinse..if you can tilt your planter (if it isn’t too heavy),
this will accelerate the draining process..allow extra time after this before the next watering
All other times, water normally..if you need to feed your plants, I suggest you wait at least two
weeks after planting, feed with a good commercial water-soluble product such as Miracle-Gro
or Peter’s Plant Food (my personal favorite).. I mix this at 1/4 directed strength..plants in
containers can easily be overfed..
Another hint: if you plants get kinds sickly looking, and you are SURE that you are not
overwatering them, try my coffee trick.. take cold coffee and mix with water, don’t mix it too
strong, takes just a bit of coffee.. use this to water you plants.. don’t do this too often, because it
can ‘burn them out’.. the coffee will stimulate the plants and you will see more vitality in many
cases.. I give all my plants coffee once a month at regular watering times..
Would you like a hothouse to enhance growth? easy as pie.. take a clear (preferably) or white
garbage bag, put over your planter stakes..tie around the planter to hold it.. poke some nice
holes or cut some slits with a knife to let in air.. and voila!! a disposable greenhouse!!
Your Indoor Garden
To grow your garden indoors is not as hard as you might think..your planters will do well
inside with some considerations..be sure to use only planters without holes in the outer
buckets, unless you don’t mind water draining on the floor (and don’t laugh, my mom’s indoor
garden is in a basement near a drain, so she uses the ‘outdoor’ ones)
Plant as you would for outside, use the same spacing, etc... watering and feeding will be the
same.. your big problem indoors is most probably light.. but don’t dispair, with the growlight
bulbs which you can now find at most department stores (in the garden section, not the lights
), you can have sunlight-spectrum light almost anywhere, even in a closet..the bulbs come in
many sizes, but the most convenient, imho, are the ones shaped like regular light bulbs.. these
will work in any standard fixture.. I have one in every room, one of my multi-light fixture in my
kitchen, one in a chosen lamp in every other room..’grow’ light is not harmful to the eyes, but I
find it better to have some regular lights, not just grow lights to ‘live’ by..you do not have to turn
out all the other lights, just run the grow lights right along with regular lighting..
If you are growing in a place where only one light needs to be, say a closet, use just
growlights..no fixtures? get yourself a yardsale floor light, great ones are those poles that hold 3
or 4 lights, put your growlights into it, and move your lights to the plants.. My mom has two of
these which she has on opposite sides of a small area of her basement, with her planters
between them.. she turns them on for 6 hours a day, and has a great garden down there... you
can kinda adjust for ‘sunlight’ time with these..plants that need full sun (in their directions)
should get 6-8 hours of light a day.. and don’t dispair, these bulbs are not expensive to run,
even for these kind of hours..growlights give your plants wavelengths of light that they don’t get
in regular electric bulbs... they are well worth the cost to buy and run..they last a long time
(most of mine are longer- lived than my regular bulbs)
This will be the last one friends.. we’ll wrap up some loose ends.. I will be posting some stuff
specific to certain plants but with these 5 lessons, you should be able to go it alone.. and don’t
forget to experiment.. I always make at least one planter for trial runs of new ideas.. something
I’ve not grown before in planters, or a new trick.. you’ll be amazed at what you might stumble
upon..
It is not necessary to pay the extra money for the bush type plants specially bred for container
gardening.. you can use regular varieties, the cheap seeds..just prune your plants as they get too
rangy or big.. watch the fruiting of your plant, most of our garden veggies bear fruit on the plant
other than at the very tops.. tomatoes, beans, vines and such bear fruit all along the plant
stems.. when they get too big or cumbersome, just trim them up.. in most instances, you want
to trim just above a set of leaves.. many plants will then grow from there, adding thick
bushiness to your plant..
Watch those vines.. you don’t wish them to hang sharply over the edge of your planter to the
ground/ floor..they can get damaged and kill the whole runner..this is a factor with your vine
plants especially, such as watermelon, beans, melons, squash..so try to place your planter near
something which is around the height of your planter or higher.... you can use your imagination
here, what you wish to achieve is a ‘table’ for your runners to sit on..I place my planters for my
watermelon, squash and things by my front and back porches.. then I lead the vines right along
the porch, allowing the melons to ripen right on the porch..
Hint: place cheap trash bags or old window plastic under the vines, topped with some old
newspaper.. as the vine fills out, this will be hidden, and it will keep the plant from discoloring
some porch materials..In my bedroom garden for winter, I have a cheap yard sale kid’s room
bookcase I run my watermelon vine onto, then the melons ripen “on the shelves”..at my front
porch, six planters of beans run up the porch columns.. the planters are placed on the ground
right in front of the posts.. people always compliment me on my front entrance.. I have
intermixed flowers with my veggies to add color.. veggies have the greatest leaves.. pick your
planter spots with an eye to using them to enhance sparse places in your landscaping..things
like clothesline poles are great for vining plants..I grow my loofas on my clotheslines, and one
section I fill the lines with the vines also so I can get more fruit..
And in case you’re new to vertical planting.. some fruits are too heavy to allow them to just
hang from the plant and stem.. so make little hammocks for them.. you can use lots of things
for these.. my favorites are old panyhose (a great garden tie up material, strong, springy and
soft).. tie the legs near the panty and cut the legs off (use them to tie up plant stems).. you now
have a nice hammock for your fruit..simply watch your fruit developing, when you see the
strain start on the stem, put that baby melon into the panty, and tie up to your stake at a place
where the stress will be relieved..I also use the net bags from grocery veggies..you want a
material which won’t hold water, is strong, and will let in air..
And a last note, don’t be afraid to crowd your planters.. plant little flowers around a bush or
vine..plant garlic everywhere!! it helps keep bugs away, and a garlic clove can be stuck just
about anywhere there’s a little room..plant a low vegetable around a vine.. if you have say, 4
beans in a planter, and you are going to be running the vines onto your porch..plant some
radishes around the beans, or plant one lettuce plant smack in the center of the planter
between the beans.. the short plant won’t get in the way of the tall one, and the tall one won’t
need that ground space.. experiment.. you’ll also learn that planting certain plants together will
help control pests on both.. this is called companion planting..
And don’t forget-— mix your flowers and veggies, there is no reason why you should separate
them, and they often help one another.. lots of pests that love to eat your veggies won’t go near
certain flowers..most bad bugs really hate marigolds..the best ones are the cheap seed you see
everywhere in the spring, the marigolds that actually do stink..the little orange ones.. great bug
repellents..
And so dear friends, thanks for hanging in there through this..you are now graduates of
Stardust’s Container Gardening 101..go forth and cultivate!!!!...
I will open the podium to questions.. and post some specific-plants info as I think of it or it is
asked about..
Bright Blessings,
Stardust
—
stardust@ipass.net
Bubbles & Bars
Handcrafted Bath Creations
North Carolina
Taken from Mary Ellen’s Best of Helpful Hints.
Aphids & Spiders: Wash total plant off with mild detergent and water.
Black Flies: Combine 1/2 tablespoon of plain ammonia and 1 quart of water.
Water soil.
White Flies: Mix 2 tablespoons of dishwashing liquid in 1 gallon of water
and spray on leaves.
Scales: For instant removal of slugs, place plant in pot of water.
Pest of all kinds: Plant a garlic clove along with your plant. As it grows,
simply cut it down so it will not disturb the appearance of the plant.
Garlic will not harm the plant, but the bugs hate it.
http://www.frugalfolks.com/files/garden/beets.txt
[snipped]
Beets prefer cool soil and air temperature, but will put up with a wide
range of growing conditions. They like a well drained soil, a neutral
pH, and a steady supply of water. Most root crops like a loose loamy
soil, so dig in lots of compost and peat moss. If you have problems with
root crops like beets, potatoes and carrots, you may need to add some
trace minerals like potassium, magnesium, rock phosphate, iron and zinc.
Sow your seeds out in the garden as soon as the ground has warmed to at
least 40 degrees. I plant mine the same time as my peas. Soak the seeds
for an hour or so to increase germination. Those funny little beet
seeds that look like Grape Nuts, are really a cluster of several seeds
clumped together. So you may get 3-4 sprouts per seed cluster. Thinning
is vital. Plant them 1/2
inch deep and thin to 3 inches apart. Mulch them to keep the soil
temperature even , and give them about 1 inch of water per week. The key
to successful beet harvest is rapid growth caused by a good supply of
water. Rapidly grown beets will taste better than those that have been
allowed to linger for want of water during the growing period. If you
have lots of organic material in the soil you don’t need to fertilize
them. Beets seem to taste the best when they’re about silver dollar
size.
Oh by the way, beets make a wonderful natural dye (some thing to keep in
mind if you have children who like to color eggs for Easter). Just save
the water you have cooked the beets in.
************************************************************************
A good source of leafy green material for your compost is the local
florist. You might ask them to toss their leftovers in a box for you to
pick up once a week.
************************************************************************
Most catalogs and seed packets indicate the “days to maturity”. To be
able to use this essential number , you need to determine whether the
number of days indicated refers to seed that you will sow directly in
the garden like lettuce, spinach, corn, etc.. Rather than a the number
of days it will take a six week old transplant to mature. Crops like
peppers, and tomatoes are generally started inside and then transplanted
out to the garden. These vegetables will take a week or so to sprout,
and then another six weeks to grow and then you start counting that
magical “days to maturity”. But whether you start your seeds indoors
or out, the “days to maturity” thing is generally a loose guideline. Your
mileage may vary depending on many factors unique to your region.
************************************************************************
Seed saving...
Its probably pretty obvious that on some plants like lettuce, beans,
peas and beets you can just collect the seeds and keep them dry for next
years planting. But if the seeds are wet to begin with, how do you store
them? Normally the seeds from fleshy fruits would fall to the ground
and rot slowly. Some of the seeds would settle into the ground and
sprout next
year. So you have to take some extra steps to prevent the spoilage.
Peppers seeds can be spread out on a plate and allowed to dry. Don’t use
paper towels or the seeds will glue themselves down. Tomatoes have that
jelly stuff that has to be fermented away. Just put the seeds in some
water and let it rot for 3 days. It’s gonna get stinky so put it away
somewhere. When it gets moldy on top add some more water and stir. The
seeds will settle to the bottom and you can pour the mold off. Continue
to rinse until you have nice
clean seeds. Strain and dry the seeds on a plate. I have to stir the
seeds while they are drying so they get evenly dry and don’t stick
together. Peppers, watermelon, winter squash,and tomato seeds should be
harvested when ripe. But cucumbers, eggplant and summer squash needs to
ripen past the eating stage.
******************************************************************
Put crumbled up egg shells around tender plants to stop slugs, the
shells will cut their tender bodies and they’ll die.
Use toothpaste to remove slug slime.
****************************************************************
Before sunflower seeds can be harvested the flower heads must be allowed
to mature completely on the plant. When the stem near the base of the
flower turns yellow, cut the flower head and hang in a well-ventilated
area. Seeds will separate easily when the flowers are sufficiently dry.
I have trouble with birds raiding my flower heads before I can harvest
them. So I tie netting around them, use the kind you get from fabric
stores. It’s very inexpensive but allows good air circulation.
************************************************************************
Daylillies are edible! Buds and blossoms can be sautéed in butter and
eaten alone or added to zucchini and tomato dishes. They can be dried
for later use in soups and stews.
*******
Take 3-4 ounces of chopped garlic and soak in 2 tablespoons of mineral
oil for one day. Add a pint of water in which 1 teaspoon of fish
emulsion has been dissolved. Stir well and strain the liquid. Store in a
glass jar. Dilute this 1 part garlic/fish stuff to 20 parts of water and
spray on your worst buggies. I have also heard it will help against
rabbits.
**********
Plant borage in with tomatoes to deter tomato worms. If interplanted
with squash it will attract honeybees to improve pollination.
http://www.frugalfolks.com/garden.html
*
http://www.csrees.usda.gov/Extension/index.html Cooperative Extension
System Offices. This section of our Web site will help you find your nearest
Cooperative Extension office. The Cooperative Extension System is a
nationwide, non-credit educational network. Each U.S. state and territory
has a state office at its land-grant university and a network of local or
regional offices. These offices are staffed by one or more experts who
provide useful, practical, and research-based information to agricultural
producers, small business owners, youth, consumers, and others in rural
areas and communities of all sizes.
*
The latest information on Square Foot Gardening
*
The Bean Bible
*
http://www.ams.usda.gov/farmersmarkets/map.htm Find a Farmers’
Market near you.
*
Where you can find a pick-your-own farm near you!
http://www.pickyourown.org/strawberries.htm
Root Cellars
*
http://dansgardenshop.com/gardenshop/
*
http://waltonfeed.com/old/cellar3.html
*
http://waltonfeed.com/old/cellar2.html
Gardening Zones
*
http://www.vg.com/vg/timelife/zonefinders/locatezone.html
Growing
*
http://www.gourmetgarlicgardens.com/artichokes.htm#anchor1569825
*
http://www.backyardgardener.com/tm.html Seed germination database
Excellent source
Hydroponics
*
Build your own hydroponics planter
http://www.microfarm.com/free/?A5W_Sess_7920bcac091549f38ff11dce6d6b8828
*
http://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/1998/11/981130045828.htm
*
Rain water Collection
Herbs
*
http://www.botanical.com/botanical/mgmh/mgmh.html
*
Another excellent farm and gardening site
http://www.backyardgardener.com/tm.html
Seed Germination Database
The following data is provided by Thompson & Morgan Successful Seed Raising Guide. This guide is out of print.
A seed is an embryo plant and contains within itself virtually all the materials and energy to start off a new plant. To get the most from one’s seeds it is needful to understand a little about their needs, so that just the right conditions can be given for successful growth.
One of the most usual causes of failures with seed is sowing too deeply; a seed has only enough food within itself for a limited period of growth and a tiny seed sown too deeply soon expends that energy and dies before it can reach the surface. Our seed guide therefore states the optimum depth at which each type of seed should be sown. Another common cause is watering. Seeds need a supply of moisture and air in the soil around them. Keeping the soil too wet drives out the air and the seed quickly rots, whereas insufficient water causes the tender seedling to dry out and die. We can thoroughly recommend the Polythene bag method (No. 11) which helps to overcome this problem. Watering of containers of very small seeds should always be done from below, allowing the water to creep up until the surface glistens.
Most seeds will of course only germinate between certain temperatures. Too low and the seed takes up water but cannot germinate and therefore rots, too high and growth within the seed is prevented. Fortunately most seeds are tolerant of a wide range of temperatures but it is wise to try to maintain a steady, not fluctuating temperature, at around the figure we have recommended in our guide. Once several of the seeds start to germinate the temperatures can be reduced by about 5 degrees F and ventilation and light should be given.
Some perennials and tree and shrub seeds can be very slow and erratic in germination. This may sometimes be due to seed dormancy, a condition which prevents the seed from germinating even when it is perfectly healthy and all conditions for germination are at optimum. The natural method is to sow the seeds out of doors somewhere where they will be sheltered from extremes of climate, predators, etc. and leave them until they emerge, which may be two or three seasons later. Dormancy, however, can be broken artificially and our section Nos. 12-16 deals with this.
HINTS ON SEED RAISING
1. Strelitzia and similar
Do not chip or mark the seedcoat at all but merely remove the orange tuft and soak for up to 2 hours, or even overnight. Sow the seeds in moist sand, pressing them into the sand until only a small part of the black seed is visible and grow in a temperature of 75 degrees F in the dark and ensure that the sand always remains moist. From 7 days onwards inspect the container once a week and as soon as any bulges, roots or shoots are seen remove the germinated seed and pot up in a compost of half peat and half sand. We find that Strelitzias often produce a root without a shoot and we have also found that the young shoots and roots are susceptible to fungal attack. Therefore as soon as possible pot up and provide light and fresh air. Germination can start within 7 days and carry on for 6 months or more.
WORLD Largest Plant Encyclopedia
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Seed Growing Equipment
2. Palms; Banana; Coffee; Mini-Orange; Tea; Cycads and similar
All these items can take several months to germinate and are very erratic in germination. Soak for at least 2 hours in warm water before sowing. (After soaking the parchment shell on the Coffee seeds should be removed with the fingernail). Sow in Levington or Arthur Bowers (compost and place in the dark in a temperature of 75 degrees F, keeping the compost moist at all times, but not wet. Inspect regularly and occasionally dig around in the compost with a penknife. We normally sow our seeds just below the surface of the soil and we have found that sometimes they make a very vigorous root without producing a shoot at all. If you find a seed with a root then it should be excavated and potted up into a 3-4’’ pot immediately when it will produce a shoot. Cycads prefer to be potted up into a compost of half sand and half peat. The Tea requires the above treatment but in a lower temperature of 60-65 degree F.
3. Clivia and similar
Sow these seeds immediately on receipt in Levington or a peat based compost, covering with a 1/2 “ compost. Water and place in the dark in a temperature of 65-70’F. Germination should occur within 3 weeks.
4. Ferns (Garden and Indoor)
The fern spore needs a fine film of moisture over which to swim in order to complete the process of reproduction, therefore a good peat compost, such as Levington, ought to be used pressed down very firmly and which is a lot more moist than one would normally have it in order to provide the moisture film. The spore (seed) should be sprinkled close together on the surface of the soil and not covered and the container should be covered with a piece of glass and placed in diffused light, but not darkness. It is essential to ensure that the compost remains moist at all times. Germination which commences with the appearance of a film of green jelly over the soil can take anything from 1 -5 months.
You may wish to try germinating the fern spore on blotting paper which is placed in a saucer and kept moist at all times. A transparent cover is inverted over the saucer and the whole lot placed in a well lit but not sunny position. You can actually see the fern spores developing and when you can see small plantlettes appearing along the jelly the blotting paper should be lifted and placed on the surface of a container of Levington compost and watered well. It should then be covered with a transparent cover which can remain there until the plants are quite large.
5. Bromeliads; Cineraria;
Calceolaria; Insect Eaters (Drosera, Nepenthes, Sarracenias);
Living Stones; Meconopsis;
Rubber Plants; Saintpaulia; Streptocarpus;
Tibouchina; Xmas Cactus;
Begonia and similar
These seeds should be sown on the surface of the compost and not covered. The compost should be quite moist and we would recommend that you cover the seed container with a piece of glass or clear plastic and leave in a temperature of approximately 65 degrees F in a position which receives diffused light. Once some of the seeds have germinated air should be admitted gradually otherwise the seedlings may damp off.
Alternatively the seeds can be sown on to moist blotting paper or kitchen towel placed in a saucer. Cover with a transparent cover and place on a windowsill which receives plenty of light, but not direct sunlight. Keep the blotting paper wet at all times and when the tiny seedlings are large enough to handle prick out into small pots. If the INSECT EATERS are sown using the first method described the compost requires to be both moist yet free draining. Use only pure peat with no fertilizers added to which sphagnum moss should be added if available.
6. Alstroemeria; Bonsai;
Clematis; Hardy Cyclamen;
Eucalyptus; Flower Lawn;
Helleborus; Hosta; Primula;
Iris and similar.
Sowing OCTOBER-FEBRUARY. Sow the seeds in John Innes seed compost, covering them with a thin layer of compost. After watering place the seed container outside against a North wall or in a cold frame, making sure they are protected against mice, and leave them there until the spring. The compost should be kept moist but not wet at all times, and if the seed containers are out in the open then some shelter has to be given against excessive rain. In the spring bring the seed containers into the greenhouse, or indoors on to a well lit but not sunny windowsill and keep the compost moist. This should trigger off germination. If the seeds do not germinate in the spring keep them in cool moist conditions throughout the summer. As each seed germinates we would recommend that you transplant it almost immediately into its own pot.
Sowing MARCH-SEPTEMBER. Sow in John Innes seed compost, or something similar, and place each container in a polythene bag and put into the refrigerator (not the freezer compartment) for 2-3 weeks. After this time place the containers outside in a cold frame or plunge them up to the rims in a shady part of the garden border and cover with glass or clear plastic. Some of the seeds may germinate during the spring and summer and these should be transplanted when large enough to handle. The remainder of the seeds may lay dormant until next spring.
Germination of some items, particularly Alstroemeria, Clematis, Hardy Cyclamen and Christmas Rose (Helleborus) may take take 18 months or more.
An alternative method for growing PRIMULAS is to sow in a peat based compost which has already been moistened and do not cover the seed. Cover the container with a piece of glass or plastic and grow in the dark in a steady temperature of 60F. This is quite adequate and over 65’F germination will be inhibited. When the seeds start to germinate sprinkle a thin layer of fine compost over them and when the seed leaves come through this, move the box to a well lit place with a temperature of 55’F. At no time should the seed box be in full sun.
Hardy Cyclamen have been found to germinate best in total darkness at around 55-60’F. We have had good results with the following method. Place the seeds between two pieces of damp filter paper, Kleenex tissue, etc., then put into a polythene bag and place this into an opaque container in order to exclude all light. Inspect the seeds after a month and remove and prick out as the seedlings appear, returning the ungerminated seeds to total darkness.
7. Freesia
Soak the seeds for 24 hours and sow in Levington compost, or something similar, and place in a temperature of 50-60’F. Germination can sometimes be slow.
8. Nertera Granadensis (Bead Plant)
We recently found that this subject requires a well drained compost which is completely free from fertilizer (e.g. moss peat and sand in equal parts). Sow by barely covering the seed and place a sheet of glass over the container, and leave in a temperature of 65-75’F. Turn the glass daily as excessive condensation can kill the young seedlings. On germination the seedlings look very thin and spindly and the glass should be removed almost immediately and the seed container moved to a well lit but not sunny position. Prick out as soon as possible into a compost of 50% pure peat and 50% sand. Keep moist and shaded until established.
9. Cactus and similar
Make very shallow furrows in compost with a plant label and sow in these. No seed should be completely buried. Water from beneath and cover with glass and brown paper or black Polythene. Place in a dark position in a temperature of 70-75F and keep moist. On germinating move to a light but not sunny windowsill, give plenty of ventilation and water from beneath. Pot up when they begin to overcrowd. During the first winter only keep warm and do not allow to get too dry. If it is not possible to grow warm then keep them drier. Subsequent years keep relatively dry through the winter. Can be planted outside, plunged to the rim, all summer if required.
10. Lilies
Successful germination of seeds of some lilies requires a period of warmth followed by one of cold.
Method 1. Put seeds in a screw top jar in moist (not wet) peat and keep at 70-75F for 3-4 months. Inspect regularly, any normal seedlings (that is having root and seedling leaves) should be pricked out as they germinate. Any seeds which produce roots but not seedling leaves, sow in a pan and keep at 32-40’F for 3 months. Seed leaves and normal growth will follow.
Method 2. Sow in a pan in summer (warm spell); put in a frame (or outside covered by a piece of glass) for the winter. Seeds will germinate in spring. Soil Humus rich (peat or leafmould) lime free and very free drainage (use 1/3 grit). Never overwater, keep bulbs almost dry from November to March.
11. For more delicate seeds
A method which has proved useful for not only small delicate seeds but for a wide range of types is the Polythene bag method.
The seeds should be sown on the surface of the moist compost, covered to their recommended depth if necessary and the container is then placed inside a Polythene bag after which the end is sealed with an elastic band. The bag should ‘fog-up’ with condensation within 24 hours and if this does not occur place the container almost up to its rim in moisture until the soil surface glistens, then replace in the bag and reseal. The bag is not removed and normally no more watering is required until the seeds germinate. However, it is wise, if left for a long period to check the compost occasionally.
The seed container, bag etc. should be placed in a well lit place with a steady temperature. As soon as a fair number of the seedlings emerge remove the polythene bag, lower the temperature a few degrees and provide plenty of light, but not bright sunshine, to ensure that sturdy seedlings develop. It is also helpful to spray the seedlings occasionally for the first 14 days.
SPECIAL TREATMENT
12. Hard Seeds-Chipping
Some seeds, e.g. Sweet peas, lpomaea etc., have hard seed coats which prevent moisture being absorbed by the seed. All that is needed is for the outer surface to be scratched or abraided to allow water to pass through. This can be achieved by chipping the seed with a sharp knife at a part furthest away from the ‘eye’, by rubbing lightly with sandpaper or with very small seed pricking carefully once with a needle etc.
Some of our geranium seeds have already been treated in this way when you receive them.
13. Hard Seeds-Soaking
Soaking is beneficial in two ways; it can soften a hard seed coat and also leach out any chemical inhibitors in the seed which may prevent germination. 24 hours in water which starts off hand hot is usually sufficient. If soaking for longer the water should be changed daily. Seeds of some species (e.g. Cytisus, Caragana, Clianthus) swell up when they are soaked. If some seeds of a batch do swell within 24 hours they should be planted immediately and the remainder pricked gently with a pin and returned to soak. As each seed swells it should be removed and sown before it has time to dry out.
14. Stratification (cold treatment)
Some seeds need a period of moisture and cold after harvest before they will germinate-usually this is necessary to either allow the embryo to mature or to break dormancy. This period can be artificially stimulated by placing the moistened seed in a refrigerator for a certain period of time (usually 3- 5 weeks at around 41 F). With tiny seeds it is best to sow them on moistened compost, seal the container in a Polythene bag and leave everything in the refrigerator for the recommended period. However, larger seeds can be mixed with 2-3 times their volume of damp peat, placed direct into a Polythene bag which is sealed and placed in the refrigerator. Look at seeds from time to time. The seeds must be moist whilst being pre-chilled, but it doesn’t usually benefit them to be actually in water or at temperatures below freezing.
Light also seems to be beneficial after prechilling and so pre-chilled seeds should have only the lightest covering of compost over them, if any is required, and the seed trays etc. should be in the light and not covered with brown paper etc.
15. Double Dormancy
Some seeds have a combination of dormancy’s and each one has to be broken in turn and in the right sequence before germination can take place; for example, some Lilies, Tree paeonies, Taxus need a three month warm period (68-86’F) during which the root develops and then a three month chilling to break dormancy of the shoots, before the seedling actually emerges. Trillium needs a three month chill followed by three months of warmth and then a further three month chill before it will germinate.
16. Outdoor treatment
The above mentioned methods (12-15) accelerate the germination process and help to prevent seeds being lost due to external hazards (mice, disease, etc.) but outdoor sowing is just as effective albeit longer. The seeds are best sown in containers of free draining compost and placed in a cold frame or plunged up to their rim outdoors in a shaded part of the garden, preferably on the north side of the house avoiding cold drying winds and strong sun.
Recent tests show that much of the beneficial effects of pre-chilling are lost if the seed is not exposed to light immediately afterwards. We therefore recommend sowing the seeds very close to the surface of the soil and covering the container with a sheet of glass. An alternative method especially with larger seeds, is to sow the seed in a well prepared ground, cover with a jam jar and press this down well into the soil so that the seeds are enclosed and safe from predators, drying out etc.
We would also recommend you consult No. 6 which contains further practical suggestions regarding the special treatment of seeds.
Germination days.
The usual time period in which a particular variety will germinate given optimum conditions.
Light/Dark
Seeds needing light should have no newspaper, brown paper etc. placed over the trays. Seeds needing dark for germination should be placed in total darkness.
Slow and irregular germination
This is the column with the “X”. Not all seeds will show at once
-prick out each seedling as it becomes large enough to handle and don’t discard the container until well over the time suggested.
Temperature
A steady temperature between these limits is recommended-fluctuating temperatures can damage a seedling in its critical early stages.
Compost
Most reputable seed composts will be quite adequate and we have indicated where a loam based type such as John Innes or a peat based type such as Levington would be slightly more suitable. On no account should potting composts, which have additional fertilizers, be used.
Sowing Depth
If in doubt sow shallowly, but always ensure that the compost surface is damp.
J.C. =Just cover the seed with compost or sharp sand. S=Sow on the surface and do not cover at all with compost.
Sowing in situ
Where recommended under the heading of comments, these seeds can be sown out of doors. Moist soil worked down to a fine tilth is essential. For hardy annuals and perennials sowing can be carried out from late winter onwards as soon as the ground is workable and has warmed up and half hardy annuals after all danger of frost is passed.
SUGGESTED SOWING TIMES
Many seeds, particularly in the house plant range, can be sown indoors at almost any season of the year. Others, for example bedding plants, have a much limited sowing season because the plants need to be at just the right stage when planted out. We therefore offer the following general guide to sowing times. Your actual time of sowing will depend a great deal upon the steady temperature you can maintain in your greenhousese/propagator, soil, local conditions etc.
HA Hardy Annual Late winter/early spring.
HHA Half Hardy Annual Early/ late spring. Normally 4-8 weeks before planting outside.
GBb Greenhouse Bulb
GP Greenhouse Perennial Anytime of year.
GSh Greenhouse Shrub
GT Greenhouse Tree
HP Hardy Perennial Late winter/late spring and late summer/autumn.
HHP Half Hardy Perennial Late winter/spring.
HBb Hardy Bulb Late winter/late spring and late summer/autumn
HHBB Half Hardy Bulb Late winter/spring.
HB Hardy Biennal Late spring/early summer.
HHB Half Hardy Biennal Summer/autumn.
HSh Hardy Shrub Winter/late spring and late summer/autumn.
HHSh Half Hardy Shrub Any time of year.
HT Hardy Tree Winter/late spring and late summer/autumn.
HHT Half Hardy Tree Any time of year.
Any plant which is to be planted outside (HA, HHA, HHP, HHSh.) should be well hardened off beforehand. This is best achieved by placing the plants outside in a cold frame for around a week before planting out. The frame can be left uncovered during mild weather but always replaced at night. Alternatively if no frame is available move the boxes outside to a sheltered spot during the day and bring indoors at night.
Trees and shrubs are farther down the list.
The “ˆ” stands for slow and irregular germination.
Variety Type Germ Days G Temp Media Sow Depth Comments
Abarema GP 7-56 70-75 Peaty 1/4” Scarify seed by rubbing between 2 pieces of emery paper.
Abelmoschus HHA 15-30 75-80 Well drained 1/16” Soak 1 hour in lukewarm water before sowing.
Abutilon HHSh 21-30 ˆ 70-80 Peaty JC
Acacia HHSh 21 70-80 Well drained 1/16” See No. 13. Soak in warm water for 4 hours.
Acaena HP 30-100 ˆ 50-60 Well drained 1/4”
Acanthus HP 21-25 50-55 Peaty 1/4”.
Achillea HP 30-100 L ˆ 60-65 Well drained S Reduce soil temperature at night.
Achimenes GP 21-30 65-75 Well drained S See No. 5. Seed is very small.
Acnistus HHSh 21-42 55-65 Well drained 1/16”
Aconitum HP 5-270 L ˆ 55-60 Well drained 1/16” See Nos. 6 & 14. Place in a fridge for 6 weeks.
Actaea HP 30-365 ˆ 55-60 Well drained JC See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 6-8 weeks).
Actinidia HP 60-90 ˆ 50 Well drained 1/8” Male & Female flowers are borne on separate plants.
Adansonia GSh 21-365 ˆ 70-80 Peaty 1/16” Soak in hand hot water. See No. 13.
Adenanthera GSh 30-90 70-75 Well drained JC See No. 13. Soak in hot water.
Adenium GSh 7-14 L 65-70 Very well draineJC
Adenophora HP 30-90 ˆ 50-55 Well drained S
Adonis HA, HP 30-120 ˆ 60-65 Well drained JC
Aechmia GP 7-90 L ˆ 60-70 Peaty S See No. 5.
Aethionema HP 30-90 ˆ 60-65 Well drained JC
Agapanthus HHP 30-90 60-65 Well drained JC
Agastache HP 30-90 55 Well drained 1/16 “
Agave GP 30-90 L ˆ 55 Well drained S
Ageratum HHA 10-14 L 70-75 Well drained S
Agrostemma HA 14-21 55-65 Well drained 1/8” Can be sown in situ
Alchemilla HP 21-30 60-70 Well drained 1/8”
Allium HBb 30-365 L 50 Well drained JC See No. 14. Place in fridge for 4 weeks.
Aloe GP 30-180 L 70 Well drained S
Alonsoa HHA 14-21 60 Well drained 1/16” Cover seed with silver sand.
Alpina GP 30-90 70-75 Peaty 1/8”
Alstroemeria HP 30-365 ˆ 65-70 Peaty 1/16” See No. 13. Soak in warm water. Sow singly in pcrts.
Alyssum HA 7-14 L 55-75 Peaty S Annuals can be sown in situ.
