How to Install the AR-15 Lower Parts Kit

https://www.80-lower.com/blogs/80-lower-blog/how-to-install-the-ar15-lower-parts-kit/ ^ | Black_Rifle_Gunsmith

[Black_Rifle_Gunsmith]

HOW TO INSTALL THE AR-15 LOWER PARTS KIT

Installing the lower parts kit in your AR-15's lower receiver should take less than two hours for first-time builders. This guide will illustrate how to perform each assembly and install step with pictures and written instructions. We strongly recommend finding the right tools before you get started, lest you end up with missing roll pins and springs that flew off into the carpet, never to be found again (you don't want to put a pause on your install half-way through). This guide is applicable for both a finished 80% lower (AR-15, AR9, and 300 BLK builds) and a "retail" stripped lower receiver.

Parts Required

Reference this visual chart to ensure you have all components required in the LPK. Many parts kits do not include the grip, castle nut, or latch plate.

Tools Required

• Roll Pin Punches. You'll want three punches: 3/32", 1/8", and 5/32". The last two are optional but helpful, while the first is essential: You'll need the 3/32" punch to install the roll pins for the bolt catch and trigger guard.
• Gunsmithing Hammer. To be used with your punches, the hammer will also help with installing the pins for the hammer and trigger, which make for a tight fit.
• Needle-Nose Pliers. Useful for handling the tiny detents and springs that retain the takedown and pivot pins.
• Masking Tape. Useful for covering up your receiver's finish to prevent damage while hammering and using the punches. This is of particular concern when installing the bolt catch roll pin.
• Razor or Knife. Useful for keeping the spring-loaded detent compressed when installing the front takedown pin.
• Lubricant. Essential for making pins slide in easily, lubricant will also help protect your anodized finish.
• 3/16" Allen Key. Required to install the pistol grip's screw and washer.

[Magnum44]

We are pretty much philosophically in agreement, though if you are on the receiving end, that AR can be very intimidating even out to several hundred yards.

[Yo-Yo]

I have a Magpul MOE trigger guard, and one end does attach with a setscrew, in the same position that the G.I. trigger guard has the detent for winter trigger position.

However, the other end of the Magpul MOE trigger guard still uses the same roll pin.

There is also a company, Aero Precision, that makes lowers with threaded holes for the bolt catch pin and safety detent spring assembly, so that you can simply thread in the pin for the bolt catch, and the safety selector spring/detent is captive under a setscrew so that you can swap out endplates without the safety selector detent flying out.

[Redcitizen]

You can get an ar15 called an scr. Based on a hunting rifle type stock similar to a mini 14. Uses ar mags. https://fightlite.com/search/?q=Scr+rifle

[Charles Martel]

Ah, now that I think about it, I was thinking of the MagPul grip with the optional snap-in trigger guard that covers the rear mounting ears and uses a set screw in the forward mounting point only. I think they discontinued that model of the grip.

[atomic_dog]

I know it might sound like a stupid question...but here in MA it is a AwB State. I can get a mini 14, but not an AR15. Never thought about it. Anyone ever see that?

Most of these so-called assault weapons ban are actually bans on semiautomatic rifles by certain features. It started in California in 1990 and has been going ever since. There has not been a ban put in place that gun owners have not been able to work around, which is "verbatim compliance with the law as written" and is usually achieved by flow charting the law which will reveal a gap. The adaptations are usually referred to as "neutering" but many of them will work around other state law against features. When searching for the use the string "ca compliant grip or "california featureless." There are countless ones out there but two of the oldest and most successful are the "monsterman grip" Monsterman grips.

Or the "Fin Grip" which is Kydex wrapped around the grip with a "fin to eliminate the gap. I use these with a thumbrest on an AK and after awhile you get perfectly used to it.

[Vermont Lt]

Wow. I had never seen one of those. Thanks.

[Billthedrill]

Two hardest pins to install: Bolt Latch roll pin, and trigger guard roll pin.

Yup. What you might try - I do it this way now - is using a roll pin starter punch and then a pair of channel-lock pliers to squeeze it in instead of "tapping" with a hammer. (Tapping my butt, I had to pound my first one like fiend. Lubrication helps.)

[Yo-Yo]

Ah, now that I think about it, I was thinking of the MagPul grip with the optional snap-in trigger guard that covers the rear mounting ears and uses a set screw in the forward mounting point only. I think they discontinued that model of the grip.

There is also the "grip of shame" that has the trigger guard integral with the grip, that covers the roll pin ears if you break an ear off when trying to pound in the roll pin.

[Yo-Yo]

I've only built one AR, and I filed a nice taper on the trigger guard roll pin, lubed it up, and also used a drill to open up the Magpul MOE trigger guard hole just a skosh. (Believe it or not, it was almost impossible to pound the pin into the plastic trigger guard!)

I sweated bullets as I pounded that puppy home, with a wood block on the back side for ear support, and I'm NEVER changing trigger guards!

I also taped up the side of the lower with masking tape when I pounded in the bolt catch roll pin, and I got it in without marring the finish of the lower. However, like the trigger guard, it is not getting swapped out anytime soon!

Since I don't plan on building any more ARs, I didn't opt to buy a special roll pin starter punch, nor a special milled out bolt catch punch.

I had an easy time putting in the takedown pin detents and springs, and a cakewalk putting in the fire control group.

Oh, and the setscrew I mentioned earlier was for the rear take down pin detent, not the safety lever detent. The safety lever detent is retained by the grip.

[IndispensableDestiny]

Yup. What you might try - I do it this way now - is using a roll pin starter punch and then a pair of channel-lock pliers to squeeze it in instead of "tapping" with a hammer.

Another item missing from the list is a gunsmith's bench block. Place it under the trigger guard ears. I also put a forked shim of wood between the ears before installing the pin. I use this block from Brownells: