Posted on 03/13/2015 1:53:45 PM PDT by elder5
My Father in law passed away and left me his M-1. I'm ex-army (M-16 days) and other than the time I spent in the military I haven't had too many weapons in my hands.
The weapon is in great shape except for a small amount of rust in front of the rear site.
My question is how to remove the rust without damaging the weapon.
Thanks.
Actually, that is not true. It is an old wives' tale repeated often enough by ill-informed gun writers copying each others drivel that it has become believable by many otherwise knowledgeable gun nuts.
Please cite even one reliable source that details experiments containing data on the subject.
In videos I’ve seen from WW2 when I see GIs firing that weapon it really looks like thta rifle packs a wallop when they’re firing it. Isn’t a .30 caliber round a powerful bullet? And whats is it’s effective range?
gun oil and extra fine bronze wool
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Homax-Fine-Bronze-Wool-Pads-3-Pack-123100/100185012
At least one of the M-1 books I have mentions a max range of close to one mile with an issue load. Thus, a scope and a spotter would help a shooter reach out far beyond 500yds for a kill.
...when I [saw] GIs firing that weapon it really looks like that rifle packs a wallop...
There is certainly movement, but the gas operation that recycles the action absorbs a lot of it. The rest is accommodated with a proper, snug grip made even better with a sling. The result is that recoil is softer; more like putting your hand on some one's shoulder and abruptly pushing few inches.
The '03 of course, was not gas operated and at the end of the day most casual shooters would be looking for a shoulder pad.
I’d start with an oily rag and just keep wiping for awhile. If it is not much rust it will come off eventually.
Do a google search “NRA loads for the M1 Garand”.
Risk your own rifle, I choose not to risk mine.
And BTW, the NRA is not considered a particularly reliable source on matters related to ammunition. Do not trust any source that still refers to the ".45 Auto" cartridge as ".45 ACP". The latter designation was obsoleted by SAAMI and the reputable members of the arms and ammo industry prior to WWII. Where have the gun writers and editorial staff of the NRA been and why do they believe the drivel written by other gun writers?
I do not risk my M1, I cherish it. It has digested well over a thousand rounds loaded with 180 grain bullets, propelled by 59.0 grains of either H-4831 or IMI-4831. The op rod has not been damaged in any aspect. It performs flawlessly.
May, might, possibly, could, ...... etc. No data, no measurements, no actual designed experiments. The original M1 173 gr loads were replaced by the M2 150 gr loads supposedly because of excessive barrel heat induced, not damage to the op rods.
Haven't you noticed that the "authorities" that claim danger to the op rods when subjected to "heavy" loads, never cite the particular damage that occurred? Such fear is unfounded conjecture.
Op rods are going for $185.00 each. Why risk it?
Thank you all for the suggestions, comments, condolences, and humor. Once I have her checked out by a gunsmith I’ll go out and fire a few rounds, clean her up and mount her on the wall. Cheers.
Any question about damaging a M-1 requires your expertise.
I used to sleep with one in Europe but never cleaned any rust, sorry.
Blow’em up and git another one.
Been my past history.
RE#42 My Garand is one of the most comfortable shooting .30 rifles I own. The 03A3 kicks like a mule, The 1917 I havent’ shot yet...but, I imagine it kicks like the 03A3. The FAL because it has a Para stock bruises my cheek if I shoot it much. I’d like to move up into the SCAR-17 but it’s spendy! The adjustable cheekpiece, adaptable free float rail, optional Giessele match trigger, and other modular options make it my #1 want. Unfortunately, want, and money to buy, don’t always correspond.
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