Amaranthus HHA 10-15 70-75 Peaty 1/16”
Amaryllis HHBb 21-70 ˆ 65-75 Peaty 1/16” Do not dry off in the first year after sowing.
Ammi HHA 7-21 55-65 Well drained 1/16”
Ammobium HHA 10-15 60 Well drained 1/16”
Anacampseros GP 30-90 L ˆ 65-70 Well drained S
Anacyclus HP 30-60 L ˆ 55-60 Well drained JC See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks.)
Anagallis HHA 30-42 50-65 Well drained 1/8”
Anaphalis HP 30-60 55-65 Well drained JC
Anchusa HA, HP 7-30 70 Well drained 1/16” Can be sown in situ
Androsace HP 30-365 ˆ 50-55 Well drained S See No. 16.
Anemone HP 28-180 ˆ 65-70 Well drained JC See No. 6.
Anemonopsis HP 30-18O L ˆ 55-60 Well drained S Sow in lime free compost.
Anigozanthus GP 30-90 L 60-65 Peaty S See No. 5.
Anoda HHA 14-21 55-65 Well drained 1/4” Can be sown in situ
Antennaria HP 30-69 55-60 Well drained JC Just cover with silver sand.
Anthemis HP 0-14 70 Well drained S
Anthericum HP 30-90 50 Well drained 1/8”
Anthriscus HP, HB 14-21 55-65 Well drained 1/4” Usually sown in situ
Anthyllis HP 30-60 50 Well drained 1/8” See No. 13. Soak in warm water overnight.
Antigonon GP 21-30 65-70 Well drained JC
Antirrhinum HHA 10-21 L 65-75 Peaty S
Aphyllanthes HP 21-56 ˆ 55-60 Peaty JC
Aquilegia HP 30-90 L ˆ 65-75 Well drained S See No. 6 or 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks). Keep temperature below 70°F
Arabis HP 20-25 L 70 Well drained S Can be sown in situ.
Arachis GA 7-21 70-75 Peaty 1/4” Sow, then place inside a polythene bag until germination.
Araujia HHSh 90-180 ˆ 75-80 Well drained JC
Arctotis HHA 21-35 60-70 Well drained JC
Ardisia GSh 90-180 75 Well drained 1/4”
Arenaria HP 15-30 55-65 Well drained S
Argemone HA 14 65-70 Well drained 1/8” Can be sown in situ
Arisaema HP 30-180 L ˆ 55-60 Well drained JC
Aristea GP 30-90 ˆ 55-60 Well drained JC
Aristolochia GSh 30-90 ˆ 75-85 Peaty S See No. 13. (Soak 48 hours in hand hot water).
Armeria HP 14-21 60-70 Well drained JC See No. 13. (6-8 hours in hand hot water).
Arnica HP 25-30 55 Well drained JC Likes an acid sandy soil.
Artemisia HP 30-60 L 60-65 Well drained S
Arum HP 30-l80 ˆ 55-65 Peaty 1/8”
Aruncus HP 30-90 55-65 Peaty S
Asarina HHP 14-21 L 65-70 Well drained S
Asarum HP 7-30 60-65 Well drained 1/16” Sow as soon as possible.
Asclepias GP, HP 30-90 ˆ 50-75 Peaty 1/16” See No. 14. (Pre-chil for 3-4 weeks).
Asparagus GP 21-30 60-70 Peaty 1/4” Soak then chip. See Nos. 12 and 13.
Asperula HA 30-42 L 50 Well drained 1/16” Can be sown in situ or No. 14. (Pre-chill 2 weeks).
Asphodeline HP 30 ˆ 70-75 Well drained JC
Aster HHA 10-14 65-70 Well drained 1/16” Pre-chill perennial asters, see No. 14. (Pre-chill 2 weeks).
Astilbe HP 40-80 65 Peaty S See No. 5.
Astrantia HP 30-180 L ˆ 55-65 Well drained S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4 weeks).
Atriplex HA 9-21 50-55 Well drained 1/16” Can be sown in situ
Atropa HP 21-30 50 Well drained 1/16”
Aubrieta HP 14-21 L 65-75 Well drained S See No. 5.
Baileya HHP 7-30 60-65 Well drained JC
Balsamorrhiza HP 14-42 60-65 Well drained 1/16”
Banana (Musa) GP 7-180 ˆ 70-80 Peaty 1/2² See No. 2.
Banksia HHSh 30-90 ˆ 65-70 Peaty S See No. 5.
Baptisia HP 7-10 70-75 Well drained 1/4” Soak then chip. See Nos. 13 and 12.
Basil HHA 7-10 60-70 Well drained 1/16” Can be sown situ
Bauhinia GSh 21-42 75-85 Peaty 1/4” See No. 13. (Soak 48 hours in hand hot water).
Beaufortia HHSh 14-60 L 55-65 Peaty S See No. 5.
Beaumontia GSh 7-30 70-75 Peaty 1/16”
Begonia HHP 15-60 L ˆ 70-80 Peaty S See No. 5. Fibrous 70-75°F, tuberous 65-70°F.
Belamcanda HP 14-60 ˆ 60-86 Well drained See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 7 days).
Bellis HB 10-15 L 70 Peaty 1/16” Reduce soil temperature at night.
Beloperone GP 30-180 L ˆ 70-75 Peaty S See No. 5.
Bergenia HP 30-180 ˆ 60-70 Peaty S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 2 weeks).
Berlandiera HHP 30-90 L 60-70 Well drained S
Beta HB 14-21 55-65 Well drained 1/4” Usually sown in situ.
Bignonia GP 30-90 ˆ 60-70 Peaty S
Billadiera HHP 30-60 55 Sandy peat JC
Billbergia HHP 7-90 L 60-70 Peaty S See No. 5.
Biscutella HHA 14-21 55-65 Well drained JC Can be sown in situ.
Bixa GT 30-180 ˆ 75-80 Peaty
Blandfordia HHP 30-90+ ˆ 60-70 Sandy peat JC
Bletilla HHP 30-365 L ˆ 65-70 Peaty S See No. 5.
Boea GP 20-60 L ˆ 70-75 Peaty S See No. 5.
Boronia GSh 30-60 L 65-75 Peaty S See No. 5.
Brachycombe HHA 10-18 70 Well drained JC
Brimeura HBb 30-60 ˆ 60-65 Sandy peat JC
Bromeliads GP 7-90 L ˆ 60-70 Peaty S See No. 5.
Browellia GP 14-21 L 75 Peaty S See No. 5.
Brunfelsia GP 30-90 ˆ 70-80 Well drained JC
Bulbinella H/HHBb 30-90 ˆ 55 Well drained JC
Bupthalmum HP 14-30 L 70-75 Well drained S
Cacti GP 5-180 L ˆ 75-80 Peaty S See No. 9.
Caesalonia HhSh 14-120 ˆ 75-80 Well drained 1/4” See No. 13. (Soak 48 hours in hand hot water).
Calandrinia HHA 5-14 55-60 Well drained 1/8” Can be sown in situ
Calceolaria GB 14-21 L ˆ 65-75 Peaty S Outdoor varieties keep temperature below 60°F.
Calendula HA 10-14 D 70 Any 1/4” Can be sown in situ, or autumn for winter greenhouse flowers.
Calibanus GP 30-120 L ˆ 70-80 Peaty S
Calliopsis HA 14 60-65 Well drained 1/8” Can be sown in situ
Callirhoe HP 30-180+ L ˆ 50 Well drained S Can be sown in situ or a cold frame.
Callistemon HHSh 14-60 L 55-65 Peaty S See No. 5.
Caltha HP 30-90 ˆ 55-60 Peaty 1/16” Keep compost slighty moist.
Camassia HBb 30-180 ˆ 55-60 Well drained 1/16”
Campanula HP, HB 14-28 L 60-70 Peaty S See No. 5.
Campsis HHSh 30-90 ˆ 70-75 Well drained S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 2 months).
Canarina GP 30-180 ˆ 65-75 Well drained JC
Candytuft HA, HP 10-15 68-85 Well drained 1/4” Can be sown in stiu. Perennials (60-65°F) can be slow and irregular.
Canna HHP 21-60 ˆ 70-75 Peaty 1/4” See Nos 12 & 13, chip and soak for 48 hours.
Capsicum GA 21-30 L 70-75 Peaty S
Cardiocrinum HBb 90-730 ˆ 50 Peaty 1/16” See No. 6.
Cardiospermum HHA 21-30 65-70 Well drained 1/2”
Carica GSh 30-120 ˆ 75 Peaty 1/8” See No. 13. (Soak for 40 hours).
Carlina HP 30-60 L 55-60 Well drained S
Carthamus HA 12-18 55-65 Well drained 1/4” Can be sown in stiu
Cassia GSh 7-90 70-75 Well drained 1/8” See No. 12.
Casuarina GT 30-90 65 Well drained JC
Catananche HP 21-25 65-75 Well drained 1/16”
Catharanthus GA/HHA 15-20 D 70-75 Peaty 1/8”
Celosia GA 10-15 L 70-75 Well drained JC Do not sow too early - likes warm bouyant conditions.
Centaurea HP, HA 7-14 D 60-70 Well drained 1/16”
Centranthus HP 21-30 60-70 Well drained JC Can be sown in situ.
Cephalaria HP 21-60 55-65 Well drained 1/4” Can be sown in situ.
Cephalilitrum HHA 14-21 65-75 Well drained JC
Cerastium HP 5-10 60 Well drained 1/16”
Ceratotheca HHA 8-14 70-75 Well drained 1/8”
Cerinthe HHA 7-14 60-65 Well drained 1/16” Can be sown in situ
Cheiranthus HB 14-21 65-75 Well drained 1/8” Sow in a reserve bed, prick out 6” apart. Plant out in Oct.
Chelidonium HP 30-365 ˆ 55-65 Well drained 1/8” See No. 16.
Chelone HP 14-42 55-65 Well drained 1/16” Needs good drainage.
Chiastophyllum HP 30-60 55 Well drained S Seeds very small.
Chionodoxa HBb 30-90 ˆ 55 Well drained 1/4”
Chlorogalum HBb 30-90 ˆ 55-80 Well drained 1/8” See No. 6.
Chrysanthemum HA, HP 10-18 60-70 Peaty 1/8” Annuals can be sown in situ. HP’s reduce temperature at night.
Cimicifuga HP 30-365 ˆ 55-60 Well drained 1/16”
Cineraria GP 14-21 L ˆ 70 Well drained JC
Cirrhopetalum GP 30-180 L ˆ 65-70 Well drained S
Cirsium HP 15-18 70-75 Well drained 1/8”
Cissus GSh 30-180 ˆ 70-75 Well drained JC
Cladanthus HA 30-35 70-75 Well drained JC
Clarkia HA 21 - Well drained 1/4” Best sown in situ, as sturdier plants are produced.
Claytonia HA 14-21 65-70 Well drained 1/8”
Clematis HP 30-270+ ˆ 70-75 Well drained 1/8” See Nos. 6 & 16.
Cleome HHA 10+14 L 70-75 Well drained S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 2 weeks).
Clerodendrum GSh 21-60 ˆ 70-75 Well drained 1/8”
Clianthus GSh 14-42 65-70 Well drained 1/16” See No. 13.
Clintonia HP 30-90 55-60 Sandy peat JC Keep compost always just moist.
Clitoria GP 15-20 70-75 Well drained 1/16” See Nos. 12 and 13. (Chip and soak for 24 hours).
Clivia GP 7-21 80-85 Peaty 1/4” Sow immediately. See No. 3.
Cobaea HHA 21-30 70-75 Well drained 1/16” Stick the seed vertically into the compost.
Coccoloba GSh 10-21 65-70 Well drained 1/4” See No. 13. (Soak for 24 hours).
Codonopsis HP 7-42 L 60-70 Slighty acid S
Coffea GSh 42-56 L 75 Peaty S See No. 2. (Soak for 48 hours).
Colchicum HBb 30-365 ˆ 55-65 Peaty 1/8” See No. 16.
Coleus HHP 10-20 L 65-75 Peaty S Indoors, likes to be warm with plenty of bright light.
Collinsia HHA 14-21 - Well drained 1/4” Best sown in situ, thin out to 6’.
Collomia HA 21 - Well drained 1/8” Best sown in situ, thin out to 6”.
Columnea GP 30-120 L ˆ 72-75 Peaty S
Commelina HHP 30-37 70 Well drained 1/8”
Conophytum GP 10-40 L ˆ 75-80 Well drained S
Convallaria HP 60-365+ L ˆ 50-60 Well drained JC See No. 16.
Convolvulus HA 5-14 70-80 Well drained 1/8” Chip (12) or soak (13) the seeds.
Cordyline GP 30-90 75-80 Peaty 1/16” See No. 13. (Soak for 10 minutes in hand hot water).
Coreopsis HP 20-25 L 55-70 Well drained S Annuals can be sown In situ
Correa HHSh 30-90 ˆ 65-72 Well drained JC
Cortaderia HP 14-21 L 60-75 Peaty S See No. 5.
Corydalis HP 30-60 L 50-60 Well drained S
Cosmos HHA 5-10 68-86 Well drained 1/8” Can be sown in situ
Cotula HHA 14-42 50 Well drained 1/16”
Crambe HP 21-42 - Well drained 1/2” Best sown In situ.
Craspedia HHA 14-30 70-75 Peaty 1/8” Can be sown in situ.
Crepis HA 5-14 70-80 Wed drained JC
Crocosmia HP 30-90 55-60 Well drained 1/16”
Crocus HBb 30-180 ˆ 55-65 Well drained 1/8”
Crossandra GP 25-30 L ˆ 75-80 Peaty S See No. 5.
Crotalaria GSh 21-30 65-75 Well drained 1/16” See No. 13. (Soak for 2 hours)
Cryptostegia GCI 30-90 ˆ 65-75 Well drained 1/16” See No. 13. (Soak for 2 hours)
Cunonia GSh 30-60 70-75 Peaty 1/16”
Cuphea HHP 8-10 L 70 Peaty S
Cyananthus HP 14-60 L 60-65 Peaty S See No. 5.
Cycad GP 30-90 ˆ 70-75 Well drained Half bury the seed lengthwise.
Cyclamen GP 30-60 D ˆ 55-60 Peaty 1/4” Keep moist and in total darkness.
Cyclamen HP 30-18O D ˆ 55-60 Peaty 1/4” See No. 6.
Cynara HP 14-30 50-55 Well drained 1/8” Can be sown In situ.
Cynoglossum HA 5-10 D 65-75 Peaty 1/4”
Cyperus HHP 25-30 70-75 Peaty JC Keep the compost slighty moist.
Cyphomandra GP 20-25 70-75 Peaty 1/16”
Cyphostemma GP 30-60 ˆ 70 Well drained 1/4” See No. 13. (Soak for 2 hours).
Cypripedium HP 30-365 L ˆ 65-70 Peaty S See No. 5. Very difficuft outside the laboratory.
Cyrtanthus GP 30-90 ˆ 55-65 Peaty S Keep the compost silghty moisty
Dahlia HHA 5-20 65-70 Peaty 1/16” Do not let the compost dry out.
Darlingtonia HP 30-90 ˆ 75-80 Peaty S Do not let the compost dry out. See also No. 5.
Datura HHSH 21-42 55-65 Well drained 1/8”
Delonix GT 30-90 ˆ 75-85 Peaty 1/16” See No. 13. (Soak for 24 hours).
Delosperma HHP 10-40 L 75 Well drained S
Delphinium HP 14-28 D ˆ 50-55 Peaty 1/16” High temps. cause dormancy. See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 2 weeks).
Desmodium GA 30-90 75-80 well drained 1/16”
Dianella H/HHP 30-90 65-70 Well drained 1/16”
Dianthus HHA, HP 14-21 60-70 Well drained JC
Diascia HHA 14-30 60 Well drained JC
Dicentra HP 30-180 L ˆ 55-60 Well drained JC See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 6 weeks).
Dichorisandra GP 7-60 70-75 Peaty JC
Dictamnus HP 30-180 ˆ 55-60 Well drained See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4-8 weeks).
Didymocarpus Gp 14-56 L ˆ 65-70 Well drained S
Dierama HP 30-180 L ˆ 60-65 Well drained S See No. 5.
Dietes HHP 30-90 ˆ 50-60 Well drained JC
Digitalis HP, HB 15-20 L 60-65 Peaty S Can be sown in situ.
Dimorphotheca HHA 10-15 L 60-70 Peaty JC
Dionaea GP 30-90 L ˆ 75-80 Peaty S See No. 5.
Dioon GP 30-90 ˆ 70-75 1/2 peat, 1/2 sand 1/4” See No. 2.
Dioscorea HP 21-36 70-75 Peaty 1/8”
Diplarrhena HP 30-90 55-65 Well drained JC
Diplolaena GSh 30-150 L ˆ 7-8O Peaty JC
Dipsacus HB 4-30 - Well drained 1/4” Best sown in situ
Disporum HP 30-180+ L ˆ 55-65 Well drained JC See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 6 weeks).
Dizygotheca HHSh 20-30 L 70 Peaty S
Dodecatheon HP 90-365 60-70 Well drained 1/16” See No. 6.
Dolichos HHA 14-30 70 Well drained 1/16” See No. 13.
Doronicum HP 15-20 L 70 Well drained S Reduce soil tempeature at night
Doryanthes HHP 30-60 65 Peaty JC See No. 13. (Soak for 3 hours).
Draba HP 30-90 ˆ 55 Well drained JC See Nos. 6 and 14.
Dracaena GSh 30-180 L ˆ 75-85 Well drained S Keep the compost slightly moist
Dracunculus HP 30-180 ˆ 55-65 Peaty JC Keep the compost slightly moist
Drosera GP 30-90 L 55-65 Peaty S See No. 5.
Dryas HP 50-180 ˆ 60-70 Well drained JC See No. 6.
Duchesnia HP 30-90 L ˆ 55-65 Well drained JC
Duranta GSh 30-60 70-75 Peaty JC
Eccremocarpus HP 30-60 ˆ 55-60 Well drained JC Cover the seed slightly with silver sand
Echeveria HHP 21-90 L ˆ 55-65 Well drained JC
Echinacea HP 10-21 L 70-75 Peaty 1/8” Reduce soil temperature at night.
Echinops HP 15-60 65-75 Peaty 1/16”
Echium HA 7-14 70 Well drained 1/4” Can be sown in situ.
Edraianthus HP 30-60 L 55-65 Well drained 1/16”
Egg Plant GA 10-21 ˆ 70 Peaty 1/8” Keep the compost slightly moist
Emilia HHA 8-15 70 Well drained 1/16”
Epilobium HP 14-30 50-60 Well drained 1/8”
Episcia GP 25-40 L 70-80 Peaty S Seeds dust like. See also No. 5.
Eranthis HBb 30-365 ˆ 60-68 Well drained 1/16” See No. 6 and 14.
Eremurus HP 30-365 L ˆ 55-65 Well drained JC See No. 16
Erica GP 30-120 L ˆ 60-70 Acid Peat S See No. 5.
Erigeron HP 15-20 55 Well drained S
Erinus HP 20-25 65-75 Well drained S
Eriobotrya HHSh 30-180 ˆ 50 Well drained JC See No. 13. (Soak for 24 hours).
Eriophyllum HP 14-42 - Well drained 1/8” Best sown outdoors and transplanted.
Eryngium HP 5-90 L ˆ 65-75 Well drained S See No. 6.
Erysium HP 14-30 - Well drained 1/4” Sow in situ.
Erythrina HHSh 10-15 70-75 Peaty 1/8” See No. 13. (Soak for 24 hours).
Erythronium HBb 30-365 ˆ 50-60 Well drained 1/8” See No. 6.
Eschscholtzia HA 14-21 60-65 Well drained 1/4” Resents transplanting, best sown in situ.
Eucalyptus HHSh, HT 14-90 ˆ 70-75 Peaty S Sow seed and chaff together. See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4 weeks).
Eucnide HHA 21-30 60-70 Well drained 1/8”
Eucomis GBb 20-25 70-75 Peaty 1/16”
Eupatorium HP 30-90 ˆ 55 Well drained JC
Euphorbia HHA,HP,GSh10-15 ˆ 70-80 Well drained 1/4” Pre chill HPs for 7 days and then soak for 2 hours.Sow in lime free compost(Ericaceous).
Eustoma HHP 10-21 L 68-77 Well drained S
Exacum GA 15-20 L 70-75 Peaty S Seed dust like. See No. 5.
Fascicularia HHP 30-120 L ˆ 60-70 Peaty S See No. 5.
Fatsia HHSH 15-20 70-75 Peaty 1/4” Keep the compost slightly moist.
Faucaria GP 14-30 ˆ 60 Well drained JC Just cover with sharp sand.
Feijoa HHSH 21-42 55-60 Peaty 1/16” Rinse seeds 3 times before sowing.
Felicia Amelloides HHP 30 55-60 Well drained JC See No. 14. (Place in fridge for 3 weeks).
Felicia BergerianaHHA 30 70 Well drained JC
Ferns HP, GP 30-180 L 65 Peaty S See No. 4.
Ficus GSh 15-90 L ˆ 70-80 Peaty S See No. 5.
Filipendula HP 30-90 55-60 Well drained JC
Flower Lawn HP 30-180 L ˆ 55-65 Well drained S See Nos. 6 or 16.
F.Cabbage & Kale HB 14-21 70-75 Peaty 1/8” Can be sown in situ
Foeniculum HP 10-14 D 65 Well drained 1/8” Dislikes transplanting, sow in situ.
Francoa HHP 14-30 L ˆ 50-55 Peaty S See No. 6.
Freesia HHBB 25-30 ˆ 65-75 Peaty 1/4” See No. 7.
Fritillaria HBb 330-540 ˆ 55-M Peaty 1/16” See No. 6.
Fuchsia GP 21-90 L ˆ 70-75 Peaty S See No. 5. Soak in rain water for 3-4 days. Keep compost moist.
Gaillardia HP, HHA 15-20 L ˆ 70-75 Peaty S Reduce soil temperature at night.
Galega HP 14-60 - Well drained 1/4” Best sown outdoors and transplanted.
Galtonia HBb 15-20 ˆ 70 Peaty 1/16”
Gardenia GSh 25-30 70-75 Peaty 1/8” Use a lime free compost (Ericaceous).
Gaura HHA 14-30 65-75 Well drained 1/16”
Gazania HHA 8-21 D 60-65 Well drained 1/8”
Gentiana HP 14-180 D ˆ 70-75 Lime free JC See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 2 months).
Gentianopsis HA 21-30 L - Well drained S Sow outdoors and thin. Sensitive to root disturbance.
Geranium HHP 3-21 ˆ 70-75 Well drained JC
Geranium HP 30-90 ˆ 50 Well drained JC See No. 6.
Gerbera GP 15-25 L 70-75 Peaty JC Sow sharp end down, don’t cover completly.
Gesneria GP 14-21 L 70-75 Peaty S See No. 5.
Geum HP 21-28+ ˆ 65-70 Peaty 1/16” Reduce soil temperature at night.
Gilia HA 17 - Well drained 1/8” Sow outdoors and thin out.
Glaucidium HP 30-90 ˆ 50-55 Peaty JC
Glaucium HA 14-21 D 60-65 Well drained JC Transplant carefully, best sown In situ.
Globularia HP 10-30 L 55 Well drained S See No. 14. (Pre-chil for 3 weeks).
Gloriosa HHBb 30 70-75 Peaty 1/16”
Gloxinia GP 15-30 L ˆ 65-75 Peaty S See No. 5.
Gnaphalium HP 14-21 L 60-70 Well drained S
Godetia HA 7-14 60-65 Well drained 1/4” Can be sown in situ
Gomphrena HHA 6-8 L 70-75 Well drained JC
Gourds HHA 15-29 80 Peaty 1/4” Can also treat as No. 5.
Grass Tree HHP 30-180 L ˆ 65 Peaty S See No. 4.
Grasses HP, HHA 10-90 L ˆ 60-75 Peaty S
Grevillea HHSh 20-25 L 75-80 Well drained S See No. 13. (Soak for 24 hours).
Gunnera HP 14-60 ˆ 70-80 Peaty 1/16”
Guzmania GP 7-90 L ˆ 60-70 Peaty S See No. 5.
Gypsophila hA, HP 10-15 ˆ 70 Peaty JC
Hacquetia HP 30-180 ˆ 55 Well drained JC See No. 16.
Haemanthus GBb 7-42 60-65 Peaty JC
Haplopappus HP 21-30 60-70 Well drained 1/8”
Hardenbergia HHP 30-90 ˆ 55-65 Well drained 1/8” See No. 13. (Soak for 24 hours).
Harpephyllum GP 10-30 70-75 Peaty 1/4” See No. 13. (Soak for 24 hours).
Haworthia HHP 21-60 L 60-65 Well drained JC
Hedychium HHP 20-25 70-75 Peaty 1/16” See No. 13. (Soak for 2 hours).
Hedysarum HP 14-42 55-65 Well drained 1/16”
Helenium HP 7-10 70 Peaty 1/16” Can be sown in situ. Reduce soil temperature at night.
Helianthemum HP 15-20 70-75 Well drained S See No. 5.
Helianthus HA 10-14 70-85 Peaty 1/4” Can be sown in situ.
Helichrysum HHA 7-10 L 65-75 Well drained S
Heliophila HHA 14-21 60-65 Well drained 1/16”
Heliopsis HP 10-15 70 Well drained 1/16”
Heliotropium HHP 14-42 ˆ 65-75 Well drained 1/16”
Helipterum HA 14-20 65-75 Peaty 1/16” Can be sown in situ
Helleborous HP 30-545 ˆ 60-65 Well drained See No. 6. May need to go through two winters outdoors.
Hemerocallis HP 21-49 60-70 Well drained 1/8” See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 6 weeks).
Hemiphora GP 30-120 ˆ 70-75 Peaty JC
Hepatica HP 30-360 L 50-55 Well drained JC See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
Heracleum HP 30-90 - Well drained 1/4” Sow in situ. See No. 6.
Herniaria HP 10-12 70 Well drained JC
Hesperis HB 20-25 L 70-85 Peaty S Can be sown in situ. Reduce soil temperature at night.
Heuchera HP 10-60 L ˆ 65-70 Well drained S
Hibiscus HHP, GA 15-30 ˆ 75-80 Peaty 1/16” Chip and soak. See Nos. 12 & 13.
Hieracium HP 21-30 50-60 Well drained JC
Hippeastrum HHBB 30-42 75 Pemy 1/8”
Hollyhock HA, HP 10-12 L 60-70 Peaty S Can be sown in situ.
Holmskioldia GSh 30-90 ˆ 60-65 Well drained JC
Hosta HP 30-90 ˆ 50 Peaty 1/16” Keep compost slighty moist.
Humulus HP 25-30 70-75 Well drained 1/4” Can be sown in situ.
Hunnemannia HHA 15-20 70-75 Well drained 1/16” Can be sown in situ. Makes a nice pot plant.
Hutchutinsia HP 14-30 - Well drained 1/4” Sow in situ.
Hyoscymus HB, HA 14-42 - Well drained 1/8” Sow in situ.
Hypericum HSh 30-90 ˆ 50-55 Well drained JC
Hypoestes GP 10-21 70-75 Well drained JC
Hyssopus HP 14-42 60-70 Peaty 1/16”
Iliamna HP 30-360 L ˆ 55-65 Well drained 1/16” See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
Impatiens HHA 21-30 L ˆ 70-75 Peaty S See No. 5. Maintain a very high humidity until germination.
Incarvillea HP 25-30 55-65 Well drained S See No. 5.
Indigofera HHSh 30-90 ˆ 50 Well drained 1/8 See No. 13. (Soak for 24 hours).
Inula HP 14-42 55-65 Well drained 1/16” Can be sown in situ
Ionopsidium HA 14-21 55-60 Well drained 1/16” Sow in situ.
Ipomaea HHA 5-21 ˆ 70-85 Peaty 1/4” Chip and soak. See Nos. 12 and 13.
Iris HP 30-545 ˆ 60-70 Peaty 1/4” See No. 6. May take two winters outdoors.
Isatis HB 14-42 50 Well drained 1/16” Sow in situ.
Ixiolirion HBb 30-90 ˆ 50 Well drained 1/16”
Ixora GSh 30-120 ˆ 70-75 Well drained 1/16” See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
Jacaranda GSh 10-15 70-85 Peaty JC
Jacobaea HA 8-21 60-65 Well drained 1/8”
Jacobinia GP 30-180 ˆ 75-80 Peaty 1/8” See No. 13. soak for 24 hours).
Jasione HP 10-21 70 Well drained JC
Jatropha GP 30-120 ˆ 65-75 Well drained 1/16”
Jovellana H/HHSh 30-90 ˆ 60-50 Well drained S
Kalanchoe GP 7-30 L ˆ 65-75 Weil drained S Likes good air circulation.
Kallstroemia HHA 14-21 ˆ 60-65 Well drained JC
Kaulfussia HA 21-30 - Well drained 1/4” Best sown in situ. Thin to 6².
Kentranthus HP 21-40 65-70 Well drained JC
Kirengeshoma HP 30-300 55-65 Peaty JC Keep compost uniformly moist.
Knautia HP 10-21 - Well drained 1/4” Best sown in situ Thin to 6’.
Kniphofia HP 10-30 70-75 Peaty 1/4” Reduce soil temperature at night
Kochia HHA 10-15 L 70-75 Well drained S
Lagerstroemia HHSh 15-20 L 70 Well drained S See No. 5.
Lagunaria GT 30-180 ˆ 68-70 Peaty 1/8” See No. 13. (Soak for 2 hours).
Lamium HP 30-60 65-70 Well drained JC
Lampranthus HHP 15-30 D 65-75 Well drained JC
Lantana HHP 42-60 ˆ 70-75 Peaty 1/8” See No. 13. (Soak 1 day in hand hot water).
Lapageria HHP 30-90 ˆ 70-75 Peaty 1/8” See No. 13. Soak for 3 days changing water 3/5 times per day
Lapeirousia HBb 30-90 ˆ 55-60 Well drained 1/8”
Larkspur HA 14-21 D 50-55 Peaty 1/16” See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 2 weeks). High temperatures cause dormancy.
Lasthenia HA 17-21 - Well drained 1/8” Best sown in situ Thin to 4”.
Lathyrus HP 20-30 ˆ 55-65 Peaty 1/4” Soak or chip the seeds. See Nos. 12 or 13.
Lavatera HA, HB, HP15-20 70 Peaty 1/16”
Lavender HSh 21-90 ˆ 55-65 Well drained JC See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4-6 weeks).
Lawrencellida HHA 21-30 L 65-75 Well drained S
Layia HA 8-30 70-75 Well drained 1/8”
Leea GP 30-90 ˆ 75-80 Well drained 1/8” See No. 13.
Leontopodium HP 10-42 L ˆ 50 Well drained S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
Leptosiphon HA 17-21 55-65 Well drained 1/16” Best sown in situ.
Leptospermum HHSh 30-180 ˆ 60 Peaty 1/16”
Leptosyne HA 6-12 L 60-65 Peaty 1/8”
Leschenaultia GSh 30-120 ˆ 60-70 Well drained JC
Lewisia HP 365+ L ˆ 50 Well drained S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 5 weeks).
Liatris HP 20-25 55-75 Well drained JC Reduce soil temperature at night.
Libertia HP 30-180 ˆ 50 Well drained 1/8” See No. 6.
Ligularia HP 14-42 ˆ 55-65 Peaty S Keep compost slighty moist.
Lilies HBb 30-365 ˆ 65-75 Peaty JC See No. 10 for more details.
Limnanthes HA 14-21 60 Well drained 1/16” Can be sown in situ
Limonium HP, HHA 10-20 D 65-70 Well drained JC Suworowii needs total darkness to germinate.
Linanthus HA 17-21 - Well drained 1/8” Sow outdoors and thin out.
Linaria HP 10-15 55-60 Well drained JC See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
Linum HP 20-25 65 Well drained 1/8” Best sown in situ.
Lisianthus HHP 10-21 L 68-77 Well drained S
Lithops GP 10-40 L ˆ 75-80 Well drained S
Lobelia HHA,HHP 15-20 L ˆ 65-75 Well drained S Place seed of perennial types in fridge for 3 months (See No. 14).
Lomatia HHSh 30-180 ˆ 60-65 Well drained 1/8”
Lonas HA 5-7 D 70 Well drained JC Can be sown in situ
Lotus HHP 14-30 ˆ 55-65 Well drained JC Transplant into 3” pots.
Luculia HHSH 30-60 ˆ 55-60 Well drained JC
Lunaria HB 10-14 70 Well drained 1/8” Can be sown in situ
Lupin HP 15-60 D ˆ 55-65 Well drained 1/8” Soak or chip the seeds. See Nos. 12 or 13.
Lychnis HP 21-30 L 70 Well drained S See No. 12. (pre-chill for 2 weeks).
Lysichitum HP 30-60 ˆ 55-65 Peaty 1/4” Keep compost saturated by standing in water.
Lysimachia HP 30-90 ˆ 55-65 Peaty S Keep compost moist.
Lythrum HP 15-30 65-70 Peaty JC
Macropidia GP 30-90 L 60-65 Peaty S See No. 5.
Malope HA 14-30 65-75 Peaty JC See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
Malva HP 5-21 70 Peaty 1/16”
Mandeville HHSh 14-30 65-75 Well drained JC Sow in 1/2 sand and 1/2 peat.
Mandragora HP 50-60 55-60 Peaty 1/8”
Marigold HHA 5-14 70-75 Peaty JC
Matricaria HP 5-21 L 65-75 Well drained S Reduce soil temperature at night.
Maurandia HHP 14-21 65-70 Well drained 1/16”
Meconopsis HP 14-28 ˆ 55-65 Peaty S Keep slightly moist. See also No. 5.
Melia GT 30-180 ˆ 55 Well drained 1/8”
Melianthus HHSh 30-180 ˆ 70-75 Peaty 1/16”
Mentzelia HA 5-21 55-60 Well drained JC
Mertensia HP 30-60 ˆ 55-60 Well drained 1/16” See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
MesembryanthemumHHA 15-20 D 65-75 Well drained S
Metrosideros HHSh 30-90 ˆ 60-60 Peaty 1/16”
Mimosa GP 21-30 L ˆ 70-75 Well drained S See No. 13. (Soak for 20 minutes in almost boiling water).
Mimulus HHP, HP 7-21 L 70-75 Peaty S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks). Then No. 5.
Mina HHP 20-25 70 Well drained 1/4” Chip and soak. See Nos. 12 and 13.
Mirabilis HHA 7-21 L 70 Well drained S
MIXTURES: the different types in these groups will all germinate at
different times. Prick out each as it emerges and do not discard
Conifer Trees HT 30-365 ˆ 55-65 Peaty JC See Nos. 6 and 16
Deciduous Trees HT 30-365 ˆ 55-65 Peaty JC See Nos. 6 and 16
Wild Flowers HA,HP 30-180 ˆ 55-65 Well drained 1/16² See No. 6
Everlasting Fls. HHA 14-21 65-75 Well drained 1/16² Can be sown in situ
Everlasting Fls. HP 30-180 ˆ 65-75 Well drained JC See No. 6
Exotics GP 30-180 ˆ 65-75 Peaty JC Fls. to attract B/flies
HA 14-21 - Well drained 1/8² Can be sown in situ
Australian Bush GP 30-180 L ˆ 75-80 Peaty S
Shore/Coastal HB,HP 30-180 ˆ 55-65 Well drained JC
Silver/Grey Fol. HP,HHA 30-180 ˆ 55-65 Well drained JC
Succulents HHP 30-90 L ˆ 65-75 Well drained S
Moluccelia 21-35 L ˆ 60 Well drained JC Pre-chill for 5 days then 40°F temp. night gives best results.
Momordica HHA 14-21 65-75 Peaty 1/8” Sow seeds singly in 3’ pots.
Monarda HP 10-40 60-70 Peaty JC Reduce soil temperature at night.
Moraea HHBb 30-90 ˆ 55-60 Well drained 1/8”
Morina HP 14-42 50 Peaty 1/16”
Mucuna GP 21-90 65-75 Peaty 1/4”
Muscari HBb 42-60 60-65 Well drained 1/16”
Mutisia H/HHSh 30-90 ˆ 70 Well drained 1/16”
Myosotidium H/HHP 30-180 ˆ 65-70 Peaty 1/16”
Myosotis HB 14-30 D 65-70 Peaty S See No. 5 but keep in total darkness.
Myrrhis HP 14-42 55-65 Well drained 1/8” Can be sown in situ
Naranjilla GP 10-30 ˆ 70-80 Peaty 1/16”
Nasturtium HA 7-12 65 Well drained 1/4” Best sown in situ
Nemesia HHA 7-21 55-70 Peaty S See No. 5.
Nemophila HA 7-21 55 Well drained 1/16” Can be sown in situ.
Neperrthes GP 30-90 ˆ 75-85 Peaty S Dont let compost dry out. See also No.5.
Nepeta HP 7-21 60-70 Well drained JC Can be sown in situ.
Nerine HHBb 14-21 65-70 Well drained S Sow immediately, keep moist and place in a polythene bag.
Nerium GSh 30-90 L ˆ 65-75 Peaty S
Nertera GP 30-90 D ˆ 65-70 Well drained SC See No. 8.
Nicandra HA 15-20 70-75 Well drained JC
Nicotiana HHA 10-20 L 70-75 Well drained S
Nierembergia HHP 15-30 ˆ 70-75 Well drained JC
Nigella HA 10-15 65-70 Well drained 1/16” Best sown in situ. Resents transplanting.
Nolana HHA 14-30 60-70 Well drained 1/16” Can be sown in situ.
Nomocharis HBb 30-180 L ˆ 45-50 Well drained JC See No. 16
Notholirion H/HHBb 30-180 L ˆ 45-50 Well drained JC See No .16
Ocimum HA 14-42 L 55-60 Well drained S
Oenothera HP 15-30 L 65-70 Well drained JC Reduce soil temperature at night.
Omphalodes HP 14-42 65-75 Well drained 1/8”
Onopordon HP,HB 30-60 55-60 Well drained 1/4” Can be sown in situ.
Onosma HP 30-60 50 Well drained 1/16”
Orchid GP 90-365 L ˆ 65-75 Well drained S
Orchis HBb 90-365 L ˆ 65-75 Well drained S
Ornithogalum GBb 30-180 ˆ 55-60 Peaty 1/16” See No. 6
Orphium GSh 21-42 L 65-70 Well drained S
Osteospermum HHA,HP 10-15 L 60-65 Well drained JC
Oxalis HBb 14-60 55-68 Well drained JC
Pachypodium GP 30-180 L ˆ 65-75 Well drained S
Paeonia HP 365+ L ˆ 50-60 Well drained JC See No. 16. Keep shaded and moist.
Palms GP 60-180 ˆ 75-80 Peaty 1/4” See No. 2
Pansy HP 14-21 D ˆ 65-75 Well drained 1/16” See No. 14. (Pre-Chill for 2 Weeks.)
Papaver HP 10-30 D 55 Well drained S Best sown in situ. P. Orientale Needs light for germination.
Paradisea HP 30-180 ˆ 50 Well drained 1/16” See No. 6
Parnassia HP 30-180 ˆ 55-65 Peaty S Stand seed pan in a saucer of water to keep soil always moist.
Parochetus HP 30-90 ˆ 50 Well drained 1/16” See No. 13.
Passiflora HHP 30-365 ˆ 70-85 Peaty 1/4” See No. 13. Give the seed container an occasional soaking.
Pavonia GSh 30-60 ˆ 75 Peaty 1/16”
Peanuts GA 7-21 70-75 Peaty 1/4” Sow and place inside a polythene bag until germination.
Peltiphyllum HP 30-90 L ˆ 55-60 Peaty S Stand seed pan in a saucer of water to keep soil always moist.
Penstemon HP 18-21 L 55-60 Well drained JC See No.14
Pentas GP 25-40 70-75 Peaty S See No.5
Peperomia GP 15-30 70-75 Peaty S See No.5
Perilla HHA 15-30 L 65-75 Peaty S
Petrea GSh 30-60 L 65-75 Peaty S
Petunia HHA 10-21 L 70-75 Peaty S F1 hybrids and doubles may need 80°F to germinate.
Phacelia HA 12-30 D 55-65 Well drained 1/4” Best sown in situ. Total dark required.
Phaeomeria GP 30-90 ˆ 80 Well drained 1/8”
Phaseolus GP 30-60 65-70 Well drained 1/16” Chip and soak. See Nos. 12 an 13.
Philodendron GP 30-120 ˆ 75-80 Peaty 1/16”
Phlomis HP 14-42 60 Well drained JC
Phlox-Annual HHA 10-21 D 55-65 Peaty 1/16” Sow direct into pots as it resents transplanting.
Phlox-PerennialHP 25-30 D ˆ 70 Peaty 1/16” See No.14. (Pre-chill for 4 weeks).
Phormium HP 30-180 ˆ 60-65 Peaty JC
Phuopsis HP 30-40 L 50-60 Well drained S
Phygelius HP 10-14 70-75 Well drained JC
Physalis HP 21-30 L 70 Well drained S
Physostegia HP 21-30 55-75 Peaty JC Reduce soil temperature at night.
Phyteuma HP 30-90 ˆ 55-65 Well drained JC See No.6
Phytolacca HP 30-60 ˆ 65-70 Well drained 1/8”
Pilea GP 14-60 L ˆ 65-75 Peaty S See No. 5.
Pinguicula HHP 30-120 L ˆ 55 Peaty S See No. 5. Use a compost 1/2 peat and 1/2 sand.
Pittosporum HHSh 30-60 55 Well drained 1/16” Place seeds in a bag and dip in boiling water for few seconds.
Platycodon HP 15-30 L 70 Well drained S
Platystemon HA 14-30 55-65 Well drained 1/16 Sow in situ
Plumbago GP 25-30 70 Well drained JC
Plumeria GP 30-180 ˆ 65-75 Peaty 1/16” See No. 13.
Podolepis HHA 21-30 L 65-70 Well drained S
Podophyllum HP 30-180 L ˆ 55-60 Peaty JC Pre-chill for 3 weeks. Keep compost always moist.
Polemonium HP 20-25 70 Peaty 1/16” Reduce soil temperature at night.
Polygala HSh 30-60 L 60-65 Well drained JC
Polygonatum HP 30-545 ˆ 50 Well drained 1/16” See No. 6.
Polygonum HP,HHA 21-60 ˆ 70-75 Peaty 1/16” Do not overwater
Portulaca HHA 14-21 L 70-85 Well drained S
Potentilla HP 14-30 65-70 Well drained JC
Poterium HP 30-60 ˆ 50 Well drained JC See No. 6.
Primula-IndoorsGA, GP 20-25 L ˆ 55-60 Peaty S P.Sinensis needs darkness for germination.
Primula-OutdoorHP 21-40 L ˆ 60-65 Peaty S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
Proboscidia GA/HHA 15-42 ˆ 70-75 Peaty 1/4”
Protea HHT 30-90 ˆ 65-75 Peaty 1/4” Sow immediately.
Prunella HP 30-60 55-65 Well drained 1/16”
Psidium 30-60 ˆ 70-75 Peaty JC See No. 13.
Pulmonaria HP 30-42 60-65 Peaty JC
Pulsatilla HP 30-180 ˆ 60-70 Well drained JC See No. 6. Trim ‘tails’ off seeds before sowing
Pyrethum HHA, HP 30-60 ˆ 55 Well drained JC Doubleness of flowers increases in 2nd year.
Pyrola HSh 30-90 L ˆ 55 Peaty S
Ramonda HP 30-60 L ˆ 55-60 Well drained S
Ranunculus HP 30-90 ˆ 50 Well drained 1/16” See No. 6.
Raoulia HP 30-90 L ˆ 55-60 Well drained S
Ratibida HA/HB/HP 21-42 68-75 Well drained 1/8” Reduce soil temperature at night.
Rechsteineria GBb 30-60 70 Well drained JC
Rehmannia H/HHP 21-42 L 60-65 Well drained JC
Reseda HB,HA 5-21 L 70 Well drained S Extra care required when transplanting.
Rheum HP 21-42 60-65 Peaty 1/8”
Rhodanthe HHA 14-30 75-80 Well drained JC Can be sown in situ
Rhodochiton HHP 12-42 ˆ 60-65 Peaty JC
Rhodohypoxis HP 30-90 ˆ 50 Well drained JC Lime free compost required.
Rhoeo GP 14-60 65-70 Peaty JC See No. 13. (Soak for 1/2 hour).
Ricinus HHA 15-21 70-75 Peaty 1/4” These seeds are poisonous.
Rochea HHP 14-42 L 60-70 PBM S See No. 5.
Rodgersia HP 12-60 L 55-60 Peaty S
Roscoea HP 30-365 L ˆ 50-55 Well drained S See No. 16.
Rothmannia HHSh 30-90 ˆ 70-75 Peaty 1/8” See No. 13. (Soak for 5 hours).
Rudbeckia HHA, HP 5-21 L 70 Peaty S Fulgida see No. 14. (Pre-chill for 2 weeks).
Ruella HP 30-60 ˆ 65-75 Peaty JC
Ruta HP 30-42 60-65 Well drained JC
Sagina HP 10-21 55 Well drained JC
Saintpaulia GP 30-60 L ˆ 70-75 Peaty S See No. 5.
Salpiglossis HHA 15-30 D ˆ 70-75 Peaty S
Salvia HHA, HA 10-14 L ˆ 68-80 Well drained S For Patens & Superba see No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
Sandersonia HHBb 30-90 ˆ 75 Well drained 1/8” See No. 13.
Sanguinaria HP 30-90 ˆ 50-55 Well drained 1/16”
Sanguisorba HP 30-60 50-55 Well drained S
Sanvitalia HA 10-21 L 70 Well drained S Take care when transplanting.
Saponaria HA,HP 10-21 L 70 Well drained S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
Sarracenia HP 30-90 L ˆ 75-80 Peaty S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 7 days) then No. 5.
Saxifraga HP 15-60 ˆ 65-75 Well drained JC See No. 6.
Scabiosa HA 10-15 ˆ 70-75 Well drained 1/16”
Schefflera GSh 20-30 75 Peaty 1/16”
Schizanthus GA 7-14 D 60-75 Peaty S
Schizopetalon HHA 6-21 60-65 Well drained 1/16”
Schizostylis HBb 30-90 ˆ 55-60 Well drained 1/16”
Scilla HP 30-180 ˆ 50 Peaty 1/16” See No. 6.
Scutellaria HP 14-180 ˆ 50 Well drained JC
Sedum HP 15-30 ˆ 50 Well drained S See No. 6.
Sempervivum HP 15-30 ˆ 70 Well drained S
Senecio HHA 10-21 L 65-75 Well drained 1/16”
Setcreasia HHP 30-40 70 Peaty JC
Shortia HP 30-60 ˆ 60-65 Peaty S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
Sidalcea HP 14-42 50 Well drained 1/8”
Silene HP 15-20 70 Well drained JC Can be sown in situ.
Silybum HA 14-21 55-60 Well drained 1/8” Can be sown in situ.
Simmondsia HHT 14-21 65-70 Well drained JC See No. 13. (Soak for 12 hours).
Sinningia GP 10-21 L 70 Peaty S
Sisyrinchium HP 30-180 ˆ 50 Well drained 1/8” See No. 6.
Smilacena HP 30-180 L ˆ 60-65 Peaty JC See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
Smithiantha GP 15-40 L 75-77 Peaty S Very small seeds
Solanum GP 15-21 L 70-80 Well drained S The plants should be placed outdoors through the summer for pollination.
Soldanella HP 30-180 L ˆ 55-60 Well drained JC See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4 weeks).
Solidago HP 14-42 50 Well drained JC
Sparaxis HBb 30-90 ˆ 50-55 Well drained 1/16”
Sparmannia GSh 21-30 65-75 Peaty JC
Specularia HA 12-30 - Well drained 1/16” Sow outdoors and thin out.
Spigelia H/HHP 30-60 L 65-70 Well drained JC See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
Stachys HP 15-30 L 70 Well drained JC Reduce soil temperature at night. Grow on the dry side.
Stapelia GP 7-30 L ˆ 65-70 Peaty S Use 1/2 peat 1/2 sand.
Stenocarpus HHT 30-90 ˆ 65-75 Well drained JC
Stephanotis GP 15-90 ˆ 75-80 Peaty 1/16” Keep the compost slightly moist.
Stereospermum GSh 30-18O ˆ 65-75 Well drained JC
Stocks HHA 10-14 L 55-60 Well drained S Can be sown in situ.
Stokesia HP 25-30 70 Peaty 1/16”
Strelitzia GP 30-180 ˆ 70-75 Sand S See No. 1. Soak for up to 3 days changing the water daily.
Streptocarpus GP 15-30 L 55-65 Peaty S Very small seeds. See No. 5.
Streptosolon HHSh 30-90 ˆ 55-65 Well drained 1/16”
Stylomecon HA 14-21 - Well drained 1/16” Sow outdoors and thin out to 6”.
Succisa HP 10-21 ˆ 65-70 Well drained JC
Sutherlandia H/HHSh 21-30 60-65 Well drained 1/16” See No. 13. (Soak for 3 hours).
Sweet Pea HA 10-20 D 55-65 Peaty 1/4² File or soak seeds. See Nos. 12 and 13. Grow cool.
Symphyandra HP 21-30 L 60-65 Well drained JC
Tacca GP 30-270 ˆ 80-85 Peaty 1/8” Soak for 72 hours. See No. 13.
Tacitus HHP 30-90 L ˆ 50-60 Well drained S
Tecophilaea HBb 30-365 ˆ 50-55 Peaty 1/16” Keep compost slightly moist.
Tellima HP 30-90 ˆ 55-60 Well drained S See No. 6.
Tephrosia HP 21-42 65-70 Well drained JC Chip and soak. See Nos. 12 and 13.
Tetranema GP 14-30 65-75 Peaty JC
Teucrium HP 25-30 70 Well drained S
Thalictrum HP 15-21 ˆ 50-60 Well drained 1/8”
Thermopsis HP 15-30 70 Well drained 1/16” File or soak the seeds. See Nos. 12 and 13.
Thunbergia HHA 14-21 ˆ 70-75 Peaty JC Keep the compost slightly moist.
Thymus HP 15-30 L 55 Peaty S See No. 5.
Tiarella HP 14-90 ˆ 50 Well drained S See No. 6.
Tibouchina GSh 30-90 L ˆ 60-70 Peaty S See No. 5.
Tigridia H/HHBb 30-90 55-60 Well drained 1/16”
Tillandsia GP 30-90 L ˆ 60-70 Peaty S See No. 5.
Tithonia HHA 5-14 L ˆ 70- Well drained S
Torenia GA 15-30 L 70-75 Peaty S See No. 5.
Townsendia HP 30-90 ˆ 60 Well drained 1/16” See No. 6.
Trachelium HHP 15-21 L 55-60 Well drained S
Trachymene HHA 15-30 D 70 Well drained 1/16” Transplant carefully.
Tradescantia HP 30-40 70 Peaty JC Reduce soil temperature at night.
Tree Fems HHP 30-120 L ˆ 65-70 Peaty S See No. 4.
Trichosanthes HHA 14-30 65-75 Peaty 1” Sow singly in 2’ pots.
Tricyrtis HP 30-90 ˆ 65-70 Well drained 1/8” Keep compost slighty moist.
Trillium HP 545+ ˆ 60-70 Well drained S See No. 15. Requires two periods of at least 3 months in the frig.
Tripteris HA 5-14 60-65 Well drained 1/8” Can be sown in situ.
Trollius HP 30-365 ˆ 50 Well drained S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 2 weeks).
Trop. SpeciosumHP 360-720 ˆ 55-60 Well drained JC
Tropaeolum HA 10-15 55-65 Peaty 1/4” Can be sown in situ
Tulipa HBb 60-90 ˆ 50 Well drained 1/8” See No. 6.
Tunica HP 14-60 ˆ 50 Well drained 1/16 See No. 6
Tweedia GP 30-90 ˆ 75 Well drained JC
Urospermum HP/HB 16-30 L 60-65 Well drained JC
Ursinia HHA 14-30 55-60 Well drained JC
Uvularia HP 30-180 ˆ 55-60 Peaty JC
Vallota HHBb 30-60 65-70 Peaty 1/16”
Veltheimia HHBb 30-90 ˆ 55-65 Peaty 1/16” Keep compost slightly moist
Venidium HHA 6-14 60-65 Peaty 1/8”
Veratrum HP 90-365 ˆ 55-60 Well drained 1/4² See No. 6 and No. 16.
Verbascum HB,HP 14-30 55-60 Well drained 1/16” Can be grown in situ
Verbena HHA,HP 14-90 D ˆ 65 Well drained 1/16” Bonariensis & Venosa. See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 2 weeks).
Verbesina HHA 14-30 60-65 Well drained 1/8”
Veronica HP 15-30 L 70 Peaty JC Reduce soil temperature at night.
Veronicastrum HP 21-40 L 55-60 Well drained JC
Vicia HP 21-40 65-70 Well drained JC
Vinca GA 15-30 D ˆ 70-75 Peaty 1/16”
Viola HP 14-21 D ˆ 65-75 Well drained 1/16” See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 2 weeks).
Viscaria HA 10-21 60-65 Well drained JC
Vriesia GP 7-90 L ˆ 60.7 Peaty S See No. 5.
Wahlenbergia HHA 14-28 L 60-70 Well drained S
Wallflower HB 10-14 65-70 Well drained 1/4” Sow in reserve bed, prick out 6² apart, plant out in October.
Waterlily GP 14-30 File seed and submerge in water at 75-85’F, change water twice daily.
Watsonia HBb 30-180 ˆ 55-65 Well drained 1/8” Keep the compost slimy moist.
Xeranthemum HA 10-15 70 Well drained JC Transplant carefully.
Xerophyllum HP 30-60 ˆ 55-60 Peaty JC
Yucca HA 30-365 ˆ 65-75 Well drained JC Filamentosa germinates at 55°F.
Zantedeschia HHP 30-90 L ˆ 70-80 Peaty S See No. 13. Keep compost quite moist.
Zauschneria H/HHP 30-60 L 60-65 Well drained JC
Zea HHA 5-14 70 Peaty 1/4” Sow seeds individually in peat pots.
Zinnia HHA 10-24 75-80 Peaty 1/16” Sow seeds individually in peat pots.
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TREES AND SHRUBS
Abies HT 21-30 L ˆ 68-75 Peaty S Soak overnight then pre-chill for 21 days. (No. 14).
Acer HT 30-365+ L ˆ 65-70 Peaty S Soak for 2 days then No. 15. (2 months warm moist, 2 months frig)
Ailanthus HT 30-90 L ˆ 50-60 Well drained S Chip, soak then No. 14 for 2 weeks.
Akebia HSh 30-180 L ˆ 50-60 Peaty S See No. 14. (4 weeks).
Albiza HSh/HT 30-90 ˆ 65-75 Well drained 1/8” Soak for 12 hours in tepid water before sowing.
Amorpha HSh 30-120 ˆ 50-60 Well drained 1/16” Soak for 12 hours in tepid water before sowing.
Andromeda HSh 30-60 L ˆ 50-60 Peaty S Stand seed pan in a saucer of water to keep soil always moist.
Araucaria HT 30-60 D 55-60 Peaty 1/4” Sow immediately
Arbutus HT 60-90 L ˆ 65-70 Peaty S See No. 14. (6-8 weeks).
Arundinaria HSh 30-90 L ˆ 70 Peaty JC Stand seed in a saucer of water to keep the soil always moist.
Asterolasia HSh 30-180 ˆ 55-65 Well drained 1/16”
Aucuba HSh 30-90 ˆ 65-70 Well drained 1/8”
Azalea HSh 50-90 L ˆ 55-60 Peaty S See No. 5 or No. 6. Keep shaded from direct sun.
Berberis HSh 60-180 L ˆ 50-65 Well drained S See No. 14. (8 weeks).
Betula HT 30-90 L ˆ 65-75 Peaty S See No. 14. (10 weeks).
Buddleia HSh 20-30 L 70-75 Peaty S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4 weeks).
Bupleurum HSh 14-60 55-60 Well drained JC
Calluna HSh 30-60 L ˆ 65-70 Peaty S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4 weeks).
Calocedrus HT 30-90 L 50-60 Peaty JC See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4 weeks).
Camellia HSh 30-90 ˆ 70-75 Peaty 1/4² See No. 13 . May also benefit from No. 14.
Caragana HSh 14-21 L 65-70 Well drained S See No. 13.
Carpinus HT 30-365 L ˆ 65-70 Well drained S See No. 15. (1 month at 70°F then 4 months in frig.) or No. 16.
Caryopteris HSh 30-90 ˆ 65-70 Well drained JC
Catalpa HT 14-30 L ˆ 60-70 Peaty S Give seedlings good ventilation to prevent damping off.
Ceanothus HSh 30-60 L 65-70 Well drained S Soak overnight then treat as No. 14 for 2 weeks.
Cedrus HT 14-60 L ˆ 60-65 Well drained S Soak for 2-3 hours then treat as No. 14 for 3 weeks.
Cephalotaxus HSh 14-60 ˆ 60-65 Peaty JC
Cercis HSh 30-90 L ˆ 70-75 Well drained JC See No.13. Soak in hand hot water then No. 14 for 2-3 months.
Chaenomeles HSh 70-90 L ˆ 55-65 Well drained S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 7-10 weeks).
Chamaecyparis HT,HHT 30-60 L 50-60 Peaty JC See No 14. (Pre-chilll for 3 weeks).
Chimonanthus HSh 63-90 L ˆ 50-60 Well drained S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 5-8 weeks).
Chionanthus HSh 30-180 L ˆ 60-70 Well drained S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 1 month)
Cistus HSh 7-30 L 65-70 Peaty S See No. 5.
Clerodendron HSh 60-90 L ˆ 65-70 Well drained S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4-6 weeks).
Colutea HSh 7-21 65-70 Well drained 1/16² Chip and soak. See Nos. 12 and 13.
Cordyline HHSh 30-60 ˆ 65-70 Peaty 1/16²
Cornus HSh 90-730 L ˆ 50-60 Well drained S See No.15. (2 months at 70°F then 3 months in frig) or No. 16.
Coronilla HHSh 30-60 65-75 Well drained JC
Cotoneaster HSh 180-365 L ˆ 70 Acid Peaty S See No.15. (3-5 months at 70°F then 3 months in frig) or No. 16.
Crataegus HSh 180-730 L ˆ 50-60 Well drained S See No.15. (3-5 months at 70’F then 3 months in frig) or No. 16.
Crinodendron H/HHSh 30-120 ˆ 55-65 Well drained JC See No.13. (Soak for 3 hours).
Cryptomeria HT 30-60 ˆ 55-65 Peaty 1/16²
Cupressus HT 30-90 L ˆ 65-75 Peaty S See No.14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
Cytisus HSh 25-30 L 70-75 Well drained S See No.13. Transplant to final quarters whilst still small.
Daboecia HSh 30-120 L ˆ 55-65 Acid peat S Never allow compost to dry out.
Daphne HSh 150- 365 L ˆ 50-60 Well drained S See No. 15.(2 months at 70°F then 3 months in the frig)
Davidia HT 300-365 ˆ 50-65 Peaty 1/4 See No. 15.(3-4 months warm moist, 3-4 months frig.).
Decaisnea HSh 30-180 ˆ 55-60 Well drained 1/4
Elaeagnus HT/HSh 140-180 ˆ 50-65 Well drained 1/16 See No. 15.(4 weeks warm moist, 8-12 weeks frig.).
Enkianthus HSh 25-60 L ˆ 60-70 Peaty S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 6 weeks).
Erica HSh 30-60 L ˆ 65-70 Peaty S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4 weeks).
Euonymus HSh 220-365 ˆ 50-65 Well drained 1/16 See No. 15.(8-12 weeks warm moist, 8-16 weeks frig.).
Fagus HT 30-365 L ˆ 50-60 Well drained JC Soak overnight then see No. 14 (pre-chill for 6 weeks) or No. 16.
Forsythia HSh 30-90 55-65 Well drained JC
FremontodendronHHSh/HSh 30-60 65-70 Well drained JC
Fuchsia HSh 21-90 L ˆ 70-75 Peaty S See No. 5. Soak in rain water for 3-4 days. Keep compost moist.
Gaultheria HSh 30-60 L 65-70 Peaty S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4-10 weeks). Acid soils only.
Genista HSh 14-30 55-65 Well drained JC See No. 13.
Gingko HT 30-60 L ˆ 70-75 Peaty 1/8 See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 8-10 weeks).
Gleditschia HT 14-30 65-70 Well drained JC Chip and soak for 24 hours. See Nos. 12 and 13.
Gymnocladus HT 30-90 ˆ 65-70 Well drained 1/4 Chip and soak in warm water for 24 hours. See Nos. 12 and 13.
Hamamelis HSh 270-365 L ˆ 50-60 Peaty 1/16 See No.15. (3 months at 70°F then place in frig. for 3 months).
Hebe HHSh 15-30 70 Peaty JC
Hibiscus HSh 30-60 ˆ 70-75 Well drained 1/16 See No.13.
Hippophae HSh 30-180 L ˆ 55-65 Well drained JC See No.14. (Pre-chill for 14 weeks).
Holodiscus HSh 30-180 ˆ 60-65 Well drained S
Indigofera HSh 30-60 65-70 Well drained 1/16 Pour nearly boiling water over seed and leave to soak overnight.
Jasminum HSh 20-30 70-75 Well drained JC
Juglans HT 30-180 L ˆ 50-60 Peaty JC See No. 14. (2-3 weeks). Place so that dividing line is at the top.
Juniperus HT 30-180 L ˆ 45-50 Peaty S Soak for 24 hours. High temperatures prevent germination.
Kalmia HSh 30-60 L ˆ 70 Sandy peat S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 months).
Kalmiopsis HSh 30-60 L 65-70 Acid, sandy peatS
Koelreuteria HT 30-60 L ˆ 55-65 Peaty JC See No. 13. (Use boiling water) then No. 14 (place in frig. for 3 weeks).
Kolwitzia HT 40-70 L ˆ 65-70 Well drained JC Soak for 24 hours then No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4 weeks).
Labumum HT 30-60 65-70 Well drained 1/16 Chip and soak. See Nos. 12 and 13.
Larix HT 30-90 L ˆ 65-75 Peaty S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 1 month).
Laurus HT 40-90 L ˆ 50-60 Peaty JC Soak for 24 hours then No. 14. (Pre-chill 1 month)
Ledum HSh 30-60 L ˆ 55-65 Acid peat S
Leycesteria HSh 30-60 60-65 Sandy peat JC
Liquidambar HT 14-365 L ˆ 65-75 Peaty S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 months). Don’t let the seeds dry out.
Liriodendron HT 60-365 L ˆ 65-75 Peaty S See No. 16.
Loiseleuria HSh 30-60 65-75 Well drained JC
Lonicera HSh 180+ L ˆ 60-70 Well drained JC See No. 14. Place in frig. for 3 months. Keep temp. below 75°F.
Magnolia HT 120+ L ˆ 50 Well drained JC See No. 14. Place in frig. for 4 months.
Mahonia HSh 90-120 L ˆ 50 Peaty JC See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
Malus HT 120-365 L ˆ 50 Peaty JC Soak for 24 hours then No. 14. (Pre-chill for 14 weeks).
Menziesia HSh 30-60 55 Sandy peat S Keep compost uniformly moist.
Morus HT 14-30 L 65-75 Peaty S See No. 5. or see No. 14. (Pre-chill for 1-3 months).
Myrtus HHSH 30-90 ˆ 55-65 Peaty JC See No. 13.
Nyssa HT 90-365 L ˆ 50 Peaty S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 months).
Olea HHT/HT 30-120 ˆ 65-70 Well drained 1/8”
Olearia H/HHSh 30-60 L 65-70 Well drained S
Ostrya HT 365+ L ˆ 50-60 Well drained JC See No. 16.
Paeonia HSh 270+ L ˆ 70 Well drained JC See No. 15.
Parthenocissus HSh 60-180 L ˆ 60-70 Well drained JC See No. 13 then 14. (Pre-chill for 6 week).
Paulownia HT 30-60 L 55-70 Peaty S See No. 5
Philadelphus HSh 30-60 65-70 Well drained JC
Phlomis HSh 30-90 ˆ 65-75 Well drained JC
Phyllodoce HSh 30-60 L 55-65 Peaty S
Picea HT 30-60 L ˆ 55 Well drained S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 21 days).
Pieris HSh 30-70 L ˆ 65-70 Acid Peat S See No. 5.
Pinus HT 30-60 L ˆ 55-65 Well drained S Soak seed, then No 14. (Pre-chill for 6 weeks).
Pittosporum HHSh 30-60 ˆ 55 Well drained 1/16” Place seeds in a bag and dip in boiling water for a few seconds.
Prunus HT 120-365 L ˆ 65-75 Well drained 1/16” Soak overnight then see No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4 months).
Pseudotsuga HT 30-180 L ˆ 75 Peaty S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 8 weeks).
Ptelia HSh/HT 80-120 55-60 Well drained 1/8” See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
Punica HHSH 30-40 L 70-75 Well drained S See No. 13
Pyracantha HSh 40-180 L ˆ 50 Peaty JC See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 6 weeks).
Quercus HT 120-365 L ˆ 50 Peaty JC Soak for 24 hours, then No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 months).
Rhododendron HSh 50-90 L ˆ 55-60 Acid Peat S See No. 6. Keep shaded from direct sun.
Rhodotypos HSh 365+ L ˆ 55-65 Peaty JC See No. 15. (3 months at 70°F, 3 months chill, 3 months at 70°F).
Rhus HSh 30-90 ˆ 65-70 Well drained JC Chip or soak. See Nos. 12 and 13.
Robinia HT 7-30 L 65-75 Well drained S See No. 13. Soak in hand hot water.
Rosa HSh 30-365+ L ˆ 55 Well drained JC See No. 16 or No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 months).
Santolina HSh 15-30 65-70 Well drained JC
Sarcococca HSh 30-120 55-65 Peaty JC
Sequoia HT 7-60 L ˆ 65-70 Peaty S
Skimmia HSh 30-180 L ˆ 50-60 Acid Peat S Soak overnight then No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4 weeks).
Sophora HT 10-21 70-85 Well drained JC Chip and soak seeds. See Nos. 12 and 13.
Sorbus HT 120-180 L ˆ 65-70 Well drained S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4 months).
Spartium HSh 7-30 70 Well drained JC Chip and soak. See Nos. 12 and 13.
Spiraea HSh 30-40 55-65 Well drained JC
Styrax HSh 30-90 ˆ 55-65 Well drained JC
Syringa HSh 14-60 L 70 Peaty S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 weeks).
Tamarix HSh 30-50 L 65-70 Peaty S See No. 5.
Taxodium HT 14-60 L 70 Peaty S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 30 days).
Taxus HT 365+ L ˆ 70 Peaty JC See No. 15. (3 months at 70°F, 3 months chill, 3 months at 70°F).
Thuja HSh 14-60 L ˆ 55 Peaty S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4 weeks).
Trachycarpus HT 40-90 L ˆ 55-65 Peaty S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 4 weeks).
Tsuga HT 7-60 L ˆ 60 Peaty S See No. 14. (Pre-chill for 3 months).
Ulex HSh 14-21 65-75 Well drained JC See No. 13.
Vaccinium HSh 365+ L ˆ 65-75 Acid Peat S See No. 16.
Viburnum HSh 240-540 L ˆ 70 Well drained JC See No. 15. (3 months 70°F, 3 months chill, 3 months 70°F).
Wistaria HSh 30-60 55-65 Well drained 1/8” Chip and soak in hand hot water. See Nos. 12 and 13.
Zelkova HT 14-60 L ˆ 50-70 Peaty S See No. 5 or No. 14. (Pre-chill for 2 weeks).
http://www.frugalfolks.com/files/food/Functions%20of%20Baking.txt
Functions of Baking Ingredients
By Sharon Lauterbach, Extension Assistant
Julie A. Albrecht, Extension Food Specialist
The following is a list of baking ingredients and a description of the
function each performs in baked goods. While substitutions can be
made, varying the proportions of ingredients in a recipe alters the
texture and flavor of the finished product.
FLOURS
Flour provides the structure in baked goods. Wheat flour contains
proteins that interact with each other when mixed with water,
forming gluten. It is this elastic gluten framework which stretches to
contain the expanding leavening gases during rising. The protein
content of a flour affects the strength of a dough. The different
wheat flour types contain varying amounts of the gluten forming
proteins. Hard wheat, mainly grown in midwestern U.S. has a high
protein content. Soft wheat, grown in southern U.S. has less protein.
In yeast breads, a strong gluten framework is desirable, but in cakes,
quick breads and pastries, a high protein flour makes a tough
product.
Bread flour is a hard wheat flour with about 12 percent protein. Bread
flour is used for yeast raised bread because the dough it produces
has more gluten than dough made with other flours. Sufficient gluten
produces a light loaf with good volume. Slices hold together, rather
than crumble.
Cake flour is a soft wheat flour that is 7.5 percent protein. The lower
gluten content causes products to have a tender, more crumbly texture
that is desirable in cake.
All purpose flour is blended during milling to achieve a protein content of
10.5 percent. This medium protein flour can be used for all baking
purposes. If using all purpose flour in place of cake flour in a recipe,
substitute 1 cup minus 2 tablespoons all purpose flour for 1 cup cake
flour.
Whole wheat flour may be substituted for part of the white flour in yeast
and quick bread recipes, but the volume of the finished product will be
reduced. Whole wheat flour contains the nutritious germ and bran as well
as the endosperm of the wheat kernel. Bran particles cut through the
gluten during mixing and kneading of bread dough, resulting in a smaller,
heavier loaf. If substituting a very coarsely ground whole wheat flour for
all purpose flour, use 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons whole wheat flour for every
cup of all purpose flour. To substitute whole wheat flour in a white bread
recipe, use half whole wheat and half bread flour for the best results.
Wheat germ, though not a flour, is often used in place of part of the flour
in recipes for flavor and fiber. Protein, vitamins, minerals, and
polyunsaturated fats are concentrated in the germ of grain kernels.
Wheat germ, preferably toasted, can be used in place of up to 1/3 of the
flour in a recipe.
The following non-wheat grain products are often used in baked goods.
They are rich in protein but most do not have the potential for developing
gluten. For this reason, at least 1 cup of wheat flour should be used for
every 1 cup of non-wheat flour so the product will not become too heavy.
Rye flour is often used in combination with wheat flour for bread. Light rye
flour can be successfully substituted for 40 percent of wheat flour in a
recipe without loss of volume. Medium and dark rye flours should be limited
to 30 percent and 20 percent, respectively, of the total flour amount.
Triticale flour is a hybrid of wheat and rye. It has an average protein content
higher than that of wheat flour. In yeast bread dough, triticale flour has
better handling properties than rye flour because it will form gluten, but does
not handle as well as wheat dough. For a good quality dough, ferment yeast
dough made with triticale flour for a shorter period than wheat flour dough.
Oat flour has a relatively high protein content, 17 percent, but does not form
gluten. Oat flour can be substituted for as much as 1/3 of wheat flour in
bread.
Corn meal is coarsely ground dried corn. Corn flour is more finely ground corn.
Both corn flour and corn meal contain 7-8 percent protein on a dry basis.
Neither corn meal nor corn flour will form gluten. A grainy texture in cornbread
can be avoided by mixing the cornmeal with the liquid from the recipe, bringing
to a boil, and cooling before mixing with the other ingredients.
Rice flour has about 6.5-7 protein and does not form gluten. For people who do
not tolerate gluten, rice flour is an acceptable substitute for wheat, barley, rye
or oat flours. In baked products, 7/8 cup of non-waxy rice flour can be used in
place of 1 cup all purpose wheat flour.
Potato starch flour, another non-gluten forming flour is usually used in
combination with other flours. It has a mild potato taste. For substitutions, 5/8
cup of potato flour can be used for 1 cup of all purpose flour.
Soy flour contains 50 percent protein and is used primarily to boost the protein
content of baked goods. Soy flour cannot form gluten and does not contain
starch. Its use in large amounts affects the taste of baked goods and causes
them to brown quickly. An acceptable substitution is to take 2 tablespoons flour
out of each cup of flour in a recipe and add 2 tablespoons soy flour.
SWEETENERS
Sucrose, (table sugar) has many functions in food other than providing sweetness.
In small amounts, added sugar helps yeast begin producing gas for raising yeast
dough. Sugar in large amounts slows yeast fermentation; in a very sweet dough the
rising time is longer. Sugar tenderizes dough and batter products and may help the
baked product to brown. Moisture is retained better in sweetened breads than in
unsweetened breads. It is the sugar in cookie dough that causes spreading to
occur during baking. Reducing the amount of sugar by more than 1/3 can cause
loss of tenderness, moisture, browning, and sweetness. The volume may increase in
a bread recipe when sugar is reduced.
Fructose in crystal form is nearly twice as sweet as sucrose and is more expensive.
Fructose attracts more water than sugar, therefore, fructose sweetened products
tend to be moist. Baked products made with fructose will be darker than if they were
made with sucrose.
Honey is sweeter than sugar because it contains fructose. Honey has a distinctive
flavor. When using honey in place of sugar, use 3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon honey in
place of 1 cup sugar and reduce the other liquid ingredients by 2 tablespoons. Even
when liquid is reduced, a product that contains honey will be moist because the
fructose absorbs moisture from the atmosphere. Too much honey may cause the
product to become too brown.
Molasses imparts a dark color and strong flavor to baked foods. It is not as sweet as
sugar. When using molasses in place of sugar, use 1-1/3 cups molasses for 1 cup
sugar and reduce the amount of liquid in the recipe by 5 tablespoons. Because
molasses is more acidic than sugar, it may be necessary to add 1/2 teaspoon baking
soda for each cup of molasses used in substitution for sugar. Replace no more than
1/2 the sugar called for in the recipe with molasses.
The following artificial sweeteners are available for home use. They provide sweetness
to homemade foods but lack the browning, tenderizing, and moisture retaining
properties provided by table sugar. Specially formulated recipes are often needed to
make a product with acceptable texture and appearance when using artificial
sweeteners. Because the different low-calorie sweeteners vary in sweetness and bulk,
package directions must be followed for the amount to use in place of sugar.
Saccharin is a heat stable noncaloric sweetener that, in its pure form is 200-300 times
as sweet as sucrose. Bulking agents are added to saccharin products to aid in
measuring. Saccharin has a bitter aftertaste.
Acesulfame K (Sweet OneSM) is a very low calorie sweetener that is 200 times as sweet
as sucrose. It is heat stable so it can be used in baked goods. For improved texture in
baked products, use acesulfame K in combination with granulated sugar. Acesulfame K
reportedly has no unpleasant aftertaste.
Aspartame, commonly known as NutrasweetSM, is not heat stable so it is not an
appropriate sweetener for baked goods.
SALT
Salt is used to enhance the flavors and sweetness of other ingredients in food. If salt is
omitted or reduced, other spices or flavorings in the recipe should be increased slightly.
In yeast dough, salt slows yeast fermentation. Omitting or reducing the amount of salt in
yeast dough can cause the dough to rise too quickly, adversely affecting the shape and
flavor of bread.
LEAVENING AGENTS
Baking Soda produces gas for leavening when combined with an acidic ingredient such as
vinegar, lemon juice, or molasses. The volume of quick breads, cookies, cakes, and some
candies depends largely on the amount of baking soda added to the batter or dough.
Reducing the amount of baking soda without replacing it with another leavening agent will
reduce the volume and lightness of the finished product.
Baking powder contains baking soda and the right amount of acid to react with it. Batters
made with double acting baking powder rise twice; once when dry and moist ingredients are
mixed together, and again when the product is baked.
Yeast is a living microorganism until it is destroyed by heat. As yeast grows and multiplies
it gives off carbon dioxide which causes the dough to rise. Its action is affected by the
addition or deletion of other ingredients such as salt and sugar. Using less yeast than
specified in a recipe causes the dough to take longer to reach the desired volume in the
rising stages.
FATS
Fat, in the form of solid shortening, margarine, or butter; or in the liquid form of oil
contributes tenderness, moistness, and a smooth mouthfeel to baked goods. Fats enhance
the flavors of other ingredients as well as contributing its own flavor, as in the case of butter.
In baked goods such as muffins, reducing the amount of fat in a recipe results in a tougher
product because gluten develops more freely. Another tenderizing agent such as sugar can
be added or increased to tenderize in place of the fat. A small amount of fat in a yeast dough
helps the gluten to stretch, yielding a loaf with greater volume.
Shortening: Shortening is 100 percent fat and is solid at room temperature. It is often made
of hydrogenated (solidified by adding hydrogen) vegetable oils, but sometimes contains animal
fats. The flakiness of pastry comes from solid fat such as shortening or lard rolled in layers with
flour. In some recipes for cookies or cake, shortening is creamed with sugar to trap air. A lighter
product will result. There are emulsifiers in shortening to help emulsify shortening and liquid.
This means that oil and water stay mixed together, creating an even distribution of flavors and a
consistent texture in batters and dough.
Butter is made from cream and has a fat content of at least 80 percent. The remaining 20
percent is water with some milk solids. Butter imparts a good flavor without a greasy mouthfeel to
baked goods because it melts at body temperature.
Margarine is made from fat or oil that is partially hydrogenated, water, milk solids, and salt.
Vitamins and coloring are usually added also. The fat or oil can be of animal or vegetable origin.
Margarine has the same ratio of fat to non-fat ingredients as butter (80:20), and can be used
interchangeably with butter.
Reduced fat substitutes have less than 80 percent fat. These do not work the same as butter or
margarine in baked goods, though some specially formulated recipes can be found on the packages
of these products. Fat free margarines also are available and contain no fat. These margarines are
best used as spreads.
Oil is used in some muffin, bread and cake recipes. Oil pastry is mealy rather than flaky. To
substitute oil for butter or margarine, use 7/8 cup oil for 1 cup butter or margarine. If oil is used in
place of a solid fat for some cake recipes, the texture will be heavier unless the sugar and egg are
increased.
EGGS
Eggs serve many functions in baked goods. They add flavor and color, contribute to structure,
incorporate air when beaten, provide liquid, fat, and protein, and emulsify fat with liquid ingredients.
Reducing or omitting egg yolks can result in less tenderness. Reducing or omitting egg whites can
result in less volume. Cakes made without the emulsifying action from the egg yolk may not have a
uniform flavor and texture. If a low fat, low cholesterol baked product is desired, use 2 egg whites
for 1 whole egg; the white has very little fat or cholesterol. When a recipe calls for an egg, the best
size to use is a 2 oz. Grade A large egg.
LIQUIDS
Liquids are necessary in baked goods for hydrating protein, starch and leavening agents. When
hydration occurs, water is absorbed and the chemical changes necessary for structure and texture
development can take place. Liquids contribute moistness to the texture and improve the mouthfeel
of baked products. When water vaporizes in a batter or dough, the steam expands the air cells,
increasing the final volume of the product.
Milk contributes water and valuable nutrients to baked goods. It helps browning to occur and adds
flavor. When making yeast dough, milk should be scalded and cooled before adding to other
ingredients. This is done to improve the quality of the dough and the volume of the bread.
Juice may be used as the liquid in a recipe. Because fruit juices are acidic, they are probably best
used in baked products that have baking soda as an ingredient.
References:
American Home Economics Association. Handbook of Food Preparation. 8th edition. 1980.
Charley, H. Food Science. 2nd edition. New York: Macmillan Publishing Company. 1986.
Dobler, M. Gluten Intolerance. Revised edition. Chicago: American Dietetic Association. 1991.
McGee, H. On Food And Cooking: The Science And Lore of the Kitchen. New York: Macmillan
Publishing Company. 1984.
Penfield, M., and Campbell, A. Experimental Food Science. 3rd edition. San Diego: Academic Press,
Inc. 1990.
Rombauer, I., and Becker, M.R. Joy of Cooking. 13th edition. New York: Bobbs-Merrill Company, Inc.
1975.
File NF186 under FOODS & NUTRITION
A-2c, Selection
Issued March 1994
Electronic version issued July 1995
pubs@unl.edu
http://www.frugalfolks.com/files/food/Cooking%20Tips%20from%20Sally%20Jo.txt
~*~ Be careful when eating mango - the juice will stain your clothing.
~*~ Pure maple syrup should be refrigerated after opening to keep mold
from forming. It can be refrigerated for up to 1 year.
~*~Always heat refrigerated syrup (or at least bring it to room
temperature) before pouring over pancakes or waffles.
~*~ Heat a bottle (glass) of syrup by placing it in a pan of hot water
over low heat. Or pour syrup into a pan and heat directly, then pour into
a pitcher. Heat ½ cup of syrup in the microwave at HIGH (100 % power) for
30 to 60 seconds, depending on how cold it is; slightly longer for a larger
amount.
~*~ Add a smoky flavor to burgers by mixing 1/3 cup diced, crisply cooked
smoked bacon or ham with the ground beef before forming into
patties. Since bacon and ham are salty, don’t add as much salt as you
normally would.
~*~ Hollowed-out grapefruit halves make great individual serving dishes
for fruit compotes or salads. Thick-skinned grapefruit make sturdier bowls
than those with thin skins. After the flesh and membranes are removed, put
the grapefruit shells in a large bowl of ice water in the fridge to make
them as firm as possible. Drain and blot dry just before filling.
~*~ Personalize store-bought cole slaw by stirring in shredded cheddar
cheese, apple, carrots or green or red bell pepper, caraway or celery
seeds, toasted almonds, sour cream, or a dash of balsamic vinegar.
~*~ To add a delicious flavor to pastry pie crusts, once the pie dough is
in the pan and fluted, sprinkle the bottom and sides with about ¼ cup
ground or finely chopped, toasted nuts. Use your fingers or the back of a
spoon to gently press the nuts into the pie crust; bake or fill as usual.
~*~ Adding ½ teaspoon peppercorns to a shaker full of ground pepper will
freshen the flavor and keep it shaking freely.
~*~ To cut a pocket in pork chops for stuffing, choose loin or rib chops
that are about 1½ inches thick (have your butcher cut some if those
displayed aren’t thick enough). Cutting from the fat side, use a sharp,
pointed knife to make a horizontal slit about inches wide almost to the
bone. Make the inside pocket larger than the actual slit. Fill the pocket
with stuffing and secure the opening with toothpicks.
~*~ Ounce for ounce, french fries contain 12 times the fat and almost 3
times the calories of a baked potato.
~*~ Though the most commonly available raspberry is red, there are also
black and golden varieties. The latter are usually available only in
specialty produce markets. If you can find all three colors, combine them
in a compote, topped by a dollop of softly whipped cream, for a spectacular
dessert.
~*~ Frozen bread is easier to cut into very thin slices for the
calorie-conscious.
~*~ To make messy sandwiches like sloppy joes less sloppy, buy unsliced
buns and cut off the top quarter of each bun. Hollow out the bottom
portion, then spoon the filling into it and replace the bun’s top.
~*~ Making crustless sandwiches ahead for a party? The edges will stay
fresher if you wait until just before serving to cut off the crusts. Stack
2 or 3 sandwiches at a time and cut the crusts off all at one.
~*~ Parboil dense foods like carrots or potatoes so they can be combined
with quick-cooking ingredients like celery in sautes. This insures that
all the ingredients will complete cooking at the same time, to the same
degree of doneness.
~*~ Bring out the flavor of sesame seed by toasting it, either in a dry
skillet over medium heat, or in a 350° oven. Stir occasionally, toasting
only until seed begins to turn golden brown.
~*~ It’s easier to perfectly center a gelatin-based mold if you first
rinse off the plate it’s to be turned out on with cold water.
~*~ When adding dried herbs to a cold mixture like salad dressing, give
them a boost by mixing them with just enough hot water to moisten. Set
aside 15 minutes before using.
~*~ Herb butter is wonderful on meats, vegetables, fish, bread - you name
it. Simply add about ¼ cup finely chopped fresh herbs (or about 1½
tablespoons dried herbs) to ½ cup softened butter and beat. Cover and
refrigerate for at least 3 hours before using. If the herb butter will
accompany hot foods like meat, it can be served cold. For breads, however,
remove it from the refrigerator 30 minutes before serving.
~*~ Make a big batch of herb butter and freeze part of it for up to 6
months to use at a later date.
~~*~~*~~*~~
Good friends are the sisters and brothers you found outside
your family.
~~*~~*~~*~~
Sally Jo
“Robyn
Here are a few for tubs and sinks in the bathroom.
Herbal Scouring Powder For Sinks:
1 cup baking soda
1/4 cup dried sage leaves, ground
1/4 cup rosemary leaves, ground
1 teaspoon cream or tartar
Combine all ingredients in a plastic or glass container, preferably
one with a shaker top. Shake well, sprinkle a small amount of powder
into sink and scrub with damp cloth or sponge. Rinse well with plain
water.
Whitening Scouring Powder:
1 cup baking soda
2 teaspoons cream of tartar
1/8 cup borax
1/4 cup grated lemon, orange, or grapefruit peel
(This combination of borax and citrus will kill germs and remove
stains).
Combine all ingredients as you would above, preferably with a shaker
top. Shake well, sprinkle into sink and scrub with cloth or sponge.
Lavender Soft Scrubber
(This will also make your hands really soft)
3/4 cup baking soda
1/4 cup powdered milk
1/8 cup liquid castile soap
5 drops lavender essential oil
water
Combine baking soda, milk, castile soap, and lavender oil in a
squirt-top bottle, then add just enough water to make a smooth paste. Shake
it up to mix it, then apply it to your surface, then wipe clean with
damp cloth or sponge.
Ok...for the toilet!
GErms-B-Gone Toilet Cleaner
The book says...”This is an antibacterial spray cleaner especially
formulated for cleaning the general surface area of the toilet and under
and behind the seat.
2 cups water
1/4 cup liquid castile soap
1 tablespoon tea tree essential oil
10 drops eucalyptus or peppermint essential oil
Mix all ingredients in a plastic spray bottle and shake well. Spray
on toilet surfaces and wipe clean with a damp cloth or sponge.
No Scrub Toilet Cleaner
Book says....This is for toilet bowls that have an everlasting ring
around them. You can employ this recipe just before going to bed; by
morning, even the toughest stains will have disappeared.
1 cup borax
1 cup vinegar
10 drops pine or lavendar essential oil
5 drops lemon or lime essential oil
Combine all ingredients in a plastic bowl or bottle and pour all at
once in the toilet bowl. Allow to sit overnight, then in the morning
simply flush.
Ok, Michelle...those are the best for the bathroom..I’ve got to
run...but here’s one for a kitchen sink that smells SO good!
Country Spice Scrubber
1 cup baking soda
3 teaspoons ground cinnamon
3 drops cedar or sweet orange essential oil
Combine all ingredients in an airtight container and shake well to
blend. Sprinkle a small amount of the powder into the sink and scrub
with a damp sponge...rinse well.
Hope these help you!!!!
Robyn
Subject: Peroxide/Oxy-Subje good health
This is what Oxi clean is... 3% peroxide; did you Know that????
This was written by Becky Ransey of Indiana
“I would like to tell you of the benefits of that plain little old
bottle of
3% peroxide you can get for under $1.00 at an y drug store. My husband
has
been in the medical field for over 36 years, and most doctors don’t
tell you
about peroxide, or they would lose thousands of dollars.”
1. Take one capful (the little white cap that comes with the bottle)
and
hold in your mouth for 10 minutes daily, then spit
it out (I do it when I bathe)
No more canker sores and your teeth will be whiter without expensive
pastes.
Use it instead of mouthwash (Small print
says ‘mouth wash and gargle’ right on the bottle)
2. Let your toothbrushes soak in a cup of “Peroxide” to keep
them free of germs.
3. Clean your counters, table tops with peroxide to kill germs
and leave a fresh smell. Simply put a little on your dishrag when you
wipe,
or spray it on the counters.
4. After rinsing off your wooden cutting board, pour peroxide
on it to kill salmonella and other bacteria.
5. I had fungus on my feet for years - until I sprayed a 50/50 mixture
of
peroxide and water on them (especially the toes) every night and let
dry.
6. Soak any infections or cuts in 3% peroxide for five to ten minutes
several times a day. My husband has seen gangrene
that would not heal with any medicine, but was healed by soaking in
peroxide.
7. Fill a sp ray bo ttle with a 50/50 mixture of peroxide and water
and keep
it in every bathroom to disinfect without harming your septic system
like
bleach or most other disinfectants will.
8. Tilt your head back and spray into nostrils with your 50/50 mixture
whenever you have a cold, or plugged sinuses. It will bubble and help
to kill the
bacteria. Hold d for a few minutes then blow your nose into a tissue.
9. If you have a terrible toothache and cannot get to a dentist right
away,
put a capful of 3% peroxide into your mouth and
hold it for ten minutes several times a day. The pain will lessen
greatly .
10. And of course, if you like a natural look to your hair, spray the
50/50
solution on your wet hair after a shower and comb it through. You will
not
have the peroxide burnt blonde hair like the hair dye packages, but
more
natural highlights if your hair is a light brown, reddish, or dirty
blonde It also
lightens gradually so it’s not a drastic change.
11. Put half a bottle of peroxide in your bath to help rid boils,
fungus, or
other skin infections.
12. You can also add a cup of peroxide instead of bleach to a load of
whites
in your laundry to whiten them. If there is blood on clothing, pour
directly on the soiled spot. Let it sit for a minute, then rub it and
rinse with
cold water. Repeat if necessary.
13. I use peroxide to clean my mirrors, and there is no smearing which
is
why I love it so much for this.
I could go on and on. It is a little brown bottle no home should
be without! With prices of most necessities rising, I’m glad there’s a
way
to save tons of money in such a simple, healthy manner.
Granny note:
If a caged bird, catches a feather and pulls it out, before it is time to moult, they can bleed to death.
The birds bleeding can be stopped with a few drops of peroxide, it will stop the bleeding.
It is my number one medicine, stops my bleeding from cuts and has worked a dog, who lost the fight.
Works on bug bites too, LOL, just pour it on.
granny
Prickly Pear Cactus Medicine
Treatments for Diabetes, Cholesterol, and the Immune System
By (author) _Ran Knishinsky_
(http://www.innertraditions.com/Contributor.jmdx?action=displayDetail&id=486)
ISBN-13: 978-0-89281-149-6
ISBN: 0-89281-149-8
Quality Paperback
Page Count: 144; 5.00 (width) x 7.75 (height)
Imprint: Inner Traditions
Availability: Usually ships within 1-2 business days.
Price: $9.95
(http://www.innertraditions.com/Shopping.jmdx?action=addToCart&sourcePage=%2FProduct.jmdx%3FsearchString%3D0-89281-149-8%26action%3DdisplayDetail%26selectedTextTypeKeynames%3D23%26id%3D867%26displayZoom%3D1&purchaseableId=867)
also available locally and on amazon.com
Book Excerpt
Chapter 3—The Healing Parts of the Prickly Pear Cactus
Very few plants in the botanical kingdom are a vegetable, fruit,
flower,
and, most importantly, a medicine. The prickly pear cactus is unique
among
cacti, and in fact among all plants, in that each part of the plant
may be used
for some healthful purpose. The fruit of the cactus—also known as the
pulp or
tuna—can be eaten much like other fruits. The pad is the source of
many
vitamins and minerals. The flowers, which grow from the fruit, are
used as
herbs. Each of these uses is detailed in the following sections.
Cactus Fruits
One of the tastiest parts of the prickly pear cactus is the fruit.
Although
low in calories, it is apt to satisfy the sweetest tooth and therefore
makes
an ideal treat for those watching their waistline. It is similar in
shape to
the kiwi and comes in its own convenient wrapper. It can be picked off
the
cactus and eaten raw or prepared in many different ways.
The most common preparations of the fruit are in the forms of
beverages,
syrups, candies, jellies, marmalades, barbecue sauce, and popsicles
(see
chapter 11). In the Caicos Islands and throughout various communities
in Latin
America, the fruit is used for making wine and other alcoholic
beverages.
The common name for the prickly pear fruit is tuna. Other names for
the
fruit include Indian fig and cactus pear. The fruit is becoming
increasingly
available in the United States in grocery and specialty stores. When
available,
it is offered for sale both fresh and dried. In Israel, where
exportation of
the cactus fruits has grown into a large, commercially successful
business,
the fruit is referred to as a “sabrah.†Interestingly, the word
sabrah is
also used to identify a person born in the land of Israel. According
to local
folklore, like the prickly pear fruit, the people of Israel have a
rough
exterior but are tremendously sweet and soft inside.
Vitamin and Mineral Content
The fruit is packed with co-factors that boost immunity. It contains
significant portions of the minerals calcium, magnesium, and
potassium. It also
contains a large proportion of antioxidant compounds, including
flavonoids, that
help protect against cancer and are chiefly responsible for protecting
the
body against the oxidation of cholesterol, a subject that will be
investigated
in chapter 4. Like the pads (see below), the fruit is high in vitamin
A in
the form of beta-carotene and also vitamin C.
Medicinal Benefits
The fruits of the prickly pear have been under intense focus by
researchers
in recent years. Scientists have noted positive links between the
consumption of the cactus fruit and its antihyperglycemic effects. In
a study published
by the International Journal of Pharmacognosy, researchers found that
the
daily intake of the prickly pear fruit yielded positive results in
laboratory
animals. For example, the Opuntia dillenii species of the fruit has
exhibited
a notable antidiabetic effect on rabbits. This species of fruit
produced
hypoglycemia in rabbits mainly by reducing intestinal absorption of
glucose.
Studies conducted at the University of Arizona by Dr. Maria Luz
Fernandez,
one of the prickly pear’s key researchers, show the effects of diet
on
cholesterol metabolism. Her research includes the use of prickly pear
pectin, a
glutinous substance found in the cactus fruit. The results of the
tests point to
a decrease in plasma cholesterol, which is mainly a decrease in
low-density
lipoprotein. Other results also suggest that prickly pear pectin may
modulate
the body’s glucose response.
Cactus Pads
The nutritional content of the fruit of the prickly pear is only
surpassed
by the nutritional content of the prickly pear’s pads.
Vitamin and Mineral Content
The modest cactus pads of the prickly pear are a storehouse of
nutrients.
They include a healthy dose of the minerals potassium, magnesium,
calcium, and
iron. They are also particularly high in the dietary antioxidant
vitamin A
(in the form of beta-carotene) in levels comparable to spinach, and
high in the
antioxidant vitamin C.
Antioxidants are agents that restrict the deleterious effects of
oxidant
reactions within the body. Daily intake of antioxidants has shown to
be
effective in preventing the oxidation of arterial cholesterol and
reversing arterial
damage. In chapter 4, I will explore the role of antioxidants on
plasma LDL
cholesterol concentrations.
Amino Acids
The pads also contain a full range of amino acids, the building blocks
of
protein, including the eight essential amino acids not manufactured by
the
body. The benefits of amino acid consumption are far-reaching, as
protein is
involved in multiple chemical interactions within the body. It is
extremely rare
that a plant source provides such a high and broad composition of
amino
acids as the prickly pear. Its utility as a nutritional, high-fiber,
low-fat food
is amplified by this unique and exquisite amino acid profile. Vegans
and
vegetarians who rely on legumes such as soybeans and peas to fulfill
their
protein requirements will find in the nopal pads a high-quality source
of protein.
Medicinal Benefits
According to Charles W. Weber, professor of nutritional sciences at
the
University of Arizona, perhaps the most important component in the
cactus is its
dietary soluble fiber, which comes especially in the mucilage and
pectin.1
Mucilage is the sticky juice that oozes from the pad when it is
sliced. In
medical circles, this sticky substance is referred to as mucilaginous
polysaccharide. Interestingly, the polysaccharides are the primary
active ingredient of
other popular immune-stimulating herbs such as aloe vera, echinacea,
astragalus, and Oriental mushrooms.
Other recent medical studies on the prickly pear cactus pads have
explored
and verified their use as an “antidiabetic†remedy. Studies
published in the
Journal of Ethnopharmacology and Diabetes Care have documented the
effectiveness of prickly pear pad use in the treatment of individuals
with type II
diabetes. Results of the studies have yielded strong positive results
showing a
noticeable hypoglycemic effect in patients with non-insulin-dependent
diabetes mellitus